Scott Foil - Westbrook Cycles

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Comments

  • brettjmcc
    brettjmcc Posts: 1,361
    For those in the know, do you think that the offer will come up again in more sizes on the frames? Looking to replace my best bike next year for my 40th. Looking at the size chart on the Scott website, I think I would be a S as I have a 77cm inseam and am about 171cm
    BMC GF01
    Quintana Roo Cd01
    Project High End Hack
    Cannondale Synapse SL (gone)
    I like Carbon
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    If they do it won't be for at least a couple months. I do expect the used to become saturated as people become bored.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    I've no idea but wouldn't they have been given any 2014 stock to clear by now so you'd have to wait for the 2015 clearout next year? Hope so, or I might have hung on for an Addict HMX SL.....
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    londoncommuter wrote:
    I've no idea but wouldn't they have been given any 2014 stock to clear by now so you'd have to wait for the 2015 clearout next year? Hope so, or I might have hung on for an Addict HMX SL.....

    Dibs :P
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • brettjmcc
    brettjmcc Posts: 1,361
    Thanks Grill, timing may work for me, as probably looking to wait a few months until maybe after Christmas, unless a really good offer came up now :)
    BMC GF01
    Quintana Roo Cd01
    Project High End Hack
    Cannondale Synapse SL (gone)
    I like Carbon
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Personally, I wouldn't be holding my breath for any more amazing HMX Foil / Di2 deals to be springing up soon. As far as I know and what Westbrooks told me, the offer was a one-off deal and once the current 2013 Di2 Foil frames are gone, they won't be coming back so cheaply in 2014 form or otherwise.

    Scott made loads of 2013 Foil Di2 frames and painted them up, but Shimano let them down with supply of the Di2 groupsets. Westbrooks have a lot of buying power with Scott, so they got them at a great price and are able to pass the savings down to the customer.

    Unfortunately, it looks like you missed out. :/
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  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    What do you reckon? £300 more than the Foil deal, no seatpost and you'd always know you didn't have the top of the range with the HMX-SL being out there:

    http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 14-p241072

    Tempting though. Anyone want to buy a 54cm unbuilt Foil still in the box.....
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    londoncommuter wrote:
    What do you reckon? £300 more than the Foil deal, no seatpost and you'd always know you didn't have the top of the range with the HMX-SL being out there:

    http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 14-p241072

    Tempting though. Anyone want to buy a 54cm unbuilt Foil still in the box.....
    Foil is stiffer, only 100g heavier and looks better IMO. However, MO may be biased because I have one.. :)
  • pippi_langsamer-2
    pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,470
    Addict will probably be more compliant/ comfier.

    I have an HMX Foil but not ridden yet.

    Had an Addict years ago- great bike.
  • hugo15
    hugo15 Posts: 1,101
    I'm tempted by the CR1 deal. Westbrooks are my LBS too, might have to pop in on Saturday :-)
  • page23
    page23 Posts: 182
    I recently picked up one of these second hand already built. To those that have built them up, I would like to ask some advice about the plugs that help secure in the electric cables on the downtube and rear stay at the rear mech. I have a few plugs but am finding them tricky to fit and I'm not convinced they're the right ones. Could anyone tell me which ones they used, or better yet, take a quick snap of their bike with them fitted, please?

    Any help is most appreciated.
  • pippi_langsamer-2
    pippi_langsamer-2 Posts: 1,470
    Page23 wrote:
    I recently picked up one of these second hand already built. To those that have built them up, I would like to ask some advice about the plugs that help secure in the electric cables on the downtube and rear stay at the rear mech. I have a few plugs but am finding them tricky to fit and I'm not convinced they're the right ones. Could anyone tell me which ones they used, or better yet, take a quick snap of their bike with them fitted, please?

    Any help is most appreciated.

    The plugs that are slightly more ovalized go in the top of the downtube while the smaller, less ovalized ones go in the end of the chain-stay.

    They do have a tendency to pop out initially, but seem to stay put once you give them a stern talking to :idea:
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Page23 wrote:
    I recently picked up one of these second hand already built. To those that have built them up, I would like to ask some advice about the plugs that help secure in the electric cables on the downtube and rear stay at the rear mech. I have a few plugs but am finding them tricky to fit and I'm not convinced they're the right ones. Could anyone tell me which ones they used, or better yet, take a quick snap of their bike with them fitted, please?

    Any help is most appreciated.

    Look at the bottom of page 16 of this thread. I had the same issue and ended up trimming the internal lip of the larger oval grommets to make them fit and stay put. I also used a little blob of shoe goo later on, to make them even more secure and totally water-tight and it can still be easily removed later. The smaller, rounder grommet will fit into the rear mech cable hole without requiring modification as already said.
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  • page23
    page23 Posts: 182
    Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. Other than modification, did you try to use anything to guide the downtube plug in? I may carefully try a small flat head screw driver.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    No, I just shoved it in (that's what she said).
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  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    What's everyone's thoughts on spacers for the stem? I'd previously thought that you should run 5mm above the stem to minimise the clamping force on the very top of the steerer and hadn't heard about a minimum under the stem. Seems I'm completely wrong according to Scott who positively mention spacers above and in fact warn about using more than 5mm and insist on 5mm below:

    Do not use more than 5mm stack height of spacer above the stem between the topcap of the headset and the stem.

    Do use minimum 5mm stack height of spacer below the stem between the cap of the headset and the stem.


    I don't want to run anything below the stem and was only going with a spacer above as I thought that was the safer option. Has anyone got any insight into this?

    Many thanks
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    I ran my stem slammed right on top of the headset cap at first with out issue, but since my bike fit, I now run with a 10mm spacer.

    Looking at pros Scott Foils, they do all seem to be running a 5mm spacer under their stems.

    http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/pho ... oil/249892

    http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/arti ... oil-39686/
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  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    The limit to the spacer height above the stem will be because of the length of the steerer bung - the one supplied is quite short so if you have too many spacers above the stem the bung won't extend down far enough to support the steerer tube internally underneath where it is clamped by the lower stem bolt.

    I always use the deda bungs which are a little longer, so there is no doubt about the whole clamping area being equally supported internally even with 1cm above the stem.
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    Mine is sat right on the headset with a 5mm spacer above.
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    neeb wrote:
    The limit to the spacer height above the stem will be because of the length of the steerer bung - the one supplied is quite short so if you have too many spacers above the stem the bung won't extend down far enough to support the steerer tube internally underneath where it is clamped by the lower stem bolt.

    That makes sense to me but as it's allowed, I'd probably go for the 5mm spacer above the stem just to reduce any crushing from the top bolt on the stem.

    Why the minimum 5mm space below the stem though?
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    londoncommuter wrote:
    Why the minimum 5mm space below the stem though?
    I've never quite understood that either, although it is widely recommended. I think a few years back there was a spate of Trek steerer tubes failing at the junction between the headset and the stem (all had slammed stems). Ever since then Trek and some other companies have recommended at least a 5mm spacer below the stem. I've never completely understood why however, or for that matter if there would be any difference between a 5mm spacer and a taller headset top cap (can't think why there should be).

    All I can think of is that perhaps if there is some length of steerer tube between the headset proper and the stem it is able to flex very slightly under extreme loads and so distribute the forces a little (the thin carbon spacers wouldn't offer significant resistance to flexing). If the stem is slammed there is almost no length of steerer tube between the completely rigid headset bearings and the completely rigid stem, so the forces would be concentrated on one very small area. Happy to be corrected though.
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    I'd spotted that it was Trek that seemed to be pushing the 5mm spacer below the stem idea but couldn't find a reason. Just found this from their 2010 manual which at least attempts to explain:

    Below the stem
    Always place at least one 5mm spacer below the stem. This spacer is in addition to the bearing
    cover (Figure 1), which must be at least 5mm. If the stem rests against the bearing cover, a point
    load is created on the steerer that could eventually cause the steerer to break.

    They do go on to say FSA stems aren't compatible with their forks which just seems to be putting the boot into another company!

    http://www.bike-manual.com/brands/trek/ ... 0701PN.pdf
  • Ltropp
    Ltropp Posts: 1
    Framekit from cycledivision :D
    http://www.cykelgalleri.dk/galleri/27772-scott_foil_15
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    Sorry one last question (that's a complete lie - I'll have loads more once I start to build it....), I've seen a few comments about the standard steerer bung being rubbish. Is that really the case or have loads of you had no issues? Tricky reading forums as you only ever see negative comments.

    Thanks
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    No issues with mine with a 10mm spacer under and above the stem.
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  • hstiles
    hstiles Posts: 414
    londoncommuter wrote:
    Sorry one last question (that's a complete lie - I'll have loads more once I start to build it....), I've seen a few comments about the standard steerer bung being rubbish. Is that really the case or have loads of you had no issues? Tricky reading forums as you only ever see negative comments.
    Thanks

    The one on mind was pretty rubbish, I swapped it out with an FSA carbon steerer 'expander' bung.
  • matt-h
    matt-h Posts: 847
    I normally sway mine for a longer Deda one.
    I didn't on the Foil and have had no problems

    Matt
    Scott Foil Di2 viewtopic.php?f=40044&t=13020685&p=19496365#p19496365
    Genesis Volare 853 viewtopic.php?f=40044&t=13020702&p=19589281#p19589281
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    On the closing stages now (very entertaining threading the internal gear cables last night....) and just putting the battery in the seatpost. Westbrooks kindly sent me one of these but it seems too chunky for the Foil seatpost.

    http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycli ... -9-31-6mm/

    The one they sent is the larger version (MSP25 for internal diameter 24.5mm to 28mm) whereas there's also smaller version (MSP24 for internal diameter 20mm to 23mm):

    http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycli ... -2-28-6mm/

    With it's ovalised shape, the width (which is narrower) is actually 23mm so have I got the wrong one? Did anyone else fit these?

    Many thanks for all your tips.
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    londoncommuter wrote:
    On the closing stages now (very entertaining threading the internal gear cables last night....) and just putting the battery in the seatpost. Westbrooks kindly sent me one of these but it seems too chunky for the Foil seatpost.

    http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycli ... -9-31-6mm/

    The one they sent is the larger version (MSP25 for internal diameter 24.5mm to 28mm) whereas there's also smaller version (MSP24 for internal diameter 20mm to 23mm):

    http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycli ... -2-28-6mm/

    With it's ovalised shape, the width (which is narrower) is actually 23mm so have I got the wrong one? Did anyone else fit these?

    Many thanks for all your tips.

    Don't worry - I just pushed it down firmly. Nice and snug.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    londoncommuter wrote:
    londoncommuter wrote:
    On the closing stages now (very entertaining threading the internal gear cables last night....) and just putting the battery in the seatpost. Westbrooks kindly sent me one of these but it seems too chunky for the Foil seatpost.

    http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycli ... -9-31-6mm/

    The one they sent is the larger version (MSP25 for internal diameter 24.5mm to 28mm) whereas there's also smaller version (MSP24 for internal diameter 20mm to 23mm):

    http://www.madison.co.uk/products/cycli ... -2-28-6mm/

    With it's ovalised shape, the width (which is narrower) is actually 23mm so have I got the wrong one? Did anyone else fit these?

    Many thanks for all your tips.

    Don't worry - I just pushed it down firmly. Nice and snug.

    Too snug in my opinion. It's going to be a nightmare to get out later on if you ever need to. After pushing mine in, I tried to pull it out again, only to rip off the tabs. So I'm probably going to have to use molegrips in future. If I'd read this earlier, I'd have advised you to use foam packing, bubble wrap or pipe lagging instead.
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