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Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?



  • It looks pretty shot
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • Stans race sealant cant be reliably inject through the valve. getting into the tyres, therefore, equals mess. Its life span is short and it forms stanimals therefore the tyre has to be cleaned out.

    Stans not tubes sealant is useless for high pressure applications. it seals at 30 psi ie MTB pressures well. It lets go randomly at higher pressures. -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Stans race sealant cant be reliably inject through the valve. getting into the tyres, therefore, equals mess. Its life span is short and it forms stanimals therefore the tyre has to be cleaned out.

    Stans not tubes sealant is useless for high pressure applications. it seals at 30 psi ie MTB pressures well. It lets go randomly at higher pressures.

    I ordered some caffelatex? In the end. It's for low pressure 650b tyres anyway
  • Now do I need a birzman pump canister thing??

    Or...... you could google coke bottle tubeless.
  • Cheers, from my Google search it seems stans no tubes race sealant is pretty highly rated, if more expensive. I'd rather go nuclear in my first attempt rather than experiment with cheaper but maybe rubbish ones tbh.

    Now do I need a birzman pump canister thing?? ... -QQAvD_BwE

    I have an airshot I could sell... PM me if interested
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    After changing the tires I noticed that when inflating the front one the needle of the floor pump was going backwards with each stroke. This seems to be a good indicator of when to change the valve as I had air loss which wasn't visible.
    Used some lifeline ones and it works now, the other one was Mavic that came with the wheels and is recommended to change after a year (have been using them for almost half a year). I am not sure if it needed to be replaced or if cleaning it up would fix it so just replaced it for now.

    About the sealant, caffelatex seems to be drying within a month on 30C average temps, bontrager was still liquid after 3 months or so. Not sure which is better for punctures though.
  • How quickly the sealant dries will also depend on how porous the tyres are and how much sealant you put in. If the tyre requires alot of sealing well that a good chunk of your sealant gone.

    The valve core just needed to be removed and cleaned up.

    It's not 30degrees niw -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    I had put 40ml caffelatex, dried within a month as I said. It is 30c where I live/ride.
    Bontrager I used 20ml and it didn't dry after 3 months or so. When I say dry I mean it hasn't evaporated but it sticks to the tire and there is no liquid so it could still work, not sure?
  • It occurred to me that I hadn't topped up my sealant in about 3-months which got me thinking about the best practice for this.

    I run IRC roadlites with Cafelatex sealant. Can anyone tell me the following:

    How often should I top it up and by how much?
    When I top up, should I remove the tyres and clean out the old dried up sealant?

    Thanks y'all
  • You don't have to remove the tyre. There is no latex to clean up with artificial latex sealants.

    Just inject more every three months. If you carry tyre worms and puncture without sealant then they will get you out of trouble. -wheel building and other stuff.
  • arseyarsey Posts: 171
    My caffelatex does leave dried on sealant on the inside of the tyre. But when I top it up (30-40ml per tyre) I don't remove the old stuff.

    Canyon Ultimate CF Disc
    Vitus Energie Disc
  • timothywtimothyw Posts: 2,482
    Yeah, caffelatex definitely leaves a bit of residue, but there is absolutely no need to clean it when topping up sealant - it'd take an hour (or more depending on how much of a struggle you then have reseating tire...) and achieve very little.
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    Does it work if you puncture though? or does it have to be liquid?
    Should have tried with my old tire.
  • I deffo get dried residue. Thanks for the input.
  • I guess they are too new maybe but anyone any experience with the Michelin Power Gravel TLR tyres.

    Looking for something similar to the G-one speeds which are hard to get hold of without paying a fortune.
  • zefs wrote:
    Does it work if you puncture though? or does it have to be liquid?
    Should have tried with my old tire.
    Needs to be liquid, the tyre will stay inflated when it's dried but when you have a puncture it goes down as per a normal tubed setup.

    I have found that the sealant lasts 2 months at my mileage of around 6-800 miles per month in the road bike with 40ml cafelatex in the IRC roadlite 25mm. I found this out when I got a small sidewall cut last weekend and no liquid there.
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    I found out the hard way, 250km in with the new tire and 40ml Caffelatex on Yksion UST pro it didn't seal a small puncture.
    The sealant is 15 days old, I saw it bubbling but didn't seal so I guess it has dried already which makes me think this sealant doesn't work well so will be switching to Bontrager which seems to last for months for me.

    I used a small worm and pumped up to about 70psi and continued my ride, which is great. Having worms and a good pump and you can keep riding without having to head back home. Since I will be swapping sealant I will also test if you can make the UST tires seal with a tube and a pump.
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    So, it seems the worm by itself has pressure loss over night. I used the small Genuine Innovation ones, probably using glue before applying the worm might give better results but it's still a good solution until you get home.

    The Caffelatex had indeed dried out and I replaced it with Bontrager. Before doing that I tried to see if the UST tires would seal with a mini pump and a tube, I was able to get 1 "click" and 85 psi with my mini pump so I am guessing with a longer pump (would recommend one with hose to not damage the valves for tubeless) it could be doable but for longer rides if you want to also carry a tube a co2 canister would work better.

    Also added a Parktool tube patch after cleaning the sealant, last time it worked fine but want to see if the liquid sealant damages it or if it wears after some time.
  • bobonesbobones Posts: 1,029
    What's the secret to preventing the worms from pushing back out of the repair due to air pressure? Mine always manage to work their way out once the pressure gets over 80 psi so they are never a permanent repair option for me.
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    I think adding glue that comes with those kits to them and maybe using longer ones could help? Haven't tried yet. The small one I used didn't get removed at 100 psi, but I guess it depends on the size of puncture/worm.
  • arseyarsey Posts: 171
    Did the half ironman at Weymouth on the weekend on my IRC Roadlites with Caffelatex. So many people fixing punctures at the side of the road due to the horrific conditions and it was only when I got my bike back at the end of the day that I saw the sealant worked! Very pleased with that.

    Canyon Ultimate CF Disc
    Vitus Energie Disc
  • bobonesbobones Posts: 1,029
    Yes, it's very pleasing when you only notice that you'd punctured after the ride is finished!
  • antlaffantlaff Posts: 695
    looking recommendations ....currently using 30mm mavic allroad on mavic allroad rims...going through them lik crazy...what is harder wearing??
  • Use a bigger worms bobone and zef, if the small ones cant seal the hole properly. the small GI worms can push out of a big hole. That why the kit I bring in has 1.5mm and 3.5mm width worms in it. you need both or it like going out without an inner tube.

    Zef I have had the same problem with the yskion ust tyres and caffe latex. The sealant lasts more than 2 weeks though. I had a puncture on monday and there was liquid sealant in the tyre but it did not seal. It may be the tyre. I just plugged it and carried on. The same sealant works fine with IRC tyres.

    Effetto mariposa have good guidance on their website about how to stop the sealant drying out prematurely. -wheel building and other stuff.
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    I see, that's weird. Do you repair the tire with patches from the inside or do the worms work for the life of the tire?
  • Normally worms are permenant reapur. My rear Mavic yskion has one small worm in the sidewall and another in the main tread and a fat one in the main tread.
    It has to be a pretty big hole for a big worm not to be a long term fix. -wheel building and other stuff.
  • OK, here's a thing. I've been running road tubeless for well over a year. Started with Schwalbe pro1 and now run IRC Roadlites on my winter bike. These are on Prime wheels with Alexrims (tubeless ready)

    Not had any issues at all apart from when I periodically deflate them to add more sealant they unseat and pop off the rim. On my Giant wheels, they stay fixed on the rim when I deflate which I believe is normal. Should I be worried about the tyres unseating when fully deflated? Should I keep adding rimtape to tighten the tyre? The tyre is not at all hard to fit which I think could be a problem?
  • zefszefs Posts: 484
    More rimtape will not make a none optimal combo work. I would recommend using a different tire that stays seated when deflated for both safety and on road repairs.

    That along with good sealant, hose pump and tubeless plugs and you are set.
  • cyclecliniccycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Prime wheels using the Alex cxd rim I think it's called are not tubeless compatible in my book.

    Giant wheels are though. -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Hmmm, says Tubeless ready on the rims which is why I bought them. I've tried the schwalbe ones on these rims and they pop off the same when deflated. I feel deflated!
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