The Scott CR1 SL Thread

davis

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Ooh, I think that was me! I have Planet X ultralight CNC brakes on mine, they're lovely - but no longer available. Other than from Boff.

It was, and they are nice (might as well replace the crappy no-names on the Roubaix while it's being fettled). I thank you.

itboffin

davis wrote:

How much are you looking for in exchange for the black pair boff?

Assuming you're selling them of course.

let me go and have a look for them first but yes they're no use to me anymore

itboffin

itboffin wrote:

davis wrote:

How much are you looking for in exchange for the black pair boff?

Assuming you're selling them of course.

let me go and have a look for them first but yes they're no use to me anymore

found them, blimey there's like new :oops:

198g the set :shock:

itboffin

itboffin wrote:

itboffin wrote:

davis wrote:

How much are you looking for in exchange for the black pair boff?

Assuming you're selling them of course.

let me go and have a look for them first but yes they're no use to me anymore

found them, blimey there's like new :oops:

198g the set :shock:

I'm ashamed too say these have actual dust on them from being fitted to my Cervelo R5 that hangs unused on the living room wall

https://goo.gl/photos/F4TEJL7yPYceAcyG9

itboffin

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Ooh, I think that was me! I have Planet X ultralight CNC brakes on mine, they're lovely - but no longer available. Other than from Boff.

you can still get them new from a few ebay stores, somewhat more eye watering expensive than PX sold them for

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mr-ride-200g- ... XQyY1TVxKn

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOURIERS-BR-D ... 2392925341

davis

itboffin wrote:

itboffin wrote:

itboffin wrote:

davis wrote:

How much are you looking for in exchange for the black pair boff?

Assuming you're selling them of course.

let me go and have a look for them first but yes they're no use to me anymore

found them, blimey there's like new :oops:

198g the set :shock:

I'm ashamed too say these have actual dust on them from being fitted to my Cervelo R5 that hangs unused on the living room wall

Good lord man. I'm practically cutting my own throat taking them off your hands...

UndercoverElephant

itboffin wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Ooh, I think that was me! I have Planet X ultralight CNC brakes on mine, they're lovely - but no longer available. Other than from Boff.

you can still get them new from a few ebay stores, somewhat more eye watering expensive than PX sold them for

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/mr-ride-200g- ... XQyY1TVxKn

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FOURIERS-BR-D ... 2392925341

Brexit, innit?

itboffin

now i've seen that i'm going to source springs for the gold set as well @davis PM me an offer

itboffin

itboffin wrote:

now i've seen that i'm going to source springs for the gold set as well @davis PM me an offer

not those stupid prices mind the PX 2nd hand prices

davis

itboffin wrote:

itboffin wrote:

now i've seen that i'm going to source springs for the gold set as well @davis PM me an offer

not those stupid prices mind the PX 2nd hand prices

YHPM

itboffin

I had to admit defeat and take the Scott to the LBS, i've changed cleaned and checked everything and it still wont shift both up and down without hanging on the cassette

daniel_b

I have a new regular, and increasing clicking under load - assuming the bottom bracket is the culprit?

I have a new ceramic fancy affair that I bought off of someone on here last year I think it was - forget the make, US manufacturer iirc - Wheels manufacturing perhaps?

Any tips about how to remove the standard one, and fit this one?

Will also give me the excuse to fit the oval inner ring I bought a while back.

Oh and for the first time on Sunday my headset went loose - guessing the bung had slipped, so nipped it all back up, and it survived a bumpy 20 today.

meanredspider

Daniel B wrote:

I have a new regular, and increasing clicking under load - assuming the bottom bracket is the culprit?

I have a new ceramic fancy affair that I bought off of someone on here last year I think it was - forget the make, US manufacturer iirc - Wheels manufacturing perhaps?

Any tips about how to remove the standard one, and fit this one?

Will also give me the excuse to fit the oval inner ring I bought a while back.

Oh and for the first time on Sunday my headset went loose - guessing the bung had slipped, so nipped it all back up, and it survived a bumpy 20 today.

Personally I'd connect your first and last paras and discount the headset being the source of the clicking first. Not at all uncommon.

daniel_b

meanredspider wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

I have a new regular, and increasing clicking under load - assuming the bottom bracket is the culprit?

I have a new ceramic fancy affair that I bought off of someone on here last year I think it was - forget the make, US manufacturer iirc - Wheels manufacturing perhaps?

Any tips about how to remove the standard one, and fit this one?

Will also give me the excuse to fit the oval inner ring I bought a while back.

Oh and for the first time on Sunday my headset went loose - guessing the bung had slipped, so nipped it all back up, and it survived a bumpy 20 today.

Personally I'd connect your first and last paras and discount the headset being the source of the clicking first. Not at all uncommon.

Interesting - you think the bearings might need replacing?

Anyone else had headset issues?

I'm going out in an hour, so will try and isolate if it happens at a specific point on the pedal stroke etc etc

UndercoverElephant

Lots of headset issues throughout these pages, seems the stock one wasn't made of very stern stuff. Plenty of scope for that to cause a creak when you're applying pressure at the pedal stroke.

Otherwise BB replacement is pretty easy, remove the crankset and knock the BB out with either the correct tool (sadly, this is not the same as a headset removal tool - different size) or a screwdriver (carefully!) and press in the new one with a headset press. I used a little threadlock with my Wheels Manufacturing one to avoid creaking. It certainly doesn't creak, hopefully it'll still be removable when I need to.

meanredspider

Yeah - I don't know for sure but I've noticed my son's CR1 has had issues with the headset before and clicking under power is definitely one possible symptom. As UCE says, this area seems to be the weak point of these frames so I'd be making sure it was OK before doing any BB stuff. Worst case is that you ensure your headset is right then have to do BB.

I haven't kept up with the various headset fixes. Anyone come up with a recipe for success? My Foil, on the other hand, has been faultless in this area.

daniel_b

Thankyou UE, very helpful.

meanredspider wrote:

Yeah - I don't know for sure but I've noticed my son's CR1 has had issues with the headset before and clicking under power is definitely one possible symptom. As UCE says, this area seems to be the weak point of these frames so I'd be making sure it was OK before doing any BB stuff. Worst case is that you ensure your headset is right then have to do BB.

I haven't kept up with the various headset fixes. Anyone come up with a recipe for success? My Foil, on the other hand, has been faultless in this area.

Yep I clearly missed the headset issues in this thread :oops:

Can anyone shed any light on a suitable replacement headset, and or bearings please?

bobones

Daniel B wrote:

Thankyou UE, very helpful.

meanredspider wrote:

Yeah - I don't know for sure but I've noticed my son's CR1 has had issues with the headset before and clicking under power is definitely one possible symptom. As UCE says, this area seems to be the weak point of these frames so I'd be making sure it was OK before doing any BB stuff. Worst case is that you ensure your headset is right then have to do BB.

I haven't kept up with the various headset fixes. Anyone come up with a recipe for success? My Foil, on the other hand, has been faultless in this area.

Yep I clearly missed the headset issues in this thread :oops:

Can anyone shed any light on a suitable replacement headset, and or bearings please?

Headset is ZS44/28.6 (top) ZS44/30 (bottom). AKA semi-integrated, integral, zero stack. Non-tapered 1 1/8 inch.

If headset already has cups for sealed cartridge bearings then just replace the bearings with ones of same size. Otherwise, if the bearings are caged balls, fit a new complete headset with sealed cartridge bearings (cups, crown race, top parts all need replaced).

I think the SL came with a Ritchey WCS headset that had replaceable cartridge bearings (Cane Creek standard 45/35 degree?), whereas the Pro had a cheaper unit with caged balls.

I've recently replaced the stock headset in my Pro with one I picked up in the LBS, but Cane Creek 40 series ZS44 or Hope pick and mix are probably decent. Don't go for one of the cheaper options as they'll have inferior (non-sealed cartridge) bearings. Generally, cartridge bearings are either Cane Creek 45/35 degree standard or Campag 45/45 standard.

meanredspider

I think the root cause is the crappy expander bung that doesn't allow you to tension stuff up consistently.

itboffin

meanredspider wrote:

I think the root cause is the crappy expander bung that doesn't allow you to tension stuff up consistently.

this ^^^

everytime mine starts to play up its been the bung, develops a small gap between the bung top and forks, mostly because i travel with it a lot and i think the removal of the stem loosens it.

itboffin

Just ridden my Scott back from the LBS after I gave up trying to reindex the rear, turns out the mech hanger was bent, again no doubt from travelling.

time to buy the mech alignment tool

bobones

itboffin wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

I think the root cause is the crappy expander bung that doesn't allow you to tension stuff up consistently.

this ^^^

everytime mine starts to play up its been the bung, develops a small gap between the bung top and forks, mostly because i travel with it a lot and i think the removal of the stem loosens it.

The expander bung is supposed to be tightened to 8-9Nm with an 8mm hex wrench, which is pretty damn tight. I suspect some may not be giving it enough welly, which makes it more susceptible to slipping.

itboffin

Seems I've fixed my issue this time but this happens far to much on the Scott and never on any of my other carbon forked bikes, i cant even remember if this setup came with the frameset deal but i do know i want rid of it

How do i remove the expander inside the fork? I hate just bashing carbon parts

bobones

itboffin wrote:

How do i remove the expander inside the fork? I hate just bashing carbon parts

Start with the top part screwed into the expander, unscrew it a little so it sits 2-3mm above the top of the steerer tube, then tap it down with a rubber mallet and it will free the expander from the fork and you can just pull the lot out. If you unscrew it too much then the expander will drop into the fork and you'll need to turn the forks upside down.

keef66

I have likely said this before, but I'm not wading back through 119 pages.

When I first assembled mine the headset developed a rattle on the first shakedown ride. I then took off the top cap and really tightened the bung in the steerer while it was still clamped by the stem, so no danger of overdoing it and cracking the thing. Then undid the clamp bolts and replaced the top cap, tightening again to remove all play.

Once everything was done up again it stayed properly adjusted for 3 years, and I only dismantled it again out of curiosity and to help another forumite with bearing identification.

So i suspect MRS is correct and I'd not been able to properly preload the bearings the first time.

My experience suggests the supplied bung can work as intended, provided you get it tightly installed before preloading anything.

Others may have unusually shiny steerers or bungs, or a nervous approach to tightening expanding things in carbon tubes, and never preload the headset completely. Which may seem OK for a while then things bed in a bit and it starts to feel rattly or creaks.

itboffin

i'm going to replace it as the ones installed in all my other carbon bikes have never had an issue, that has to say something about the supplied device

meanredspider

Yeah - I don't think that the standard one is that fab

solstice21

As there's been some thread resurrection i thought I'd add that my rear drop-out hack is still holding strong! I had the issue of a slightly misaligned rear wheel as others have mentioned in here. Got some 2 pack/ Araldite and added a slither where needed to correct....So far, so good.
Also installed DA9000 groupset and Reynolds Assaults 8).

bobones

Solstice21 wrote:

As there's been some thread resurrection i thought I'd add that my rear drop-out hack is still holding strong! I had the issue of a slightly misaligned rear wheel as others have mentioned in here. Got some 2 pack/ Araldite and added a slither where needed to correct....So far, so good.
Also installed DA9000 groupset and Reynolds Assaults 8).

Nice! I still have the wheel alignment problem, which makes me nervous about fitting 25mm tyres, so I might have a go at fixing this sometime with your solution. I've recently fitted eTap and Zipp carbon finishing kit (post and bars only - new stem is still alloy), and I'm now running a tubeless tyre setup. 16k miles in, I'm still loving this bike, but I'm ashamed to admit I've recently been entertaining thoughts of a new frameset although I am struggling to find anything comparable in the sub-£500 bracket

solstice21

In s similar boat. Got a new work hack on c2w but still (always) looking for new toys. Kinesis Aithein frameset on CRC is closest I've come to pressing the button this week. Lack of room/ need is putting me off though
Fyi - now able to run 25 rear stress free (25 tubs did previously rub when pushing) but not much room. Ridiculous really for a bike designed for cobbles.