Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?
Comments
-
thanks for the advice. hope the bead will have stretched a little as it seemed like it would be impossible to unhook when it first seated.Make sure you have the valve stem at the base when you do.
why is this? I found that mounting Sector/sl25 worked fine with one wheel, and less well with the other
(cant remember where the valve was) one sealed completely and didn't deflate overnight - the other didn't - eventually found that the leak was from the area surrounding the valve. Used Fluid and all is well.
lose about 10psi per week. run inflate them to 85-90 psi and reinflate every 3-4 weeks.
Thinking of getting some S-One 30mm if they are available by start of winter, but i also fancy trying the 26 Sector that was announced months ago (but there is no sign of.)0 -
Make sure you have the valve stem at the base when you do.
why is this?
No idea....We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
Considering 28mm Ones or Hutch Sectors - hopefully to replace my boring commuter tyres (Gatorskins) and nice day tyres (Ultremo ZX)
As my riding often ends up a bit 'Sustrans', I'm a bit wary of reports that the Ones cut up a bit. Is this a problem (other than cosmetically?) The Sectors seem to be the obvious choice, but they don't seem to have as many fans as the Ones. Anyone tried both?
Or maybe I should just wait for the S-One...0 -
Considering 28mm Ones or Hutch Sectors - hopefully to replace my boring commuter tyres (Gatorskins) and nice day tyres (Ultremo ZX)
As my riding often ends up a bit 'Sustrans', I'm a bit wary of reports that the Ones cut up a bit. Is this a problem (other than cosmetically?) The Sectors seem to be the obvious choice, but they don't seem to have as many fans as the Ones. Anyone tried both?
Or maybe I should just wait for the S-One...
I have Ones that have done about 2000 miles, a fair amount of cuts in the rear tyre but only two that resulted in a puncture (at about 1900 miles in and both times sealant did its job). A lot of cyclepath riding and some bridleways too.0 -
Thanks,
I'm inclined to get the Ones and not worry about about it.0 -
Thanks,
I'm inclined to get the Ones and not worry about about it.
The secteurs are significantly more robust tyres, if that's what you are afterleft the forum March 20230 -
I'm going to get something slightly more hardy for the Ritchey. So the Ones have to go. 28c ones.
I bust one this morning, puncture too big to seal right in the middle. Will be putting the pair and valves etc in the classifieds later.My blog: http://www.roubaixcycling.cc (kit reviews and other musings)
https://twitter.com/roubaixcc
Facebook? No. Just say no.0 -
There's an interesting review of the Pro One Tubeless here:
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-pro-one-tubeless-20160 -
I have Ones that have done about 2000 miles, a fair amount of cuts in the rear tyre but only two that resulted in a puncture (at about 1900 miles in and both times sealant did its job). A lot of cyclepath riding and some bridleways too.
I rode my rear Ultremo (forerunner of the One) down to the canvas in about 4000km. Have swapped a 23mm Ultremo for a 25mm One on the rear. Front tire still going strong.
https://youtu.be/UkEB2sPae3sBASI Nordic Ski Instructor
Instagramme0 -
Getting nervous...
I have a set of Hunt 4 seaons disc wheels and they put my 28mm Ones' on sealant also installed. Mounted them on the bike yesterday in anticipation of a 24 H London to Paris on Saturday followed by a week in the Alps. They are lovely especially at 80psi.Touch wood the sealant will deal with any punctures. But just in case, what should i take? spare inner just in case? tyre levers? sealant? Its the Alps i am most worried about. A tyre boot might be a good idea0 -
They're perfect for the alps. If you puncture going downhill, they'll probably deflate slowly even if they don't seal - with a regular clincher puncture being much more dramatic and risky. Remember, the air will be escaping out of the small hole in the tyre. With a tube blowing, it can tear like a balloon and deflate in a near instant.
I took a spare tube and levers with me just in case (non-sealing punctures are rare on tubeless). And had more sealant back at the chalet.0 -
They're perfect for the alps. If you puncture going downhill, they'll probably deflate slowly even if they don't seal - with a regular clincher puncture being much more dramatic and risky. Remember, the air will be escaping out of the small hole in the tyre. With a tube blowing, it can tear like a balloon and deflate in a near instant.
I took a spare tube and levers with me just in case (non-sealing punctures are rare on tubeless). And had more sealant back at the chalet.
Ta, will do the same.0 -
Am looking to put some 25mm tubeless on my winter bike (thinking ahead) - the Hutchinson Sectors looks pretty good but don't think my frame will take 28mm tyres. Any other recommendations for a durable road tubeless tyre in 25mm? I've got the Schwalbe Ones on my summer bike but don't get the feeling they're going to be a good winter tyre, might be wrong. Anyone got any intel? Cheers!0
-
There's an interesting review of the Pro One Tubeless here:
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-pro-one-tubeless-2016
Do you know where you can buy them? Don't seem to be for sale anywhere here or abroad that I can see0 -
There's an interesting review of the Pro One Tubeless here:
http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/road-bike-reviews/schwalbe-pro-one-tubeless-2016
Nicely confirms what we all know :PWe're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
Slowish London to Paris over the weekend in pretty grotty conditions sunday. Persistent rain and wind. The slowness wasn't down to the Ones. I perceive them to be noticeably more comfortable than the stock Giant clinchers they replaced but then they are 28 rather than 25's. Ran then at 85 and 90 and suspect should have gone a bit softer. Got a puncture when stopped at a bus shelter after riding colleague began to shake from the cold and wet. Broken glass everywhere. Heart began to sink as i looked at him then the tyre, but, quickly span it to get the sealant to the hole and voila! Hole sealed, bit of air and we were off. Crisis averted.0
-
... but, quickly span it to get the sealant to the hole and voila! Hole sealed, bit of air and we were off. Crisis averted.
Another convert...
left the forum March 20230 -
Just recounted the story to guy in my local bike shop. He has the Ones' and no punctures in 3k miles of commuting so far. A rep brought in a set of the pro version for him to try. Same commute as he uses the Ones' but 2 punctures within 300 miles of use the latter more of a rip that required a small boot makes him wary of using them except at weekends on country runs. Luck plays a huge part of course.0
-
Just recounted the story to guy in my local bike shop. He has the Ones' and no punctures in 3k miles of commuting so far. A rep brought in a set of the pro version for him to try. Same commute as he uses the Ones' but 2 punctures within 300 miles of use the latter more of a rip that required a small boot makes him wary of using them except at weekends on country runs. Luck plays a huge part of course.
If it says PRO, it's quite clearly not a commuting tyre. Much lighter product, much easier to damageleft the forum March 20230 -
Just put some hutchinson sectors on. I've got Pacenti SL23 rims (mk1) and they went on a darn sight easier than my open paves did. I put two layers of tape on the rim, and 40ml of sealant in the tyre. I'm still getting bubbling of sealant from the bead though (after less than a day). Hutchinson say leave it for 24hrs, but am I incorrect in thinking that technically you should be able to run without sealant (not that I would)? The need to seal the beads of the tyre suggest this isn't the case.Shand Skinnymalinky
Argon 18 Radon0 -
Just put some hutchinson sectors on. I've got Pacenti SL23 rims (mk1) and they went on a darn sight easier than my open paves did. I put two layers of tape on the rim, and 40ml of sealant in the tyre. I'm still getting bubbling of sealant from the bead though (after less than a day). Hutchinson say leave it for 24hrs, but am I incorrect in thinking that technically you should be able to run without sealant (not that I would)? The need to seal the beads of the tyre suggest this isn't the case.
Depends... some tyres/rims seal without latex, some do require latex. However, once you put the sealant in and you spin the wheels, the bubbling should stop pretty much immediately. Looks like there is something wrong there...left the forum March 20230 -
Depends... some tyres/rims seal without latex, some do require latex. However, once you put the sealant in and you spin the wheels, the bubbling should stop pretty much immediately. Looks like there is something wrong there...
I pumped it up with a track pump and got the "snap" sound as it seated on the rim. When I let the air out to put the sealant in, I noticed the bead slumped back towards the centre of the rim a little bit. The drop in pressure is getting less and less as the day wears on.
Another thing I noticed was that there was quite a bit of flashing on the bead, where the tyre has been taken out of the mould. Could be a possible source of leakage.
It's leaking about 5-10 psi over a couple of hours (from 100 psi)Shand Skinnymalinky
Argon 18 Radon0 -
Depends... some tyres/rims seal without latex, some do require latex. However, once you put the sealant in and you spin the wheels, the bubbling should stop pretty much immediately. Looks like there is something wrong there...
I pumped it up with a track pump and got the "snap" sound as it seated on the rim. When I let the air out to put the sealant in, I noticed the bead slumped back towards the centre of the rim a little bit. The drop in pressure is getting less and less as the day wears on.
Another thing I noticed was that there was quite a bit of flashing on the bead, where the tyre has been taken out of the mould. Could be a possible source of leakage.
It's leaking about 5-10 psi over a couple of hours (from 100 psi)
You should run those at 75 PSIleft the forum March 20230 -
You should run those at 75 PSI
Yeah, the 100psi is only a temporary measure while I wait for it to seal (if it ever does). Hutchinson actually recommend 80-101psi for my weight range, which I thought surprising.Shand Skinnymalinky
Argon 18 Radon0 -
Depends... some tyres/rims seal without latex, some do require latex. However, once you put the sealant in and you spin the wheels, the bubbling should stop pretty much immediately. Looks like there is something wrong there...
I pumped it up with a track pump and got the "snap" sound as it seated on the rim. When I let the air out to put the sealant in, I noticed the bead slumped back towards the centre of the rim a little bit. The drop in pressure is getting less and less as the day wears on.
Another thing I noticed was that there was quite a bit of flashing on the bead, where the tyre has been taken out of the mould. Could be a possible source of leakage.
It's leaking about 5-10 psi over a couple of hours (from 100 psi)
Is that without the sealant? I had a similar issue - some rims don't seem to want to keep hold of the seated bead once the air is let out. For me, it was the rim ledge was narrower on the asymmetric rear drive-side.
You just need to get the sealant in the tyre before you start trying to pump the tyre up.0 -
Depends... some tyres/rims seal without latex, some do require latex. However, once you put the sealant in and you spin the wheels, the bubbling should stop pretty much immediately. Looks like there is something wrong there...
I pumped it up with a track pump and got the "snap" sound as it seated on the rim. When I let the air out to put the sealant in, I noticed the bead slumped back towards the centre of the rim a little bit. The drop in pressure is getting less and less as the day wears on.
Another thing I noticed was that there was quite a bit of flashing on the bead, where the tyre has been taken out of the mould. Could be a possible source of leakage.
It's leaking about 5-10 psi over a couple of hours (from 100 psi)
Is that without the sealant? I had a similar issue - some rims don't seem to want to keep hold of the seated bead once the air is let out. For me, it was the rim ledge was narrower on the asymmetric rear drive-side.
You just need to get the sealant in the tyre before you start trying to pump the tyre up.
I got the tyre up fine, without and with the sealant. I just noticed that the bead sprung back a bit when I deflated it to put the sealant in. I assumed the tyre would stay in place with the tightness of the bead and all. The pacenti rims don't have an inner ridge on the shoulder that holds the bead, that I think I've seen on other tubeless rims (not that this would help much with tape over the top of it).
Just taken a look, and there is still a bit of sealant foamy-ness coming from the bead. I'll give it a full 24hrs before declaring a problem.Shand Skinnymalinky
Argon 18 Radon0 -
What sealant did you use?0
-
Okay, so bitten the bullet and have a pair of Sector 28s coming, to fit to my Pacenti SL23s.
Anyone want to recommend valves and sealant? Is it Stans all the way?
0
