Pacenti SL23 Volta 11s Hubs £169.99 now £149.99 Doh

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Comments

  • jimwalsh wrote:
    the superstar tubeless valves are not good. got one working fine but the other is leaking sealant and air. very very annoying as it took ages to get the tyres on.

    anyone got valve recommendations for tubeless road?

    Sometimes it's not the valve, but the cut you did in the tape (too big) try patching the area with a piece of extra tape... never tried the Superstar valves... anyway, try Stans
    left the forum March 2023

  • Can I hi-jack this slightly and ask that you also mention good options/shops for other bits needed (sealant, tape??)? I'd never thought of tubeless (and know nothing about it) but am being drawn into this after buying these wheels.....

    You can buy lookalike products, save 20 quid and hope they work just as well or you can get Stans which is the benchmark and the stuff others copy... it's up to you... you will spend that money anyway in some other crap you don't need, so you might as well spend it to buy something that works instead
    left the forum March 2023

  • Can I hi-jack this slightly and ask that you also mention good options/shops for other bits needed (sealant, tape??)? I'd never thought of tubeless (and know nothing about it) but am being drawn into this after buying these wheels.....

    You can buy lookalike products, save 20 quid and hope they work just as well or you can get Stans which is the benchmark and the stuff others copy... it's up to you... you will spend that money anyway in some other crap you don't need, so you might as well spend it to buy something that works instead

    Wow you really have it in for us here are Superstar? Is it something personal?

    Ive never seen a problem with our valves (we have sold about 20,000 pairs of them so far) and they are exactly the same (im willing to put £20 on it they are the same as) most of the competition, as theres only a few people making this part. If its leaking 99% of the time it is due to the taping as it will leak out into the rim hollow and blow out the valve hole. I doubt its anythign to do with the valve but you can take it apart and clean just in case.

    Any questions just let me know, Superstar
  • I don't intend on running my set tubeless at the moment (will perhaps change come spring/summer) and the supplied rim tape does seem to be quite thick. Is there any recommendations/links of what I should change this too which will hopefully make it easier in fitting the tyres

  • Can I hi-jack this slightly and ask that you also mention good options/shops for other bits needed (sealant, tape??)? I'd never thought of tubeless (and know nothing about it) but am being drawn into this after buying these wheels.....

    You can buy lookalike products, save 20 quid and hope they work just as well or you can get Stans which is the benchmark and the stuff others copy... it's up to you... you will spend that money anyway in some other crap you don't need, so you might as well spend it to buy something that works instead

    Wow you really have it in for us here are Superstar? Is it something personal?

    Ive never seen a problem with our valves (we have sold about 20,000 pairs of them so far) and they are exactly the same (im willing to put £20 on it they are the same as) most of the competition, as theres only a few people making this part. If its leaking 99% of the time it is due to the taping as it will leak out into the rim hollow and blow out the valve hole. I doubt its anythign to do with the valve but you can take it apart and clean just in case.

    Any questions just let me know, Superstar

    Dear Mr Superstar, this is a public forum and I say what I want. Besides, if you actually took the time to read my posts, which you never seem to do, you would have realised I said I never tried your valves and I suggested maybe the problem is not even the valve, just as you did. I did say previously that your tape is not very good and I stand by what I say, having tried it.

    Now, I urge you to stop playing this victim role and get on with the flow. From your perspective of a successful business there is really no need to come here and get defensive every time someone might even advise to use a different product
    left the forum March 2023
  • dazz_ni45 wrote:
    I don't intend on running my set tubeless at the moment (will perhaps change come spring/summer) and the supplied rim tape does seem to be quite thick. Is there any recommendations/links of what I should change this too which will hopefully make it easier in fitting the tyres

    A tubeless rim is best fitted with a tubeless rim tape, which follows the profile better and takes less volume. Stans 21 mm tubeless tape (2 layers for road pressure) works well. Pacenti also make their own tubeless tape, but it's not as good. Maddog on here often suggests a cross weave tape... can't remember the make though, maybe 3M?
    left the forum March 2023
  • dazz_ni45 wrote:
    I don't intend on running my set tubeless at the moment (will perhaps change come spring/summer) and the supplied rim tape does seem to be quite thick. Is there any recommendations/links of what I should change this too which will hopefully make it easier in fitting the tyres

    A tubeless rim is best fitted with a tubeless rim tape, which follows the profile better and takes less volume. Stans 21 mm tubeless tape (2 layers for road pressure) works well. Pacenti also make their own tubeless tape, but it's not as good. Maddog on here often suggests a cross weave tape... can't remember the make though, maybe 3M?

    Thanks Ugo, so 21mm will be suitable for this rim?
  • dazz_ni45 wrote:
    dazz_ni45 wrote:
    I don't intend on running my set tubeless at the moment (will perhaps change come spring/summer) and the supplied rim tape does seem to be quite thick. Is there any recommendations/links of what I should change this too which will hopefully make it easier in fitting the tyres

    A tubeless rim is best fitted with a tubeless rim tape, which follows the profile better and takes less volume. Stans 21 mm tubeless tape (2 layers for road pressure) works well. Pacenti also make their own tubeless tape, but it's not as good. Maddog on here often suggests a cross weave tape... can't remember the make though, maybe 3M?

    Thanks Ugo, so 21mm will be suitable for this rim?

    Yes... 21 is what I would use for a rim with 17-18 internal. Wider rims with 20 internal take a 25 mm tape
    left the forum March 2023
  • Try gorilla tape.
    The superstar valves work perfectly too :)
  • JoostG
    JoostG Posts: 189
    Try gorilla tape.
    The superstar valves work perfectly too :)

    I wouldn't recommend that. I tried to do it with gorilla tape (electric/isolation tape), 2 layers, but above 4 bar the spoke hols started to leak air. I replaced the gorilla tape by Superstars tape and the job was done.
  • JoostG wrote:
    I tried to do it with gorilla tape (electric/isolation tape), 2 layers, but above 4 bar the spoke hols started to leak air.
    I would have thought so... having tried to seal a bottle of Prosecco with cling film I can confirm it doesn't work... :?
    left the forum March 2023
  • JoostG
    JoostG Posts: 189
    JoostG wrote:
    I tried to do it with gorilla tape (electric/isolation tape), 2 layers, but above 4 bar the spoke hols started to leak air.
    I would have thought so... having tried to seal a bottle of Prosecco with cling film I can confirm it doesn't work... :?

    Can't blame a men for trying :D

    I experienced that gorilla tape in combination with a regular Zonda rim works. But you than don't have to seal twenty plus spoke holes, just one small hole.
  • jimwalsh
    jimwalsh Posts: 113
    It may well be operator error on my side with the valve/tape combo.

    however the sealant is dripping from the valve end rather than the sides of the valve...

    I am tempted to give up on tubeless as fitting these tyres has been a massive ball ache. and I really cant see how I could reasonably fix a tyre on the side of the road in the event of a large puncture.
  • jimwalsh wrote:
    It may well be operator error on my side with the valve/tape combo.

    however the sealant is dripping from the valve end rather than the sides of the valve...

    I am tempted to give up on tubeless as fitting these tyres has been a massive ball ache. and I really cant see how I could reasonably fix a tyre on the side of the road in the event of a large puncture.

    1) Maybe the valve top is unscrewed?

    2) It's the rim, rather than the tubeless system, you will have exactly the same problem, if not worse with a tyre + inner tube system. These Pacenti SL 23 are very tight... the SL 25 disc rims are not as tight and I can fit a Schwalbe One with minimum use of the tyre levers. Rumours that tubeless tyres are tighter are sort of unfounded... I have tried a couple of Hutchinson too (fusion and intensive) and they don't seem particularly tight to fit on Stans Alpha/HED plus or Pacenti SL 25 rims...
    left the forum March 2023
  • JoostG
    JoostG Posts: 189
    jimwalsh wrote:
    It may well be operator error on my side with the valve/tape combo.

    however the sealant is dripping from the valve end rather than the sides of the valve...

    I am tempted to give up on tubeless as fitting these tyres has been a massive ball ache. and I really cant see how I could reasonably fix a tyre on the side of the road in the event of a large puncture.

    Tubeless and fixing the tyre? You add liquid latex: that will fix punctures up to 4 mm (own experience). In same case you need add some extra air with a pump. Bigger hole/puncture? What's there to be fixed. Such a tyre will be a lost cause as an inner tube will pop out. With a clincher and with a tubeless tyre you need to locate a shop or have to make a phone call. I stopped carrying an extra inner tube.

    Besides that, did you ever use a VAR tyre lever? With that tool I (dis)mounted tubeless gyres on 4 different rims without worries.

    Last but not least: going tubeless is a learning curve. The first time is was an hassle, and it took me ages. Last night I swapped several tyres in less than 30 minutes.
  • JoostG wrote:
    Tubeless and fixing the tyre? You add liquid latex: that will fix punctures up to 4 mm (own experience). In same case you need add some extra air with a pump. Bigger hole/puncture? What's there to be fixed. Such a tyre will be a lost cause as an inner tube will pop out. With a clincher and with a tubeless tyre you need to locate a shop or have to make a phone call. I stopped carrying an extra inner tube.

    Besides that, did you ever use a VAR tyre lever? With that tool I (dis)mounted tubeless gyres on 4 different rims without worries.

    Last but not least: going tubeless is a learning curve. The first time is was an hassle, and it took me ages. Last night I swapped several tyres in less than 30 minutes.

    +1
    left the forum March 2023
  • JoostG
    JoostG Posts: 189
    It's a pity that todays discount (30%) on road wheels doen't apply to the Pacenti SL23 Volta set. Otherwise I would have bought a second set.
  • 6wheels
    6wheels Posts: 411
    Superstar might reply with a Loyal Customer Discount of 30%!!! :wink:
  • Having gotten down (read: UP) to a very svelte 89KG after a week's hard riding (read: eating and drinking) in Gran Canaria I've ordered a set of these in 28 hole along with a winter subscription to slim fast.........
  • I see you cannot find any positives, how about you pop down sometime to the factory and i will prove to you we are up there with the best builders in the world. Hey rubbish manufacturers (sarcasm) like Enve wheels have just ordered the same machine to build their wheels on .

    In the interest of pedantry and accuracy, I have of course contacted ENVE and here is their reply
    Thank you for the inquiry. We do have a machine which assists our wheel building staff with lacing the wheel, and this machine is overseen by an employee. The employee threads the spokes into the hubs, determines the lacing pattern, and guides the robot. The robot assists with attaching the nipples and adding the first round of tension. This can be the most time consuming part of the process, and we brought the machine to help increase efficiency in the build process, while still allowing ENVE to control the quality. After the lacing process is complete, the wheels are hand tensioned an trued by our staff. The large point to note in the process of pursuing this type of machine is that the hand finishing is the most important part of the build process. In a hand finished wheel you can measure tension, and can properly true the wheel. Machines which build a wheel completely measure torque instead
    left the forum March 2023
  • tincaman
    tincaman Posts: 508
    JoostG wrote:
    It's a pity that todays discount (30%) on road wheels doen't apply to the Pacenti SL23 Volta set. Otherwise I would have bought a second set.

    The code CWSL23 is still working, just tried it.......
  • JoostG
    JoostG Posts: 189
    tincaman wrote:
    JoostG wrote:
    It's a pity that todays discount (30%) on road wheels doen't apply to the Pacenti SL23 Volta set. Otherwise I would have bought a second set.

    The code CWSL23 is still working, just tried it.......

    Hmmm, it is. The pocket is a little bit more empty right now.... :D
  • Very pleased with my 28H set of these so far. Hubs are exceptionally smooth and appear to want to run forever. Tyres and tubes were not the easiest fit I've ever done but nowhere near as difficult as I'd been led to believe by some.
    One 100k ride in and very impressed !
  • cycleclinic
    cycleclinic Posts: 6,865
    Mounted Schwable one tyres (tubeless) on Pacenti SL23 rim with ease. The tyres sealed up easily and after the intial pressure drop and reinflating they held pressure. As for dealing with a big cut I will be carrying a tyre boot and a spare tube with tubeless in a tiny conti saddle bag for 100 mile + rides. It will lighten the load a bit over what I normally carry.

    Tubeless set up is very easy indeed.
    http://www.thecycleclinic.co.uk -wheel building and other stuff.
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    Just reading how Kirk pancenti invented the 650b mtb
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Moonbiker wrote:
    Just reading how Kirk pancenti invented the 650b mtb

    Let me guess. He said, "I know, if I make a mountain bike with ever so slightly bigger wheels than the old ones, and tell everyone that the 26 inch wheels they've been using for years are crap but that my new, ever so slightly bigger wheels are totally rad and gnarly dude, then I can get everyone to replace their bikes and sell loads more wheels and make lots of money"??
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Moonbiker wrote:
    Just reading how Kirk pancenti invented the 650b mtb

    He's a nice guy. He wrote me an email after I reviewed his SL 25 rims... no megalomania there, he's really down to earth and keen to get feedback on his products...
    left the forum March 2023
  • holiver
    holiver Posts: 729
    Can anyone with experience of Superstar hubs comment on the noise they make? Are the they and noisy or boring and quiet?
  • Moonbiker
    Moonbiker Posts: 1,706
    Do they come with rim tape included? (I think u need the panceti or stans that makes tyre fit easy?)

    http://www.allterraincycles.co.uk/Pacenti-Rim-Tape
    One roll is provides enough tape for four tubed wheels or two tubeless wheels.

    Really dumb question but why do tubless wheels use half as much tape?
  • Moonbiker wrote:

    Really dumb question but why do tubless wheels use half as much tape?

    Because you use two layers of tubeless tape if you want to go tubeless. It's good practice to improve air-tightness
    left the forum March 2023