Scott Foil - Westbrook Cycles

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Comments

  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Yes.

    The geometries are extremely similar. Although the Foil has a marginally shorter head tube, the fork length (not in the geo chart) is about 1cm longer than on the Ribble, so actually the stack will be slightly higher on the Foil. But the smaller bottom bracket drop takes a couple of mm off that, so you will be talking about 3mm.. ;-)

    Do you know what the seat post setback was on the Ribble? Seat tube angles are identical on the two frames, which makes things a lot simpler.
  • J273
    J273 Posts: 382
    neeb wrote:
    Yes.

    The geometries are extremely similar. Although the Foil has a marginally shorter head tube, the fork length (not in the geo chart) is about 1cm longer than on the Ribble, so actually the stack will be slightly higher on the Foil. But the smaller bottom bracket drop takes a couple of mm off that, so you will be talking about 3mm.. ;-)

    Do you know what the seat post setback was on the Ribble? Seat tube angles are identical on the two frames, which makes things a lot simpler.


    Yeah, It came with a set-back post rather than inline and seemed spot on. Im unsure on what the set back was though.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v346/JIM273/SIG.jpg
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Probably 15-25 mm. If it was 15 mm you'd have the saddle rails 1 cm further forward on the Foil. If it was 25 mm you'd put the seatpost clamp in exactly the same place on the Foil.
  • chiark
    chiark Posts: 335
    Have been umming and aahing about building a bike for months, and finally pushed the order button. Started off looking at planetx, then the cycledivision offers, then decided I should try to get the best frame possible for the money and stumbled across westbrook cycles.

    Have ordered the 2013 Foil Team Issue HMX with DI2 electric kit - £1399.

    Sigma Sport are cheapest for the ultegra crankset at the moment, and also have an extra 10% off everything, so Ultegra 6800 crankset, cassette, brakes, chain and pedals came in at £340.

    I have Ksyrium Elite S wheels already, plus spare saddle. Will save pennies for decent bars after a bike fit, but will make do with second hand Ritchey Comp for the moment.

    I'd set myself a budget of 2 grand and wanted a superb carbon framed bike with DI2. Never expected I'd get quite this much for my money! Astonishing amount of bike. It all arrives tomorrow :D .
    Synapse Alloy 105 / Rock Lobster Tig Team Sl
  • chiark
    chiark Posts: 335
    Oh, and if someone needs a cheap and suitable torque wrench, MachineMart have 1/4 drive torque wrenches capable of going from 5-25Nm for £24.
    http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... e%20wrench
    Synapse Alloy 105 / Rock Lobster Tig Team Sl
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    chiark wrote:

    Have ordered the 2013 Foil Team Issue HMX with DI2 electric kit - £1399.

    Sigma Sport are cheapest for the ultegra crankset at the moment, and also have an extra 10% off everything, so Ultegra 6800 crankset, cassette, brakes, chain and pedals came in at £340.

    Are you sure you didn't pay £1499?

    £1399 is frame set only isn't it? Or did you go for the HMF frame?

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • chiark
    chiark Posts: 335
    I'm sure I didn't pay 1499. Offer code FOILDI2 to bring it down by 100 quid to 1399. Even says this on the order page, which is nice :)
    http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 13-p213652

    Voucher for 10% off at Sigma is EXTRA10 if I remember rightly - again, this is publicised on Sigma's website.
    Synapse Alloy 105 / Rock Lobster Tig Team Sl
  • pippi_langsamer-2
    pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,470
    Yeah I just paid 1399 for the HMX electronic pack using code above...
  • iwantblue
    iwantblue Posts: 134
    would blue Hope3 Hubs look Gash in that HMX frame in the short term?
  • jon33
    jon33 Posts: 256
    Does anyone have any instructions on assembling the forks?

    Edit: So I've got the basic idea, which bits, if any, need grease? How do the forks actually "stay in" is it just the attachment of the stem? :S
  • pippi_langsamer-2
    pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,470
    jon33 wrote:
    Does anyone have any instructions on assembling the forks?

    Edit: So I've got the basic idea, which bits, if any, need grease? How do the forks actually "stay in" is it just the attachment of the stem? :S

    I really don't mean to be rude by this, but if you're asking that question, you really would be wise to get a shop to assemble your new bike. Could be (little), money well spent over (lots), of money and tears lost if you feck up.
  • jon33
    jon33 Posts: 256
    I dont intend on fecking it up hence why I was asking as I couldn't find a comprehensive answer elsewhere. I want to learn to do it myself
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Take it slowly and make sure you know exactly how everything works before you try to fit it together.

    Yes, the clamping of the stem onto the steerer tube is what holds the forks in place and keeps the headset bearings tensioned. You use the cap that screws into the bung in the steerer to get everything at the right tension before tightening the stem bolts. You need to have a 3 or 4mm gap between the top of the steerer and the top of the stem, or more sensibly the top of a 5mm or 1cm spacer that sits on top of the stem. Beware of damaging the steerer through over-torquing the stem bolts... this is quite easy if the bung is offering resistance to compression underneath one of the stem bolts but not the other due to its size and/or position. Personally I prefer to use longer bungs for this reason, e.g. the deda one: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/deda-expander-bung/
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    The only thing that really needs grease on the fork/headset is the headset bearings and they should be pre-greased. You could also put a bit of grease on the built-in carbon fork crown. You DON'T want any grease on the steerer or stem clamp surface, in fact you should wipe it with a solvent and apply some carbon paste to increase friction.
  • pippi_langsamer-2
    pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,470
    So who's fitted the internal battery into the Foil seat tube? Does the DI2 shim and "wings", fit and seat into the non-circular section of the post, or is some bodging required to get it to stay in there?
  • rjsmith
    rjsmith Posts: 1,924
    I fitted my internal battery. Didn't bother with the shim, just bubble wrap thin layer and long zip tie so it can be fished out very easily.
  • chiark
    chiark Posts: 335
    The kit comes with an extra adaptor to allow the battery to fit in the aero tube. Seems to work and seems unlikely to fall out...
    Mine came with these: http://ritcheylogic.com/road/seatposts/ ... ounts.html
    Synapse Alloy 105 / Rock Lobster Tig Team Sl
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    Mine didn't come with that mount. I ended up packing it into a bit of pacaging tubing and covering it in insulation tape to make it a tightish fit. Hope it works...

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    neeb wrote:
    Front derailleur - my frame has a sticker on it saying "max torque 40 KGF/CM", which I believe is only about 4 Nm....
    Incidentally, I'd been having slight problems recently with front shifting (mechanical SR) and noticed today that my front D. had gone out of alignment a little - it had rotated so that the rear end of the cage was "toed-in" a bit. 4 Nm isn't much.. I've tightened it to 5 now and we'll see what happens. I actually had it at 6 or 7 Nm for months when I first got the frame as I hadn't noticed the sticker and was just following the derailleur instructions... Didn't seem to do any harm, although I wouldn't recommend it.. ;-)

    Possibly less of an issue with electronic shifting as there is no cable tension involved.
  • pippi_langsamer-2
    pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,470
    With regards the press-fit bb, how easy is it to knock out? I've got the BB30 removal "tool", but doubt it will fit exactyl with the Shimano press fit...
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Pippi Langsamer wrote:
    With regards the press-fit bb, how easy is it to knock out? I've got the BB30 removal "tool", but doubt it will fit exactyl with the Shimano press fit...
    It's easy, you just have to be careful. You don't need a special tool. See my post a few pages back.
  • jon33
    jon33 Posts: 256
    Just going back to my earlier question about the headset, I know how it fits together but I've found conflicting opinions on greasing and parts of it.

    I've found this picture which sums up which parts go where

    ScreenShot2014-03-21at095323.png

    Would you grease the gap between the crown race and bearings etc...?

    Thanks again
  • antsmithmk
    antsmithmk Posts: 717
    Personally I would lightly grease all those contact surfaces. But I know not a lot!
  • jon33
    jon33 Posts: 256
    Oh and if it did need greasing, would the lithium grease I have be suitable?
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    I think you are over-thinking it. The top headset race comes pressed in already. The actual bearings will already have grease in them, which is the most important thing. Probably best to pack the inside of the top race with grease and put some on the crown race too. Lithium grease will be fine.
  • jon33
    jon33 Posts: 256
    neeb wrote:
    I think you are over-thinking it. The top headset race comes pressed in already. The actual bearings will already have grease in them, which is the most important thing. Probably best to pack the inside of the top race with grease and put some on the crown race too. Lithium grease will be fine.

    Perfect thanks for that. I over think everything.... :(
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    jon33 wrote:
    neeb wrote:
    I think you are over-thinking it. The top headset race comes pressed in already. The actual bearings will already have grease in them, which is the most important thing. Probably best to pack the inside of the top race with grease and put some on the crown race too. Lithium grease will be fine.

    Perfect thanks for that. I over think everything.... :(

    You need to stick a few crayons up your nose. Always fixes that sort of problem.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Wibble!
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    neeb wrote:
    Sort of off-topic, but has anyone heard any rumors about Scott's plans for the 2015 range as regards the Foil? The current frame has pretty much been unchanged for a few years now, but on the other hand it still holds its own perfectly well against the competition and seems still to be the bike of choice for most pros on Scott sponsored teams.

    My guess is that they might do some minor tweaks along the lines of Bianchi's changes from the Oltre => Oltre XR => XR2, but keep the basic design. I hope they at least continue the Foil model name, along with the Addict it has become iconic for Scott in the same way that the Madone has for Trek, Tarmac & Venge for Specialized etc.
    Looks like our Foils won't be out-of-date for another year:

    http://www.bikeradar.com/news/article/s ... ore-41552/

    Same frames for 2015 with some new paint jobs. Saw this on a Japanese site. 2015 IAM team edition maybe?

    1000.jpg
  • jon33
    jon33 Posts: 256
    Thought I was finished with my build, took it down the street - wobbly headset, had it apart a few times and still seems to be wobbling. Any ideas?

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