Scott Foil - Westbrook Cycles

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Comments

  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    Even better, it seems to be the 2013 is frame available in 54cm not the 2012 but at the same price. Matt Gray/Black. ordered tonight. Can not wait!!!
  • jgarpotter
    jgarpotter Posts: 83
    CGRenn wrote:
    Even better, it seems to be the 2013 is frame available in 54cm not the 2012 but at the same price. Matt Gray/Black. ordered tonight. Can not wait!!!

    Just ordered one myself as well!

    Does anyone know if the installation tool/key - I think its the TL-EW02.

    Cheers
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    No 49cm frames. :(
    N
    N+1
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    jgarpotter wrote:
    CGRenn wrote:
    Even better, it seems to be the 2013 is frame available in 54cm not the 2012 but at the same price. Matt Gray/Black. ordered tonight. Can not wait!!!

    Just ordered one myself as well!

    Does anyone know if the installation tool/key - I think its the TL-EW02.

    Cheers

    Doubt it comes with it but you can call them to be sure. I ordered mine from Winstanleys.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • jgarpotter
    jgarpotter Posts: 83
    DKay wrote:
    No 49cm frames. :(

    This is the 2012 frameset (grey) but your size is in stock here:

    http://www.cycledivision.co.uk/product- ... id353.html
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    Would anyone recommend Carbon Paste for the bike build? Is it necessary?
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    I finally managed to get out for a test ride on mine tonight. First impressions are it's way stiffer than my other carbon bike, it's a slightly harsher ride but not uncomfortable.

    I didn't feel great as I had a skinful of ale yesterday, but still managed to smash my fastest speed on a straight downhill segment, in around 10 attempts I managed a max speed of 44mph, tonight I did 49.5! It just felt like it surged forward when I hammered the pedals. It also felt better up the relatively short climbs, I know most people will say a bike won't make you faster but it just feels fast!

    I'm chuffed with it anyway, going to Holmfirth/Holme Moss tomorrow for a proper test.
  • jgarpotter
    jgarpotter Posts: 83
    I presume it does, but can you use 25mm tyres with the frameset?
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    Yes.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    This morning I did 57 miles and over 5,000ft of climbing, including Holme Moss on my Foil. It's an amazing bike, I can't believe how different it feels to my other carbon bike. It's only downside is that on poor road surfaces the ride is very rough as it's so stiff. Other than that though it's very comfortable, I got off after today's ride with no issues at all. I'm doing a 100 mile sportive on it next weekend so I'll see how it feels when I'm on it for 6hrs+.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    25c or 23c tyres, NorvernRob? I run 25c on mine.

    I've found my Volagi to be as quick as my Foil - but then it was at least as pricey so that's a good thing
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    Slighty off topic , did anyone use Carbon Paste on the build?
  • iron-clover
    iron-clover Posts: 737
    CGRenn wrote:
    Slighty off topic , did anyone use Carbon Paste on the build?

    If you have any carbon surfaces that need clamping, even if they are being clamped within an alloy housing then you will need carbon paste.
    Bearing in mind the frame is carbon- irrespective of seatpost material (would assume carbon as well...) you will need carbon paste to secure it/ help prevent seizing.
    If you have carbon bars or stem, then you need it there too.
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    meanredspider wrote:
    25c or 23c tyres, NorvernRob? I run 25c on mine.

    I've found my Volagi to be as quick as my Foil - but then it was at least as pricey so that's a good thing

    23, but will go 25 next time to smooth out the ride a little on rough roads.
  • jgarpotter
    jgarpotter Posts: 83
    Has anyone got a picture of their build?
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    iron-clover wrote:
    CGRenn wrote:
    Slighty off topic , did anyone use Carbon Paste on the build?

    If you have any carbon surfaces that need clamping, even if they are being clamped within an alloy housing then you will need carbon paste.
    Bearing in mind the frame is carbon- irrespective of seatpost material (would assume carbon as well...) you will need carbon paste to secure it/ help prevent seizing.
    If you have carbon bars or stem, then you need it there too.

    Ahh lovely ill order some off wiggle, thanks for your help mate
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    jgarpotter wrote:
    Has anyone got a picture of their build?

    There's a few on this thread - mine's on page 2
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Bozman
    Bozman Posts: 2,518
    Be careful with your choice of carbon paste because it'll end up leaving your seatpost looking like it's had a rub down with P60 glass-paper.
    I'd never used it and I'd never had an issue , I used Finishline paste on a build and it destroyed the clear coat and graphic on the seatpost, I won't be going down that alley again.
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    Bozman wrote:
    Be careful with your choice of carbon paste because it'll end up leaving your seatpost looking like it's had a rub down with P60 glass-paper.
    I'd never used it and I'd never had an issue , I used Finishline paste on a build and it destroyed the clear coat and graphic on the seatpost, I won't be going down that alley again.

    I read the same elsewhere, so I just ended up putting a very small amount of grease on the post, then wiping it off to just leave a tiny amount of residue. I clamped it up to 8nm (it's marked 6-10, no grease on the bolt!) and it didn't move on a 4hr ride so I'm happy that it isn't going to move or seize.
  • mitchgixer6
    mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    Surely it doesn't really matter if the paste marks your seat post? It'll only mark the bit you can't see!
  • jgarpotter
    jgarpotter Posts: 83
    Received my frameset + groupset today, it does come with the plug tool for Di2.
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Love my Foil. 2013 Team Issue mechanical frame with Campagnolo SR and Reynolds 46 tubs. 6.3kg with pedals, bottle cages and Garmin (but without spare tub). Not a great photo, sorry - need to take one outside:

    image5.jpg

    I would echo some of the previous comments about it not being unduly harsh. It's just a great all-round bike, fast, light, stiff and handles superbly.
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    Recieved mine today too! It has come with the bb already pressed in :/ anybody know how to remove this without the tool or am I going to go down to the LBS
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    CGRenn wrote:
    Recieved mine today too! It has come with the bb already pressed in :/ anybody know how to remove this without the tool or am I going to go down to the LBS
    You can do it very carefully with a large flat-headed screw driver and a hammer. From one side insert the screwdriver so that it is pressing against the edge of the press-in cup on the other side. If I remember the Shimano BB has a plastic sleeve so when you are doing this there is no real risk at this stage of scratching the carbon of the BB shell. Tap with the hammer a few times, then do the same at 180 degrees, then at other points around the cup until it eases out reasonably evenly. Then do the same on the other side, except you may have to be more careful not to scratch the inside of the BB shell if the sleeve came out with the cup at the other side. You may need to give it a few quite hard bangs at first but you won't damage the shell as long as the screwdriver isn't touching carbon and you knock out the cup reasonably evenly. It helps that the Shimano BB is made out of a relatively soft plastic.

    That makes it sound more difficult than it is, it's pretty easy actually.
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    neeb wrote:
    CGRenn wrote:
    Recieved mine today too! It has come with the bb already pressed in :/ anybody know how to remove this without the tool or am I going to go down to the LBS
    You can do it very carefully with a large flat-headed screw driver and a hammer. From one side insert the screwdriver so that it is pressing against the edge of the press-in cup on the other side. If I remember the Shimano BB has a plastic sleeve so when you are doing this there is no real risk at this stage of scratching the carbon of the BB shell. Tap with the hammer a few times, then do the same at 180 degrees, then at other points around the cup until it eases out reasonably evenly. Then do the same on the other side, except you may have to be more careful not to scratch the inside of the BB shell if the sleeve came out with the cup at the other side. You may need to give it a few quite hard bangs at first but you won't damage the shell as long as the screwdriver isn't touching carbon and you knock out the cup reasonably evenly. It helps that the Shimano BB is made out of a relatively soft plastic.

    That makes it sound more difficult than it is, it's pretty easy actually.

    Would you sagest wrapping the screwdriver with a T-shirt or something? Stop any chance of it scratching? Thank you for your detailed reply :)
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    CGRenn wrote:
    Would you sagest wrapping the screwdriver with a T-shirt or something? Stop any chance of it scratching? Thank you for your detailed reply :)
    I doubt that would make much difference. Just take your time and make sure you have plenty of illumination so you can see what you are hitting..

    This is what the BB looks like. When you are removing the first cup by inserting the screwdriver through the hole for the spindle on the other side, you can't really directly damage the BB shell because it is shielded by the sleeve. Just try to knock it out evenly and be careful that the screwdriver doesn't slip when/after the cup pops out and the carbon becomes exposed.

    When you are removing the other cup without the sleeve in place you can place the screwdriver in the slot between the outer and inner plastic lips (if it will fit) or inside the inner one. Just be very careful it''s in the right place each time before whacking it, especially since you are moving it around a lot to get the cup to come out evenly.

    sh14050.jpg

    You will probably slightly damage the plastic of the BB itself when you are removing it. It's worth trying to minimise this as you can flog the BB on ebay afterwards for a few quid if it's in usable condition..
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    Just had a quick go and it worked ! Thanks for your help neeb.

    I have the day off work tomorrow to do the build and was just lying everything down. What size cables go were? I have the following;

    1 X 300mm

    2x350mm

    1x600mm

    1x700mm

    1x1000mm

    thanks for all your help once again all
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Are they Campagnolo cables? First thing to do is separate the gear ones from the brake ones. They are different (gear cables are thinner with smaller stops), and you really don't want to get them confused.. :wink: Have you built a bike before? Most difficult and time-consuming thing is the cabling, especially on an internally routed frame like the Foil...

    <edit> since you mention 5 lengths I guess these are the outers. They are also brake and gear specific, gear ones are slightly narrower. Probably there are three gear outers, two of the same length and a third that is for the loop from the chainstay to rear dérailleur, and two brake ones. You probably need to cut a length off of the longest brake cable to make the loop that goes from the exit point on the rear of the top tube to the rear brake.

    <double edit> oops, you listed 6 not 5, so you only need to cut them to length. The shortest brake cable will be for the rear brake loop, the longest one for the rear brake and the medium one for the front brake I guess.
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    neeb wrote:
    Are they Campagnolo cables? First thing to do is separate the gear ones from the brake ones. They are different (gear cables are thinner with smaller stops), and you really don't want to get them confused.. :wink: Have you built a bike before? Most difficult and time-consuming thing is the cabling, especially on an internally routed frame like the Foil...

    <edit> since you mention 5 lengths I guess these are the outers. They are also brake and gear specific, gear ones are slightly narrower. Probably there are three gear outers, two of the same length and a third that is for the loop from the chainstay to rear dérailleur, and two brake ones. You probably need to cut a length off of the longest brake cable to make the loop that goes from the exit point on the rear of the top tube to the rear brake.

    <double edit> oops, you listed 6 not 5, so you only need to cut them to length. The shortest brake cable will be for the rear brake loop, the longest one for the rear brake and the medium one for the front brake I guess.

    Dude, these are Di2 cables...
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • cgrenn
    cgrenn Posts: 206
    neeb wrote:
    Are they Campagnolo cables? First thing to do is separate the gear ones from the brake ones. They are different (gear cables are thinner with smaller stops), and you really don't want to get them confused.. :wink: Have you built a bike before? Most difficult and time-consuming thing is the cabling, especially on an internally routed frame like the Foil...

    <edit> since you mention 5 lengths I guess these are the outers. They are also brake and gear specific, gear ones are slightly narrower. Probably there are three gear outers, two of the same length and a third that is for the loop from the chainstay to rear dérailleur, and two brake ones. You probably need to cut a length off of the longest brake cable to make the loop that goes from the exit point on the rear of the top tube to the rear brake.

    <double edit> oops, you listed 6 not 5, so you only need to cut them to length. The shortest brake cable will be for the rear brake loop, the longest one for the rear brake and the medium one for the front brake I guess.

    I have indeed but only one build,

    This is all a Di2 build neeb with Di2 internal cables.

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