Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?

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Comments

  • mikeyj28
    mikeyj28 Posts: 754
    Thank you for your replies.

    One last one - I'm used to Stans as a sealant, but often hear orange seal is better?? Is this the case or just people voicing about their positive experiences?
    Stans has been good to me while MTB riding and XC racing for many years.

    Thanks
    Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Anecdotally and in my personal experience Orange Seal works better at the higher pressures of road tyres and in cold, wet conditions. I’ve been let down by Stans and others with innocuous looking punctures that Orange Seal can fix and hold at 80+ psi so I’m sticking with it.
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Orange Seal is better than Stans Race for road tyres at higher PSI for sure.

    Since changing over, I’ve not had to pump my tyres up over the past fortnight. Hasn’t dropped any pressure at all.
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • mikeyj28
    mikeyj28 Posts: 754
    Thank you both for your input.
    Constantly trying to upgrade my parts.It is a long road ahead as things are so expensive for little gain. n+1 is always the principle in my mind.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    shortfall yes I am using the yskions. to early to tell less than 1000km on them. not incident free either but it is winter and flint is quite sharp. On puncture went flat I have fixed with super glue. The second happened on tuesday at icebike. road the 80 miles home on not much air. I only realised around royston that the bike felt slow but I got home without having to pump it up. It is not staying up though so I will have to inspect it properly tomorrow and find the ruddy hole and plug it. Otherwise I like them. they grip well and seem to roll like the IRC's.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • shortfall
    shortfall Posts: 3,288
    shortfall yes I am using the yskions. to early to tell less than 1000km on them. not incident free either but it is winter and flint is quite sharp. On puncture went flat I have fixed with super glue. The second happened on tuesday at icebike. road the 80 miles home on not much air. I only realised around royston that the bike felt slow but I got home without having to pump it up. It is not staying up though so I will have to inspect it properly tomorrow and find the ruddy hole and plug it. Otherwise I like them. they grip well and seem to roll like the IRC's.

    Would they fit onto non Mavic rims such as my Kinlin ok?
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    edited February 2018
    They fit fine to Kinlin. Update on the yskions. I have 700km on them of commuting including a 260km commute to ice bike this week. Here are pics if the rear tyre and some of the cuts. I'm 84kg currently, bike is 10kg with panniers though more like 15 or 16kg excluding any extra load. The tyres are already wearing. The grooves in the tyres are showing wearing at the apex. My guess is they'll be worn by 2000 to 3000km. This is disappointing for me as that mean frequent tyre replacements. They are grippy enough but they are cutting. Nothing major but quite a few compared to what I am used to. I have found the puncture that was not sealing. There is another that had to be fixed with locitie powerflex superglue. More sealant seems to have helped. This would be a decent tyre if it wore less quickly. As it is I will get a couple of months and then then the bin. I have a 25mm pair which I will try out in races this year to see how they do. I think they'll be good at that but on terms of £ per mile they are not good enough but time will tell.

    IMG_20180223_102109.jpg
    IMG_20180223_102029.jpg
    IMG_20180223_101936.jpg
    IMG_20180223_101921.jpg
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Just picked up a new bike which has Schwalbe G-One 30c fitted. They come with tubes but I'm going to run them tubeless as the wheels are tubeless ready. I have the tubeless valves already and some stans sealant, but I need to pick up from kit for roadside repairs if the sealant does seal a puncture. From reading through the thread I think I need:

    Worms (1.5 * 3.5mm)
    Flexible superglue
    Small tube of sealant
    Decent tyre levers (not sure what make)

    Have I missed anything and does anywhere do a kit of everything I need or where is best to pick the items up?
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    that the kit but you need a valave core remover and the best levers are IRC. Park Tool think there metal levers are better. some like pedro's but the IRC's are ones I have settled on and not because I buy there tyres it is just the best lever for tight tyres.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    dazz_ni45 wrote:
    Just picked up a new bike which has Schwalbe G-One 30c fitted. They come with tubes but I'm going to run them tubeless as the wheels are tubeless ready. I have the tubeless valves already and some stans sealant, but I need to pick up from kit for roadside repairs if the sealant does seal a puncture. From reading through the thread I think I need:

    Worms (1.5 * 3.5mm)
    Flexible superglue
    Small tube of sealant
    Decent tyre levers (not sure what make)

    Have I missed anything and does anywhere do a kit of everything I need or where is best to pick the items up?


    They do two models. Make sure you have the tubeless version!
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • They fit fine to Kinlin. Update on the yskions. I have 700km on them of commuting including a 260km commute to ice bike this week. Here are pics if the rear tyre and some of the cuts. I'm 84kg currently, bike is 10kg with panniers though more like 15 or 16kg excluding any extra load. The tyres are already wearing. The grooves in the tyres are showing wearing at the apex. My guess is they'll be worn by 2000 to 3000km. This is disappointing for me as that mean frequent tyre replacements. They are grippy enough but they are cutting. Nothing major but quite a few compared to what I am used to. I have found the puncture that was not sealing. There is another that had to be fixed with picture powerflex. More sealant seems to have helped. This would be a decent tyre if it wore less quickly. As it is I will get a couple of months and then then the bin. I have a 25mm pair which I will try out in races this year to see how they do. I think they'll be good at that but on terms of £ per mile they are not good enough but time will tell.

    IMG_20180223_102109.jpg
    IMG_20180223_102029.jpg
    IMG_20180223_101936.jpg
    IMG_20180223_101921.jpg

    Have you tried the MAxxis Padrones yet Malcolm?
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • I've been running Schwalbe Pro 1s for nearly a year now and I'm a convert. First of all it was an experiment over summer but they've been really good so running them winter as well. I've had 2 punctures but both sealed ok and got me home fine without having to plug or reinflate.

    I'm going on a 4 day trip to Belgium next month and aim to do about 90 miles per day. I'm not planning on taking tubes but a spare tyre in the panniers, worms, valve core remover, co2 canisters, manual pump and a small bottle of sealant. I've seen posts about flexible super glue. Can someone post a link to this as I've not seen this before?

    I'm starting the trip on new tyres and I'm fairly confident based on what I've experienced so far with them. There are plenty of 'ney sayers' in the club but I believe this is the way forward. Done about 3,000 on the Pro 1s.
  • fat_tail
    fat_tail Posts: 786
    Done about 3,000 on the Pro 1s.

    miles or kms ?
    Ridley Fenix SL
  • Miles
  • lincolndave
    lincolndave Posts: 9,441
    edited February 2018
    I've seen posts about flexible super glue. Can someone post a link to this as I've not seen this before

    https://www.uktoolcentre.co.uk/products ... IWpfD_BwE#

    The lads on here recommend this to me, I have not used any as yet
  • that the kit but you need a valave core remover and the best levers are IRC. Park Tool think there metal levers are better. some like pedro's but the IRC's are ones I have settled on and not because I buy there tyres it is just the best lever for tight tyres.

    thanks Malcolm, I forgot to mention that I had a valve core remover. I see that you stock most of what I need apart from the superglue so I will get an order in soon.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    loctite powerflex superglue is what is needed.

    Mileage claim are meanginless with knowing how heavy you are. although your right tubeless is the way forward.

    I have a set of pardones waiting to go on the comuter ones the mavic has died. At some point I will have tried most of them and I'll know how long they last before they are worn or I am stranded which ever comes first.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Thanks for the tip on the glue. I’m 71 kg and I’m running the tyres about 75 psi.

    For the winter bike I’ve got a set of Prime Pro wheels. The Schwalbes slip on easy peasy and stay up fine. They seem very light and good value.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    they are light, easy to set up, provide low Crr but not the best value. you have to look at £ per mile. you may get 3000+ miles for the pro one. I dont get that kind of mileage from tyres with soft compounds. My last rear IRC on my commuter me 84kg + kit+ bike (10kg) + load (5-8kg) did nearly 5800km. so you would get far more. At RRP the IRC did 116km per £. If the tyre had seen more summer use it would have done more. Its winter flint that killed it off before it was fully worn.

    I find out what the other tyres do by running them all to destruction. In about a year or two I post the results all for rear tyres as front can last far too long to test.

    £ per mile determines value not the price you pay.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • That's interesting. I may give the IRC tyre a go next.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    I was washing my normal commuting bike last night when I noticed it had no brake pads left at the front. New sets (and extra spares) ordered, but won't be here until later in the week. Rode my Cannondale Slate in, which is shod with very thin Panaracer manufactured slicks (it either is, or is very similar to the Panaracer Pari-Moto). Just round the corner from my house I felt a bump and heard a pop sound. Everything seemed fine. When I got to work I had droplets of white liquid splattered up the back of the bike.

    40632112371_68670f5139_c.jpg

    Tyre seems to have held its pressure nicely. This is my first tubeless puncture (that I'm aware of). Not entirely sure what's caused it, think it's most likely either metal or glass. Do I just leave it as it is, or should I be looking to remove the sharp at some point? My inclination is just to leave it alone, but I'm concerned over time it might work its way further through the tyre and leave me with a bigger hole that the sealant might not block at some inconvenient point.
  • ryan_w-2
    ryan_w-2 Posts: 1,162
    Wait till you get home if it’s holding ok.

    Then remove the foreign object at home and make sure it seals.
    Specialized Allez Sprint Disc --- Specialized S-Works SL7

    IG: RhinosWorkshop
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Rode it home yesterday and back to work this morning. Still seems fine, although now I'm getting paranoid about whether there's more sealant splashed on the bike (like it is leaking a little bit more as I'm riding it), but it could just be from the original puncture. Hard to be sure. Will have a go at digging it out tonight at home! I have some worms I can push in to reseal it if needs be.
  • LiamW
    LiamW Posts: 358
    edited March 2018
    Fitted a set of IRC Roadlite tyres last night that i got from the CycleClinic. Set them up without sealant first of all and left them . Good fit on Ultegra 6800 rims and hold the air well. Will add the sealant tonight, but so far they're holding the air (90 psi) well.

    Also meant to say that they pumped up easily enough with a standard track pump.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    After faffing about with the tyre in the dark last night (eventually resorted to letting out some air and pinching it) I finally realised that the sharp must have dropped out during one of my commutes yesterday. I've ordered some flexible superglue which should come tomorrow to add to my repair kit. Will attempt to fill the hole in with that. Just looks a bit vulnerable to getting more crap in it at the moment.
  • clickrumble
    clickrumble Posts: 304
    Graeme_S wrote:
    After faffing about with the tyre in the dark last night (eventually resorted to letting out some air and pinching it) I finally realised that the sharp must have dropped out during one of my commutes yesterday. I've ordered some flexible superglue which should come tomorrow to add to my repair kit. Will attempt to fill the hole in with that. Just looks a bit vulnerable to getting more crap in it at the moment.
    I wouldn't worry about it myself, if the tyre's sealed ok then leave it alone, seems to work in my experience.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    yes leave alone. unless there is something to fix dont fix it.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • graeme_s-2
    graeme_s-2 Posts: 3,382
    Thanks for the advice folks - I'll leave it be. Did prompt me to order flexible super glue though, so at least I can tuck that away in my repair pack now.
  • An excellent topic.
  • joe_totale-2
    joe_totale-2 Posts: 1,333
    Hi there. I'm looking for 28mm tubeless tires that don't mind doing a bit of the rough stuff such as gravel but will mainly be used on the road so must roll well. It's for a Triban 540 that has clearance for up to 32mm tires but you can only fit mudguards that give clearance for up to 28mm tires.

    The only tire I've found so far that ticks these boxes is the Hutchinson Sector 28 but it doesn't seem to be available in many places, are there any other tires I've missed?

    Alternately my mudguards state they fit up to 28mm tires but has anyone ever been able to squeeze 30mm tires in there? I'd love a pair of 30mm Schwalbe G-One Speeds as they tick all the boxes but don't want to buy them only to find that they don't quite fit.