FUGIO is back as a Ridley!!!!
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Got the new Pacenti SL 25 rims to review and so I built myself a set of lightweights...
left the forum March 20230 -
Yip!.......looking well is that.........0
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johnnymcg259 wrote:Yip!.......looking well is that.........
Just need to nag my wife to recoat the Fizik Arione with some dark brown leather skin to match the bar tape...left the forum March 20230 -
I really like your bike, with the carbon fork and light wheels. Do you think I could create a similar bike with my Salsa Vaya, by replacing the steel fork for a carbon one , and a set of light disc specific wheels? I have a ride in the Alps next year, and , being a cautious descender, I thought the disc brakes would be better for me. I just want to take a bit of weight off the bike for the mountains.
Any recommendations for disc specific carbon road forks ?
How are the new wheels by the way?0 -
English John wrote:I really like your bike, with the carbon fork and light wheels. Do you think I could create a similar bike with my Salsa Vaya, by replacing the steel fork for a carbon one , and a set of light disc specific wheels? I have a ride in the Alps next year, and , being a cautious descender, I thought the disc brakes would be better for me. I just want to take a bit of weight off the bike for the mountains.
Any recommendations for disc specific carbon road forks ?
How are the new wheels by the way?
There aren't many carbon disc forks for 1 1/8 steerers and you need a cross one, road ones won;t work with your frame geometry, the Kinesis is the only only one that springs to mind. You will shed 200 grams there and get a stiffer fork, it's worth doing. As for the wheels, you can probably shed around a pound from the factory setup, but that's a more expensive upgrade, you are looking at 250-350 whichever way you go.
The ones I built are just over 1600 grams, but you can achieve the same figure with less expensive rims... although I would get tubeless rims, as tubeless tyres are safer in the event of a puncture at speed and they are better altogether, but again, pricier.
So yes, it is possible to make it into something a bit (not a lot) lighter and better, but it won't be cheap.left the forum March 20230 -
The only forks that may work is a kinesis dc37 or maybe the new genesis carbon forks on the croix de fer.0
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Thanks for the thoughts on the forks, and the wheels.
I will have a chat to Cycle Heaven in York. They sell both Salsa and Genesis, so they may have some ideas.
I have ridden 100k today on the bike, and enjoyed it very much (as usual), so I will take a slow look at any changes. Of course a good set of light disc wheels would be useful if I decided to get a disc specific carbon frame ...but funds for that aren't there !0 -
English John wrote:Of course a good set of light disc wheels would be useful if I decided to get a disc specific carbon frame ...but funds for that aren't there !
Save through the winter, you don't need them now. The temptation might be to get the Kinesis Crosslight V3, that tick all the boxes (weight and price), but I had people bringing them here for repairs and all of them had frozen alloy nipples, which made them unserviceable...left the forum March 20230 -
ugo.santalucia wrote:tubeless tyres are safer in the event of a puncture at speed
Out of interest, how so? Surely they'd be no different to a clincher or is it because tubeless set-ups typically use sealant?0 -
Ber Nard wrote:ugo.santalucia wrote:tubeless tyres are safer in the event of a puncture at speed
Out of interest, how so? Surely they'd be no different to a clincher or is it because tubeless set-ups typically use sealant?
The inner tube can tear badly and lose pressure in a second, tubeless tyres lose pressure slowly (and safely) or they seal and don't lose pressure at all. I had a shard of glass about half an inch through my rear tyre and took ages to go flat.left the forum March 20230 -
Makes sense. I suppose you can't blow a tyre like you can an inner tube. In that respect, would you say they're safer than tubs?0
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Paul 8v wrote:So are they a better rim than the H Plus son?
These are tubeless and if you want to run tubeless tyres, then yes, they are better, they will go down to 20-25 PSI without burping, for instance. If you are set on inner tubes, no need to spend extra money, Archetype are great rims. If you are really a weight weenie, these are 20 grams lighter per rim, not that I notice it on a CX setup...left the forum March 20230 -
Ber Nard wrote:Makes sense. I suppose you can't blow a tyre like you can an inner tube. In that respect, would you say they're safer than tubs?
No, because tubulars if glued properly will stay on the rim even with no pressure, while tubeless tyres might or might not, depending on the fit... the thing is in a tubeless tyre you should be able to notice that you have a flat and get to a safe stop before losing too much pressure, it will start spraying sealant all over the place as a warning...
The thing is most punctures you pick up on the road will be small enough and hence will be fixed without you even noticing. Even some rather large ones do get fixed, but in the process you lose pressure, which you then need to top upleft the forum March 20230 -
That's an impressively low PSI to be fairugo.santalucia wrote:Paul 8v wrote:So are they a better rim than the H Plus son?
These are tubeless and if you want to run tubeless tyres, then yes, they are better, they will go down to 20-25 PSI without burping, for instance. If you are set on inner tubes, no need to spend extra money, Archetype are great rims. If you are really a weight weenie, these are 20 grams lighter per rim, not that I notice it on a CX setup...0 -
Paul 8v wrote:
That's an impressively low PSI to be fairugo.santalucia wrote:Paul 8v wrote:So are they a better rim than the H Plus son?
These are tubeless and if you want to run tubeless tyres, then yes, they are better, they will go down to 20-25 PSI without burping, for instance. If you are set on inner tubes, no need to spend extra money, Archetype are great rims. If you are really a weight weenie, these are 20 grams lighter per rim, not that I notice it on a CX setup...
I rode them yesterday at 25 PSI for 90 minutes or so, never bottomed them... admittedly my track pump might not be that accurate in the low rangeleft the forum March 20230 -
I'm going to have to get involved with this at some point, the course I ride the most for the cross racing has some rabbit holes that sometimes bash the rim and can pinch flat a clincher but you want a lower PSI for the rest of the course. Tubeless is the future, just a shame there aren't more tyres out there for cross. (Yet)0
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Paul 8v wrote:I'm going to have to get involved with this at some point, the course I ride the most for the cross racing has some rabbit holes that sometimes bash the rim and can pinch flat a clincher but you want a lower PSI for the rest of the course. Tubeless is the future, just a shame there aren't more tyres out there for cross. (Yet)
They are coming... Ritchey is coming out with some very aggressive onesleft the forum March 20230 -
Excellent, I wish Schwalbe would release they ones they make as an OEM product for Giant. I like the Racing Ralph, the ultimate would be the Michelin Mud 2 (In green of course)0
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Accepted defeat and fitted a HT 2 cyclocross chainset... shame Shimano's silver is actually dark grey... but nevermind.
Tyres (XG TNT tubeless) are great BTW... the reviews for these are a bit lights & shades, but I find them very very good
left the forum March 20230 -
The wheels look good, especially with a bit of mud to tone down the stickers.0
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Very happy with the Shimano 36 x 46 chainset, perfect gear ratio for almost everything...
New leather skin coated Arione CX saddle courtesy of my wife, already managed to scratch it coming off a roundabout... I had the perfect race line around it, or maybe not... :roll:
Could do with a white stem, but maybe another time
left the forum March 20230 -
The dark wood fence and colour of the weeds add to the picture and compliments the bike My preference would be for a darker saddle but certainly a great looking bike, good work. Pinno, מלך אידיוט וחרא מכונאי0
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seanoconn wrote:The dark wood fence and colour of the weeds add to the picture and compliments the bike My preference would be for a darker saddle but certainly a great looking bike, good work.
She is practicing with leather, so this time is white... next time it might be blue or red or both, who knows... left the forum March 20230 -
Upsized the front rotor to a mega 180 mm one...
left the forum March 20230 -
Looks mean - I like it!
I put a 180 rotor on the front of my touring bike. Must say I haven't noticed the difference; have you?0 -
Ber Nard wrote:Looks mean - I like it!
I put a 180 rotor on the front of my touring bike. Must say I haven't noticed the difference; have you?
Maths say it should be 12.5% better, which is not huge. It seems marginally sharper... not life changing. My rationale was more to have a bigger heat sink rather than a more powerful brake.left the forum March 20230 -
I was hoping for a little more initial bite. I've a feeling that it's more down to the caliper set up, though. The back is exactly as I want it so I should be able to get the same feel at the front. I'm tempted to switch to organic pads but don't want to splash out if it can be solved with some spanner waggling.0
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Ber Nard wrote:I was hoping for a little more initial bite. I've a feeling that it's more down to the caliper set up, though. The back is exactly as I want it so I should be able to get the same feel at the front. I'm tempted to switch to organic pads but don't want to splash out if it can be solved with some spanner waggling.
What calipers do you have?
Organic pads are marginally better but last probably 1/4 of the mileage.left the forum March 20230 -
Hope X2. Part of a Hope V-Twin set-up.0
