Road tubeless tyres, where and how much?
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[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19683087#p19683087]Arthur Scrimshaw[/url] wrote:Managed to convert the Voyager Hyper 37 to tubeless. The problem was to sit them on the ramps of the rim, as they are loose fit and there was no way of pumping them up. So I have used the inner tube technique... once the tyre is seated, you only unseat one side to remove the inner tube, fit a valve and inflate... much easier... now let's see if it holds air once sealed...
I was warned off converting these very same tyres to tubeless on another forum, I was told of terrible consequences despite my assertions that I'd been running tubeless with 'non tubless' tyres on my mtb for a few years without any problems. Their argument was that higher cornering speeds meant that a flat could cause the tyre to come off the rim. I didn't challenge this at the time so my bad.
The hypers (along with Randonneur pro 2) seat very nicely on my tubeless rim and I'd love to go tubeless with them as I've now swapped back to the pro's after a particularly bad week when I suffered 7 punctures with the Hypers (3 in one day)
Go for it... I am under no illusion that if I flat and corner at speed the tyre will pop off, just like clinchers do... but why would I corner at speed with a flat tyre? I suppose by the time all the 50 ml of sealant have sprayed out, I should have noticed I have a flat. They work very well, although the rear loses more pressure than I would like overnight (about 20-30 PSI) and needs daily pumping, bit like a latex inner tube. The front doesn't.
Even jumping off pavements and stuff there is no burping... all good... running 50-60 PSIleft the forum March 20230 -
I will, just need to buy some tape and the valves, think I've got a full bottle of sealant. What do you use - I think I've got Stan's?0
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[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19683726#p19683726]Arthur Scrimshaw[/url] wrote:I will, just need to buy some tape and the valves, think I've got a full bottle of sealant. What do you use - I think I've got Stan's?
STansleft the forum March 20230 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:Managed to convert the Voyager Hyper 37 to tubeless. The problem was to sit them on the ramps of the rim, as they are loose fit and there was no way of pumping them up. So I have used the inner tube technique... once the tyre is seated, you only unseat one side to remove the inner tube, fit a valve and inflate... much easier... now let's see if it holds air once sealed...
If you've converted those, do you think you could convert 27c Open Paves to tubeless? On the Pacenti rims they were stupidly tight at the bead; much tighter than the Sector 28s. This would be solely for interest's sake to see what the ride quality would be like. Open Paves on latex tubes are the best ride I've experienced so far, would love to feel what they'd be like tubeless. I'm sure there will be loads of caveats as to their usability when mounted as tubeless... (sidewall too weak?)Shand Skinnymalinky
Argon 18 Radon0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:Managed to convert the Voyager Hyper 37 to tubeless. The problem was to sit them on the ramps of the rim, as they are loose fit and there was no way of pumping them up. So I have used the inner tube technique... once the tyre is seated, you only unseat one side to remove the inner tube, fit a valve and inflate... much easier... now let's see if it holds air once sealed...
If you've converted those, do you think you could convert 27c Open Paves to tubeless? On the Pacenti rims they were stupidly tight at the bead; much tighter than the Sector 28s. This would be solely for interest's sake to see what the ride quality would be like. Open Paves on latex tubes are the best ride I've experienced so far, would love to feel what they'd be like tubeless. I'm sure there will be loads of caveats as to their usability when mounted as tubeless... (sidewall too weak?)
you need 80 PSI to keep them on, which is a bit risky to run for a non tubeless tyre... if they were 32 you'd probably be fine with 60 PSI and tubeless would be OKleft the forum March 20230 -
Is there a de facto choice for a 25mm road tubeless tyre for the winter? I have Hutchinson Atom Galactik on one bike and Schwalbe Ones on the other (both tubeless) but don't get the impression that they will prove the most durable or hardy come the winter months and all the assorted cack that that deposits on the roads.
Are Hutchinson Fusion 3 any more robust?
Or am I even worrying unduly about this and just stick with the two I have and run them into the ground?0 -
Is there a de facto choice for a 25mm road tubeless tyre for the winter? I have Hutchinson Atom Galactik on one bike and Schwalbe Ones on the other (both tubeless) but don't get the impression that they will prove the most durable or hardy come the winter months and all the assorted cack that that deposits on the roads.
Are Hutchinson Fusion 3 any more robust?
Or am I even worrying unduly about this and just stick with the two I have and run them into the ground?
My Ones got absolutely trashed during a very wet five day trip around the borders, lakes and moors. So for longevity I'd forget about the Ones as mine are pretty much done after that.
Considering the 'industry' seems to pushing road tubeless compatibility the choice and prices of tyres available at the moment really sucks. If it weren't for the fact my rims are nigh on impossible to fit clincher tyres to I wouldn't even consider tubeless as there's so many good inexpensive clincher tyres available.0 -
I ran the 28 version of the One last winter on the commuter, approx 1,500 miles with no issues.
Tyres are still fine so I'll have to see how far they go once it starts to get used again this autumn.The path of my life is strewn with cowpats from the devil's own satanic herd.0 -
I ran the 28 version of the One last winter on the commuter, approx 1,500 miles with no issues.
Yeah I rode mine on holiday this summer, which entailed a 1km gravel/cobbled/dirt track driveway to get out onto the roads and while not ideal they don't seem to have suffered that badly as a result.0 -
I don't think any of the tubeless tyres currently on the market could be defined "winter tyres"... it's down to economics... the Hutch Sector are 50-60 quid a pop... who want to spend that kind of money to ride in winter?
Use cheap clinchers with inner tubes and sealant or convert some cheap big donuts like I did with the Voyager Hyperleft the forum March 20230 -
I don't think any of the tubeless tyres currently on the market could be defined "winter tyres"... it's down to economics... the Hutch Sector are 50-60 quid a pop... who want to spend that kind of money to ride in winter?
Use cheap clinchers with inner tubes and sealant or convert some cheap big donuts like I did with the Voyager Hyper
I got mine from Bike24 and it cost me about 77 quid for two. Not saying they're cheap, but you can get them cheaper if you look around. I'm going to run mine through winter to see how they fare. I haven't seen anyone else's comments on the Sector 28 when run through winter. Guess I'll be the guinea pig...Shand Skinnymalinky
Argon 18 Radon0 -
From what I can see the Hutchinson Secteurs are only available in 28mm? Pretty sure those won't fit in my frame...0
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Question regarding Road Tubeless.
I recently set up my Easton EA90RT with Schwalbe One and Stans Sealant. All went well and managed to get it right first time with no mess. Impressed with things so far.
I then tried to use my Track Pump a few days later and air is not coming from the Presta side only the Schrader. I have no doubt some Sealant got into the pump and is causing the problem.
Anyone else have this problem and is my pump goosed? How can I stop this happening again?0 -
Vittoria are showing at eurobike there new corsa tubeless tyre. Now since my favourite clinchers are the vittoria cx the fact they have a 205g tubeless tyre for 2016 has me sold already.
I ride tubeless or tubs in winter, it that or gator skin hardshell tyres.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0 -
I use Hutchinson Intensive tubeless year-round on a couple of my bikes. Pretty well bomb-proof. Commuting in London, they do get very cut up so need replacing long before they've actually worn out, but I get at least a couple of thousand miles out of them before the sealant starts to struggle.Is there a de facto choice for a 25mm road tubeless tyre for the winter?0 -
First ride with inner tubes since June... and prompt puncture... :evil:left the forum March 20230
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the vittoria tubeless are only listed as 23mm
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Morning
possibly a bit of an "aside" but it is tubeless tyre related. I'm currently looking at some new wheels and one of the contenders has a 21mm internal width. This according to the table on the Sheldon Brown website means a minimum tyre size of 35C.
My preferred option would be to stick with either the Hutch Sector 28's and/or the Schwalbe One 28 I currently run but are they likely to be a bit narrow for a 21mm (internal) rim?
I have Stans Grail, 20.4mm internal rims with 28C Ones on one of my bikes and they seem perfectly fine.
Any thoughts ?
Neither the S-One or the G-One I've also got my eye on are available yet of course. I've got an unused pair of WTB Nano TCS bit they are a 40C and I'm pretty sure I won't have even a fag paper clearance on my GT Grade if I went with them which is a shame.0 -
Morning
possibly a bit of an "aside" but it is tubeless tyre related. I'm currently looking at some new wheels and one of the contenders has a 21mm internal width. This according to the table on the Sheldon Brown website means a minimum tyre size of 35C.
My preferred option would be to stick with either the Hutch Sector 28's and/or the Schwalbe One 28 I currently run but are they likely to be a bit narrow for a 21mm (internal) rim?
I have Stans Grail, 20.4mm internal rims with 28C Ones on one of my bikes and they seem perfectly fine.
Any thoughts ?
Neither the S-One or the G-One I've also got my eye on are available yet of course. I've got an unused pair of WTB Nano TCS bit they are a 40C and I'm pretty sure I won't have even a fag paper clearance on my GT Grade if I went with them which is a shame.
Fineleft the forum March 20230 -
Thanks Ugo
it struck me I was probably overthinking it/worrying about nothing. I have a pair of crosswolf kicking around which I'll probably fit until some of the others become available.0 -
Just recounted the story to guy in my local bike shop. He has the Ones' and no punctures in 3k miles of commuting so far. A rep brought in a set of the pro version for him to try. Same commute as he uses the Ones' but 2 punctures within 300 miles of use the latter more of a rip that required a small boot makes him wary of using them except at weekends on country runs. Luck plays a huge part of course.
If it says PRO, it's quite clearly not a commuting tyre. Much lighter product, much easier to damage
I have a different experience: I'm using the Schwalbe Pro One's of approx 1600km now (roads in Holland, Belgium, France, tarmac, gravel, etc) and they're performing well. Where I had a lot of small cuts and damages with the One's, the Pro One's are still round and no cuts what so ever.
Are you a tester???0 -
Just recounted the story to guy in my local bike shop. He has the Ones' and no punctures in 3k miles of commuting so far. A rep brought in a set of the pro version for him to try. Same commute as he uses the Ones' but 2 punctures within 300 miles of use the latter more of a rip that required a small boot makes him wary of using them except at weekends on country runs. Luck plays a huge part of course.
If it says PRO, it's quite clearly not a commuting tyre. Much lighter product, much easier to damage
I have a different experience: I'm using the Schwalbe Pro One's of approx 1600km now (roads in Holland, Belgium, France, tarmac, gravel, etc) and they're performing well. Where I had a lot of small cuts and damages with the One's, the Pro One's are still round and no cuts what so ever.
Are you a tester???
Yep, I am0 -
When will they be on the market? if you knowJust recounted the story to guy in my local bike shop. He has the Ones' and no punctures in 3k miles of commuting so far. A rep brought in a set of the pro version for him to try. Same commute as he uses the Ones' but 2 punctures within 300 miles of use the latter more of a rip that required a small boot makes him wary of using them except at weekends on country runs. Luck plays a huge part of course.
If it says PRO, it's quite clearly not a commuting tyre. Much lighter product, much easier to damage
I have a different experience: I'm using the Schwalbe Pro One's of approx 1600km now (roads in Holland, Belgium, France, tarmac, gravel, etc) and they're performing well. Where I had a lot of small cuts and damages with the One's, the Pro One's are still round and no cuts what so ever.
Are you a tester???
Yep, I am0 -
Finally got my grubby paws on a set of IRC tubeless tyres. I am hoping ugo's good experiences with them will also be mine. Fingers crossed as I have a schwable one on its last legs on the bike at the moment. So seeing it has to come off for a repair well I might as well.http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.0
