Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?

1575860626378

Comments

  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Running 23c IRC Roadlites here, around 80 front and 90 back.
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • Joe Totale wrote:
    I'm running 28's at 65 on the front and 70 at the back. Lovely comfy ride and I don't really feel there's any loss of speed.
    Someone I know is currently running 28's at 55/60 and he's no slouch.

    I use the original freebie FastFitnessTips "Sheets" spreadsheet for Google Docs as a starting point for any tyres. You simply enter the real world tyre width; total weight of everything going on ride; estimate of how much % weight is taken by the front wheel (I use 40% for my Cube, but given the more upright position, it could be easily ~35% or less when I'm in the saddle, I cannot be faffed with using a set of scales under each wheel to see).

    Me ~78Kg
    Cycling kit inc. shoes ~2Kg
    Cube ~8.5Kg (after new wheel, tyres, latex tubes upgrade)
    Water bidons ~800-2900g (upto three bottles totalling 2.7 litres)
    Misc. (repair kit; food; mobile) ~500-1000g)
    Total max weight ~92.4Kg

    Continental 700x28 tyres (real world ~31mm wide)

    % front wheel load ~40%

    FFT calculator suggests 52.7/79.9 PSI for "mixed" quality road (very applicable to western South Downs cat3/4s).

    On a power training ride, I will get out of the saddle for steeper sections, which makes the front Conti feel a bit too squishy if less than ~75PSI. Will drop to ~70PSI if roads are damp and/or I'm not planning to attack hills out of saddle.
    Still experimenting with rear wheel, feels a bit too squishy if less than ~82PSI, which I use if the roads are damp. In the dry, closer to ~87PSI.

    YMMV
    ================
    2020 Voodoo Marasa
    2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
    2016 Voodoo Wazoo
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    why are people affriad to experiemnt with pressure. why do people need to be told/advised on pressures, just experiement till you find what works. expoerience will then tell guide for your next tyres. i really dont get it.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • That feels a bit squidgy, put some more air in
    That feels a bit skittish, let a bit of air out
    I'm sorry you don't believe in miracles
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Exactly, it's not hard is it.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • drlodge
    drlodge Posts: 4,826
    Exactly, it's not hard is it.

    It is if you pump them up to 120 psi :lol:
    WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
    Find me on Strava
  • hazy_day
    hazy_day Posts: 84
    Anyone have any views experience on these. Vredestein Fortezza TL-Ready folding tire-Black-700x25
    €34.90
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    RRP is 64.95 euro but being sold for 35 euro. either they are crap and that can only be sold at half price or verdestein have a brilliant tyre that no one wants and they have made to many so they are sold at half price. Either this or the retailer has made a pricing mistake. Really i have no idea what they are like except they are not brought into the u.k and there is hardly any one selling them in the E.U
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,698
    See also Hutchinson *grumble grumble*
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • indyp
    indyp Posts: 735
    Good timing re tyre pressure as I've just had first ride after setting up tubeless. Ive used Schwalbe Pro One 25mm inflated to 80 psi. I may experiment with 70 but weighing around 94 kg probably not suitable.
    Think I've overdone it with sealant though as I've stuck 80ml in each tyre! I went with what was suggested on the bottle of stuff fom CRC. Oh well, can't see it causing any problems?
    I was surprised how straight forward setting them up was but maybe I got lucky. This thread has been a great help to find out which way to go about it. I used Stans tape and valves from CRC, and apart from tyres being a bitch to fit on the rim they went up with only a track pump. I had to inflate them over recommend psi but they popped on rims fine although think I'll get some co2 cartridges in for future.
    As for the ride, there was a noticeable difference in comfort compared to GP4000s with tubes which is good. I didn't notice them as being faster rolling but then contis have always been great for that I've found. Maybe I should inflate them a bit to 90 psi to find out.
  • ugo.santalucia
    ugo.santalucia Posts: 28,312
    removed the last tubeless tyre, to find out it had gone dry... the valve retaining ring was seized on the thread so I had to hammer the valve out form the inside of the rim...

    Right, now I am back on clinchers on both bikes... adventure over for now
    left the forum March 2023
  • mamil314
    mamil314 Posts: 1,103
    hazy day wrote:
    Anyone have any views experience on these. Vredestein Fortezza TL-Ready folding tire-Black-700x25
    €34.90

    The clincher Fortezza are lightweight, durable, well grippy, but they are reluctant to roll fast. Maybe TL version remedies this? Take one for the team and let us know ^ ^
  • moonshine
    moonshine Posts: 1,021
    Orlok wrote:
    so you need....

    * 44mm tubeless valves...Schwalbe.!
    * tubeless tape? (what brand, length and width) ......Schwalbe tubeless tape 23mm and you need only one layer.!
    * best sealant? (i've normally used Stans on the MTB, but reading on here seems to recommend Orange Seal) .....Schwalbe Doc Blue.!
    * tyres - ......Schwalbe Pro One 25mm
    Well i tried the Schwalbe combination of rim tapes, valves and 28mm pro One tyres on my factory spec Mavic Askium Allroad disk wheels that came with my Cervelo C3 and am pleased to report they work as a tubeless setup with ease. Pumped up with a track pump to 80 psi with ease. With minimal air leakage from the bead even with no sealant. A little bit of keakage from the rim join . I added 50ml of sealant and reinflated to 60 psi and no loss overnight . Been for a ride today and no problems whatsowver.
    Well pleased!
  • altruido
    altruido Posts: 2
    edited October 2018
    At a high price, how fast do they fight?


    https://stylufka.pl/wlosy-do-ramion-omb ... ie-trendy/
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    You should use anti size on the stem collar or remove them and refit from time to time. Mild loctite should work too. The collars on my commutator bike which have no prep on them and I never wash that bike come undone with pillars when I need them too or they have done so far.

    Also ammonia based sealants do cause corrosion and seize things that should not seize.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Also ammonia based sealants do cause corrosion and seize things that should not seize.

    I’ve done over 3000 miles on Pro One’s and NEVER had a puncture. I’m going to fit a new tyre to another rim and I’ve run out of Orange seal, thus I need to buy some more sealant.

    There are now new sealants like Muc-Off and Finishline, some of which do not contain latex or ammonia but are they any good on a road bike?

    I’m looking for recommendations as to which sealant to buy next as I don’t even know if Orange Seal is any good because I’ve never has a puncture for it to seal and now I’ve posted that on-line I’ll have one on the next ride.
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Finish line is useless. well not useless just not very good. it has trouble sleaing even small holes at high pressures. it does a bit better at lower pressures.

    A hint what ever sealant you buy for road tubeless should be artifical latex/ammonia free. I dont know if the muc off selant is in that catagory. Given the description is just like the OKO sealant which is cheaper. by the way I suspect the muc off sealant is a variation on the standard formulation made by OKO in the U.K. This sealant is the kind I like. Caffe latex is too.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,698
    Just for my musings...

    Did anyone try Hutch (boo!) Sectors 28 and ProOne 28s? Are they a similar size on a relativly conservative rim? i.e. none of this new fangled wide rim nonsense that the youth use*

    *joke
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    got the elusive Good year Eagle 28mm road tyres today. weight 346g each which 30g over weight. Thats a similar weight to the IRC formula Pro X guard 28mm tyre so probably they will last long and maybe be a puncture resistant. I best kill of those mavic tyres then quickly.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • doolie
    doolie Posts: 42
    Newbie to tubeless and was surprised at just how easy it was to setup.

    Prime Race Wheels
    Schwalbe G-One 35mm (pbk @£31.59ea)
    Effetto Mariposa Caffelatex

    Rim was pre-taped and looked seated ok. Installed the valve, popped the tyre on one side and added some sealant. Tyre went on without levers and then pumped up with a track pump. Took a few quick pumps to get it all to take and the tyre was up. Little sealant leakage around the rim but I'm guessing this is normal initially?

    Was sort of expecting that the track pump wouldn't get the tyre to seat easily, but no problems. I'm a few rides in now on my CX/cum winter bike and zero issues. Coming from someone who has 23mm tyres on my other bikes, as you can imagine, ride quality is a revelation.

    edit - I knew there was a point to my post that i'd missed....... What do you all generally take with you on longer rides for emergency repairs to punctures where the sealant doesn't do the job? I'm current taking an inner tube and pump. Overkill? Something smaller/better/easier?
    PlanetX RT-57
    Orbea Orca
    Felt DA
    GT Grade
  • zefs
    zefs Posts: 484
    On my setup (Mavic UST) there was no sealant visible from the sidewalls after installation. Did you add the sealant through valve or directly in the tire?

    I take a mini pump, tube (sometimes), tube patches (they work for tires) and tubeless worms with the small tool (Genuine Innovations one, because it's compact).
  • doolie
    doolie Posts: 42
    zefs wrote:
    On my setup (Mavic UST) there was no sealant visible from the sidewalls after installation. Did you add the sealant through valve or directly in the tire?

    I take a mini pump, tube (sometimes), tube patches (they work for tires) and tubeless worms with the small tool (Genuine Innovations one, because it's compact).

    Thanks, that's useful info. Hadn't considered tubeless worms (although I'd read them mentioned), I'll get some ordered.

    Leakage was minimal and only whilst the bead was settling into the rim, I'm probably overstating it. Nothing since.
    PlanetX RT-57
    Orbea Orca
    Felt DA
    GT Grade
  • andrew 7
    andrew 7 Posts: 133
    Apologies if this has been asked before - what is the height of 28mm Schwalbe pro one fitted to a 19c rim ?
    clearance is ok width wise but a bit tight under the brake bridge, do they come up smaller than 28mm gp4000's ?
    thanks
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    about the same size.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • andrew 7
    andrew 7 Posts: 133
    Thanks 25mm it is then
  • munkster
    munkster Posts: 819
    What is the current suggestion for a good winter tubeless tyre? Been on Hutchinson Intensives the last couple of years and have coped with grip levels that people seem to dislike but feel they cut up a bit more readily than I’d like. Thanks in advance for any recs.
  • ddraver
    ddraver Posts: 26,698
    The hive mind will say IRC

    However, cos reasons, I ve switched to the Pirelli P-Zero tyre which I really like so I'm hoping their new Cinturo tyre will be the Schwalbe Durano Tubeless I ve been waiting for for 5 years or so...

    They don't seem to be available yet though.
    We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
    - @ddraver
  • I’ve used the IRC roadlite tyre from the recommendation here for my winter bike. I have to say,they’ve been more durable than the schwalbe pro ones I have on the summer bike which seem very susceptible to glass cuts. The IRCs hardly have a mark in them and the tread depth is thicker.
  • iso2000
    iso2000 Posts: 28
    munkster wrote:
    What is the current suggestion for a good winter tubeless tyre? Been on Hutchinson Intensives the last couple of years and have coped with grip levels that people seem to dislike but feel they cut up a bit more readily than I’d like. Thanks in advance for any recs.
    Used a Schwalbe G One speed for the last two winters. Fast, comfortable, no punctures or cuts. 30mm though.
  • munkster
    munkster Posts: 819
    Yeah 30mm no good for me, need 25mm. Have ridden Schwalbe Ones, Hutchinson Fusions (most flavours), Intensives, IRC Roadlites and Formula Pro RBCCs. So yeah, have tried a few types ;-)

    Maybe I should give the IRC Formula Pro X-guard a whirl.