Pacenti SL23 Volta 11s Hubs £169.99 now £149.99 Doh

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Comments

  • letap73
    letap73 Posts: 1,608
    letap73 wrote:
    A few questions for superstar component if I may:

    You mentioned earlier on in the thread that you were selling many wheel sets - it made it difficult to have the time to respond on this thread - what fraction of wheel sets do you have returned for faults such as low tensioned spokes etc. Does the warranty cover fixes to issues like low tensioning of spokes etc.

    As said earlier in the thread returns for "faults" are sub 1%. Bear in mind this includes used wheels, damaged wheels, wheels with problems which don't exist, wheels with genuine problems and so on

    If it's faulty we fix it under warranty, that's about all there is to say

    Oh and we offer free truing for life and discount crash rebuilds to the cost of the rim only. Need anything else?

    Any questions let me know, superstar

    Thanks for the quick response to the questions.
    Is there a rider weight limit to the RSR straight pull wheel set?
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    I've got the gunmetal ones, which look really good. I with I'd got gold hubs with my C46s, but I chickened out and played it safe with boring black.
  • paxington
    paxington Posts: 162
    DKay wrote:
    I've got the gunmetal ones, which look really good. I with I'd got gold hubs with my C46s, but I chickened out and played it safe with boring black.
    Black hubs definitely travel better in the sense of suiting any bike's colour scheme.
  • paxington wrote:
    If they'd been 11 speed it probably would have been different

    The Icon rear is a Novatec (there is a thread about them), so you can just replace the 10 speed free hub with a Type B2 11speed one

    FREEHUBS-SHIM-SRAM-11spd.png

    And the correct end caps

    Acces-End%20Cap.png

    Probably less than 50 quid in total

    Errr thats completely incorrect and actually quite dangerous to say that would work. The 10 speed version of the Icon (yes its novatech but they make hundreds of models and custom products like ours) cannot be changed to 11 speed. A 10 speed hubshell is different to the 11 speed one, as on the 11 speed the drive side flange is 2mm closer to the centre to make room for the longer freehub. Because of this if you fit a 10speed hub with a 11 speed freehub the hub endcaps will not be screwed on correctly (could lead to axle failure), you will be stretching your frame (misalignment, poor shifting and could cause failures) and in some cases the chain/mech can contact the spokes. This incompatibility with 11speed is the reason for the heavy discount to clear the old EVO stock, which is great if that is what you need. If you want 11 speed you need to order the Icon ULTRA.

    Also the B2 type is not the freehub we use and also the endcap is completely incompatible. So all in it just wouldnt work at all and would be a waste of money for people who believe your advice.

    Please do not comment on the compatibility of our products, customers should email contact@superstarcomponents.com where you can get the correct and safe advice.

    Regards, Superstar
  • Wouldn't it work if you change the end caps as well? That's normally the way to convert a 482 10 speed into a 482 11 speed. Change free hub and caps.
    left the forum March 2023
  • Wouldn't it work if you change the end caps as well? That's normally the way to convert a 482 10 speed into a 482 11 speed. Change free hub and caps.

    If its an 11 speed hubshell you (which builds a weaker wheel due to the steeper dish angle on drive side) you just put a spacer on the freehub to become 10 speed (which is included with the hub). If you fit a 10 speed freehub on a 11 speed hub, then you are altering the hub length and chainline so it doesnt work. Obviously you cannot make a 10 speed hub into an 11 speed for the reason previously explained.

    The hubshells are different.

    Please bear in mind i know what im talking about as probably Novatechs largest customer in the UK...
  • Wouldn't it work if you change the end caps as well? That's normally the way to convert a 482 10 speed into a 482 11 speed. Change free hub and caps.

    Please bear in mind i know what im talking about as probably Novatechs largest customer in the UK...

    My mistake... it did look like a 482.
    Is it based on a 162 with a 12 mm axle and A type free hub then or it has a 15 mm axle and B type like the 482?
    left the forum March 2023
  • To my knowledge you cant change any 10 speed hub to 11 speed without it being a bodge, as the hubshells are different. Its even harder with disc hubs as you cannot move the hubshell across to make room

    Our hubs are not standard parts, they are based on the standard design but i change them to improve them for my needs. We hold tonnes of spares inhouse so you dont need to trawl the internet searching for things which might work, you just order the right part from us direct for minimal cost.

    Any questions please let me know, Superstar
  • Its even harder with disc hubs as you cannot move the hubshell across to make room

    Before they came out with the 772 disc hub, the 712 could be fitted with either a 10 speed B type free hub or an 11 speed one, as long as the correct hub cap was fitted too.

    Neither the 712 converted nor the specifically designed 772 fitted with 11 speed free hub seem to work as well as the 712 fitted with a 10 speed one though... :roll:
    left the forum March 2023
  • How much of a difference in speed/rolling resistance will there realistically be if I was use Conti GP4000s instead of a tubeless tyre (e.g. Hutchinson Fusion 3s)?
  • How much of a difference in speed/rolling resistance will there realistically be if I was use Conti GP4000s instead of a tubeless tyre (e.g. Hutchinson Fusion 3s)?

    I think there is a table somewhere on the internet and I seem to recall a GP 4000 with latex inner tubes has less rolling resistance than any tubeless tyre on the market... not with butyl though...
    left the forum March 2023
  • petemadoc
    petemadoc Posts: 2,331
    paxington wrote:
    Just out of interest, what spoke count did yo go for and how much do you weigh ?
    I'm a fatty at the moment at around 90KG and so bought 28's as winter wheels.
    Based on my good experience with these in the 28 spoke format I'm toying with getting a 20/24 set for my summer bike, as I'm usually just under 80KG when the mileages crank up in the sunshine.

    I went for the 20/24 but I am a feather weight 60kg. I might be light but the local trails I ride on are rocky so I am hard on equipment. I don't think 20/24 would be sensible at 80kg or 90 for that matter.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    How much of a difference in speed/rolling resistance will there realistically be if I was use Conti GP4000s instead of a tubeless tyre (e.g. Hutchinson Fusion 3s)?

    I think there is a table somewhere on the internet and I seem to recall a GP 4000 with latex inner tubes has less rolling resistance than any tubeless tyre on the market... not with butyl though...

    http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/
  • Its even harder with disc hubs as you cannot move the hubshell across to make room

    Before they came out with the 772 disc hub, the 712 could be fitted with either a 10 speed B type free hub or an 11 speed one, as long as the correct hub cap was fitted too.

    Neither the 712 converted nor the specifically designed 772 fitted with 11 speed free hub seem to work as well as the 712 fitted with a 10 speed one though... :roll:

    I dont use those hubs but bear in mind novatech know what standards are coming up years in advance of customers i suspect that if it works its an 11 speed hubshell. If not then they are bodging it, with the reasons above. The disc mount and freehub distance are fixed, you cant use the same hubshell and magic the 1.8mm out of nowhere! Road hubs you can but then you get clearance issues and lots of other problems, so do it propperly or dont bother is my advice!

    Mountain bikes are going 15/110 front and 12/148 11 speed, ive already got these hubs on designed and on order.... different everything again.

    Regards, superstar
  • DKay wrote:
    How much of a difference in speed/rolling resistance will there realistically be if I was use Conti GP4000s instead of a tubeless tyre (e.g. Hutchinson Fusion 3s)?

    I think there is a table somewhere on the internet and I seem to recall a GP 4000 with latex inner tubes has less rolling resistance than any tubeless tyre on the market... not with butyl though...

    http://www.bicyclerollingresistance.com/

    That's great, thanks. I've already got GP4000s sat around so I might as well wear them out first.
  • paxington
    paxington Posts: 162
    paxington wrote:
    If they'd been 11 speed it probably would have been different

    The Icon rear is a Novatec (there is a thread about them), so you can just replace the 10 speed free hub with a Type B2 11speed one

    FREEHUBS-SHIM-SRAM-11spd.png

    And the correct end caps

    Acces-End%20Cap.png

    Probably less than 50 quid in total

    Errr thats completely incorrect and actually quite dangerous to say that would work. The 10 speed version of the Icon (yes its novatech but they make hundreds of models and custom products like ours) cannot be changed to 11 speed. A 10 speed hubshell is different to the 11 speed one, as on the 11 speed the drive side flange is 2mm closer to the centre to make room for the longer freehub. Because of this if you fit a 10speed hub with a 11 speed freehub the hub endcaps will not be screwed on correctly (could lead to axle failure), you will be stretching your frame (misalignment, poor shifting and could cause failures) and in some cases the chain/mech can contact the spokes. This incompatibility with 11speed is the reason for the heavy discount to clear the old EVO stock, which is great if that is what you need. If you want 11 speed you need to order the Icon ULTRA.

    Also the B2 type is not the freehub we use and also the endcap is completely incompatible. So all in it just wouldnt work at all and would be a waste of money for people who believe your advice.

    Please do not comment on the compatibility of our products, customers should email contact@superstarcomponents.com where you can get the correct and safe advice.

    Regards, Superstar


    Thanks for clarifying that. My first thought was that modifications might well invalidate the warranty.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    edited January 2015
    Got both sets of my wheels back today after them being fettled. The general impression, was that all of the wheels had low average tensions, with the SL23 front being particularly low, requiring anything up to a full turn to get up to the rims recommended tension. The spoke tensions on the SL23s were actually more even than the carbon clinchers, which apparently showed excessive variance.

    I'm glad I've had them checked-out and tweaked, as I'm sure they'll last longer and perform better now. Looking forward to getting out on them as soon as the weather gets a bit better.
  • DKay wrote:
    Got both sets of my wheels back today after them being fettled. The general impression, was that all of the wheels had low average tensions, with the SL23 front being particularly low and requiring anything up to a full turn to get up to the rims recommended tension. The spoke tensions on the SL23s were actually more even than the carbon clinchers, which apparently showed excessive variance.

    I'm glad I've had them checked-out and tweaked, as I'm sure they'll last longer and perform better now. Looking forward to getting out on them as soon as the weather gets a bit better.

    Sounds familiar, of course... Hang on, I'll get the popcorn... :lol:
    left the forum March 2023
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Plucking the spokes on the carbon clinchers, still reveals quite a lot of tension variance. He said that he'd been able to get them within 20% of each other, which makes we wonder what they were beforehand.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    DKay wrote:
    Got both sets of my wheels back today after them being fettled. The general impression, was that all of the wheels had low average tensions, with the SL23 front being particularly low and requiring anything up to a full turn to get up to the rims recommended tension. The spoke tensions on the SL23s were actually more even than the carbon clinchers, which apparently showed excessive variance.

    I'm glad I've had them checked-out and tweaked, as I'm sure they'll last longer and perform better now. Looking forward to getting out on them as soon as the weather gets a bit better.

    Sounds familiar, of course... Hang on, I'll get the popcorn... :lol:

    What do you mean? You're on stage!

    The rest of us have eaten far too much popcorn already :wink:
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Salted or sweet anyone???

  • What do you mean? You're on stage!

    The rest of us have eaten far too much popcorn already :wink:

    Well... I have ran out of things (that I am allowed) to say... Dkay's description matches what I said a few pages ago like a mirror... at least there is consistency in the tension inconsistency... :wink:
    left the forum March 2023
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652

    What do you mean? You're on stage!

    The rest of us have eaten far too much popcorn already :wink:

    Well... I have ran out of things (that I am allowed) to say... Dkay's description matches what I said a few pages ago like a mirror... at least there is consistency in the tension inconsistency... :wink:

    Shhhh.....it's a conspiracy.
  • Picking mine up on Saturday so will let you know how it goes but sensing a pattern as my front seemed way off too.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Before any of the usual suspects start bleating on, I have no vested interest in criticising SSCs products. In fact, build quality aside, their wheels offer brilliant value for money. Especially if you have somebody handy to tension them up better.
  • DKay wrote:
    Salted or sweet anyone???

    Or maybe it's like Rocky V... one too many... :wink:
    left the forum March 2023
  • stevie63
    stevie63 Posts: 481
    No I refuse to believe what you are saying, a robot is better everytime, it is fact. (the 7 people on here so far with undertensioned wheels must all be dreaming, and the fact that ENVE choose to hand finish their wheels after a robot builds them doesn't mean anything)
  • matt-h
    matt-h Posts: 847
    ArsE! Best get my c46 Checked.

    Hoping ssc will refund me the difference if they are out :?

    Matt
  • stevie63 wrote:
    No I refuse to believe what you are saying, a robot is better everytime, it is fact. (the 7 people on here so far with undertensioned wheels must all be dreaming, and the fact that ENVE choose to hand finish their wheels after a robot builds them doesn't mean anything)

    Wow, £150 wheels not quite as well put together as £1800 ones, now there's a shock!
  • matt-h wrote:
    ars*! Best get my c46 Checked.

    Hoping ssc will refund me the difference if they are out :?

    Matt

    Why would they? This is not how warranty works. If you return them they check them, if you go another way, you do it out of the warranty agreement, they have no obligation, they might decide that the warranty is no longer valid, in fact and it would be perfectly reasonable of them to do so. Warranty is NOT the best thing since sliced bread... it is a way to make people spend money with more confidence, but it only goes some way to protect you. Getting small items replaced is generally very easy, but when you purchase items that cost in the region of hundreds or thousands then repairs become more economical for the retailer/manufacturer... but if they can't build it comes without saying that they can't repair either... at that point the warranty is pretty much useless, unless you enjoy taking things to the next level, involving trading standards and all of that.
    left the forum March 2023