The Scott CR1 SL Thread

markhewitt1978

Lefthook wrote:

Anyone know what glue or other method can be used to re attach the bottom bracket cable guide to the frame. Was washing the bike and it just detached!

Mine came off a little while back and tbh I just pushed it back in, it's held in place by cable tension now!

markhewitt1978

Lefthook wrote:

Anyone know what glue or other method can be used to re attach the bottom bracket cable guide to the frame. Was washing the bike and it just detached!

Mine came off a little while back and tbh I just pushed it back in, it's held in place by cable tension now!

indyp

new Ksyrium Elite wheels on my CR1 SL, plus added new stem,seat post and bars last year - groupset went on year before if I remember correctly. I had thought about getting a Synapse to replace it, specifically for the renowned comfort of the Cannondale, but the CR1 is a fantastic bike and far too good to change.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76931429@ ... ed-public/

shamefully, I can't work out how to put the photo up.

luv2ride

indyP wrote:

new Ksyrium Elite wheels on my CR1 SL, plus added new stem,seat post and bars last year - groupset went on year before if I remember correctly. I had thought about getting a Synapse to replace it, specifically for the renowned comfort of the Cannondale, but the CR1 is a fantastic bike and far too good to change.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76931429@ ... ed-public/

shamefully, I can't work out how to put the photo up.

Yes, great bikes. Mine just got me around the Longleat Lionheart in decent shape. No wind so used my 50mm carbon wheels and new Open Pave 25mm tyres. Brill. Now I just have to learn/practice climbing a bit better as it certainly ain't the bike holding me back! Was also thinking of a Synapse but not after today

itboffin

weighed my SL today and taking off the pedals (260g) bottle cages x 2 (80g) garmin out front mount and pump mount (50g) comes to 7.1kg / 15.65lbs with 105/ultegra groupsets and heavy 25c Vittoria open pave tyres

not bad also considering it has alu bars & seatpost

luv2ride

Luv2ride wrote:

Also posted in the Workshop forum...
Hi all. Given I can't get my Scott to ride "softer" with bigger volume tyres due to lack of frame clearance I thought I might try a Canyon VCLS leaf Spring seat post. Trouble is they only come in 27.2mm diameter and my frame takes 31.6mm I think. I also remember reading the various info / warning tags that were attached to the frame when I built it up and distinctly recall one saying "Never use a spacer or shim in the seat tube". Short of invalidating the warranty, what other issues might there be?
Is anyone successfully using a reducer shim in their CR1, or Foil, frames?
cheers

Was still toying with the idea of the Ergon leaf Spring Carbon seatpost on my CR1, but according to the FAQs from the Ergon site it can't be used on a larger diameter seat tube:
"Q: My bike as a 31.6 seat tube. Can I shim the CF3 to fit?
A: No. The CF3 cannot be shimmed to fit larger diameter seat tubes. The seat tube must be 27.2"

Darn. Might stick one on my Crosslight though....

Koncordski

Anybody else that uses the CR1 regularly noticed that the inside cup of the rear dropouts which is all carbon is starting to look a little chewed up? Can only assume that dirt gets in there and slowly grinds away. It's not bad enough to throw the wheel out of alignment but it's a bit worrying. Think i'll have to remove the back wheel and clean the surfaces after every ride to prevent it getting worse. :shock:

markhewitt1978

I keep looking at the likes of the Canyon Ultimate CF and Endurace CF, but keep coming back to that fact that the CR1 is so good they wouldn't provide me with any improvement! Although I could do with a bike which is a bit shorter in the top tube than the 53cm of the Scott CR1 (52cm model)

a_to_the_j

@konkordski

mine did throw the wheel out of alignment, which then wore the carbon on the inside stay (something i only discovered when the tyre wore threw and blew) - it affected the strength of the stay that the frame was not worth the repair bill as scott would not honour the warranty as i was 2nd hand owner...., i did a bit of research, a known problem as i understand it....
see my pervious posts in this very thread.

daniel_b

Hi guys, after some new tyres.

Refusing to risk 25's on the rear, so was thinking 23 at the rear, and 25 at the front, good idea?
Clearly run them at different pressures, probably 100/90 psi.

a_to_the_j

25's ran fine on mine all round - contis.

tincaman

25's on narrower rims will usually fit ok. Wider rims not

itboffin

Daniel B wrote:

Hi guys, after some new tyres.

Refusing to risk 25's on the rear, so was thinking 23 at the rear, and 25 at the front, good idea?
Clearly run them at different pressures, probably 100/90 psi.

depending on the tyre brand most 23-25 are very very close so yeah should be fine

keef66

I've been running 25mm Michelin pro4 sc on mine, but last week I had the rear wheel out to discover some gouging on the inside of the chainstays so I need something narrower on the rear. Going to try a 25mm gp4 seasons as a temporary fix since they come up smaller than the michelins

a_to_the_j

make sure that the wheel is sitting in the middle , and then check it again after riding - there seems to be a growing problem of the rear drop outs wearing out and not clamping the wheel so it goes out of alignment - thats what happened to me and knackered the seat stays..........

patrickf

a_to_the_j wrote:

make sure that the wheel is sitting in the middle , and then check it again after riding - there seems to be a growing problem of the rear drop outs wearing out and not clamping the wheel so it goes out of alignment - thats what happened to me and knackered the seat stays..........

Ditto. Though I caught it before the gouging started.

Scott were utterly useless with offering a suitable replacement, even though there was no argument about it being a warranty issue.

Lefthook

patrickf wrote:

a_to_the_j wrote:

make sure that the wheel is sitting in the middle , and then check it again after riding - there seems to be a growing problem of the rear drop outs wearing out and not clamping the wheel so it goes out of alignment - thats what happened to me and knackered the seat stays..........

Ditto. Though I caught it before the gouging started.

Scott were utterly useless with offering a suitable replacement, even though there was no argument about it being a warranty issue.

I sent my frame back to Westbrook for the above and they denied any issue! and said everything was within tolerances. Have to reseat the rear wheel every ride. This issue combined with the bb cable guide falling off and the finish on one of the cable stops on the top tube coming off has taken the shine of the frame for me.

a_to_the_j

Aye. Scott dealer would not look at me because i bought it second hand even though i also had all receipts and it was only 2 years old. originally westbrook frame, contacted them with no luck either. I looked on the net and seems quite a few people, not just uk, having these issues...

keef66

Well my dropouts are still spot on and the wheel sits exactly central. The scrapes to the inside of the chainstays are near enough symmetrical, so I'm hoping all I need is a narrower tyre...

daniel_b

Cautiously mine seems to still be spot on, as does my gf's Contessa, though the latter has had much lower mileage.

Speaking of which, we took them both out for their first ride of the year yesterday, and what a pleasure it was :-)
My new layback seatpost was a good choice.

fat_tail

I have ran 25mm Open Pave and 26mm Panaracer Gravel Kings on 23mm Archetypes no problems
Now have 25mm IRC Roadlites on 23mm Hunt Wheels. So far no problems.

itboffin

Daniel B wrote:

Cautiously mine seems to still be spot on, as does my gf's Contessa, though the latter has had much lower mileage.

Speaking of which, we took them both out for their first ride of the year yesterday, and what a pleasure it was :-)
My new layback seatpost was a good choice.

they stay in remarkably good condition when not ridden, much like my mint condition 2013 Cervelo R5

markhewitt1978

Been running RS80s and GP4000S 25mm (which run big) on front and back for a few years now. No problems.

keef66

Well I'm not taking any chances, and now have a 23mm Pro4 SC to go on the back. Think I'll need to fill the existing gouges with something so I can tell if it's still happening. Car body filler OK?

bobones

keef66 wrote:

Well I'm not taking any chances, and now have a 23mm Pro4 SC to go on the back. Think I'll need to fill the existing gouges with something so I can tell if it's still happening. Car body filler OK?

If the tyres are still rubbing, you should see some wear marks on the tyre logos.

On my CR1, the rear wheel sits a bit nearer to the non-drive side chainstay. I've tried 25mm GP4000s, Pro 4 SC, and latterly, Rubino Pros, but they all rub to a certain extent. I'm going to go back to 23mm Pro 4 on the back and 25 on the front.

keef66

bobones wrote:

keef66 wrote:

Well I'm not taking any chances, and now have a 23mm Pro4 SC to go on the back. Think I'll need to fill the existing gouges with something so I can tell if it's still happening. Car body filler OK?

If the tyres are still rubbing, you should see some wear marks on the tyre logos.

On my CR1, the rear wheel sits a bit nearer to the non-drive side chainstay. I've tried 25mm GP4000s, Pro 4 SC, and latterly, Rubino Pros, but they all rub to a certain extent. I'm going to go back to 23mm Pro 4 on the back and 25 on the front.

That's exactly what I'll have on mine tomorrow

rolf_f

itboffin wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Cautiously mine seems to still be spot on, as does my gf's Contessa, though the latter has had much lower mileage.

Speaking of which, we took them both out for their first ride of the year yesterday, and what a pleasure it was :-)
My new layback seatpost was a good choice.

they stay in remarkably good condition when not ridden, much like my mint condition 2013 Cervelo R5

You're not wrong. I noticed that the dropouts on my CR1 are indeed showing no wear whatsoever.

turbo1191

Hi folks. Unfortunately dropped the bike at the weekend and the shifting is out. Wasn't that bad-more of a fall. When you look at my mech cage from the back it doesn't look parallel with the cassette. I've tried several times to get the gears to index but I can either get the top half of the block right or the bottom.. not both.. possibly thinking I've bent the hanger.. and it looks non replaceable.. any ideas?

daniel_b

It's very much replaceable, and or you can buy a nifty little tool for about £25 to try and straighten it. Google 'rear derailleur alignment tool' or similar.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/x-tools-pro-gear-hanger-alignment-tool/rp-prod122319

Wiggle have one for £22, but out of stock for 5 weeks or so.

markhewitt1978

Having constant issues with the headset. It's been replaced a couple of times mostly due to the bearings going but then the steering gets 'stiff' again pretty quickly. This time it's creaking all of the time, you can't make it to it on the stand or stopped but when riding it's pretty constant.