Scott Foil - Westbrook Cycles

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Comments

  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Honestly, I'd always stick with the external battery. It's so little bother.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • DKay wrote:

    Too snug in my opinion. It's going to be a nightmare to get out later on if you ever need to. After pushing mine in, I tried to pull it out again, only to rip off the tabs. So I'm probably going to have to use molegrips in future. If I'd read this earlier, I'd have advised you to use foam packing, bubble wrap or pipe lagging instead.

    You're right! I realised that it would be better to have the end tabs aligned front to back to stop as they stick out slightly and rub on the inside of the seat tube as you insert the seat post so I needed to turn it 90 degrees. No chance is that coming out! I suppose it doesn't matter as it shouldn't need to?

    Last question, just putting on the front mech. It looks like you lose the metal washer that comes with the mech and just use the thicker carbon one that came with the frame, is that right?
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    DKay wrote:

    Too snug in my opinion. It's going to be a nightmare to get out later on if you ever need to. After pushing mine in, I tried to pull it out again, only to rip off the tabs. So I'm probably going to have to use molegrips in future. If I'd read this earlier, I'd have advised you to use foam packing, bubble wrap or pipe lagging instead.

    You're right! I realised that it would be better to have the end tabs aligned front to back to stop as they stick out slightly and rub on the inside of the seat tube as you insert the seat post so I needed to turn it 90 degrees. No chance is that coming out! I suppose it doesn't matter as it shouldn't need to?

    Last question, just putting on the front mech. It looks like you lose the metal washer that comes with the mech and just use the thicker carbon one that came with the frame, is that right?

    Yep, that's right. Go back a few pages and you'll see that I had the same question. Think it's only supposed to be orientated one way around as one edge is thicker than the other.

    *edit* Page 16
  • Gutted.

    Just about finished lovingly building up my Foil and my wife, who knows nothing about bikes whatsoever, says "shouldn't it have those bigger wheels like in the Tour de France?".

    Deep down I know an aero frame like a Foil doesn't look right with Pacenti SL23 rims and is crying out for some bling 50mm carbon but I've managed to deny it to myself until this.....

    Have I really got to swap aluminium brake tracks, wider rims and a boat load of money for aesthetics???

    Thanks everyone for their tips along the way. I suppose one final question - what did you use to cover the two holes below the bottle cage on the down tube? I assume these are for an external battery. I had two random bolts in the box with the frame but these are slightly too big for the holes I think.
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    Gutted.

    Just about finished lovingly building up my Foil and my wife, who knows nothing about bikes whatsoever, says "shouldn't it have those bigger wheels like in the Tour de France?".

    Deep down I know an aero frame like a Foil doesn't look right with Pacenti SL23 rims and is crying out for some bling 50mm carbon but I've managed to deny it to myself until this.....

    Have I really got to swap aluminium brake tracks, wider rims and a boat load of money for aesthetics???

    Thanks everyone for their tips along the way. I suppose one final question - what did you use to cover the two holes below the bottle cage on the down tube? I assume these are for an external battery. I had two random bolts in the box with the frame but these are slightly too big for the holes I think.

    Unless you ride on the flat all the time, don't bother wasting your money on deep rims. My foil has Zipp 202 tubs on for weight reduction and I wouldn't dream of adding over half a kilo just so the bike could look better to some people! It's what you want it for and what you want on it that matters.
  • Gutted.

    Just about finished lovingly building up my Foil and my wife, who knows nothing about bikes whatsoever, says "shouldn't it have those bigger wheels like in the Tour de France?".

    Deep down I know an aero frame like a Foil doesn't look right with Pacenti SL23 rims and is crying out for some bling 50mm carbon but I've managed to deny it to myself until this.....

    Have I really got to swap aluminium brake tracks, wider rims and a boat load of money for aesthetics???

    Thanks everyone for their tips along the way. I suppose one final question - what did you use to cover the two holes below the bottle cage on the down tube? I assume these are for an external battery. I had two random bolts in the box with the frame but these are slightly too big for the holes I think.

    Pm me your address and I'll post you a couple of bolts that fit. They're slightly smaller than standard bottle cage . I ordered some off eBay but had to order min 5.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    edited February 2015
    Thanks everyone for their tips along the way. I suppose one final question - what did you use to cover the two holes below the bottle cage on the down tube? I assume these are for an external battery. I had two random bolts in the box with the frame but these are slightly too big for the holes I think.

    When I bought my Elite bottle cages, they came attached to a piece of card with a couple of plastic popper-type buttons. By some sheer fluke, I found that the top half of the buttons securely fit into the holes on the downtube perfectly.

    Oh, and you don't need deep rims to make a Foil look good.

    IMAG2855_zpsa59832a5.jpg
  • Gutted.

    Just about finished lovingly building up my Foil and my wife, who knows nothing about bikes whatsoever, says "shouldn't it have those bigger wheels like in the Tour de France?".

    Deep down I know an aero frame like a Foil doesn't look right with Pacenti SL23 rims and is crying out for some bling 50mm carbon but I've managed to deny it to myself until this.....

    Have I really got to swap aluminium brake tracks, wider rims and a boat load of money for aesthetics???

    Thanks everyone for their tips along the way. I suppose one final question - what did you use to cover the two holes below the bottle cage on the down tube? I assume these are for an external battery. I had two random bolts in the box with the frame but these are slightly too big for the holes I think.

    Have some pacenti SL23 on my foil and very pleased with the ride and its performance it the French mountains last summer. If only it had a better engine...... :wink:
  • Just posted this in workshop (with glamorous photos). Can anyone give me some pointers:

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13015503

    Many thanks
  • Sorry, this really is the last set of questions I promise. I've just added this to workshop:

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=13015677

    Also, Scott kindly include cab rub protectors with the frame but where have people actually used them? With di2 and the tidy internal brake routing, there doesn't seem to be much need.

    Final final question, say you'd been stupid and when setting the front mech up the chain was thrown on to your lovely new Ultegra chainset leaving a 3mm scratch, can you get touch up paint......
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    I've only used one cable protection sticker on the right of the headtube, where the e-tube wire rests. As for touch-up paint, think of it as your bike being christened.
  • Erm...if anyone's requiring a set-back post for a Foil I might be able to help :roll:
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    Used mine twice now and the swines make it obsolete......

    http://cyclingtips.com.au/2015/06/first-look-review-2016-scott-foil/

    Not sure about the ugly front end though.
  • Bold claims and all that blah, blah, blah…..

    But if their claims are that the new Foil is as compliant as the Addict AND more aero, stiffer etc than the old Foil…….then I think this might just be setting a pretty high benchmark…
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Used mine twice now and the swines make it obsolete......

    Yes, but we didn't pay £2600 RRP for our frames, which should compensate a little.
  • londoncommuter
    londoncommuter Posts: 1,550
    Used mine twice now and the swines make it obsolete......

    Yes, but we didn't pay £2600 RRP for our frames, which should compensate a little.

    Absolutely. My whole build didn't cost that.

    I bet there's some incredible deals at Westbrooks in a couple of months though.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652

    I hope that's an XL size. Otherwise, it's one gopping frame.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    So, it seems like Scott have had to redesign everything, in over to just save 6W at 45km/h. Which says that there wasn't a whole lot wrong with the original Foil. Scott also say that the new frame is lighter, but it's actually heavier than the old HMX frame.
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Pity about the horrible black & fluro paint jobs on the high-end models, I hope there's at least one option for the HMX frameset that isn't like that!

    Haussler's bike looks so much better than the consumer models, partially because it has a proper paint job and partially because it has a normal stem. Looks like the integrated headset thingy might be compatible with any standard stem.

    Not that I'm in the market for one, perfectly happy with my current Foil and it's a silly time to buy a high-end frame what with all of the changes that will be happening when disk brakes are introduced to the pro peloton next year.
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Just been out for a fast club run this morning on my old Foil (first time in a while) and it reminded me why it's such a great bike. My Cayo Evo is a good ride, but the Foil is much more reactive to rider inputs.
  • norvernrob
    norvernrob Posts: 1,448
    Just been out for a fast club run this morning on my old Foil (first time in a while) and it reminded me why it's such a great bike. My Cayo Evo is a good ride, but the Foil is much more reactive to rider inputs.

    I've been riding my Foil almost exclusively this year, I got my Cube Peloton off the turbo this morning and took that instead as the weather was rubbish. I'd forgotten the difference, the ride on the Cube was absolutely dead in comparison to the Foil. It felt slow to react and pretty lifeless.

    Off-topic, but I'd also forgotten how bad the Yksion tyres that came with the Aksion wheels are in the wet. My back wheel was slipping going up a climb, then I was just turning right onto my drive, literally 5 yards from where I get off and the bike disappeared from under me and I was laid on the road. I was going probably 5mph max with no brake on, it's a newly laid surface but losing grip at this speed was terrible.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    I've been horribly spoiled by my best bikes. I don't think I noticed the difference moving to them but going back really shows up the difference. Rode a cheaper aluminium frame recently and it felt like a dead fish.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    Quick update and a big shout out to Westbrook Cycles' excellent customer service. The front shifting on my Di2 Team Issue frame has been a bit dodgy ever since I've built it up (the issue I had is documented on page 16
    of this thread) and last week I couldn't get the front mech to change up to the big ring. Took the bike in to Westbrooks to look at last Friday and they diagnosed that the front mech hanger was indeed, dodgy and had split sightly. They ordered in another frame under warrantee, took all of the stuff off my old frame, refitted everything and I collected it today. Spot on.

    Quick question though folks; for those people who have a Team Issue or similar HMX frame, on the front of the seatpost where the Ritchey logo is, does it say 'HMF Carbon' or 'HMX Carbon' underneath? Reason I ask is that the seatpost which is fitted to my new Team Issue frame says 'HMF', but I would have thought it should say HMX to match the frame?
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473
    Quick question though folks; for those people who have a Team Issue or similar HMX frame, on the front of the seatpost where the Ritchey logo is, does it say 'HMF Carbon' or 'HMX Carbon' underneath? Reason I ask is that the seatpost which is fitted to my new Team Issue frame says 'HMF', but I would have thought it should say HMX to match the frame?
    I'd actually never noticed that tiny almost illegible red writing before... but mine says HMF too and the frame is an HMX team issue (bought from a German online retailer). So I guess that the seatposts are all HMF.

    I have my doubts about the whole HMX / HMF thing TBH. I wouldn't be surprised if the frames all come out of the same manufacturing process at slightly different individual weights and Scott just label the heavier 50% as HMF and the lighter 50% as HMX... :wink:
  • DKay
    DKay Posts: 1,652
    It wouldn't surprise me also. Cheers for the clarification though, puts my mind at ease. :)
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    Quick question though folks; for those people who have a Team Issue or similar HMX frame, on the front of the seatpost where the Ritchey logo is, does it say 'HMF Carbon' or 'HMX Carbon' underneath? Reason I ask is that the seatpost which is fitted to my new Team Issue frame says 'HMF', but I would have thought it should say HMX to match the frame?
    I'd actually never noticed that tiny almost illegible red writing before... but mine says HMF too and the frame is an HMX team issue (bought from a German online retailer). So I guess that the seatposts are all HMF.

    I have my doubts about the whole HMX / HMF thing TBH. I wouldn't be surprised if the frames all come out of the same manufacturing process at slightly different individual weights and Scott just label the heavier 50% as HMF and the lighter 50% as HMX... :wink:

    They don't. It's pretty easy to spot the difference as HMX frames use thinner tubing.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • neeb
    neeb Posts: 4,473

    I have my doubts about the whole HMX / HMF thing TBH. I wouldn't be surprised if the frames all come out of the same manufacturing process at slightly different individual weights and Scott just label the heavier 50% as HMF and the lighter 50% as HMX... :wink:

    They don't. It's pretty easy to spot the difference as HMX frames use thinner tubing.
    Good to know. So you can tell by tapping them, or can you see the thinner tubing in some places where the edges are exposed? I just know that there's a bit of overlap between the actual weights of the heaviest HMX frames and the lightest HMF ones, but maybe that's as much to do with the different paint jobs as anything else.
  • Grill
    Grill Posts: 5,610
    The painted frames are 40-60g heavier than the matte ones. The Foil was designed to ride the same regardless of carbon grade. HMX is simply stiffer than HMF which is why they can use less to lower weight whilst retaining ride characteristics.
    English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg
  • I thought I'd cut my cables to perfection but the rear brake is coming on when I turn the bars to the right. There is a slight "scraping" noise from inside the top tube as it happens. What's going on?

    The stiff Ultegra outer cable is maybe pushing the plastic cable stop slightly when I turn the bars which I guess is effectively enabling the inner to pull slightly which would be applying the brake. Not sure how this relates to the scraping noise although maybe the sound of the stop moving ever so slightly is being amplified.

    I've seen a bit about the plastic stops not being great. I'm not sure longer or shorter outer would stop it being shoved to the right a bit though. Presumably it can't be a problem with the frame itself?

    Has anyone had the same thing?

    I should have said, I've used the bike four of five times and haven't noticed this before so something must have changed.
  • I thought I'd cut my cables to perfection but the rear brake is coming on when I turn the bars to the right. There is a slight "scraping" noise from inside the top tube as it happens. What's going on?

    The stiff Ultegra outer cable is maybe pushing the plastic cable stop slightly when I turn the bars which I guess is effectively enabling the inner to pull slightly which would be applying the brake. Not sure how this relates to the scraping noise although maybe the sound of the stop moving ever so slightly is being amplified.

    I've seen a bit about the plastic stops not being great. I'm not sure longer or shorter outer would stop it being shoved to the right a bit though. Presumably it can't be a problem with the frame itself?

    Has anyone had the same thing?

    I should have said, I've used the bike four of five times and haven't noticed this before so something must have changed.

    Here's the cabling if it makes a difference to anyone's thoughts:

    2lbz34g.jpg