Planet X Spitfire Ti

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  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Rich_T_ said:

    Do you know please about the crown race, I am assuming it comes with the headset and I'll send that to the LBS also.

    Cheers
    Richard

    I got the Selcof headset from PX so not the same as Wiggle’s. If I remember correctly, the crown race was the split type so there was no effort or tool required to seat it. However, you do need a proper carbon fork plug rather than the star nut supplied with headset. Also, you might consider getting the LBS to cut your fork as that and pressing in the cups are really the only tricky parts to the build.

  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24

    I got the Selcof headset from PX so not the same as Wiggle’s. If I remember correctly, the crown race was the split type so there was no effort or tool required to seat it. However, you do need a proper carbon fork plug rather than the star nut supplied with headset. Also, you might consider getting the LBS to cut your fork as that and pressing in the cups are really the only tricky parts to the build.

    Thanks I've got steerer bung, stem, handle bars etc all in order. My assumption (dangerous) would be that the fork would only need cutting to ”slam” it would fit by default with a generous but not excessive set of spacers. I can see certain preferences in this thread 😎. If I get fit and fast again I'll consider that.

    The risk now is that I rush it due to the excitement and break something in the process.
  • davidof
    davidof Posts: 3,095
    edited June 2022
    Rich_T_ said:


    I got the Selcof headset from PX so not the same as Wiggle’s. If I remember correctly, the crown race was the split type so there was no effort or tool required to seat it. However, you do need a proper carbon fork plug rather than the star nut supplied with headset. Also, you might consider getting the LBS to cut your fork as that and pressing in the cups are really the only tricky parts to the build.

    Thanks I've got steerer bung, stem, handle bars etc all in order. My assumption (dangerous) would be that the fork would only need cutting to ”slam” it would fit by default with a generous but not excessive set of spacers. I can see certain preferences in this thread 😎. If I get fit and fast again I'll consider that.

    The risk now is that I rush it due to the excitement and break something in the process.


    cutting the fork is not hard, a carbon blade for a junior hacksaw helps. I would be generous at first and leave room under and over the stem then reduce later.

    I'm planning on slamming mine, more or less, as I do on all my bikes. I hate bikes with 50mm of spacers under the stem but there you go.

    If you fit the headset yourself, don't use a hammer ! :-)
    BASI Nordic Ski Instructor
    Instagramme
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,969
    davidof said:



    cutting the fork is not hard, a carbon blade for a junior hacksaw helps. I would be generous at first and leave room under and over the stem then reduce later.

    Top tip. Arrange some kind of clamp that keeps the fork steady, and the tip part, the blade square. You don't want to be cutting at an angle.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Get fork

    Put old stem on at height where you want to cut

    Cut along edge of stem

    Sorted

    Just do it with the for in the bike if you want

    Really really simple tbh.
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    Is there a way to tell if the fork steerer tube is made from carbon or aluminium. Some carbon forks have Alu steerer ?

    The px fork I am assured is carbon, hence a bung rather than a star nut.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Alu one will be silver and metal, carbon will be black and carbon.

    Alu one will taste, sound and donk things like metal, carbon the same but carboney.

    Tbh, you don't even need a "carbon specific" blade - any high TPI new blade will do.

    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • Munsford0
    Munsford0 Posts: 667
    Correct; I chop carbon with whatever is in the hacksaw. Lot easier than cutting an alu steerer
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Rich_T_ said:


    Thanks I've got steerer bung, stem, handle bars etc all in order. My assumption (dangerous) would be that the fork would only need cutting to ”slam” it would fit by default with a generous but not excessive set of spacers. I can see certain preferences in this thread 😎. If I get fit and fast again I'll consider that.

    The risk now is that I rush it due to the excitement and break something in the process.

    You'll definitely need to cut something from the fork or you'll need a dangerous and ridiculous looking amount of spacers above and/or below the stem to be able to set the headset preload. By all means be conservative at first until you dial in the fit that you want, but you don't really want to ride about with a massive stack.

    It's definitely a carbon steerer tube, which is fairly easy to splinter if you just cut straight through in one go. Putting electrical tape around the cut area can help in this regard, but I'd recommend rotating the fork around as you cut so you've got a pilot line all the way around. Just take your time or get LBS to do it.

    The fork needs to be cut so that the top of the bung is 3-4 mm below the top cap to allow the top cap to compress the bearings properly. You can put a mark on the fork using the top of the stem as a guide and then cut 3-4 mm below that.

    I'd also recommend that you use frame protection stickers where the cables touch as the brushed finish picks up marks very easily.
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    MattFalle said:

    Alu one will be silver and metal, carbon will be black and carbon.

    Alu one will taste, sound and donk things like metal, carbon the same but carboney.

    Tbh, you don't even need a "carbon specific" blade - any high TPI new blade will do.

    I think someone may have put a star nut in a carbon fork 🤣 not me by the way
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    No biggie tbh - if its fine now it'll be fine forever.

    Had ones in carbon forks for years with no dramas - not perfect but not the catastrophuck disaster that modern cycling lore prevails it to be.

    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • davidof
    davidof Posts: 3,095
    Spitty built up to an overall weight of 8.2kg incl. pedals and bottle cages.
    BASI Nordic Ski Instructor
    Instagramme
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Piccies please!
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • davidof
    davidof Posts: 3,095
    edited June 2022
    Gears need fine tuning and I was missing a barrel adjuster thingy on one side (ordered the Jagwire adjusters and there is only one in a packet, doh!)





    Seat post is 400 mm long, I'm thinking of cutting a bit off but it won't change the weight.

    Will change the bar tape for black once I'm satisfied with the gears.
    BASI Nordic Ski Instructor
    Instagramme
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    I believe... The barrel adjuster should already be on the rear derailleur and the in line adjuster would only be required for front derailleur.
    I'm still piecing bits together I'll be hopefully building this week .. need the fork cut and headset pressed.
    😎


  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,969
    Rich_T_ said:

    I believe... The barrel adjuster should already be on the rear derailleur and the in line adjuster would only be required for front derailleur.
    I'm still piecing bits together I'll be hopefully building this week .. need the fork cut and headset pressed.
    😎


    You don't *need* a barrel adjuster for the rear derailleur but you do need something to hold the cable in place. May as well be a barrel adjuster for on the move fettling. 😉
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    davidof said:

    Gears need fine tuning and I was missing a barrel adjuster thingy on one side (ordered the Jagwire adjusters and there is only one in a packet, doh!)





    Seat post is 400 mm long, I'm thinking of cutting a bit off but it won't change the weight.

    Will change the bar tape for black once I'm satisfied with the gears.

    Looking good dude!
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • davidof
    davidof Posts: 3,095
    pblakeney said:

    Rich_T_ said:

    I believe... The barrel adjuster should already be on the rear derailleur and the in line adjuster would only be required for front derailleur.
    I'm still piecing bits together I'll be hopefully building this week .. need the fork cut and headset pressed.
    😎


    You don't *need* a barrel adjuster for the rear derailleur but you do need something to hold the cable in place. May as well be a barrel adjuster for on the move fettling. 😉
    yes, I'm not sold on a barrel adjuster but do you get just plain thnigs to hold the cable in place? and what would they be called?
    BASI Nordic Ski Instructor
    Instagramme
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,969
    davidof said:

    pblakeney said:

    Rich_T_ said:

    I believe... The barrel adjuster should already be on the rear derailleur and the in line adjuster would only be required for front derailleur.
    I'm still piecing bits together I'll be hopefully building this week .. need the fork cut and headset pressed.
    😎


    You don't *need* a barrel adjuster for the rear derailleur but you do need something to hold the cable in place. May as well be a barrel adjuster for on the move fettling. 😉
    yes, I'm not sold on a barrel adjuster but do you get just plain thnigs to hold the cable in place? and what would they be called?
    Fair question but I do not know the answer as I like the convenience of the barrel adjuster,
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    edited June 2022
    Outer housing ferrule ?

    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lifeline-essential-gear-cable-set-shimanosram

    You get "everything" in the pack like
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    So, what you are saying is, instead of cutting the outer housing to fit the barrel adjusters. Put them on the cable where it enters the guides on the frame instead of the ferrules?
    Not sure any of this made sense 😃 thanks
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,969
    That does make sense. Problem is that unless you are very skilled/lucky you will need a barrel adjuster for the front. Putting one on for the rear not only balances the appearance, it adds functionality.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.
  • feelgoodlost
    feelgoodlost Posts: 330
    Just buy some of these? They don't *need* to be the Selcof ones... https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/GXTOKCNC/token-tk690-cnc-alloy-cable-adjusters-(pair)
    https://www.strava.com/athletes/442763
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    feelgoodlost said:

    Just buy some of these? They don't *need* to be the Selcof ones... https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/GXTOKCNC/token-tk690-cnc-alloy-cable-adjusters-(pair)

    Thanks, I'd bought in line adjusters for a previous job.

    I didn't realise for external routing it's much easier but they are different adjusters. I'm getting part 1 of the build today. Headset and fork fitted.
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FTPXTIX1/planet-x-spitfire-titanium-road-frameset#FTPXTIX1


    Er.... 500 quid
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24



    Not the photos I was hoping to share, everything going well until.... The bit that sits in the Frame and fork to attach brakes (Shimano)

    Could anyone help point me in the right direction please. Assume the rear is too big as per photo.

    The other for seems to have a thread within the fork I can't see. The new px fork didn't have a thread.

    I'm not sure what I need to search for if anyone could help please.

    Thanks

  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Nutty thing is too long. Either order a new one or pop to LBS and they will undoubredly have a spare in a box in the workshop.

    How do you mean a thread within the fork? Are you not using the PX fork?
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • Rich_T_
    Rich_T_ Posts: 24
    Think I'll pop to the shop I think they may be called brake bolts😃
    I was planning to reuse whatever was in my old fork in the new one. But the old fork seems to have the thread in the fork and is not removable.
    I am using The px fork.

    It's looking smoking already, who needs brakes anyway
  • MattFalle
    MattFalle Posts: 11,644
    Brakes are for cowards
    .
    The camera down the willy isn't anything like as bad as it sounds.
  • pblakeney
    pblakeney Posts: 26,969
    Probably a silly question but are you sure that is not a front brake assembly in the rear? Would explain the length of the screw.
    The above may be fact, or fiction, I may be serious, I may be jesting.
    I am not sure. You have no chance.
    Veronese68 wrote:
    PB is the most sensible person on here.

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