The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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  • Lefthook
    Lefthook Posts: 124
    I believe 41A is the road version while 41B is the MTB version. I did not have any spacers fitted with my 105 hollowtech II cranks
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    It's a standard pressfit BB86. Mine came with the Shimano Ultegra one fitted. No spacers for a standard road double chainset. One each side for a triple, but they'd come with the chainset.

    What does the BB feel like before you fit the chainset? Can you rotate the bearings by hand and do they feel smooth? My experience with Hollowtech and pressfit BBs from Shimano is that there is some drag from the seals (which is a good thing IME) so don't expect the cranks to spin freely once fitted / preloaded.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Lefthook wrote:
    I believe 41A is the road version while 41B is the MTB version. I did not have any spacers fitted with my 105 hollowtech II cranks

    I believe it's the other way round. The A's look like MTB ones and the B's are road.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    My headset was supplied with the frame / forks from new. I've got a document somewhere with the specs.

    It's a Ritchey WCS semi integrated something.

    Had to press the headset cups into the headtube, then just drop in the bearings; if you have a used frame yours may have cups in already

    Found it! Ritchey WCS Logic Zero PF. No idea about the actual bearings

    BB91 press-fit BB, 31.6 seatpost.
  • solstice21
    solstice21 Posts: 321
    Just how much resistance are people getting from these bb's? Ok, so mine doesn't spin like a ceramic one (or my external ultegra 1 on another bike) but it's smooth and makes no dodgy noise therefore I'm happy :D
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    My bb shell is 86.5 wide which i think is the B version which ties in with what keef66 says.
    The bb spins ok by hand but i thought it just felt a little draggy, i can spin the crankset and it will rotate a turn or two on its own and i cant feel any play through the crankset.
    Headset bearings feel rough too when turning bars but that could be crud etc as i havent cleaned it all out yet. What bearings will i need just in case i need replacement ones?

    Thanks for the help chaps, much appreciated.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    There is a Tiagra 4700 pressfit bottom bracket BB86 at Ribble cycles for £10.99, would this be suitable for the CR1? It seems to show the right spec but i am sure i am missing something crucial. BB91 bottom brackets appear to be in short supply unless you are willing to pay full RRP price at CRC, sold out at Merlin which are half the price of CRC ones.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    The Tiagra one would fit just fine, but I'd be tempted to spend a bit more and go for the BB71 which is Ultegra level or the BB92 which is Dura Ace:

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-b ... #pid=19594

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/shimano-b ... #pid=20168
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If you drop the fork out of the frame (and remember to catch it!) the cartridge bearings should just fall / lift out of the cups if they are not badly corroded.

    Clean them up and you should be able to see the bearing numbers written / stamped on them.

    Stick that into Google and you should be able to source replacements easily / cheaply
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Thanks keef66, i was planning to take the forks out to look clean it out so will look at the bearings then.
    Are the Ultegra BB's better than the Tiagra ones as they dont seem to be any different in construction? Dura ace is a bit spendy for me.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    In my very limited experience I've gained the impression that Ultegra level BBs seem to outlast Tiagra and 105.

    The pressfit BB71 in my CR1 is still the original factory fitted one, coming up for 4 years old, and it's still perfectly smooth and silent. It hardly ever goes out in the wet though.

    More impressive is the Ultegra threaded Hollowtech BB on the winter bike. That does get a hammering in all weathers and is I think in it's seventh year. The original 105 one started clicking after 3 seasons.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    The Ultegra is only a few quid more so no harm in trying it.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    How do you get the headset bearings out? There seems to be a black spacer on each end of the headtube that keeps the cartridges in place. Do you have to remove these and how as there is no space to lever them off?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Blader1611 wrote:
    How do you get the headset bearings out? There seems to be a black spacer on each end of the headtube that keeps the cartridges in place. Do you have to remove these and how as there is no space to lever them off?

    What you are calling a spacer is I think the lip of the cup that's pressed into the head tube. If I remember correctly the cartridge bearings simply dropped in to the cups. I'd have thought the lower one would have fallen out when you dropped the fork. Not sure how you'd persuade them out if they are corroded in...
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    use a fine sewing needle
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    The thin shiny black metal ring that sits in between the fork and the headtube when you look at the bike (it has the look of a spacer but surely must be part of the cup). I think i need to have a proper look at it but from a quick glance it seemed to partially cover the cartridge and thus meant you cant pull it out.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Now i have had a good look at it its obvious now that the cartridge bearings are just stuck in the cups. Tried to pull them out but the inner bearing plate came out and the rest just stayed in situ. I might just clean and regrease and see how that goes as its only the top bearing thats grumbling.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Ok, cleaning and regreasing still leaves it grumbly but working. It looks like judging by the caps that it is a Richey WCS, anyone have any idea what model? I still cant see how i am going to get it out as it looks like there is a lip inside the headtube which makes using a drift almost out of the question. Any ideas?

    If i do get it out chances are its probably rusted and i wont be able to read the spec on the side. Anybody planning some fork work who would take a look at theirs for me, pretty please?
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Blader1611 wrote:
    Ok, cleaning and regreasing still leaves it grumbly but working. It looks like judging by the caps that it is a Richey WCS, anyone have any idea what model? I still cant see how i am going to get it out as it looks like there is a lip inside the headtube which makes using a drift almost out of the question. Any ideas?

    If i do get it out chances are its probably rusted and i wont be able to read the spec on the side. Anybody planning some fork work who would take a look at theirs for me, pretty please?
    I think I have the bearings around still. I'll fish them out later.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    IIRC the cups took some effort to press in to the head tube, but I don't remember any internal lip or step so they should drift out if required.

    If I get 10 minutes to myself over the weekend I'll drop out the fork and see if I can fish out the bearings.

    The whole headset was a Ritchey WCS carbon zero stack. I can find the occasional reference to it by Googling, but never get any details of the bearings themselves

    eg http://www.tweekscycles.com/components/ ... 6--zs44-30
  • Lefthook
    Lefthook Posts: 124
    These are the ones I replaced with

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ritc ... -prod62162
  • W12_Lad
    W12_Lad Posts: 184
    45 45 - 41x30.15
    https://veloviewer.com/SigImage/15e386/4/5/I/p/bhcdefghij.png[/IMG][/URL]
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Thanks for the help chaps, dont go to too much trouble though as i have wasted far too much time googling it.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    W12 lad wrote:
    45 45 - 41x30.15
    Exactly what's printed on the bearing I had too.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    patrickf wrote:
    W12 lad wrote:
    45 45 - 41x30.15
    Exactly what's printed on the bearing I had too.

    And me too. I whipped the fork out when I got home, worried that corrosion might be setting in and rendering them illegible or hard to remove. I need not have feared; everything was still smooth and shiny as the day I built the thing 4 years ago
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    I thought the bearings were different, one 30 and one 28.6? What width?
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Sorted it now. I managed to tap the existing bearing out with the square bar on my clamps, it was well corroded in! No markings on the bearing at all which is useful! Measured it up now and the you guys were right about the size but you have to get the 7mm thick cartridge which was the one measurement i couldnt find anywhere with any certainty.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    The markings on mine were tiny and very faint; at first I couldn't make them out at all. And that was with a bearing in pristine condition. No way would it have been legible if corroded. Good to know about the thickness; I'd refitted them before I had the bright idea of measuring them with the calipers.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    http://www.tredz.co.uk/.Ritchey-WCS-Bea ... _69864.htm

    These are the very things if you want the same as originally fitted.
  • Blader1611
    Blader1611 Posts: 29
    Thanks keef66, i have now ordered some from Merlin although they are not Ritchey. That item you linked to on Tredz is one of the annoying things about this search, there are some crucial measurements for bearings and thickness is one of them yet it is not anywhere on the item description. This isnt the only place doing this and its really annoying.

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