The Scott CR1 SL Thread

daniel_b

Looking good! 8)

boblo

Needs proper pedals but a nicely executed build nonetheless.

itboffin

nice but I'd change those tyres for something with a higher TPI i use those conti on my winter commuter because they're tough as old nails with all the feedback of a garden hose

daveb99

The pedals are SPD, I'm intending to fit some "proper" ones at some point, these are just to get me going for now...

As for the tyres - they seem ok to me, though I know what you mean I think. I wanted something with great puncture protection and a decent comfort level, and many 25C tyres are too wide for this frame. GP4000S II come up at 27mm - these are exactly 25. I may yet try GP4000S II but 23C as they are ~25mm when inflated to 100psi anyway.

I'll look into the whole TPI thing, seems it's mostly about the 'suppleness' of the tyre?

luv2ride

Got Vittoria CG Paves on mine (320tpi?) And they are as smooth as people say. Nice build BTW, looking forward to getting mine out again once weather improves 8)

boblo

Go on then, here's mine again:

daveb99

boblo wrote:

Go on then, here's mine again:

Very flash......there's always one eh!

daveb99

Right - as has been suggested, I've now ordered some higher TPI tyres - GP4000S II in 23mm to be precise. Decent deal at Wiggle for "new" customers with a tenner off, plus multibuy discount and TCB, works out at about £22 each.

If I can't tell the difference then I'll huff and I'll puff and I'll.....well....I'll use them anyway!

I'm 72kg - so I presume I could run them at a slightly lower pressure - I was thinking 90 front, 100 rear?

daniel_b

daveb99 wrote:

Right - as has been suggested, I've now ordered some higher TPI tyres - GP4000S II in 23mm to be precise. Decent deal at Wiggle for "new" customers with a tenner off, plus multibuy discount and TCB, works out at about £22 each.

If I can't tell the difference then I'll huff and I'll puff and I'll.....well....I'll use them anyway!

I'm 72kg - so I presume I could run them at a slightly lower pressure - I was thinking 90 front, 100 rear?

I'm the same weight as you currently, and would likely go for 80\90 but it's whatever works for you, for the combination of comfort, grip and fairy resistance, bit of experimentation required I guess.

EDIT: Those pressures are what I run for 25's, so for 23's I think you might be on the nail, or perhaps 5 less eash end,

solstice21

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN ... haTzVteDFn

mine may look v similar to boblo's come summer as have DA groupset and Assaults (stealth graphics though)

porlyworly

First sportive in years this weekend and was hoping to bring the Scott out of hibernation but it's forecast to rain quite heavily - can anyone recommend a set of mudguards that will fit out of the box? I'm running 25mm Vittoria open pave CG III tyres on Shimano RS80's and there isn't a great deal of clearance!

itboffin

Hmmm thats a tough one any clip on will eat the stays I'd go with an arse saver and get wet feet, the SL is a race frame it wasn't made with clearance in mind

porlyworly

Thought as much, in that case will have to get my 4r$3 in gear and sort the equilibrium out on Saturday!

keef66

As one who's resorted to fitting a 23mm tyre on the rear because of tight clearances, I too doubt it's possible / advisable with 25s.
An Equilibrium with guards sounds a better proposition looking at the forecast.

itboffin

Vittoria pave and rubino pro are good as they both measure 24mm on shimano rims, 25 is just about doable but I'd keep a close eye for rub marks.

come to think of it i doubt the schwable ones 25 are going to fit

porlyworly

Ordered a set of these for the CR1 - https://www.merlincycles.com/sks-racebl ... 81228.html

Description says they're good up to 23mm so may not get away with the 25mm open paves, got a pair of Rubino Pro slick 23's I could put on for this ride. Open paves are quite narrow for 25's so in reality probably very little difference!

porlyworly

Fitted the raceblades on Saturday, the front one in particular was an absolute pig to set up, easily took me an hour to get front & rear installed with (almost) no tyre rub.

Sportive yesterday and the weather was gruesome, these were a lifesaver. Had to stop a couple of times to adjust the front mudguard as it was occasionally rubbing on the tyre (left the 25mm tyres on) but overall really impressed

itboffin

keef66 wrote:

The rear wheel of my CR1-SL sits slightly off centre if I just let the weight of the bike settle the axle in the dropouts. I have to straighten it slightly then clamp it in position with the QR (Standard Shimano affair that came with the RS10 wheels) It does stay put, but I don't weigh very much and I don't put out a lot of power though.

I'd soon know if it was slipping as I have 25mm Pro4 SCs on there and minimal clearance twixt tyre and chainstays when it's dead centre.

Mine now does this with smooth axle wheels but fine with the threaded Shimano's I'm going to put a little shim in there i think

solstice21

Let me know how you get on making/fixing shim. Does your wheel sit close to left stay? Mine does this.... Fine with 23's, not so good when i tried 25's.

itboffin

It holds fine when manually lined up and doesn't look chewed up so perhaps it'll be fine, I've also swapped QR to ultegra which clamp better, i was thinking a bit of shaped coke can should be enough

luv2ride

itboffin wrote:

It holds fine when manually lined up and doesn't look chewed up so perhaps it'll be fine, I've also swapped QR to ultegra which clamp better, i was thinking a bit of shaped coke can should be enough

I'd also be interested in hearing about the homemade shim, if you get around to it. My CR1 SL has the same issue although seems to hold tight when lined up manually. It's never caused an issue with tyre rub but would be nice not to have to think about it when swapping out wheels....

In other news, whilst still a blast to ride I'm still looking to soften the ride a little (before resorting to buying a Scott Solace to replace it). I was looking for a decent replacement seatpost to provide some deflection but can't seem to find anything in 31.6mm. The VCLS posts are 27mm only, the Syntace P6 Hylex looks hugely expensive, and the Chinese Ergon copies seem to have vanished from eBay. Scott say don't use a seatpost shim on the SL frame. Any other options?

daveb99

Re softening the ride, do you use 25mm tyres? How about a more comfortable saddle - or even just drop your tyre pressures by 5-10psi?

As for seat posts, what about a Ritchey WCS Carbon? That's what I'll go for at some point as my bars/stem are Ritchey.

itboffin

i'm off to make the shim now, I've just been out for a ride with the ultegra QR clamped tight, in 5 miles it moved back to the left, tightened and rode gently for another 5 miles, no movement, stamped on the pedals for 5 more and it moved, this time i pulled back on the drive side and tighten a bit more.

No movement for the rest of the ride however I can see now at home that there is a tiny amount, I also believe the weird bouncing i get at speed is related to the wheel not sitting square in the dropouts.

I know what you mean about soften the ride, this Scott and my local Windshire roads make it feel like riding cobbles, i have 25c Vittoria tyres with a 3T alu seatpost which is just as good as most average carbon units, the SL sure is a stiff bike.

itboffin

right then, shim FAIL but also need really needed, I've had a good look at the dropouts and neither side is worn or eaten away, the problem is a manufacturing fault, the wheel i'm having a problem with has 9.8mm axle ends which are round, when rested in the dropouts its clear it doesnt sit level, my shimano threaded axle are 9.9-10mm and just big enough to jam level.

well that's my theory anyway. I've been riding up and down trying out different QR tensions - its needs to be damn tight not to move

Lefthook

I had the rear wheel issues, but not a problem now as my Scott has bitten the dust. Chain link bent, but did not snap. Caught the front derailleur on the way through and ripped the derailleur and mounting bracket out of the frame, which caught the bottle cage and ripped its bolts out the frame.

Was repairable but not at an economical price. RIP my first 'nice' bike.

patrickf

itboffin wrote:

right then, shim FAIL but also need really needed, I've had a good look at the dropouts and neither side is worn or eaten away, the problem is a manufacturing fault, the wheel i'm having a problem with has 9.8mm axle ends which are round, when rested in the dropouts its clear it doesnt sit level, my shimano threaded axle are 9.9-10mm and just big enough to jam level.

well that's my theory anyway. I've been riding up and down trying out different QR tensions - its needs to be damn tight not to move

Scott we're quite quick to admit this was a manufacturing issue when I took mine in. Took a lot of arguing to get the Pro version instead of the SL of which they had none (they were adamant I could only have an old Addict in a totally different colour scheme)

Needless to say the Pro frame was sold very quickly but I did note it had similar alignment issues as the SL.

solstice21

I'm thinking (when can be arsed) to build up some form of thin shim on drive side dropout (slither of epoxy or something) . Not an issue at mo as running 23s but have some 10 speed 50x25 carbon tubs which look good on the bike. Rubbed a couple of times when on before so removed as a precaution.

solstice21

This does however mean the cr1 currently runs like this......

https://goo.gl/photos/7nDjuuaMA2ypJ8LN7

itboffin

well it is an issue if you run the rear unbalanced the whole bike will bounce along like a pogo and i'd imagine its not healthy for the wheel either

Blader1611

I have just bought a CR1 frameset to build up and came across this thread whilst looking for some answers to issues i might have. I wondered if any of you nice chaps/ladies could help me out with some technical info. I have fitted a Tiagra 4700 crankset but it doesnt seem to spin freely (it spins but seems to have a small amount of resistance like it was tight but i hadnt done up the preload) which makes me think that the BB may be on its way out. Which bb is it the bb91 41A or the 41B? Also does it require any sort of spacer on DS or NDS as i have just fitted the cranks with no spacers at all? Also any idea what bearing to use on the headset?
Sorry for the questions as these may have been answered on the thread already but i am currently trawling through all 114 pages and i am only up to pages 9.