@ Genesis Equilibrium riders
Comments
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Finished building one of the few Equilibriums in Australia!
2013 Genesis Equilibrium Frame
SRAM Apex Groupset
Fulcrum Racing 3 Wheelset
Speedplay pedals
Leather Saddle + bag
Richley stem + post
...and whatever else
Click for full-sized image -> http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=efwnh
Only done about 80km so far but I'm liking it. I'll cut the steering tube soon (wanted to be sure of the height before cutting.)0 -
That looks good, I'm liking the burnt copper colour.
This one's in the West.
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Honestly, I was wishing the red was still being made when I bought the copper, but now that I see it built I'm very happy with this colour. It does have a certain 70's brown retro feel to it though - especially with the leather saddle/bars.
I'll look out for you next time I'm over west - work sends me across every few months although Perth is just the airport I use to get to Freo and Rocky...0 -
MellowFellow wrote:Finished building one of the few Equilibriums in Australia!
Click for full-sized image -> http://www.overclockers.com.au/pix/index.php?page=image&id=efwnh0 -
MellowFellow wrote:Honestly, I was wishing the red was still being made when I bought the copper, but now that I see it built I'm very happy with this colour. It does have a certain 70's brown retro feel to it though - especially with the leather saddle/bars.
I'll look out for you next time I'm over west - work sends me across every few months although Perth is just the airport I use to get to Freo and Rocky...
Will soon have a new 'off the peg' Equilibrium 20 but having ordered a 56 I'm not sure whether I should have gone for a 58. I'm just under 5ft 11ins and currently ride a Specialised Roubaix Elite 56. Tried both but still not sure - any thoughts?0 -
I'm 5ft 10in and have a 56. Perfect fit!0
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Thanks Phil,
My only concern is that the Evans site suggests that a 58 would be better0 -
I'm 6 and a tiny bit and find the 56 a really nice fit. Best to try and get your leg over both, next to check geo against something which already fits.0
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A 56 will definitely be best, at least then you won't end up with a 75mm stem like the blue one on the previous page. WTF.0
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I am 5 11 and have a 56. It works ok ish with a 100 mm stem. If yiu go for the 58 the issue is going to be reach. I suspect you may have to go to a 90 mm stem. My issue is a lack of flexibility on my part.0
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A 56 it is which I will pick up on Saturday, can't wait.0
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carlflinn wrote:A 56 it is which I will pick up on Saturday, can't wait.
Yeah, you made the right choice. I'm just under 5'11 and have a 56 with a 100mm stem. I would have preferred a 110mm stem, but with my sloping shoulders I need it to be that little bit shorter.0 -
Yep right choice unless you have very short legs and a long torso... I was thinking about Evans suggesting a 58. The equilibrium has a quite relaxed geometry it's not a slow bike but it's not a race bike either. If you compared it next to a race bike it *might* look like you need to go a size up I order to stretch out and get lower. That position would imo spoil the ride of the bike and therefore the enjoyment you get from it being very comfortable and very confidence inspiring particularly downhill. Plus if you want race geometry by a race bike.....--
Chris
Genesis Equilibrium - FCN 3/4/50 -
Thanks to everybody that replied, I am now the proud owner of 'Genny', a Genesis Equilibrium 20 size 56 which fits me just fine. Only done 60 odd miles so far, but really enjoyed it and looking forward to the weekend when it will hopefully be a bit warmer.0
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If you were trying to find a new fork for your Equilibrium, would you choose a fork that increases or decreases the trail?
I was thinking about the Kinesis DC07 Carbon fork. It has a 43mm rake whereas the Genesis fork has a 45mm rake. Thus the Genesis fork should be a bit more agile for having a smaller trail of roughly 2mm (if you neglect the 1mm difference in axle-to-crown length and its effect on the head angle).
I know the difference is small but still I'm asking for your opinions (or experience). To which direction would you like the change to be? Have you explored the extremes, i.e., what were the measures of the fork that made the ride feel uncontrollable or sluggish?0 -
panyagua wrote:@nigglenoo (and/or other size 52 riders), do you mind me asking how tall you are? I'm on the verge of ordering an Equilibrium frame to build up, and can't decide whether I should go 52 or 54. I test rode a 52 at Evans and it felt OK size-wise, but there was no 54 to compare it with. I'm between 5ft 6 and 5ft 7, normal proportions. Current bike has similar length VTT to the 54 but I do get some lower back discomfort on longer rides, so wonder if I may be a touch stretched on it. Any replies from other smallish riders much appreciated - thanks...
I'm also interested in this, since I'm looking for a new ride for my fiancee who is just under 5ft 8 (172cm) with a 29.5" inseam (75cm). With no possibility to test the bike, I'd like to hear opinions on the frame sizing. I'm torn between 52cm and 54cm.
She currently rides a 54cm Kona Jake 2009 that is too large for her IMO. I had to switch in a 80mm stem, and move the saddle as forward as possible with an inline seat post in order to shorten the reach. Furthermore, the seat post isn't exposed as much as I'd deem normal. However, my girl doesn't seem be complaining too much. Only occasional back/neck pain after a longer ride, which I take as a sign of a too long reach.
Here are the crucial numbers of the Kona Jake 54cm:
Seat Tube C-T 540mm
Top Tube TTH 551mm
Head Tube HT 135mm
Same measures for Equilibrium 52cm
Seat Tube C-T 490mm
Effective Top Tube 538mm
Head Tube 132mm
and Equilibrium 54cm
Seat Tube C-T 510mm
Effective Top Tube 545mm
Head Tube 140mm
Both, the 52cm and 54cm Equilibriums seem to be smaller than the 54cm Kona Jake. Hence, both will be definite improvements to the current situation. Originally, I was certain that 52cm would be the right size but now I've began to doubt myself. Any opinions?0 -
Afternoon fellow Equilibriumites, how often do you change your chain? Mines due a change, should I just get another Shimano 105 as per the following link (116 links?) or is there a considerably better chain around this price point (give or take another tenner).
www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx ... tedKingdomFirst love - Genesis Equilibrium 20
Dirty - Forme Calver CX Sport
Quickie - Scott CR1 SL HMX
Notable ex's - Kinesis Crosslight, Specialized Tricross0 -
PorlyWorly wrote:Afternoon fellow Equilibriumites, how often do you change your chain? Mines due a change, should I just get another Shimano 105 as per the following link (116 links?) or is there a considerably better chain around this price point (give or take another tenner).
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... tedKingdom0 -
adebisi wrote:I'm also interested in this, since I'm looking for a new ride for my fiancee who is just under 5ft 8 (172cm) with a 29.5" inseam (75cm).0
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MellowFellow wrote:adebisi wrote:I'm also interested in this, since I'm looking for a new ride for my fiancee who is just under 5ft 8 (172cm) with a 29.5" inseam (75cm).
1) same as men's but with a different paint job, saddle width, handlebar width and crank length,
2) made with smaller people in mind, say <5'4"ish. Here Manufacturers have basically two options, to adopt smaller wheels or to compromise the ideal seat tube and steering tube angles to avoid toe overlap caused by the short top tube.
Hence, I believe that any female rider above 170cm will be just fine on a men's frame provided that the saddle and handlebar have the right width and cranks not too long. But as I said, this is only my belief. You're welcome to enlighten me if you see that I'm wrong.[/ranting]
Thanks for the answer MellowFellow. A 90mm stem sounds still reasonable. You do not happen to have a picture of your bike, do you? Or even better, a picture of you on your bike?0 -
^ In my experience women tend to be different shapes to men
In an ideal world we'd all be riding custom fitted bikes tailored to our individual measurements. Failing that it is a good idea to look for a geometry that best fits your body shape. Women typically have proportionally longer legs and a shorter torso than men so might benefit from a shorter top tube or stem. Long legs and short arms can result is an uncomfortable 'bum-in-the-air' position with standard geometries.
Women typically would have narrower shoulders and hence might benefit from narrower bars.
I don't think I need to explain why ladies and men's saddles are likely to have rather different designs.....
Of course many other factors will influence the preferred geometry and unless you plan or using the bike competitively I'd always err towards something more relaxed and comfortable. As always it makes sense to try a bike out if at all possible rather than rely of spec sheets.Nobody told me we had a communication problem0 -
adebisi wrote:Thanks for the answer MellowFellow. A 90mm stem sounds still reasonable. You do not happen to have a picture of your bike, do you? Or even better, a picture of you on your bike?
My understanding of womans bikes is cursory but echoes walkingbootweather in that proportionally shorter top tubes and different saddles/bars are used. I have a feeling lady legs are built different too with more height below the knee or something which impacts the setback of the seat. I don't mind if you buy her an Eqiulibrium but it may be enlightening (for you and us) if you went to a bike shop, put a mens and womans bike of the same size next to each other and had a look at the differences.
My woman rides the cheapest rubbish we could buy on the rare occasion I can get her to go out so this isn't a topic I've researched heavily.0 -
On the comparison of women's and men's proportions, I have read on the CTC forum that men and women in the UK of the same height actually have very similar proportions, the leggy women thing is some kind of fantasy. However the narrower shoulders thing does ring true and the ideal saddle width will be affected by the sitting bone width, which will usually be wider for women, but neither of these affects frame size and in all cases you should measure the individual and ignore the marketing clap trap. I see no reason why a 5'8" woman should not be able to get a good fit with an Equilibrium frame, probably a 54cm but best to check with a bike fitting or by measuring a current bike set up that works.0
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Does any equilibrium rider also own a croix de fer, if so, how do feel they are different?
thanks0 -
samsbike wrote:Does any equilibrium rider also own a croix de fer, if so, how do feel they are different?
thanks
I have a Day One and an Equilibrium, so not quite the direct comparison you were after, but probably reasonably close. Even on 23mm tyres, the Equilibrium is way more comfortable than the Day One on 35s, it's much faster too. The brakes aren't as good, though, obviously.0 -
Been following this thread for a while and thought I'd post up the Equilibrium that I built up yesterday. It's not a brilliant pic and I've sorted out the handlebars today. Interestingly, through some judicious internet searching, I've built this with a better spec and for less money than the Equilibrium 20.
Spec is
Equilibrium Frame and Fork
Chris King Headset
Shimano 105 - 5700 with R650 Calipers
Mavic Open Pros on Ultegra Hubs - My own handbuilds
Ritchey Classic Seatpost, Stem and Handlebar
Michelin Pro 4 Endurance Tyres
Charge Spoon Ti/Leather Saddle
Selle Monte Grappa Leather Bar Tape.
105 Pedals - I already had those
Came in at £1020 - I don't pay VAT (living in the Channel Islands) but even allowing for that, still a pretty good spec for the money I'd say.Basso Astra
Principia Ellipse SX
Kinesis Racelight 4S
Kinesis Crosslight Pro Disc0 -
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^^ Very nice!
I've got to agree, considering how cheap the framesets are, I do think the full build 20 is overpriced.0 -
Hello - I've just taken delivery of my lovely brand new Equilibrium 20 (my first 'proper' geared bike) and just had a question I wanted to throw out to more experienced riders/owners... the only less than perfect thing about the bike to me is the brakes and the stopping power - I find that I can't stop 'urgently' or with any power from the hoods, and have to go into the drops to brake from there, which certainly doesn't seem optimal. Is this just a standard feature of 'hood' brakes (I've only ever used cross-top brakes on single speeds previously) or is this the impact of the low-spec calipers/brake pads (why didn't they go with 105 calipers?!)? I was hoping others might have some advice to offer on this - I've got a campangolo veloce caliper sitting around at home that I thought I might put on it - would it be a good idea to upgrade the calipers immediately (tempted by 105 to complete the set...), or is this something I'm just going to have to learn to live with?
The only other change I was contemplating was upgrading the tyres to something properly kevlar and puncture resistant - am cycling Edinburgh to London in May and don't want to be dealing with punctures every day - I've had the Schwalbe Marathons on my single speed and not a puncture in over a year cycling in London so going to get a new set of those unless anyone has any very strong alternative recommendations?
Any help/advice massively appreciated!
Cheers0 -
You could try upgrading the brake pads to a decent cartridge pad. Swissstop Green pads are worth a look, as are Koolstops or BBB techstops.
The Tektro calipers arent great though, but you won't be able to use 105 calipers since you need "long drops" to clear the mud guards.
Try some Shimano BR451 calipers.0