The Scott CR1 SL Thread

keef66

turbo1191 wrote:

Hi folks. Unfortunately dropped the bike at the weekend and the shifting is out. Wasn't that bad-more of a fall. When you look at my mech cage from the back it doesn't look parallel with the cassette. I've tried several times to get the gears to index but I can either get the top half of the block right or the bottom.. not both.. possibly thinking I've bent the hanger.. and it looks non replaceable.. any ideas?

I'm certain you have bent the hanger. If you have the 2012 CR1-SL that originally spawned this thread then it is replaceable. Held on by 2 tiny hex socket screws, so be careful not to round them.

Although I gather that Scott did produce earlier versions of the CR1 with non-replaceable hangers. If you have one of those, all I can offer is commiserations.

I managed to knock my bike over in the garage and of course it fell on the drive side. The mech looked wonky so I went straight inside and ordered a new mech hanger from Westbrooks. It came with 2 new mounting bolts; 5 mins to fit and the bike was back to being perfect.

Westbrooks appear not to list them on their website now but

http://www.pedalon.co.uk/acatalog/scott ... anger.html

keef66

Oh yes they do!

https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott ... r1-p261078

bradsbeard

turbo1191 wrote:

Hi folks. Unfortunately dropped the bike at the weekend and the shifting is out. Wasn't that bad-more of a fall. When you look at my mech cage from the back it doesn't look parallel with the cassette. I've tried several times to get the gears to index but I can either get the top half of the block right or the bottom.. not both.. possibly thinking I've bent the hanger.. and it looks non replaceable.. any ideas?

If it is the Cr1 with a replaceable hanger I have one you can gladly have. Drop me a PM with address etc.

meanredspider

If it's not too badly bent, a hanger alignment tool might also help, especially if it's a non-replaceable sort. If it's properly bent, it is likely to break when straightened. In any case, a replacement is usually best if possible.

fat_tail

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Having constant issues with the headset. It's been replaced a couple of times mostly due to the bearings going but then the steering gets 'stiff' again pretty quickly. This time it's creaking all of the time, you can't make it to it on the stand or stopped but when riding it's pretty constant.

I have had to replace a number of headsets. the ritchey wcs ones seem to be made of cheese. got some Cane Creek ones last and they seem to be holding up. I suspect that the reason I am getting headset problems is due to water coming through the fork area.

next time I will get a headset from Westbrook to see if that's any better.

keef66

My Ritchey WCS one is still going strong. Due I suspect to the fact that I ride the thing mainly in the dry...

On the winter bike a cheap and cheerful FSA one is still in perfect nick after 9 years, again likely helped by the fact it's always had full guards fitted.

solstice21

keef66 wrote:

My Ritchey WCS one is still going strong. Due I suspect to the fact that I ride the thing mainly in the dry...

On the winter bike a cheap and cheerful FSA one is still in perfect nick after 9 years, again likely helped by the fact it's always had full guards fitted.

Same. I generally still use the cr1 as my best bike so it mostly stays dry (still done >3k) but when I do start getting clicks, noises, etc it ends up being pedals or drive train.
After recently playing with the idea of getting an aeroad, I have now decided to keep cr1 and put some aero wheels on...It's still a quality bike.

luv2ride

Solstice21 wrote:

keef66 wrote:

My Ritchey WCS one is still going strong. Due I suspect to the fact that I ride the thing mainly in the dry...

On the winter bike a cheap and cheerful FSA one is still in perfect nick after 9 years, again likely helped by the fact it's always had full guards fitted.

Same. I generally still use the cr1 as my best bike so it mostly stays dry (still done >3k) but when I do start getting clicks, noises, etc it ends up being pedals or drive train.
After recently playing with the idea of getting an aeroad, I have now decided to keep cr1 and put some aero wheels on...It's still a quality bike.

And the same here. Stuck some 50mm carbon clinchers on mine with Vittoria CG Pave 25s on and it smooths out the road well, and still climbs like a dream. Given many of us got the Westbrook frames for "it'd be rude not to" money, I think we may have been a little spoilt by the quality of the frame. It was my first (and only) carbon bike and think I'd be likely to be spending quite a bit more to get anything as good, unless frame design has really come on in leaps and bounds since 2012....

itboffin

i love my scott cr1 sl and its the bike i ride most but seeing as today was so good i took the cervelo r5 out and boy oh boy you can buy speed, the r5 makes the cr1 seem like snail especially climb and descending.

it can't just be the 3.5lb weight difference nor can it be the wheels stan 340 vs superstar elite with only 350g difference in weight, the scott is super stiff but the r5 glides over everything like a matt of air.

unless it rains then of course it would melt.

rolf_f

itboffin wrote:

it can't just be the 3.5lb weight difference nor can it be the wheels stan 340 vs superstar elite with only 350g difference in weight, the scott is super stiff but the r5 glides over everything like a matt of air.

If it's not the weight and it's not the wheels, then rationally it can only be your imagination!

daniel_b

Rolf F wrote:

itboffin wrote:

it can't just be the 3.5lb weight difference nor can it be the wheels stan 340 vs superstar elite with only 350g difference in weight, the scott is super stiff but the r5 glides over everything like a matt of air.

If it's not the weight and it's not the wheels, then rationally it can only be your imagination!

I thought you had weighed your CR1 at 7kg?

Is your Cervelo 5.4kg?!

Or does the CR1 now have heavier kit on it?

solstice21

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5yHbf ... sp=sharing

Mine's about 7.3kg in XL. Bit more with all the baggage on in photo but new to doing anything more that TT's on tubs so being prepared.

Still love it....will have to take some better pics though!

daniel_b

Solstice21 wrote:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5yHbfjnhrcWbGNTcTYxcDhJMmc/view?usp=sharing

Mine's about 7.3kg in XL. Bit more with all the baggage on in photo but new to doing anything more that TT's on tubs so being prepared.

Still love it....will have to take some better pics though!

That's good going for an XL - is that a 60?

Mine is a 54, and was 7.1, but there have been some changes (Pedals and saddle), so I think it might be under 7 now - however I can't weigh the whole bike, as the front wheel is on it's way to France. As are we actually tomorrow, but not connected.

What wheels do you have on it?

solstice21

Their XL is a 58. I'm 6'3" so probably top end for that size but 120mm stem/ 400mm bars and it feels fine.

Wheels are Chinese custom builds...A291 Novatecs, DT comp spokes on 50x25mm toroidal rims, Ultremo tubs. TT'd with the front all season using and 80mm clincher on rear. Evening series now finished so I put these on while I decide if I want/ need some 38s or 50s in clincher form.

itboffin

Yep the Scott has had a few weight gaining upgrades like tyres and crankset, chain.

The cervelo is still the same at about 6kg maybe less without the bottle cages and pedals.

pollys_bott

Has anyone else bought an alloy bike since their CR1 and is now thinking that the CR1 is fast, stiff & fun but their alloy bike is fast, stiff, fun and so much smoother? Or is it just me getting old..?

Said alloy bike is 'only' a CAADX too... am seriously considering flogging the CR1 and getting a CAAD12 as my 'best' bike if the ride quality of the CAADX is anything to go by...

turbo1191

Yes.. If I could find an alloy bike that was as light I would buy one.. As I'm getting older I've realised I need something that smooths out the bumps! Trek domane is looking good

itboffin

My old trek 1.7 is an amazing ride I suspect with the right components it would be almost as light as the scott and far more comfortable

itboffin

what lightweight finishing kit do/are people using or recommend, my perfectly functional alu 3T kit has been great but it doesnt do justice to such a good frameset, time for an upgrade.

keef66

itboffin wrote:

what lightweight finishing kit do/are people using or recommend, my perfectly functional alu 3T kit has been great but it doesnt do justice to such a good frameset, time for an upgrade.

I keep thinking the same thing. Mine's sporting 9 year old RS10s, a 105 triple groupset, basic Deda finishing kit and M520 pedals. It's still a lovely ride, but I get the nagging feeling I'm letting the frameset down a bit...

daniel_b

keef66 wrote:

itboffin wrote:

what lightweight finishing kit do/are people using or recommend, my perfectly functional alu 3T kit has been great but it doesnt do justice to such a good frameset, time for an upgrade.

I keep thinking the same thing. Mine's sporting 9 year old RS10s, a 105 triple groupset, basic Deda finishing kit and M520 pedals. It's still a lovely ride, but I get the nagging feeling I'm letting the frameset down a bit...

I like both Ritchey WCS and 3T stuff, probably 3T marginally more.

I also have a lovely light Zipp Carbon stem which is a thing of beauty, and currently living on the Synapse.

gozzy

A 3T ionic team seatpost has made a good difference over a deda rs02 post, happily sticking with 3t alu at the other end though.

daveb99

...Add another CR1 SL owner (to be) to the list....

I've recently agreed to buy the CR1 SL frame that was in the classifieds on here last week for a decent price, as I've gone a bit mad and suddenly decided to upgrade my Planet X SL Pro. I blame Christmas - it brings out a sever case of upgraditis

I'm pairing it with full Ultegra 6800 groupo and wheelset, and Ritchey WCS finishing kit & saddle (albeit ally, not carbon - yet).

Can't wait for it to turn up - should be here in the next couple of days. I broke my wrist 3 months ago (MTB accident) so haven't actually ridden my bike again yet due to a fairly long recovery (4 breaks and torn ligament too)- so riding the CR1 is going to be a real treat I hope.

In the meantime I've been wading through this thread after finding it on Google, I'm about 45 pages in so far! Interesting how people initially thought it might be a harsh ride but that seems to have been dispelled now.

Also great to see photos of people's bikes, to see what colour schemes look good etc.

I'm expecting it to be quite an upgrade from my PX - which I haven't used nearly enough until this year...

If anyone can summarise the "things to watch out for / take note of" when I embark on the build, it would be really useful.

a_to_the_j

check the rear stays and around where the rear QR lever "grips" the frame - they can get smooth and "slippy", and cause the rear wheel to move off centre and then wear away the rear stay where it meets the bottom bracket - when your rear tyre blows from wearing away and you then notice your rear stay is worn away and beyond repair its too late to do anything apart from bin it (like i did) - i believe there are quite a few who have suffered this issue and got a replacement from Scott if they were the first owner/within warranty/serviced continually by Scott network - i was a 2nd hand owner and they did nothing for me.

rolf_f

a_to_the_j wrote:

check the rear stays and around where the rear QR lever "grips" the frame - they can get smooth and "slippy", and cause the rear wheel to move off centre and then wear away the rear stay where it meets the bottom bracket - when your rear tyre blows from wearing away and you then notice your rear stay is worn away and beyond repair its too late to do anything apart from bin it (like i did)

Or you just get it repaired. Carbon fibre repairs are a lot cheaper than a new CR1 SL frame! Mate of mine had the seat stays wrecked by wear from a Raceblade mudguard. Think it cost about £100 to fix.

Reminds me, must get round to building mine......

a_to_the_j

You didnt think i had it properly looked at, considering you can buy a new un-repaired carbon frame for around 300 quid , and dont forget it would also require some sort or repair at the QR gripping side too to stop the wheel from going off center -it ended up just not being worth it, not only cost, but peace of mind.

daveb99

Further to my post above, I'm soon going to finally start my CR1 SL build - with Ultegra 6800 full Groupset and Campagnolo Eurus wheels. I've been keeping an eye out for some decent used carbon bars and seatpost now I've got the funds, and I've now got some 3T Ergosum Ltd bars (used) and a new 3T Doric Team seatpost.

The seatpost is an inline one, rather than a layback (which is what I've had previously). I still need a stem - I'm looking at the 3T Arx Team so the red stripe matches the seatpost (I might even go for red bar tape and cages...).

Question is, I'm sure I've read somewhere that the frame has a shorter top tube - so should I get a stem that's at least 10mm longer than my previous one (which was 110mm)? Has anyone else found that they needed a longer stem? Looking at my previous saddle/post combo I had the saddle adjusted forward by about 15-20mm from the centre. So moving it back by approx 10mm on the inline post should be the same - so it's just down to the top tube length.

I'm ordering a new one - just not sure whether to go for 110 or 120mm...

Oh, and also can anyone recommend any particular carbon paste for the seat post, and I assume I need to put it on the bars too where they attach to the stem (which will be alloy)?

indyp

Finish Line carbon paste I used and with good success - most cycle shops will carry it.

markgoldstein

I'm selling my CR1 SL, if anyone's looking for one:

viewtopic.php?f=40090&t=13075171

daveb99

After a busy weekend with the tools I've now completed my CR1 SL build. Despite my previous post about 3T finishing kit I decided to fit my Ritchey WCS stuff for now, for various reasons.

Spec is as follows. Total weight is 7.1kg plus pedals:

54cm CR1 SL frame
Ultegra 6800 groupset
Campagnolo Eurus wheels with Conti Grand Prix 25C tyres
Ritchey WCS bars, stem, seatpost, saddle.

I've put Cinelli gel pads under the bar tape due to breaking my wrist a few months ago (to reduce the vibration), but it is now quite 'fat' so I may remove it - the Gel Cork bar tape is well padded anyway.

In terms of tyre clearance at the rear, I seem to have plenty as the GP tyres (not GP4000S) have come up at exactly 25mm.

I did 20 miles on it this afternoon, and the first thing that stood out is how smooth the ride is, I could happily ride it all day (given the fitness / energy levels!). Plenty of stiffness for when you need it though.

Great frame, loving it so far.

Quick photo: