The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Another site I discovered while searching was Airevelobearings.com. I'm wondering if they are 6.5mm thick; if so only a fiver each for the basic steel job. Bit more for stainless (which might make sense for a headset) and part ceramic (which doesn't)

    The Ritchey ones aren't too bad since you get a pair for your £20, and titanium is involved in some magical way...
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Airevelobearings are based in my region but they didnt have any in 7mm. My bike is virtually built up now so will have to take bars off again when the bearings turn up. Quick shakedown on zwift tomorrow to check gears and size set up as the weather is not exactly cycle friendly at the minute.
  • keyser__soze
    keyser__soze Posts: 2,067
    Right, it's not a CR1 but I believe my generation Addict has the same headset setup. Does anyone know how to remove the headset cups? A few blows with a headset cup removal tool and no joy, so I shone a torch down through the head tube and there appears to be a ring of carbon below the already-installed cups (like this, tho not my photo http://imgur.com/qbRLBw7) - the headset cup removal tool through seems to always slot in below this carbon ring and not the cups. Hope my hammering hasn't affected the carbon :oops:
    "Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
    "Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Keyser__Soze wrote:
    Right, it's not a CR1 but I believe my generation Addict has the same headset setup. Does anyone know how to remove the headset cups? A few blows with a headset cup removal tool and no joy, so I shone a torch down through the head tube and there appears to be a ring of carbon below the already-installed cups (like this, tho not my photo http://imgur.com/qbRLBw7) - the headset cup removal tool through seems to always slot in below this carbon ring and not the cups. Hope my hammering hasn't affected the carbon :oops:

    Do you need to remove them? I was assuming I'd leave mine in and just replace the cartridge bearings if the originals ever wear out. TBH I can't remember what my head tube looked like before I pressed in the cups, just that it took a lot of grunt to get them in. Surely there is a lip on the underside of the cup you can get at to bash it out?
  • keyser__soze
    keyser__soze Posts: 2,067
    LBS replaced headset ages ago with a BBB one with different bearing angles and it's never been 100%, fork always having a bit of fore-aft play unless tightened too tight to allow non-forced rotation, so I wanted to replace the whole lot, cups, crown race, bearings etc to be sure everything is compatible and correct. It does seem to be fine with the existing cups so I suspect the LBS left the original ones in there when replacing. Unfortunately there's no dimensions I can find for the depth of cups, bearings and crown race lip for the BBB one to compare with the Ritchey one to make sure there's no need to replace just in case they did swap out. I tried several times to get the tool to sit just on the cups and not the carbon ring but difficult to tell where it is and I didn't want to hammer away further on the carbon bits!
    "Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
    "Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Keyser__Soze wrote:
    LBS replaced headset ages ago with a BBB one with different bearing angles and it's never been 100%, fork always having a bit of fore-aft play unless tightened too tight to allow non-forced rotation, so I wanted to replace the whole lot, cups, crown race, bearings etc to be sure everything is compatible and correct. It does seem to be fine with the existing cups so I suspect the LBS left the original ones in there when replacing. Unfortunately there's no dimensions I can find for the depth of cups, bearings and crown race lip for the BBB one to compare with the Ritchey one to make sure there's no need to replace just in case they did swap out. I tried several times to get the tool to sit just on the cups and not the carbon ring but difficult to tell where it is and I didn't want to hammer away further on the carbon bits!

    Are you sure that you can replace the cups? From memory, aren't the cups in most carbon frames bonded in, essentially making them a non-replaceable part?
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    just put mine back together after returning from Mallorca and it feels like its time to replace the BB, very stiff but not gritty any recommendations?

    The original has been great so i could just go with another of the same, but you know upgrades and all that
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Been very happy with the Wheels Manufacturing one I got when my original one went after 500 miles or so:

    http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... compatible

    Very smooth, free and lovely after a further 2000 miles.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    itboffin wrote:
    just put mine back together after returning from Mallorca and it feels like its time to replace the BB, very stiff but not gritty any recommendations?

    The original has been great so i could just go with another of the same, but you know upgrades and all that

    The press-fit Shimano one in mine is still going strong and into its 4th year. If it ever packs up I'll probably go for the same again.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    davis wrote:
    Are you sure that you can replace the cups? From memory, aren't the cups in most carbon frames bonded in, essentially making them a non-replaceable part?

    Well the headset cups on the CR1 are definitely pressed in, but I'm planning on leaving them alone and just occasionally replacing the bearings themselves.
  • keyser__soze
    keyser__soze Posts: 2,067
    So the cups were the wrong size for the Ritchey bearings - caused rubbing of bottom of lower cup against fork when I tightened the top cap even slightly. Fortunately I managed to prise the cup out pretty easily crown-race style starting with a blade then a screwdriver, came out with very little force in the end. New cup fitted and all good now. I'll stick to the same cups and just replace bearings in the future now I know what they all are :)
    "Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
    "Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Keyser__Soze wrote:
    So the cups were the wrong size for the Ritchey bearings - caused rubbing of bottom of lower cup against fork when I tightened the top cap even slightly. Fortunately I managed to prise the cup out pretty easily crown-race style starting with a blade then a screwdriver, came out with very little force in the end. New cup fitted and all good now. I'll stick to the same cups and just replace bearings in the future now I know what they all are :)

    Excellent! I do like a happy ending :)
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    i had issues with my original seatpost collar not holding last week in Mallorca, it happened again today, even at 3nm both sides of the collar touch with part of the bolt protruding the thread.

    Anyone else had issues or replaced theirs?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Mine is pretty close to meeting but it doesn't slip. I've always used carbon paste.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    i used it in the past but with all the travelling its worn off, might add some more tomorrow
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • indyp
    indyp Posts: 735
    unfortunately, a new bike forces sale of my cherished CR1 SL. I'd love to keep it as it's been a fantastic bike but I've not enough space. So, if anyone is interested in a super cared for and well maintained frameset size 58cm then get in touch. It'll come as received, with BB and headset etc.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    time to replace both headset & bottom bracket
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • jason78
    jason78 Posts: 158
    anyone retrofitted di2 groupset on to their frame?
    just asking as I've got 6870 di2 itching to go onto something lol
    2010 Cboardman carbon pro--- gone to pastures new
    Ribble Addax winter with sram force
    2012 Scott Cr1 SL ----in process of being built 2018 MOVED ON
    Stork Visioner ---Current steed
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    itboffin wrote:
    time to replace both headset & bottom bracket

    Just replaced the headset on my Pro after 15k miles. I had serviced it couple of times to keep it going, but in reality the stock headset was a cheap piece of crap.
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    jason78 wrote:
    anyone retrofitted di2 groupset on to their frame?
    just asking as I've got 6870 di2 itching to go onto something lol

    It's not going to be easy as there is no internal cable routing, but perfectly doable with cable ties or a few holes judiciously drilled holes :twisted: I went with eTap to save the bother.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    bobones wrote:
    jason78 wrote:
    anyone retrofitted di2 groupset on to their frame?
    just asking as I've got 6870 di2 itching to go onto something lol

    It's not going to be easy as there is no internal cable routing, but perfectly doable with cable ties or a few holes judiciously drilled holes :twisted: I went with eTap to save the bother.

    Holey Moley - I wouldn't do either of those. If it needs to be external, Shimano do some adhesive external cable mounting ducting. Used it on the Volagi and, 6 years later, it's still absolutely fine. On the Scott I don't suppose it would even show up much run under the down tube and along the bottom of the chain stay.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    meanredspider wrote:
    bobones wrote:
    jason78 wrote:
    anyone retrofitted di2 groupset on to their frame?
    just asking as I've got 6870 di2 itching to go onto something lol

    It's not going to be easy as there is no internal cable routing, but perfectly doable with cable ties or a few holes judiciously drilled holes :twisted: I went with eTap to save the bother.

    Holey Moley - I wouldn't do either of those. If it needs to be external, Shimano do some adhesive external cable mounting ducting. Used it on the Volagi and, 6 years later, it's still absolutely fine. On the Scott I don't suppose it would even show up much run under the down tube and along the bottom of the chain stay.
    Sounds like better, if not entirely satisfactory, option.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    bobones wrote:
    meanredspider wrote:
    bobones wrote:
    jason78 wrote:
    anyone retrofitted di2 groupset on to their frame?
    just asking as I've got 6870 di2 itching to go onto something lol

    It's not going to be easy as there is no internal cable routing, but perfectly doable with cable ties or a few holes judiciously drilled holes :twisted: I went with eTap to save the bother.

    Holey Moley - I wouldn't do either of those. If it needs to be external, Shimano do some adhesive external cable mounting ducting. Used it on the Volagi and, 6 years later, it's still absolutely fine. On the Scott I don't suppose it would even show up much run under the down tube and along the bottom of the chain stay.
    Sounds like better, if not entirely satisfactory, option.

    Actually, it's entirely satisfactory. The only person that's noticed that it's even an external installation was Sherritt at The Bike Whisperer whilst he was doing my bike fit and he commented on what a neat installation it was. The Di2 has been 100% issue-free for 6 years.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    I accept that it's OK for you, but IMO, it's still a bodge that will look shit and come loose at some stage.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    bobones wrote:
    I accept that it's OK for you, but IMO, it's still a bodge that will look shoot and come loose at some stage.

    Well as you've neither seen it or tried it, I'll not place much value on that opinion....
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    I seem to remember someone on here posted a link to some very shiny and skeletal brake calipers. I'm pretty sure that it was here because my CR1 has got a pair on....Anyone remember what or where from? They're, as far as I can tell, anodised aluminium and very very good...
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    do you mean the super duper uber lightweight Ti ones?

    if you do i have a practically new set in black somewhere
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Ooh, I think that was me! I have Planet X ultralight CNC brakes on mine, they're lovely - but no longer available. Other than from Boff.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    i have two sets one in gold that need new springs and pads and the black Ti ones
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    How much are you looking for in exchange for the black pair boff?

    Assuming you're selling them of course.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.

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