Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?
Comments
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the roadlites are big. Just fitted a set to my look and the front tyre barely has clearance in the fork.
CO2 does not seem to react well to stans I am finding. Switching back to zefal selant myself. The latex in stans seams to turn into white water too easily. Had a couple of punctures that did not seal well recently (well they did a very low pressure) when I get home and look in the tyre I find water. not all sealants behave like this with CO2.
I personally have had much better luck with plugs and superglue. is it the flexible superglue that you are using as the normal kind wont work for long. StreetAM you are doing nothing wrong.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Yes, that's what I found when I took the tyre off, just clear liquid. I don't think I'll use CO2 to seat the tyre, just man up and pump away, seems to work most of the time. I had used the flexible superglue on both sides when fitting the plug. Seems to me that it may be easier just to pop the tube on next time I get a hole that doesn't seal (I had to do that the last couple of times when the plug came out).0
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try different sealant many of the sealing issues I have had is because there was less sealant in the tyre than I thought or stans had turned into water.
i.e not the tyres fault m own laziness as I only check after I get a problem rather than check the tyre say monthly to ensure everything is o.k. Putting a tube in I'd have to carry one first.
While many sealants as good as each other it is also possible some work better than others. I need to try that effeto maripauso or whatever its called next. I can buy it in 10ltr bottles, that should keep me going for a while.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
SkeetAM wrote:I might be doing it all wrong but I use the 'worms' as temporary, only to get me home. Once home, I take half the bead off, dry with kitchen roll and apply a permanent tubeless patch. I use a small dab of flexible superglue on the inside and outside and then fix the main patch with the standard rubber glue. It works for me.
Do you have an example of "a permanent tubeless patch" and where I can buy them?0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:the roadlites are big. Just fitted a set to my look and the front tyre barely has clearance in the fork.
CO2 does not seem to react well to stans I am finding. Switching back to zefal selant myself. The latex in stans seams to turn into white water too easily. Had a couple of punctures that did not seal well recently (well they did a very low pressure) when I get home and look in the tyre I find water. not all sealants behave like this with CO2.
I personally have had much better luck with plugs and superglue. is it the flexible superglue that you are using as the normal kind wont work for long. StreetAM you are doing nothing wrong.0 -
Iso2000 wrote:SkeetAM wrote:I might be doing it all wrong but I use the 'worms' as temporary, only to get me home. Once home, I take half the bead off, dry with kitchen roll and apply a permanent tubeless patch. I use a small dab of flexible superglue on the inside and outside and then fix the main patch with the standard rubber glue. It works for me.
Do you have an example of "a permanent tubeless patch" and where I can buy them?
I used Parktool VP-1 ... has been holding for a few months now.Ridley Fenix SL0 -
Iso2000 wrote:SkeetAM wrote:I might be doing it all wrong but I use the 'worms' as temporary, only to get me home. Once home, I take half the bead off, dry with kitchen roll and apply a permanent tubeless patch. I use a small dab of flexible superglue on the inside and outside and then fix the main patch with the standard rubber glue. It works for me.
Do you have an example of "a permanent tubeless patch" and where I can buy them?
Yes, I use these https://www.evanscycles.com/weldtite-tubeless-cycle-inside-repair-kit-EV1706220 -
Velox do a tubeless patch set. they are big though and will need cutting down for road tyres. I have used inner tube patches before and they worked well until the tyre wore out.
Stans for me has sealed at high pressure but only when it not watery. So it does work it is just the commutor bike has aileron rims which require a shot of CO2 to inflate. An air shot pump does not seem to do the job so for that bike other sealant has to be used. Given that is my daily bike that means zefal or whatever is cheapest at the time for me. The tyre hardly ever puncture so I am not worried about which sealant I use.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
Here's a review of various sealants - it's Aussie biased, but lots of useful info.
The Caffelatex foams up so does a good job with sidewall holes - didn't realise they had another small bottle for catylisiing with big holes etc
http://www.mtbiking.com.au/gear/tubeless-tyre-sealants0 -
Had a puncture on the way home last night. Orange endurance sealant spews everywhere but no luck sealing the hole. So I pulled over to fix it and because it was dark and wet finding the hole was quite hard. When I did find it, I managed to plug it with a worm, inflated with CO2 and rode home. I decided to do the right thing and repair it from the inside using a patch kit. All went well and I replaced the lost sealant with the little Orange sealant I had left. Pumped up the tyre and went to bed. This morning, I looked at the sealant bottle and found that there was still a lot a left which was surprising - so I then figured out that the valve was blocked. Then spent another another 30 mins unblocking the valve so I could add more sealant.
First lesson learnt, Orange clogs up your valves. Second lesson, when you take the tyre off clean out the valve. Third lesson learnt, when you have plugged the tyre best to keep the plug in until you have a lot of time to do a good repair.Ridley Fenix SL0 -
Can you recommend a tyre worm and repair patch please? I went tubeless but I don't have any specific repair tools yet.0
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drwae wrote:Can you recommend a tyre worm and repair patch please? I went tubeless but I don't have any specific repair tools yet.
Genuine Innovations Tubeless repair kit for worms
Park Tool VP-1 vulcanising patches ( I think I was just lucky with this. Malcolm fromt thecycleclini will have better ones I am sure).Ridley Fenix SL0 -
fat_tail wrote:drwae wrote:Can you recommend a tyre worm and repair patch please? I went tubeless but I don't have any specific repair tools yet.
Genuine Innovations Tubeless repair kit for worms
Park Tool VP-1 vulcanising patches ( I think I was just lucky with this. Malcolm fromt thecycleclini will have better ones I am sure).0 -
drwae wrote:fat_tail wrote:drwae wrote:Can you recommend a tyre worm and repair patch please? I went tubeless but I don't have any specific repair tools yet.
Genuine Innovations Tubeless repair kit for worms
Park Tool VP-1 vulcanising patches ( I think I was just lucky with this. Malcolm fromt thecycleclini will have better ones I am sure).
you might want to get an airshot... pricey but saves you a lot of grief if you have to get your tyres seated. thecycleclinic also recommends VAR tyre levers.Ridley Fenix SL0 -
The useful bit of the VAR levers is the clip part. The IRC levers are far stronger so are campagnolo levers. For tubeless lever choice is important as anything too broad or the wrong shape can damage the bead for the tyre (not common but it has happened).
Also tried setting up tubeless tyres on the new Pacenti Forza today man they were tight even for me so much for making it easier. Then the tyre would not go up with a track pump had to use the airshot thingy for the rear but that failed on the front and had to resort to CO2.
Flexible superglue, tyre worms, Park Tool VC-1 valve core remover, a pokey thing to clean out the valve from time to time and some patches. Which will depend on the tyres you are using. I have used inner tube patches and vulcanising rubber glue but the tyres I use have a latex or butyl lining, not all do some tyre need superglue.
Doing some reading on MBTR and it seams cornmeal mixed into sealant can make it more effective and plugging holes and probably the valve. I might be able to use those schwable one's I have hanging up now.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
anyone with experience of the schwalbe blue sealant?Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
itboffin wrote:anyone with experience of the schwalbe blue sealant?
It's rebadged Stansleft the forum March 20230 -
thecycleclinic wrote:
Doing some reading on MBTR and it seams cornmeal mixed into sealant can make it more effective and plugging holes and probably the valve. I might be able to use those schwable one's I have hanging up now.
let us know how you get on with cornmeal.
I reckon there is some glitter in the Orange Endurance sealant as I found a lot of shiny bits on my tyreRidley Fenix SL0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:itboffin wrote:anyone with experience of the schwalbe blue sealant?
It's rebadged Stans
ah right, ta
well the clearance on my on-one 26 frame will take a 700c tyre but not 32c tyre so I'm going 26" mtb tubeless first, lower pressure for a startRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
After struggling to keep my rear All Seasons tyre inflated after another puncture I decided to fit the Sectors to my Ultegra wheelset this weekend. The tyres went on the rims really easily, unfortunately the rear inflates but loses pressure around the entire rim and the front is not inflating at all. Would rather not have to fit tubeless tape to sealed tubeless wheels but looks like I might have to... will give them another go tomorrow.0
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Had a look at a fulcrum wheel running schwable pro one tubeless today, at 90psi it felt rock solid, i didnt think fulcrums came in 2 way fitRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
itboffin wrote:Had a look at a fulcrum wheel running schwable pro one tubeless today, at 90psi it felt rock solid, i didnt think fulcrums came in 2 way fit
Yep. 3's upwards have had that for a while nowMy blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
The gib dog are you using sealant when inflating? if not add some. The issue wont be lack of tubeless rim tape. also have you tried a plug and flexible superglue to fix the hole in the all seasons tyre. If not try that. These two things should be in your back pocket or saddlebag. Also what sealant are you using.
Wiggle seem to have stopped selling the sector28. I can't find a u.k importer either. what has happened to hutchinson.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:The gib dog are you using sealant when inflating? if not add some. The issue wont be lack of tubeless rim tape. also have you tried a plug and flexible superglue to fix the hole in the all seasons tyre. If not try that. These two things should be in your back pocket or saddlebag. Also what sealant are you using.
I think I'm just going to bin the All Seasons, can't see me fitting them again. I don't trust them on crappy roads and I have the Maxxis tyres for summer use. The Sectors have been good so far though, they ride really nicely and coped well with lots of cobbles & dirt roads at the weekend.0 -
30ml of sealant minium.conti sealant is rubbish i have stopped selling it because of that. all tyres puncture. To expect a tubeless tyre never to puncture is optimistic at best. Carry what I suggest and you can plug a hole.the sectors are good but not invunerable. I think IRC are as good as you can get for tubeless puncture resistant but I still carry a small repair kit just in case.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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I appreciate that all tyres puncture. The All Seasons seem to have cut up and punctured more than any tyre I've known though, hence my lack of faith in them. They seem to fundamentally be a race tyre with a (pointless) tread in them, which don't appear to roll particularly nicely.
I like the ease of repairing tubeless by the roadside; a plug is more straightforward than replacing a tube. I've had a couple of plugs push out later so the super glue might be a good fix for that.
Like most people - and as with rim vs disk brakes - I'm agnostic, and will choose what I feel best suits me and the tyre's application. I'm happy to continue with tubeless for the time being, as i think the benefits (no pinch flats, lack of tubes, feel of some tyres) outweigh the negatives (price, fitting). The All Seasons aren't a tyre I'll be using again though.0 -
has anyone tried the maxxis pardone's yet?http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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@thecycleclinic, do you have any views as to the relative rolling resistance levels amongst the IRC options?0
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Guys, my new bike has novotec 30 sl wheels - tubeless ready/compatible. The internal width is 20mm but the tubeless tape I've seen is 19mm or 21mm - what should I go for? Cheers0
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Most tubeless rims are part concave, so the extra 1mm should cover the rim nicely- I'd use 21mm tape.0