Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?
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Try a couple more layers of rim tape that should improve things.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Positive tubeless experience this morning. I started noticing tell-tale signs of a puncture as the bicycle dynamics changed. came to stop at some slights noticed that Stan's sealant was leaking from a hole. Spun the wheel around furiously, pumped it it up with a CO2 canister and continued my ride. Seems to be holding air still !Ridley Fenix SL0
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Some times I only know by the sealant flicking my leg.
Need to get my other bike going and it needed a rear, bit more hard work in 23mm guise on to a Bonty TLR wheel but pumped up with a track pump. The sidewall for these says 100-125psi0 -
ignore the recomended pressure use what ever feels best.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
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Bike feels more agile and quicker - but the reality is this is just an average week on the commute lol. Not even any placebo effect. This is using time so it removes any wheel size\Garmin problems0
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thecycleclinic wrote:If you can mount a tyre by hand/if I can mount it by hand it will not go up with a track pump alone. this is because the fit is too loose. it has to be so tight that I cant get it on and I am pretty good at getting tight tyres on by hand. That is the reason why you needed CO2 fatboyroubaix. Tubeless tyres should be a very tight fit. If they are not you have to use compressed air. I find this a pain and good tubeless tyre levers make easy work of mounting a tight tubeless tyre.
Just got details of the new IRC RBCC tyre. A while back I mentioned a new version was out (I have been testing a pair and now got them) but I was unclear exactly what the changes where. The thread pattern is a file thread because a Japanese race team requested it, the RBCC compound has been revised to improve grip and it is now applied further down the shoulder of the tyre than before and the overall width of the 25 and 28mm tyres is that width on wide rims. I figure IRC realised that wide rims are common now so tyres might as well be the quoted width on a wide rim. The other formula pro tyres have the file thread but there are no compound changes that I am aware of.
I guess the rbcc on the site at the moment are an older model then? I'm tempted by a pair - red highlights to match the red flashes on my frame :$0 -
Okay have vented woes with tubeless before on this thread and will do again now. Bear with me!
Zipp 30 Course wheels the freehub came apart so returned to SRAM (I think). It'd been a nightmare getting the tubeless going on the Zipps and I gave up and went back to clinchers.
Need new hoops so plump for Hunt Light Aero. Good wheelset for the £ you pay.
I thought I'd give the tubeless another try. Still had one Schwalbe Pro One from my aborted attempt so purchased a 2nd from Wiggle (25mm).
To my utter amazement they went on easy, inflated easy (like pumping up a clincher) and there were no issues.
Two rides. Second ride puncture. Sealant did it's job okay. Checked the tyre which was the old Pro One. Picked the small glass shard out (0.1mm I'd say) and spun the wheel. Sealed. Excellent.
Go out on the bike last night and a mile in I feel something wet on my leg. Look down sealant spewing out. Spun the seals again. Get home and pump the tyre to 80 psi. Sealant gives out. Now this hole is minute. Okay old tyre I'll order another as £35 now at Wiggle (bought two weeks ago £33!).
I notice I'd put the rear on wrong rotating direction so thought I'd swap it round. Big mistake.
After it being so easy first time around I cannot now get this tyre to inflate. Track pump, CO2 and compressor.
It seems the tyre is to narrow for enough air to push the beads into the rim. Now I can only think where the tyre comes flat when I mounted it the tyre was spread across the rim enough for it to grab. I have again folded it and hope at the weekend it'll have it's flat shape I can try again.
Oddly old Pro One inflated 1st time (albeit with a hole that won't seal).
Back to clinchers?0 -
Sounds like you may need another strip of tubeless rim tape on that wheel. Or if it's just the rim's gully being too deep, then some narrow tubeless tape just to fill it out a bit. Also, if it's old tape, new tape can help too.
From my limited experience (three types of rim, four brands of tyres), each rim/tyre seems to have a different sweet-spot in the way it's set up. So you may need to experiment a little - but the art is to use the tape to build up the rim so the beads seal on the tape in the gully too, just enough to 'catch' when you pump. When you know what works for a particular rim/tyre, it's quite repeatable.
Also, what sealant are you using? If you're using a new clean tyre, it may be worth trying a different sealant?
If it's any conciliation, I haven't had a sealant dump or unsealed puncture since going to tubeless two years ago. I've been using Stans sealant but I'm going to try Orange Endurance next - one of the local shops raves about it.0 -
Success with a loop of electrical tape.0
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Had a problem twice now with the tubeless valve popping though the rim so the wide rubber bung bit is stuck between the inner rim hole and the outer rim hole. Anyone had this? or any solutions?
Also did I imagine it or was there an alternative yellow tape to the stans tape somewhere in this thread?0 -
Orange do a tape too - did you mean that one? http://orangesealed.com/shop/ornagesealrimtape18mm0
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I imagine you mean the tesa tape that can be bought cheaply on eBay.0
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stevie63 wrote:I imagine you mean the tesa tape that can be bought cheaply on eBay.
Yeah that's the stuff, I'll have a look if it's the same as the stans tape0 -
Stupid question alert! Is all sealant the same and can you mix different sealants when toping up a tyre?0
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No they re not the same (but they re similar)
Some are - Schwalbe Sealant is Stans Sealant for example.
With regard to mixing, it might be better to wait until the tyre wears out or your talking it off fo another reason but if you re just adding in a tad...meh, sod it. Noth worth the hassle.We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
Bit of an off topic tubeless question - hope you don't mind it in the thread. I've just got a cross bike with basic Maddux CX 2.0 wheels. Had a puncture and took the tyre off but the beads had stayed seated on the rim bed and needed to be pushed off - much like my tubeless wheels. The rim tape is standard stuff but I'm wondering if folks think they're tubeless rims (they're not advertised as such). Obviously will need appropriate tape...
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yes they are tubeless rims.
graememacd - are you getting leaks. Soundslike the valve hole is too big in your wheels for the valve. Never had this but I do ensure the valve is very firmly seated and then screw the collar on so tight that the rubber bung is pulled down a bit. Had once the valve come loose when riding since then I have been a little paranoid. If there is no leak then there is little to worry about.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
'bradsbeard - your experience with schwable tyres is why I have stopped using them myself and stopped selling them. A tyre with so much promise but are so much of a let down - literally.
Try Hutchinson sector 28's or dare I say it IRC. Little else on the market that are actually robust but more tyres are not needed as these are all good.
go back to clinchers well I did for a time last year but got tired of punctures so went back to tubeless again just not schwables. Giving up on tubeless tyres after find one that is not right for you is like giving up on clinchers after a the first time you try and going back to solid tyres. You would not do that so why give up on tubeless so easily.
tubeless tyre beads stretch so when removed they can unless the fit is very tight to begin with end up not seating and sealing without compressed air. This is why I say if the tyre goes on easily add more tape.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
has anyone used that tesa tape that can be bought on ebay as tubeless rim tape? does it work alright?0
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has anyone used that tesa tape that can be bought on ebay as tubeless rim tape? does it work alright?
Yes and yes. So far anyway (couple of 000km i guess) YMMV.0 -
jdee84 wrote:has anyone used that tesa tape that can be bought on ebay as tubeless rim tape? does it work alright?
This is the stuff that Ugo recommended I think, yes used it on my RR440 wheels and it works a treat. I mean its tape right...and it does the job that tape should do.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Yeah thumbs up from me as well. The good thing is you get so much that if you tape wrong you can pull it off an start again. Also if you need an extra layer again no worries.0
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drlodge wrote:jdee84 wrote:has anyone used that tesa tape that can be bought on ebay as tubeless rim tape? does it work alright?
This is the stuff that Ugo recommended I think, yes used it on my RR440 wheels and it works a treat. I mean its tape right...and it does the job that tape should do.
haha thanks! although celotape is tape right? i dont think it would be appropriate! video tape is tape but i doubt that would stick to the rim never mind create a seal0 -
Any idea on a good commuting tyre that doesn't break the bank? Looking for a 25-28mm for riding all weathers, about 8000km a year. I want something I can fit and forget to a certain extent. Usually end up meeting up with some mates on the way home and giving it some beans so I don't want something too heavy and slow.0
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Paul 8v wrote:Any idea on a good commuting tyre that doesn't break the bank? Looking for a 25-28mm for riding all weathers, about 8000km a year. I want something I can fit and forget to a certain extent. Usually end up meeting up with some mates on the way home and giving it some beans so I don't want something too heavy and slow.
Schwalbe One - was a lovely tyre to ride but lost air overnight, and from 800 miles it became unreliable. This wasn't just one this was 23mm and 25 mm and about 3-4 sets between them. And cut up awful
Hutchinson Intensive were ok up to about 2000+ miles but then hot a horrible sidewall split\bulge, not really their fault.
Panaracers both front and back suffered with small cuts but both had one had a big one that went from the centre to the side wall the front one repaired fine and is still on the front, the rear had to be binned as it was bulging.
I have tried Hutchinson Atom's I think early on but cannot remember what they were like. I am over 12000 miles on tubeless and the Panaraer was the only one I had to call for a lift, more my fault than the tyre I had repaired it at the roadside but the valve was gummed up with sealant and I couldn't get any air in. Now carry spare cores and a core tool!
But I have dropped carrying tubes and a pump and just a patch kit and CO2 with spare cartridges0 -
I'd not seen the S One, that's quite interesting, and a decent width for winter when all the roads start to fall to pieces!0
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I bought them for the winter having mullered 25mm Ones in 2.5 months on the winter bike - always felt they might be slowing me down but maybe cost me 5-10 min's across week if that.
They do deaden the bike a bit on corners and throwing it around or out the saddle but make it ride plusher. But for winter I would say they are perfect.0 -
I ran Hutchinson Intensive 25's. £40 each..
They sealed a small puncture that was made by a tiny shard of glass but unfortunately failed to seal a slightly larger split resulting in sealant all over the bike and road.
I managed to fit in a tube and return home.
I tried to repair the tyre with Hutchinson's Tubeless Repair Kit but it bulged so i ended up having to bin the tyre. I've since ditched "Tubeless" on the road bike and haven't had a puncture since.... "touch wood".0 -
So try another tyre. Fusion's do get a mixed write up. Some get on with them some don't so it maybe the tyre that is problem not tubeless per se.
Keep running with inner tubes and you get that puncture in the end.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
I'm about to replace my Conti 4seasons 28mm and thought it would be as good a time as any to try tubeless.
What would be the recommendation for tyre that rides similarly to the 4season, lasts well and is available in 25mm or 28mm size? I don't think the S-One in 30mm will fit, so I'm leaning towards a Roadlite.
Wheels are Archetypes and I fitted Stans yellow tape (2 layers) when I first got them, if that's useful info.
TIA0