Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?

skeetam

munkster wrote:

I'm still getting through my roll (it's done several wheels now!) the only thing is the width (19mm?) which seems to mean you have to be doubly careful, particularly on offset rims I think, to make sure the spoke holes are properly covered. I do have "wider" (23mm+) rims as a rule though. Not the stickiest either so needs quite a hard pull when stretching onto the rim bed but it does work...

You only need it to cover the spoke holes so 19mm should be fine. I found Stans rim tape to to be not very sticky and it moved about a bit when you didn't have enough tension on it. I've used Gorilla tape before when my last roll of rim tape ran out and it worked fine with no issues, might be a bugger to get off though :x

munkster

You only need it to cover the spoke holes so 19mm should be fine.

Well yes, it *should* be, I just find that whereas with slightly wider tape it butts up against the inner edge of the brake track, this stuff has some leeway to be just that bit too far over to one side that it doesn't quite have enough overlap onto the "flat" part of the rim bed (ie. not in the well of the rim profile) and therefore stick down. YMMV clearly and maybe I'm worrying over nothing anyway, as I say, it does work. But then maybe if I'd been a bit more gung ho about it, would it still have worked? I don't know.

Actually that begs a Q - when people are fitting this sort of tape (ie. proper tubeless tape not "alternatives"/bodges) do they manage, or even try, to press the tape down into the well of the rim or not?

I never even try to do this, so that the tape is effectively only "stuck" to the aforementioned flat bits above. Once a tyre has been on and inflated fully it doesn't take long for it to be persuaded into the dip anyway.

tincaman

The last one I did, (on a Prolite Revo) I pressed it down into the well and tried to get all the bubbles out as I went along, pushing them down into the spoke holes. I used 21mm tape so it went all the way to the edge of the rim. I then went back over it with a credit card and made sure all the edges were stuck well down.
The only place I found for 21mm Tesa tape was Cranknuts
http://www.cranknuts.com/tubeless-yellow-rim-tape-roll-66m-for-tubeless-road-cyclocross-and-mountain-bike-rims-and-tyres/

clickrumble

How good are the genuine innovations tyre plugs? Just asking as I put one in after getting a glass cut. The tyre sealed initially when I was out, but it was still weeping sealant the next day so I plugged the hole. It's done about 200miles on the plugged tyre when a big leak start up when I was out on a ride. I've replaced the plug, but I'm wondering how good this repair is and whether the tyre is scrap.

cycleclinic

This is why I like the VAR tape as I always press the tape down to conform to the rim. I dont like seeing bubbles. I have found issues with tape peeling up when tyres removed if the tape is not pressed down. Stans tape require a bit more work to get it to conform to the rim.

I keep on saying the same thing like a broken record. The tyre worm is a fix most of the time but it want the fix to be long term pick up some loctite flexible superglue and use that in conjunction with a tyre worm to ensure the tyre stays sealed.

The tyre is not scrap. Can everyone using tubeless tyres just go and buy some of this superglue.

Also if you used a tyre with a butyl or latex lining then you can try to patch the tyre. You could try patching the tyre on the inside using superglue just be careful not to stick your fingers to the tyre.

Fat-Boy-Roubaix

Well I have had to bail out of tubeless for the most bizarre reason ever, I have found out I am extremely allergic to Propylene Glycol the main ingredient in the sealant.

roubaixmb

Wanders off to buy some loctite

cycleclinic

FBR wear gloves and a hazmat suit? Theres probably a whole forum dedicated to that.

Fat-Boy-Roubaix

thecycleclinic wrote:

FBR wear gloves and a hazmat suit? Theres probably a whole forum dedicated to that.

PG is in everything it is a nightmare for me! Plus the heavy use of Vaping have considered a hazmat suit to get some bloody peace from the stuff!

clickrumble

thecycleclinic wrote:

I keep on saying the same thing like a broken record. The tyre worm is a fix most of the time but it want the fix to be long term pick up some loctite flexible superglue and use that in conjunction with a tyre worm to ensure the tyre stays sealed.

The tyre is not scrap. Can everyone using tubeless tyres just go and buy some of this superglue.

Also if you used a tyre with a butyl or latex lining then you can try to patch the tyre. You could try patching the tyre on the inside using superglue just be careful not to stick your fingers to the tyre.

Oh, sorry, thanks for the advice!

cycleclinic

to an eariler poster who was going to send a schwable back because of a pin hole. Schwable tyre do not have a buytl or latex lining therefore they require sealant to make them air tight.

It is not the tyres fault.

itboffin

i'm so tempted especially as i already have two sets of tubeless ready wheels, but really dont want to splash out on tubeless specific tyres, I know ugo has / does run non tubeless tyres with variable successes, has anyone tried Michelin pro4 SC or endurance or for that matter Rubino pros?

cycleclinic

Those tyres cant be run tubeless the casing is too thin and you cant run much more than 50 psi in non tubeless tyres so that mean wide tyres. If you want to run tubeless tyres try buying some you'll like them.

cycleclinic

There is tubeless version of the schwable marathon supreme in 35mm. For those with clearance this probably is a good tyre.

munkster

@itboffin I've got a pair of Hutchinson Atom Galactik 23mm that did less than 1000 miles before I went to 25mm sat around doing nothing. DM me if interested, I can do "good price" ;-)

Start doing some thumb exercises now if you are going down this route either way...

itboffin

lol owning ultegra wheelset i already have thumbs that look like Sir Chris Hoy legs, i came to the conclusion a long time ago that those wheels with pave tyres negates the need of a repair kit, due to the fact you ain't getting them off to fix without help.

cycleclinic

I will be taking my 23mm roadlites off my race wheels soon and will be fitting wider tyres for racing and a trip to italy.

so there will be another set of cheap tubeless tyres on the forum as well.

cycleclinic

Had a puncture last night on my rear tyre. Got home but with only 15 psi in the tyre. Tonight I took the tyre off to see how much sealant there was left and the anwser not alot. I filled the tyre up (about 40ml) back in mid november with Stan's and what I found when I pulled the tyre of was a bit of white water and the latex all over the inside of the tyre. Quite surprised that the sealant has seperated so quickly in winter. Fresh sealant in and the tyre is inflated and sealed shame it is looking worn than I thought it was.

Moral check your sealant levels regularly. From experience if a puncture is not sealing properly it might there is not enough sealant or the liquid has seperated. Maybe some of the problems encountered here are down to this don't know. I know I will have to be less lazy given I got only 4 months from the sealant in winter.

tincaman

Schwalbe S-one, £70 a pair delivered at Spa Cycles
http://spacycles.co.uk/products.php?show=3628

iso2000

thecycleclinic wrote:

to an eariler poster who was going to send a schwable back because of a pin hole. Schwable tyre do not have a buytl or latex lining therefore they require sealant to make them air tight.

It is not the tyres fault.

Thanks for the replies. I sent it back in the end and got a new one. Both tyres now fitted with sealant and all seems OK. Interesting what you say about the tyre lacking a butyl or latex lining as the one that I fitted without sealant was still full of air a week after the dry fitting. But it was never my intention to run them without sealant anyway.

BTW, like your tubeless fitting video on your site. Perhaps you could do another one where you discuss the tubeless maintenance tips you have shared on this forum, worms, superglue etc. Here's a question, for a road tyre I assume I can cut the worms in half before fitting as otherwise they seem too long.

cycleclinic

I am going to do one. Cycling weekly want to do one if that does happen soon I will have to get the camera out again. I am rubbish though at filming I'd rather have someone else do it.

cycleclinic

for the worms fit them as they are. Then ride when you get home trim them down. the less faff at the roadside the better.

drwae

Thinking of ordering some tubeless tyres soon as my GPs are now more holes than rubber, I spin the wheel and the entire thing is covered in gashes and there are clusters of gashes all close together as well. really disappointing as I have only had these tyres for 2 months and put no more than 1,200km on them.
What do people think of the schwalbe pro one?

cycleclinic

well expect the pro one to be more comfortable as it is tubeless and to feel quick but after 1200km it could look like your conti's. The tyre uses quite a soft compound.

Most tubeless tyres dont seem that durable there are a few though that last very well. IRC and hutshinson sector 28 are your choices it seems for durable tubeless tyres. Don't know many you are using the maxxis tyres maybe ugo can comment as he has them I think but he rides in flint free brum.

drwae

IRC is out of budget, hutchinson sector 28 no way that is going on my bike my current 25mm tyres come up wide on the kinlin rims and I don't have clearance for more how do other hutchinson tyres do like the intensive 2?

cycleclinic

Hutchinson Intensive 2 tubeless are £39.99 at wiggle how is that cheaper than IRC roadlites. I am not trying to sell a tyre here but I think you have your prices backwards.

A cycles have the intenives a bit cheaper (but do they charge for postage I have not looked to know when a price is cheap there is sometimes a catch) but I have no idea what these tyres are like.

Part of the issue is here people want tubeless tyres to be the same price as clinchers but be all singing and all dancing. the circle cannot be squared tubeless tyres cost more to make therefore they are more expensive. You do get what you pay for.

drwae

Considering irc now I think it was the pro one I looked at that made me think they were more expensive
so all I need is tubeless tyres, a pint of stans no tubes sealant and a valve core remover and I'm good to go? I already have tubeless valves and rim tape

clickrumble

Fixed a hole on my front tyre with a tyre plug...I'm having trouble with these as that's the second time it's come out when out on the road, despite using superglue, so going to try a patch now. However my question is; does the sealant (Protect Air Max) react with CO2? I used a CO2 injector to reseat the tyre after plugging it then when the plug came out today 20 miles from home, there was only clear fluid coming out of the hole, which didn't seal, no sign of any white sealant.

skeetam

Clickrumble wrote:

Fixed a hole on my front tyre with a tyre plug...I'm having trouble with these as that's the second time it's come out when out on the road, despite using superglue, so going to try a patch now. However my question is; does the sealant (Protect Air Max) react with CO2? I used a CO2 injector to reseat the tyre after plugging it then when the plug came out today 20 miles from home, there was only clear fluid coming out of the hole, which didn't seal, no sign of any white sealant.

I might be doing it all wrong but I use the 'worms' as temporary, only to get me home. Once home, I take half the bead off, dry with kitchen roll and apply a permanent tubeless patch. I use a small dab of flexible superglue on the inside and outside and then fix the main patch with the standard rubber glue. It works for me.

fat_tail

thecycleclinic wrote:

Hutchinson Intensive 2 tubeless are £39.99 at wiggle how is that cheaper than IRC roadlites. I am not trying to sell a tyre here but I think you have your prices backwards.

A cycles have the intenives a bit cheaper (but do they charge for postage I have not looked to know when a price is cheap there is sometimes a catch) but I have no idea what these tyres are like.

Part of the issue is here people want tubeless tyres to be the same price as clinchers but be all singing and all dancing. the circle cannot be squared tubeless tyres cost more to make therefore they are more expensive. You do get what you pay for.

The road lites come up bigger than the Intensives which measure exactly 25mm for the 25mm version on rims from thecycleclinic. road lites 25mm were more like 27mm on wide rims ! but I see that Malcolm has dropped his prices so will definitely consider them for the next set of tyres. might go for the 23mm if the blow up to 25mm on wide rims.