Scott Foil - Westbrook Cycles

DKay

My rear brake cable from the shifter is pretty much identical to yours in terms of length. I've just checked and my rear brake also comes on very slightly, if I turn the bars a lot to the right. However, it's not a problem as the pads still don't make contact with the rim and it only happens whe I turn the bars past an angle of 30 degrees, which is way more than I would during normal riding.

I'm guessing that our cable outers are just a smidge too short. That's my diagnosis anyway.

londoncommuter

Many thanks for checking. Do you think it's just poor design that the stop can move so much? There's mention on here of replacement metal ones:

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13035742

DKay

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19714307#p19714307]londoncommuter[/url] wrote:

Many thanks for checking. Do you think it's just poor design that the stop can move so much? There's mention on here of replacement metal ones:

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13035742

Read that thread a while ago too. But, I don't think it's any fault of the cable stop, but our fault for cutting the outer an inch too short. When Westbrooks replaced my frame a few weeks ago, they mentioned that the outer was a little too short and right on the limit.

londoncommuter

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19714317#p19714317]DKay[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19714307#p19714307]londoncommuter[/url] wrote:

Many thanks for checking. Do you think it's just poor design that the stop can move so much? There's mention on here of replacement metal ones:

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13035742

Read that thread a while ago too. But, I don't think it's any fault of the cable stop, but our fault for cutting the outer an inch too short. When Westbrooks replaced my frame a few weeks ago, they mentioned that the outer was a little too short and right on the limit.

Oh no, what happened to your frame?

I still wonder though if the length of the outer matters though as if the stop can flex so easily in the frame then it's always going to be a problem?

neeb

I had the "scraping noise" on turning the bars when I first built up my Foil. I think it's the rear brake cable rubbing against the steerer tube inside the head tube... I had nightmares about it eventually sawing through the carbon steerer...

Certain cable routings seem to cause this, maybe because of how the outers push against each other when you turn the bars. Try running the front brake cable housing outside of the rear one instead of inside/through it. But you might also need to lengthen the rear cable housing a little too.

DKay

Oh no, what happened to your frame?

Di2 front mech wasn't changing from small to big correctly. Westbrooks diagnosed a cracked carbon front mech hanger and replaced the frame, no hassles. They took all my bits off and fitted it all to a new frame within eight days. Top service.

itboffin

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19714317#p19714317]DKay[/url] wrote:

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19714307#p19714307]londoncommuter[/url] wrote:

Many thanks for checking. Do you think it's just poor design that the stop can move so much? There's mention on here of replacement metal ones:

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13035742

Read that thread a while ago too. But, I don't think it's any fault of the cable stop, but our fault for cutting the outer an inch too short. When Westbrooks replaced my frame a few weeks ago, they mentioned that the outer was a little too short and right on the limit.

Yep I'd agree its at at least 1/2 inch too short IMO

londoncommuter

Thanks guys for all of your advice.

That does make sense that it's the cable rubbing on the steerer as it is reasonably loud. Happy I understand now but freaked out at the cause! What's the solution?

On your set ups with longer cables, is it still possible to flex the cable stop by pushing the outer against it (again, I'm not sure if it's the plastic end bit flexing or the whole thing moving in the frame but I'm guessing it's the whole thing as that would then shove the inner a little to the left in the top tube, effectively lengthening it and pulling on the brakes)?

I'm just not clear how lengthening the outer would reduce the sideways force massively as it still enters the stop straight on and the bars still push the outer to the right when you turn them. The outer either has to flex (which I appreciate it would do a little more with an extra 1/2 inch) or the stop be forced to the right.

Maybe over thinking this I just want to be sure of the problem and fix before getting more outer and potentially wrecking my brand new inner and bar tape.

Thanks for your patience.

PS I can't believe I've had so few rides out of this and it's autumn now. Next year I'm determined to be less of a wuss with dirt and moisture in the air and actually use it.

vinnymarsden

I took the plunge on a Scott Foil last year (2014) and the bike is great..does everything I want, however I have to agree with the recent post re the cabling..not so much the brake coming on as you turn, thats quite simply too short a cable run.. I know, I did it myself.there is NO simple fix..just new cables really..sorry!
The rattling from the internal cable on the top tube is more than annoying though!
I came up with a "fix" not a solution..lol I took out the seat post, and using some flexible wire i "pushed" rolled up tubes of fine bubble wrap in the top tube and worked them down towards the steerer..and voila!! No more rattling! Not something that should need to be done, in my opinion I think Scott have missed the bus on this one, but hey, does anyone know a "perfect" bike manufacturer? Im sure there is one somewhere, but that will be the exotics at £10'000 plus, too rich for my blood!
For every frame that doesn't rattle there will be another little quirk I hazard a guess, but the fix I undertook works, and the bike was a real deal so no losers really.

norvernrob

[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19714484#p19714484]londoncommuter[/url] wrote:

Thanks guys for all of your advice.

That does make sense that it's the cable rubbing on the steerer as it is reasonably loud. Happy I understand now but freaked out at the cause! What's the solution?

On your set ups with longer cables, is it still possible to flex the cable stop by pushing the outer against it (again, I'm not sure if it's the plastic end bit flexing or the whole thing moving in the frame but I'm guessing it's the whole thing as that would then shove the inner a little to the left in the top tube, effectively lengthening it and pulling on the brakes)?

I'm just not clear how lengthening the outer would reduce the sideways force massively as it still enters the stop straight on and the bars still push the outer to the right when you turn them. The outer either has to flex (which I appreciate it would do a little more with an extra 1/2 inch) or the stop be forced to the right.

Maybe over thinking this I just want to be sure of the problem and fix before getting more outer and potentially wrecking my brand new inner and bar tape.

Thanks for your patience.

PS I can't believe I've had so few rides out of this and it's autumn now. Next year I'm determined to be less of a wuss with dirt and moisture in the air and actually use it.

Just had a look at mine and the cable stop does move, causing the rubbing sound if I turn the bars. However - I've done a couple of thousand miles on the bike and haven't noticed it when out riding, so it's a non-issue for me.

My outer is slightly longer than yours, but not by a massive amount, and the rear brake doesn't pull on when the bars are turned.

Edit: Just read the post above about the cable rattling in the TT and realised I haven't heard it for ages, it was really noticeable over rough surfaces but seems to have stopped.

Here's my cable run if it's any help.

rozzer32

I can hear my rear brake cable scraping the inside of the top tube when I apply the brake. Even with the bars in the straight ahead position. Basically it scrapes when ever I use the rear brake. I can't hear it when riding but when doing it stationary can hear it clear as day. I've checked the plastic cable stops where it enters/exits the frame as per previous posters but they both appear intact.

Anyone got any ideas?