Pacenti SL23 Volta 11s Hubs £169.99 now £149.99 Doh
Comments
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Moonbiker wrote:Do they come with rim tape included? (I think u need the panceti or stans that makes tyre fit easy?)
http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Pacenti-Rim-TapeOne roll is provides enough tape for four tubed wheels or two tubeless wheels.
Mine set came with rim tapes. I replaced these (they're quite thick) with a single wrap of 12mm cloth adhesive rim tape to ease up tyre fitting as I'm running them tubed for now.
That said I fitted new Pro 4 service course in 23mm with no major difficulty, my guess is that 25mm version will be a complete doddle to fit.0 -
I would be remiss not to point out that CRC are selling Hutchinson Atom Galaltik tubeless tyres at £25 at the minute.0
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MisterMuncher wrote:I would be remiss not to point out that CRC are selling Hutchinson Atom Galaltik tubeless tyres at £25 at the minute.
Well spotted... shame only come in 23 mm. I ordered a new set of Schwalbe One tubeless 25... Bike 24 have them for 25 quid each give or take exchange rateleft the forum March 20230 -
Also a good spot. Might order those as well then, try a few things out.0
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MisterMuncher wrote:Also a good spot. Might order those as well then, try a few things out.
You might as well, availability is so patchy that one has to stock up... which is annoyingleft the forum March 20230 -
holiver wrote:Can anyone with experience of Superstar hubs comment on the noise they make? Are the they and noisy or boring and quiet?
Just got my SL23s today. The rear hub is noisy, but not excessively so. Very similar to the hub in this vid at 49sec.
http://youtu.be/oKbKfxu5_oQ?t=48s
Weights for my 20/24 wheels are front: 658g, rear: 867g excluding rim tapes, so 1525g for the pair. Superstars rim tapes are 29g each.0 -
Nice, thanksDKay wrote:holiver wrote:Can anyone with experience of Superstar hubs comment on the noise they make? Are the they and noisy or boring and quiet?
Just got my SL23s today. The rear hub is noisy, but not excessively so. Very similar to the hub in this vid at 49sec.
http://youtu.be/oKbKfxu5_oQ?t=48s
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Impressed with the strength of these, this morning I rode over a cattle grid, wasn't watching carefully enough and ended up with the wheels going down a gap between the slats. Two huge bangs later I am 10yds down the road stopping, expecting to see two pinch flats at least. Nothing. On further inspection both rims have slight damage which will easily file out. Still straight and true as well.0
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tincaman wrote:Impressed with the strength of these, this morning I rode over a cattle grid, wasn't watching carefully enough and ended up with the wheels going down a gap between the slats. Two huge bangs later I am 10yds down the road stopping, expecting to see two pinch flats at least. Nothing. On further inspection both rims have slight damage which will easily file out. Still straight and true as well.
Just out of interest are yours the 20/24 or 28/28 spoke count? I went for the 28's .0 -
Winter wheels, so 28 spokes0
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My stans no tubes yellow rim tape hopefully arrived today. I will be running the wheels with tubes so this is just to hopefully make fitting tyres a bit easier. Do I need two layers or will one layer suffice?0
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dazz_ni45 wrote:My stans no tubes yellow rim tape hopefully arrived today. I will be running the wheels with tubes so this is just to hopefully make fitting tyres a bit easier. Do I need two layers or will one layer suffice?
If you run inner tubes then one layer will be enough, however two layers will make you "tubeless ready". Inevitably you will turn into a tubeless fan... pointless to resist...
left the forum March 20230 -
Got some of these, unimpressive build quality but absurdly good price, even at the £200 I paid for them inbetween deals.0
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Three hours, much swearing, heating tyres, soapy water, washing up liquid, wasted sealant, two broken tyre levers and the same number of sore thumbs later, I've finally managed to fit a pair of 25mm Schwalbe One tubeless tyres to my Superstar Pacentis. Sweet jesus, they're a tight fit. I actually walked away from the second one for 30mins or I would have happily smashed it up. Fitting 23mm tubeless Ones to my converted Archetypes was childs play in comparison. The central well of the Pacentis seems to be unnecessarily shallow.
I hope to hell that the sealant does it's job if I ever get a puncture out on a ride. Because if it doesn't, I'm screwed. Similarly, if the tyre suffers a big cut, I'm screwed. Beginning to think that road tubeless is too much of a hassle.
BTW: Took a punt of Superstars own tubeless rim tape. It's definately thinner than the Stans stuff and doesn't apply as well, but seems to work well enough. Although, I took the added security of fitting a tubed-tyre overnight to squeeze the two layers of tape into place.0 -
Here's mine that arrived the other day;
Pacenti SL23 rims, Volta 11 speed hubs, new 105 11-28T cassette, Halo hex key skewers and fitted with 23-25mm inner tubes and 23mm Vittoria open Corsas.
Yes a bit of a tight fit and first attempt pinched a hole in the tube. I like to think of myself as a good tyre fitter so repaired the hole and went back at it, took around 7 minutes, rear done in around the same time.If the bar ain't bending, you're just pretending0 -
adam0bmx0 wrote:Here's mine that arrived the other day;
Pacenti SL23 rims, Volta 11 speed hubs, new 105 11-28T cassette, Halo hex key skewers and fitted with 23-25mm inner tubes and 23mm Vittoria open Corsas.
Yes a bit of a tight fit and first attempt pinched a hole in the tube. I like to think of myself as a good tyre fitter so repaired the hole and went back at it, took around 7 minutes, rear done in around the same time.
If you've ridden a few NBCC routes you'd need to be
When did you order these ? I thought they'd sold out of everything bar the Campag ones...... 0 -
DKay wrote:I hope to hell that the sealant does it's job if I ever get a puncture out on a ride. Because if it doesn't, I'm screwed. Similarly, if the tyre suffers a big cut, I'm screwed. Beginning to think that road tubeless is too much of a hassle.
BTW: Took a punt of Superstars own tubeless rim tape. It's definitely thinner than the Stans stuff and doesn't apply as well, but seems to work well enough. Although, I took the added security of fitting a tubed-tyre overnight to squeeze the two layers of tape into place.
Road tubeless is fine, with the right rim... my HED Plus are a doodle, the Stans 340 were even easier and the Pacenti SL 25 are fine.
As for the tape, I said that a few pages ago... it's cheap, but on balance I prefer to pay more and get the Stans, which is betterleft the forum March 20230 -
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paxington wrote:If you've ridden a few NBCC routes you'd need to be When did you order these ? I thought they'd sold out of everything bar the Campag ones......
I ordered these last week.
Funny you say that, I used to ride with NBCC when I lived in Filton.If the bar ain't bending, you're just pretending0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:Road tubeless is fine, with the right rim... my HED Plus are a doodle, the Stans 340 were even easier and the Pacenti SL 25 are fine.
As for the tape, I said that a few pages ago... it's cheap, but on balance I prefer to pay more and get the Stans, which is better
Yeah, I read your feedback on the tape. On balance, I'd probably buy the Stans stuff in future too.
Apparently, the SL23 rims are deliberately manufactured to the larger tolerance in terms of diameter, to make inflation easier and to keep the tyre on the rim in case of failure. I personally wish they'd reduced the diameter by just a few mm. I've never, ever had as much trouble fitting a tyre as I did today.0 -
DKay wrote:ugo.santalucia wrote:Road tubeless is fine, with the right rim... my HED Plus are a doodle, the Stans 340 were even easier and the Pacenti SL 25 are fine.
As for the tape, I said that a few pages ago... it's cheap, but on balance I prefer to pay more and get the Stans, which is better
Yeah, I read your feedback on the tape. On balance, I'd probably buy the Stans stuff in future too.
Apparently, the SL23 rims are deliberately manufactured to the larger tolerance in terms of diameter, to make inflation easier and to keep the tyre on the rim in case of failure. I personally wish they'd reduced the diameter by just a few mm. I've never, ever had as much trouble fitting a tyre as I did today.
I wonder if they have changed them... the one you've got are the older stickers... yesterday I built a set of the newer stickers ones, then I tried fitted a tyre and it seemed fine.
Do they have a large kind of 3 mm dot as a wear indicator?left the forum March 20230 -
It's a dot, and fairly large, but I couldn't swear it's 3mm without checking.0
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adam0bmx0 wrote:I like to think of myself as a good tyre fitterpaxington wrote:If you've ridden a few NBCC routes you'd need to be When did you order these ? I thought they'd sold out of everything bar the Campag ones......
I ordered these last week.
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You must have got lucky with one of the last SHIMANO sets...Just checked and they're only showing campag available now.
I found fitting tubed tyres (Pro4 ServiceCourse) on these pretty straight forward too.0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:I wonder if they have changed them... the one you've got are the older stickers... yesterday I built a set of the newer stickers ones, then I tried fitted a tyre and it seemed fine.
Do they have a large kind of 3 mm dot as a wear indicator?
Was it a tubeless tyre you fitted? Mine have the same wear indicator. Maybe I'm just being crap, but I tried every trick in the book, short of using metal tyre levers which I refuse to use on aluminium rims. If I were to do it again, it would probably take me half the time to do it, but that's still an hour too long!0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:Mounted Schwable one tyres (tubeless) on Pacenti SL23 rim with ease. The tyres sealed up easily and after the intial pressure drop and reinflating they held pressure. As for dealing with a big cut I will be carrying a tyre boot and a spare tube with tubeless in a tiny conti saddle bag for 100 mile + rides. It will lighten the load a bit over what I normally carry.
Tubeless set up is very easy indeed.
I've gone the tubed route for now, largely as I already had a spare new set in the "parts bin". Might give this shot when they wear out though.0 -
thecycleclinic wrote:It will lighten the load a bit over what I normally carry.
This surprised me a bit. Would you not carry pretty much the same amount? Spare inner, boot, lever, inflator...ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:
Seconds! Tyres on the other hand...0 -
Right...
I just inspected and corrected a set of these. A friend bought a pair of the 28/28 and returned them after the first ride, as he broke a spoke and two others came loose. Given he didn't trust the repair they did, he brought them here for me to have a look.
The first thing I noticed is that I expected Sapim Laser, while in fact the 28/28 are built with Sapim Race.... fair enough and a good idea for a training set, but of course the weight jumps to 1700 or so.
The front wheel had an average tension of 600 N, as measured with my calibrated DT Swiss gauge. This is very low of course... on top of that, one of the spokes had 400 N tension and another had ca. 800 N, so that makes quite a spread... one could say 600 + or - 33%... typical good quality hand built front come at 1000 N + or - 10%
The rear wheel was slightly out of dish, not a lot, kind of 2 mm. The average tension on the drive side was 950 N and the spread quite good, the lowest tension recorded was 850 N and the highest 1100 N. However, the non drive side was all over the place. I recorded a 0.5 reading on the gauge, which is off scale for this type of spoke and means the tension was lower than 300 N and a reading of 550 N was the highest on the NDS, while the average was around 400 N. Ideally for this rim 1200 N on the drive side is a healthy tension.
Annoyingly the wheels are built with no lubricant on the spoke threads and the rim holes, which means bringing the tension up to where it should be without rounding the nipples is a bit of a nightmare as there is a hell of a lot of friction. Luckily I have a very tight spoke key that deals well in these situations. It took about 45 minutes, but they are now fine and I am confident they will last many happy miles.
My thoughts: lasers, acoustic tuning, torque measurements and half a million pounds worth of building line fall way short of the build quality a beginner enthusiast can achieve at home with a few basic tools. There is clearly a problem in measuring the tension in house, which should be addressed. Not only it is too low, but the distribution is too wide.
Yes, they are cheap and maybe you have a friend who is handy and can fix them for you, otherwise I very much doubt they will cover the mileage these should cover (6-12 K miles before the rims wear out)
left the forum March 20230
