Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?

lincolndave

I must admit since getting a good bit of confidence in tubless tyres , I have stopped caring a spare tube with me, after a recommendation on here for the rubber super glue , worm kits, carrying a small tub of sealant , but I do carry a tyre boot and tyre levers just Incase I get a good split in the tyres,
But for winter I have been using irc x guard tubeless tyres , they are absolutely brilliant, up to now they are wearing very well , and as far has I can see there are no nicks in either tyre , which is pretty good for the roads around Lincolnshire

dodgy

I didn't even know about thicker 'worms' until just now, I also didn't know there was 'rubber superglue', I also didn't know that Stans wasn't considered a decent sealant.

See the problem here? I feel like this is on the periphery of knowledge right now as it's so new. We need a sticky with all the best advice posted by someone considered knowledgeable, instead of trawling through this 74 page thread.

Like I said, I'll have another go at some time, once there's accepted wisdom over the best tools, practices and kit.

cycleclinic

I'm not a moderator. Also I do state all this on my website which is also the place I can put in one place without getting it lost.

Tubeless is not need it been around for road use for over 10 years.

Also one reason why worms pop out is that they are not inserted properly.
You don't just shove it in perpendicular to the tyre. Shove it in at a angle you can push it deeper that way. Then hold it in place with your finger while removing the applicator.

dodgy

It's 'new' enough to warrant a regularly updated 74 page thread, that's what I mean.

Anyway, thanks for the advice folks, learned a few things today.

ricey155

Need to upgrade my repair kit after reading this thread, replace stans and get some worms and rubber super glue :-)

Scwable pro ones perfect on wiggle rims

ryan_w-2

Stans Race Sealant over every other brand, followed by Orange Seal.

fat_tail

after riding the Maxxis Padrones for a little while at 100 psi I have the following observations

1. they are incredibly comfortable - much more so than the hutch sectors. must be the 170 tpi or whatever.
2. they seem to be holding air better - with the hutch sectors I would inflate to 110 on Sunday and by friday they are probably at 80. these seem to be at 100.
3. they are grippy

cycleclinic

you cant inject stans race sealant in throught the valve. removing the tyre to add sealant is an anthema to me. it takes more time and creates mess. why make life hard for yourself.

fat tail my post was directed at Bobones and his problem not yours. You may benefit from a bit more tape as well that can sometimes left if the bead does not lock in properly but not always. Often the selant acts like a light glue in these cases and in time it stays put but not really locked in place.

fat_tail

thecycleclinic wrote:

you cant inject stans race sealant in throught the valve. removing the tyre to add sealant is an anthema to me. it takes more time and creates mess. why make life hard for yourself.

fat tail my post was directed at Bobones and his problem not yours. You may benefit from a bit more tape as well that can sometimes left if the bead does not lock in properly but not always. Often the selant acts like a light glue in these cases and in time it stays put but not really locked in place.

can you not inject stans race sealant through the valve with the core removed ?

I am considering trying stans race but at the price they charge I want to make sure its going to be worth it ...

cycleclinic

I tried an if done very slowly you might get it in with the valve clogging or then again it might clog. Essentially I failed to get it in reliably.

As there are other good sealants I use those instead. Tubeless is meant to remove faff not add it.

ryan_w-2

That's the only downside wit Stans Race, it isn't one to be used through the value core.

My litre is nearly all gone, I think I'll swap back to Orange Seal on the commuter bike.

fat_tail

ordered some more orange endurance sealant...

also, finally figured out that with the Genuine Innovations worms you have to thread the worm through the eye of the applicator. this took me 2 years to figure out.

naavt

Converted to tubeless for the first time and I must say that I'm totally surprised on how easy was to get all things working.

I've been reading a lot about all sort of issues regarding tubeless, like fitting them on the rims, not sealing properly and more.

I was a bit put off by all those testimonials but toke the plunge and bought a pair of 25mm Schwalbe Pro One's. Fitting them was as easy as Continentals GP4000's. I fitted them with my bare hands, no levers needed.

Because of that I though that something would go wrong and they would not inflate. Guess what. Some elbow grease on my floor pump, they popped 3 or 4 times and voila! No compressor needed and... No sealant!!!!

I didn't rode them yet just to see if they hold pressure, and they are resting for a couple of days with no air dropped. I can only suspect that they will behave even better after filled with sealant.

For now, happily surprised.

ryan_w-2

Ignore.

graeme_s-2

I’ve set up my (not tubeless compatible) Planet X wheels on my PX London Road as homemade tubeless with 38C Vitorria Hyper Voyagers.

I tried to do the front wheel before xmas. Took out the rim tape, cleaned up the rim, added Stans tubeless tape and a Stans valve. Couldn’t get the tyre to inflate with a track pump, with or without sealant. Cleaned it all up and stuck an inner tube back in.

For Christmas I got a Lifeline track pump with a tubeless inflator built in. Gave it a go with that, and it went up first time. Seated without sealant, but was leaking air quickly. Added sealant, and it held its pressure overnight. Tried to do the same with the rear wheel, but couldn’t get it to seat even with the inflator. Added a second layer of tape (and in doing so, realised the first layer was a bit of a mess), seemed better but was still going down very quickly, realised I hadn’t got a seal on the valve. Did the nut up a bit tighter and then it seated, added sealant and it held its pressure overnight.

I’ve only got them up around 40-50psi, and was a bit nervous about them blowing off the rims and killing me to start with, but I’ve done a couple of hundred miles with no bother now. They actually hold their pressure better than they did with tubes (although I think the tube I had on the front wheel was leaking slightly at the valve).

So don’t try this or you might die, but I’ve been pretty pleased with them.

cycleclinic

IRC update. today after getting to 5800km my IRC formula pro X guard 28mm rear tyre on my commutor bike got 4 punctures. I have binned it now as it was rounded off, bulging badly at the site of the big cut before christmas and leaking everywhere. Not a bad inning. The front RBCC 28mm now has 12800km on it and still no wear although it did puncture but seal recently.

Fitted a mavic yskion 28mm in the IRC's X guards place. On a velocity aileron it is 29mm wide and 26mm tall. Lets see how long this tyre lasts. The tyre is 290g as well as claimed. It felt alright coming home but that 7.7 miles so a long way to go.

lincolndave

It would be good if we all compared the mileage we achieve with tubeless tyres
Both winter and summer tyres,
At the moment I am irc x guards for winter riding and very impressed with the wear , at about 1200 miles they still both look like new ( especially when washed)

Hanners

I've been using the specialised rubaix tubeless 25s since November on the open pro ust, so far done 3100 miles both looking in very good condition pretty impressed so far

cycleclinic

That what I am doing. but it going to take time. After the mavic tyre I have a 28mm pardone and I will try a few others.

cycleclinic

The top end specialised tubeless tyre I forget it name is made by IRC.

bobones

SloppySchleckonds wrote:

If you think you've got a sub-standard quality tyre you should be returning it to the retailer, not palming off on eBay.

thecycleclinic wrote:

It is more likely to be the rim. Than the tyre. Try more tubeless tape that might help. Sadly some rim brands are not that consistent.

Is your issue it inflates but fails to lock in place properly so it is leaking from a part of the rim where the tyre fails to seat. More tape often solves that problem.

Finally got around to trying the Maxxis Padrones on a different set of rims, and it was probably the easiest tubeless fitting I've ever done. The rims came with tape and valves so all I did was put the tyres on, add some sealant, spray some soapy water around the bead (not sure if even needed), and both went up first time with a track pump and held 80 psi overnight.

I think the initial problem was that the rims I was trying were a bit too wide for the 23mm Padrones. I had no problems getting Schwalbe Pro One 23s, which are more like 25s, on the same rims, but needed to add an extra layer of tape to get 25mm Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance Tubeless Ready to stay up. Definitely a lot of variables with different tyre and rim combos to be able to predict how easy it's going to be.

I haven't had a chance to try out the Padrones as they're for the summer bike, but I've been very happy with the Hutch Fusion 5 All Season that I've had on the back of my winter bike for the last few months. I've done 1300 miles on it with little since of wear, but got a big sidewall gash on a stone last ride out that needed a tube to be fitted to carry on. There is no way I would have been able to do a tubeless repair at the side of the road on a cold, dark morning with a 1 cm gash so I am going to keep carrying a spare tube no matter what.

cycleclinic

You would be surprised but a big 3.5mm thick worm inserted in that side wall cut with some superglue could have quite easily fixed that hole well enough to hold some air to get home.

Tubes really are not needed. I have tried this out.

cycleclinic

Mavic yskion update. Done 250km on them and they feel fine. They seem to have fairly low crr and wet grip seems decent enough money I only have the tyre mounted on the rear but there seems little difference in cornering ability but I am not connecting that hard on a commuter bike either.

Tonight though the tyre punctured and it would not seal. The puncture was at the end of thread. Unlike the IRC tyres I normally use the tread on this tyre ends at the shoulder. The cut happened here. It went down slowly enough to get home without stopping although it was pretty flat. Superglue seems to have fixed it. I'll find out tomorrow. I may have to shove a worm if if it leak again. The glue is just below the centre of the pic.

bobones

thecycleclinic wrote:

You would be surprised but a big 3.5mm thick worm inserted in that side wall cut with some superglue could have quite easily fixed that hole well enough to hold some air to get home.

Tubes really are not needed. I have tried this out.

Sorry, I disagree. Superglue and worms would not have patched this sufficiently to hold air, at least I couldn't have done it in the cold, dark and wet. It would have needed a large patch in the inside of the tyre and it would have been difficult to make that work in the wet. I have also had cases where worms and sealant didn't work and tyre could not be reseated or reinflated and inserting a tube was the only way to get back on the road. Carrying a tube is certainly useful insurance IME.

shortfall

Mavic Yksion Pro Road Tyre (UST)

Anyone tried these yet? Any info?

mikeyj28

One for Malcolm more than anyone else but should any of you had experience of these then I'd love your input on the irc roadlite timeless tyres (25mm). They will be for some Prime 38mm disc carbon wheels.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collection ... less-tyres

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

ugo.santalucia

mikeyj28 wrote:

One for Malcolm more than anyone else but should any of you had experience of these then I'd love your input on the irc roadlite timeless tyres (25mm). They will be for some Prime 38mm disc carbon wheels.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collection ... less-tyres

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Mine were tubeless, not timeless...

https://whosatthewheel.com/2015/05/19/f ... ess-tyres/

lincolndave

mikeyj28 wrote:

One for Malcolm more than anyone else but should any of you had experience of these then I'd love your input on the irc roadlite timeless tyres (25mm). They will be for some Prime 38mm disc carbon wheels.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collection ... less-tyres

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Have a read of this, I had a pair on one of my summer bikes,and could not fault them, I would personally recommend the Roadlites

https://whosatthewheel.com/2015/05/19/f ... ess-tyres/

mikeyj28

ugo.santalucia wrote:

mikeyj28 wrote:

One for Malcolm more than anyone else but should any of you had experience of these then I'd love your input on the irc roadlite timeless tyres (25mm). They will be for some Prime 38mm disc carbon wheels.

https://thecycleclinic.co.uk/collection ... less-tyres

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Mine were tubeless, not timeless...

https://whosatthewheel.com/2015/05/19/f ... ess-tyres/

Haha , damn autospell!

Thanks Ugo

drlodge

I've got the IRC roadlites on both the Rourke and Massive Attack in 23c. Great tyres. Had Schwalbe Ones before that, IRCs are much much more sturdy while giving a great ride.