Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?

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  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    Maxxis Padrone come in 28 mm... a bit expensive for the "rough stuff" though.

    I'm also dubious you can fit 28 mm tyres under road bike guards... you certainly can't under my SKS.

    If you ditch the guards, then Mavic Yksion Elite Allroad 30 mm are a good call... at 30 quid each they are also good value
    left the forum March 2023
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    it depends on the height of the tyre.

    Mavic yskion 28mm on velocity aileron 20mm int 26mm tall 29mm wide
    IRC Formula pro X guard 28mm on velocity aileron 20mm int 24mm tall 28mm wide

    Those 2mm make all the difference. The state tyre size is meaningless the bead to bead distance governs all and thread thickness/shape.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    Finally fitted my Hutch Performance TL-Ready tyres bought back on black friday yesterday, was somewhat anxious as a first timer.

    Well, what a piece of piss.

    Front tyre with DT r460 rim went on with absolutely no drama despite using cheap (£1 a roll) tubeless tape from Planet X and my regular floor pump.

    Tipped in my 30ml of sealant, popped the valve core back in, job done.

    I made a bit more of a meal of the the rear one (Kinlin XR-31rt rim) - I don't know if it was because it simply hadn't stuck so well (perhaps where I was stretching the tape) or because I'd punched too big a hole in the tape for the valve but it wouldn't seal - tried putting some sealant in and just made a mess ;-)

    Cleaned up and popped off the tyre again, replaced the cheapo PX tape with some Stans I had bought earlier, which undeniably stuck better but was close to 10x the price, and I was back in business - tyre popped on and sealed fine.

    Tyres still fully inflated this morning, on the TCR ready to go. Roll on springtime!

    Didn't need levers to get the tyres on, incidentally.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    £1 a roll is just daft. The tape has to stick well without bubbles.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Can someone explain the valve core removal method a bit clearer? (before adding sealant) How much air do you need to pump for the beads of the tire to mount correctly? Do you then just remove the pump head and let the air out instantly?
    I have a Mavic UST setup and track pump.
  • timothyw
    timothyw Posts: 2,482
    Yeah, that's what I did - I first pumped the tyres up to 70 odd psi to make sure they were properly mounted, when it was clear they were, popped out the valve core, poured in the sealant and reinflated. Worked fine.

    If you have a sealant injector then it's possible to squeeze in the sealant using the syringe with a bit of pressure still in the tyre (but not much) without removing the core. Then you'd want to immediately pump the tyre up to make sure the sealant doesn't gunk up the valve.

    You can also just pour sealant directly into the tyre before you finish mounting it, but that can get a bit messy!
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    About airshot and pumps with chambers that you use 160+ psi to help the tire get secured on the rim, is it the same as using a standard track pump and inflating over the tire's maximum psi reading?
  • sloppyschleckonds
    sloppyschleckonds Posts: 8,019
    zefs wrote:
    About airshot and pumps with chambers that you use 160+ psi to help the tire get secured on the rim, is it the same as using a standard track pump and inflating over the tire's maximum psi reading?

    No
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Thought as much. Well I tried the Mavic UST combo without sealant and I can see that the tire beads secured well, I used 100 psi which is the max for the Yksium 25c. The air was leaking about 5-10 psi an hour but now I've added sealant and seems to have secured. I suppose that makes checking for sealant even more important so that the desired air pressure/performance of the tire is maintained.

    Has anyone tried the Finish Line sealant that doesn't dry out as they claim?
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I have got a few more miles on the Mavic yskions UST tyres and while they seam to wearing fairly quickly and they have a few small nicks (and list air a couple of times) they have held up reasonably well. The only weakness is wet grip. They are o.k similar in fact to other tubed tyres like the gp4000s but since they cost £50 each you want more than what the gp4000s offers. This tyre has Hutchinson new storm 11 compound which probably means the new Hutchinson's feel similar.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    Thanks. The front one has lost about 50 psi over night but the back hasn't. How do I make sure to do the front right without loosing the sealant which is in place? I used 30ml on each and no soapy water.

    edit: From the UST wheels manual, seems like 10% over inflation is recommended for the seal process:
    Verify the external state of the tire (gashes etc...)
    Verify the perfect seating of the tire beads: over-inflate the tire by
    10% more than the maximum pressure indicated on the side of the
    tire and then deflate completely: the tire beads must remain locked
    on the rim).
    Check the cleanliness of the internal side of the tire and of the rim
    (eventually clean up with a rag).
    Check the state of the tire beads and the rim sidewalls.
    Re-install the tire, having moistened the bottom of the rim with soapy
    water.
    Inflate the UST Tubeless system to 3 bars (45psi) of pressure,
    immerse the bottom of the wheel in a bowl of water or spray a leak
    detector on the tire/rim joint to find the possible leak.
    Install a new tire that you know is perfectly sealed.
    If, after having carried out these checks, the sealing of the UST tube-
    less system is not acceptable, please consult your dealer.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Valve core could be loose or valve collar is not secure. Is this one if mavics wheels.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    I put some soapy water on the valves but don't seem to be leaking. Maybe it's the floor pump which is a cheap SKS, will try a compressor if it keeps loosing air.

    edit: Seems like it was the sealant, after going for a short ride the tires now hold the air fine.
  • christimson
    christimson Posts: 37
    Big tubeless fail last night. Hit a muddy puddle in the pouring rain which actually turned out to be a big pothole. The front tyre went down straight away. I wasn't far away from the pub we going to so put a bit of air in via a co2, it seated back on the rim and continued. After I arrived a mile later it had gone down again so had to resort to put a tube in to get home.

    After examining the tyre and wheel this morning it looks like a bit of sidewall damage to the tyre. Rim seems ok, so it seems to be repairable with some superglue. I'll add some sealant later which should sort it hopefully. Not sure why the sealant didn't fix it last night as it didn't seem to come out anywhere. Maybe I'll put more in next time.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    The tyre should not be unseating from the rim. What tyre and what rim.

    Sealant fails to fix sidewall damage for me.

    I am beginning to think we all need to start riding MTBs on the road.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • sloppyschleckonds
    sloppyschleckonds Posts: 8,019
    thecycleclinic wrote:

    I am beginning to think we all need to start riding MTBs on the road.

    Or watch where we are cycling
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • christimson
    christimson Posts: 37
    It is a Schwalbe Pro One on an Alex rim. On reflection I think I had the pressure too low. But just unlucky I guess. Superglue seems to have fixed so I’ll see how it goes.
  • sloppyschleckonds
    sloppyschleckonds Posts: 8,019
    Sidewall damage will usually end most rides, tubeless or not without some bodged repair
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    I hit holes all the time they are difficult to avoid especially at night.

    Regardless of how low the pressure might have been the tyre should not unseat from the rim. Some rims could be more tubeless compatible. The tyre being very firmly seated is useful as then you don't have to carry C02. If you know it can unseat carry competed gas.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • christimson
    christimson Posts: 37
    Would you recommend more tubeless tape layers if the tyre is fairly ‘loose’ on the rim?
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    Yes, If it's 'too' easy to get on then it will probably be difficult to inflate - the gap being too large and air finding an easy way out, even with a compressor. If it does go one, then it should be OK.

    It would be different with low pressure tyres like for cyclocross, where it would then be easy to 'burp' then in a corner.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    A customer dropped in today with a clanger. He caught a hole and flint wrong and got a through and through puncture. Still not sure how. The whole was big enough for his finger.

    I have said before tubeless fails are user error and a tube is never needed. This rider has gone and proved it. Using 3.5mm and 1.5mm worms he fixed it and carried on his ride. So leave your tubes at home. Even clangers can be fixed.


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    upload photo album
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • lincolndave
    lincolndave Posts: 9,441
    Is that tyre an x guard?
  • LiamW
    LiamW Posts: 358
    1st puncture last night on the Hutchinson Fusion tyres. The orange sealant was gushing out so it was a big enough hole but not big enough for a worm. Picked out the glass & put few another pounds of air into the tyre and rode 15 miles home. Tyre is still sitting at 40psi this morning so it worked quite well in the end.
  • jollygiant
    jollygiant Posts: 117
    So I've just fitted my first set of tubeless Schwable Pro Ones to my Reynolds Strike wheels, one was all fitted and sealed in 20mins and the other took nearly 2 hours :? :D
    I'm running them at 85 psi front a 95 rear from 100 front and 110 rear (tubes), should I go lower pressure wise? They seem pretty smooth but still fast compared to tubes.
    I put 60ml of Stans Notubes sealant in, how often should I top them up and with how much?
  • LiamW
    LiamW Posts: 358
    thecycleclinic wrote:
    A customer dropped in today with a clanger. He caught a hole and flint wrong and got a through and through puncture. Still not sure how. The whole was big enough for his finger.

    I have said before tubeless fails are user error and a tube is never needed. This rider has gone and proved it. Using 3.5mm and 1.5mm worms he fixed it and carried on his ride. So leave your tubes at home. Even clangers can be fixed.


    20180404_110752.jpg
    20180404_122409.jpg
    20180404_113957.jpg
    20180404_122354.jpg
    20180404_111537.jpg
    20180404_122357.jpg
    IMG_20180404_135141_635.jpg
    upload photo album


    I'd have to trim those, they would annoy the life out of me looking at them like that.
  • christimson
    christimson Posts: 37
    jollygiant wrote:
    So I've just fitted my first set of tubeless Schwable Pro Ones to my Reynolds Strike wheels, one was all fitted and sealed in 20mins and the other took nearly 2 hours :? :D
    I'm running them at 85 psi front a 95 rear from 100 front and 110 rear (tubes), should I go lower pressure wise? They seem pretty smooth but still fast compared to tubes.
    I put 60ml of Stans Notubes sealant in, how often should I top them up and with how much?

    These are what I’m running. I’m on my second set although the older pair I’m still using on the other bike. Pressure wise I think that’s about right. Sealant wise, don’t stress and maybe top it up in 3 months or so unless you have any problems.
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    jollygiant wrote:
    So I've just fitted my first set of tubeless Schwable Pro Ones to my Reynolds Strike wheels, one was all fitted and sealed in 20mins and the other took nearly 2 hours :? :D
    I'm running them at 85 psi front a 95 rear from 100 front and 110 rear (tubes), should I go lower pressure wise? They seem pretty smooth but still fast compared to tubes.
    I put 60ml of Stans Notubes sealant in, how often should I top them up and with how much?

    I have Reynolds Assault wheels for summer use which are now fitted with Hutchinson Galactik tyres but I used to have Pro Ones.
    Similar pressures to you - 85psi front, 90psi rear and I'm 75kg.
    I put about 60ml into the winter tyres but about half that into the summer setup and just top them up every couple of months.
  • jollygiant
    jollygiant Posts: 117
    Singleton wrote:
    jollygiant wrote:
    So I've just fitted my first set of tubeless Schwable Pro Ones to my Reynolds Strike wheels, one was all fitted and sealed in 20mins and the other took nearly 2 hours :? :D
    I'm running them at 85 psi front a 95 rear from 100 front and 110 rear (tubes), should I go lower pressure wise? They seem pretty smooth but still fast compared to tubes.
    I put 60ml of Stans Notubes sealant in, how often should I top them up and with how much?

    I have Reynolds Assault wheels for summer use which are now fitted with Hutchinson Galactik tyres but I used to have Pro Ones.
    Similar pressures to you - 85psi front, 90psi rear and I'm 75kg.
    I put about 60ml into the winter tyres but about half that into the summer setup and just top them up every couple of months.
    I should of added I'm 100kg!! lol

    When you say "top them up" how much and how often? The full 60ml once every 2 months or just when you get a puncture?
  • singleton
    singleton Posts: 2,523
    jollygiant wrote:
    I should have added I'm 100kg!! lol

    When you say "top them up" how much and how often? The full 60ml once every 2 months or just when you get a puncture?

    I usually pop the bead off and see what's left in there, then top it back up to approximately what I want.
    Once a year I usually take the tyres off, clean them inside and reseat them with the correct levels of sealant.

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