Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?

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  • I've found if swapping tyres/ rims then new tape is always required.

    @theCycleclinc thanks for write ups, the Mavic tyres as clinchers weren't all that tbf when I had them
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I've found if swapping tyres/ rims then new tape is always required.

    OK thanks...kinda thought I would need to. Doesn't take long to whip off the old tape and put on a new layer, just a bit of a faff.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The bead can stretch with time making the tyre a looser fit so that why I avoid removing tyres unless I have to. If refitting a tyre a new layer of tape is sometimes needed.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I should add the 28mm yskions on a 20mm internal width rim ( velocity aileron) are 29mm wide and 26mm tall.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Aren't tubeless tire beads not supposed to stretch though? or was that for the Mavic UST ones only?
  • orlok
    orlok Posts: 89
    Arsey wrote:
    I've taken the tyre off and the hole actually looks smaller than I thought, and especially when it was plugged it looked like no air should be able to escape. Do you think it's just because of the location of the hole and it being next to the rim that has caused issues? The sealant was Stans which from reading this thread doesn't seem like a good idea for a road bike?

    inner_hole.png

    This one is showing the hole with the worm applicator through it.
    outer.jpg

    I think that because of the location of the hole being to close to the rim you cannot repair safely this tire. :wink:
    There will be always a moment of tailwind.Pinarello F8/10 - Ultegra 8000 Di2 - Carbonspeed C50 UST - Tubeless
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The beads do though just not as much as clinchers do. All materials stretch when loaded
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • arsey
    arsey Posts: 171
    Another puncture yesterday on the Hutchinson fusion 5's. This time it was a normal cut on the top of the tyre. Managed to fix it with a worm but it's really the kind of hole the sealant should be sealing/not puncturing at all (5mm thin cut). Not impressed with Hutchinson/stans combo.
    Canyon Ultimate CF Disc
    Vitus Energie Disc
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    edited May 2018
    Got back from a ride yesterday and I noticed this on the tire. Yksion UST pro with 2000k's in it. It has a tiny cut on that spot that for some reason it makes the tire bulge. No sealant came out since the cut is very small on the outside. I deflated it and the bulge flatens, has this happened to anyone?

    https://imgur.com/AwoiZ6m
    https://i.imgur.com/ed0zDFL
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Arsey wrote:
    Another puncture yesterday on the Hutchinson fusion 5's. This time it was a normal cut on the top of the tyre. Managed to fix it with a worm but it's really the kind of hole the sealant should be sealing/not puncturing at all (5mm thin cut). Not impressed with Hutchinson/stans combo.

    Orange Seal Endurance is your answer. I swapped from Stans Race a while back and have been super impressed.
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • orlok
    orlok Posts: 89
    zefs wrote:
    Got back from a ride yesterday and I noticed this on the tire. Yksion UST pro with 1000k's in it. It has a tiny cut on that spot that for some reason it makes the tire bulge. No sealant came out since the cut is very small on the outside. I deflated it and the bulge flatens, has this happened to anyone?

    https://imgur.com/AwoiZ6m
    https://i.imgur.com/ed0zDFL
    I believe that's a error in manufacturing.!
    There will be always a moment of tailwind.Pinarello F8/10 - Ultegra 8000 Di2 - Carbonspeed C50 UST - Tubeless
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Ryan_W wrote:
    Orange Seal Endurance is your answer. I swapped from Stans Race a while back and have been super impressed.

    I've just moved from Stans to Orange Seal Endurance, not sure if it was Malcolm or someone else that recommended Orange but thought it wise to move over, Hey, you have to buy a bottle of something, right? And this endurance stuff should last longer too.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    edited May 2018
    a used tyre with lots of miles not bulges is not a warranty or manufacturing error. The tiny cut is not the cause of the bulge but what ever you hit that broke the casing.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    arsey, try tyres that cut less, hutchinsons new storm 11 compound seems pretty soft. you are also expecting too much from sealant. That why you have to carry worms.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    a used tyre with lots of miles not bulges is not a warranty or manufacturing error. The tiny cut is not the cause of the bulge but what ever you hit that broke the casing.

    Is it ok to ride this tire and should I somehow attempt to fix that issue? I've put the Galactik's now because I wanted a fast summer tire and was planning to use the Yksion's later on the year.
  • imafatman
    imafatman Posts: 351
    Just ordered a replacement rear for my Schwalbe Pro-One 28c. I have done 2800km on them so far, the rear is starting to look a bit knackered, I will probably do another 300-400km on them before swapping it over in preparation for London Brighton and back in June.

    To be fair I'm quite heavy (120kg now but was riding on them from 135kg) so that probably has a lot to do with it. The front looks brand new, in fact still has the bits of rubber left over from manufacturing.

    Otherwise have been very happy with these tyres. Very fast rolling, with Orange seal they have been very reliable.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Put it this way would your car pass it's mot with a bulging tyre. Apply the same to your bike.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Imafatnan. You obviously are charmed then or somehow float on your bike. There are riders like that.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • arsey
    arsey Posts: 171
    arsey, try tyres that cut less, hutchinsons new storm 11 compound seems pretty soft. you are also expecting too much from sealant. That why you have to carry worms.

    Watching videos like this though seem to suggest that the sealant should be pretty bomb proof.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LOi4czjB1No

    I guess it's the Stans so will see how I get on with Effetto Mariposa
    Canyon Ultimate CF Disc
    Vitus Energie Disc
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Arsey wrote:
    I guess it's the Stans so will see how I get on with Effetto Mariposa

    Mine dried in less than a month for some reason (it has made a line along the inner of the tire). Bontrager TLR on the other hand was still liquid. I don't know if it's the sealant's fault or it's because I was using the Bontrager one previously which I cleaned (wanted to use Caffelatex on the other wheel to try it out as well).

    Found this on their website: https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/caffe ... er-effect/
    Could be user error, so will try it again on the next tire swap.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    the above link is why I inflate and seat tyres before adding sealant as then i dont have to use compressed air on the sealant.

    The reason why I like effetto is not because of the life span but because it seals well.

    Flints are no pin shaped arsy so the holes are not regular and sleanat has more trouble. Thats the problem with tests.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Yes that's what I did, seal the tire with air compressor then deflate, add the sealant and pump normally.
  • christimson
    christimson Posts: 37
    I’ve now ridden about 400 miles on the IRC Roadlites. They still look like new. Not a mark on them, incredible!
  • imafatman
    imafatman Posts: 351
    Imafatnan. You obviously are charmed then or somehow float on your bike. There are riders like that.

    I take it that they don't all last that long then.... to be fair most of the mileage was on pristine French countryside roads, not a shard of glass or horrible nail anywhere. Soon as I came back to London I started getting cuts and nicks in the tyres.

    The Padrones I had before it were pretty horrendous and needed replacing after not even 1000km so I guess I was somewhat pleased with getting 3k out of the pro-ones.
  • lakesluddite
    lakesluddite Posts: 1,337
    Okay, slightly silly tubeless question - but I have just fit some Fusion tubeless tyres to a new set of wheels (Prime RR50), and they actually seemed to go on a treat, seated with a track pump after a bit of manipulation, they held the air and after deflating and adding sealant they seem to be fine. Having said that I have only put about 50 miles on them.

    My question is regarding inflation and deflation with a pump. Will the momentary escape of air when fitting the pump connector to the valve result in sealant escaping as well? I realise that the sealant is designed to escape under pressure, so how do you go about adding more air, or indeed taking air out if you need to without the sealant coming out through the valve?

    Or is this not a problem?
  • arsey
    arsey Posts: 171
    Okay, slightly silly tubeless question - but I have just fit some Fusion tubeless tyres to a new set of wheels (Prime RR50), and they actually seemed to go on a treat, seated with a track pump after a bit of manipulation, they held the air and after deflating and adding sealant they seem to be fine. Having said that I have only put about 50 miles on them.

    My question is regarding inflation and deflation with a pump. Will the momentary escape of air when fitting the pump connector to the valve result in sealant escaping as well? I realise that the sealant is designed to escape under pressure, so how do you go about adding more air, or indeed taking air out if you need to without the sealant coming out through the valve?

    Or is this not a problem?
    I've always just made sure the valve is at the top so any sealant would have dropped down to the bottom of the wheel, this seems to work for me.
    Canyon Ultimate CF Disc
    Vitus Energie Disc
  • lakesluddite
    lakesluddite Posts: 1,337
    Arsey wrote:
    Okay, slightly silly tubeless question - but I have just fit some Fusion tubeless tyres to a new set of wheels (Prime RR50), and they actually seemed to go on a treat, seated with a track pump after a bit of manipulation, they held the air and after deflating and adding sealant they seem to be fine. Having said that I have only put about 50 miles on them.

    My question is regarding inflation and deflation with a pump. Will the momentary escape of air when fitting the pump connector to the valve result in sealant escaping as well? I realise that the sealant is designed to escape under pressure, so how do you go about adding more air, or indeed taking air out if you need to without the sealant coming out through the valve?

    Or is this not a problem?
    I've always just made sure the valve is at the top so any sealant would have dropped down to the bottom of the wheel, this seems to work for me.

    Ah, makes sense - thanks.
  • JackVet
    JackVet Posts: 8
    Thanks everybody for advise!
  • pgmabley
    pgmabley Posts: 107
    My Pro one rear tyre has pretty much had it after around 2500 miles. Ordered a IRC roadlite from cycleclinic, interested to see if this holds up well in the Chilterns where I ride where the flint has cut the rear pro one quite a bit.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    I had Pro Ones before, yes they cut up a fair bit and don't last too long before it becomes an issue. 2500 miles is pretty darn good. IRC roadlites hold up much better in my experience plus you can easily fit patches to the inside of the tyre should you have a decent hole.

    What sealant are you using? I've just moved to Orange Endurance from Stans.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava