The Scott CR1 SL Thread
Comments
-
I took it into my local scott dealer - i suddenly started to get rim rub on the rear brakes when applying standing pedal pressure,
looks like its flexing quite a bit now
they are checking the wheel, and the rub on the chainstay and the bb as a whole....they are also speaking to scott...0 -
just rang westbrooks,
they now of the issue with some frames and have in the past as stated above, replaced them, as i bought it second hand there is no warranty - therefore they recommended me to seek a carbon fiber repairer to fix where the QR sits to make the seat/hole smaller so there is no play, and if i feel it required to repair the rub on the carbon chain stay....
Just catching up with the thread, thanks for the info, might reach out to Westbrook as mine was bought direct and see what they suggest.
I've got the same issue, although the rear wheel does seem to stay in place, and there no rubbing on the inside of the chainstay. Mind you, I've also had to pay to get a Prolite Bracianno rear wheel re-dished before now to improve it. I'd be surprised if they are any CR1 SLs frames left and not sure I'd like the Pro frame as a replacement, so think I'll hang on for now. Concerned to hear that Westbrook's are aware of the issue on some frames though. Maybe I'll go for the replacement Ritchey Road Logic frame I've been hankering after a little sooner...Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...0 -
i wonder if any of you would mind testing, or posting up some vid of you applying a bit of pressure to the pedal at a slight angle with one of the brakes on - just to see if you get quite a bit of flex - so much so that if your rear brakes are pretty close (as they should be) to the rim of the wheel, the rim touches the brake.....
i think whats going to happen is Scott will quote a cost to repair as its not warranty and i'll drop my pride and joy into the bin
0 -
i wonder if any of you would mind testing, or posting up some vid of you applying a bit of pressure to the pedal at a slight angle with one of the brakes on - just to see if you get quite a bit of flex - so much so that if your rear brakes are pretty close (as they should be) to the rim of the wheel, the rim touches the brake.....
i think whats going to happen is Scott will quote a cost to repair as its not warranty and i'll drop my pride and joy into the bin
I run the pads about 1.5mm out from the rim. If I lean the bike over, while stationary and off the bike, and exert pressure through the pedal, you can see the frame flex and the rim move a tiny bit in relation to the pad, but not enough to touch.
Hope that helps.0 -
cheers lefthook....
no news as yet.0 -
...so it seems my local scott dealer find that the rear drop out is an issue and caused the chain stay run and weakened that area giving a bit too much flex....sigh....seems the only option is expensive repair - and lets face it, resale value will be ZERO even with the best repair in the world people will always wonder about it...
plus the cost of shipping, repair and return .......... not worth it.
so lesson of this tale is, keep an eye rear drive side dropouts for any play - and hope it doesnt get worse....0 -
...so it seems my local scott dealer find that the rear drop out is an issue and caused the chain stay run and weakened that area giving a bit too much flex....sigh....seems the only option is expensive repair - and lets face it, resale value will be ZERO even with the best repair in the world people will always wonder about it...
plus the cost of shipping, repair and return .......... not worth it.
so lesson of this tale is, keep an eye rear drive side dropouts for any play - and hope it doesnt get worse....
Not good.
Have communicated with Westbrook, they were very quick to come back to me and asked for photo's. Luckily my bike actually lives next to my desk at work, so sent them about 10 photos and they are emailing Scott about a warranty claim. If successful I have a horrible feeling I will be disappointed as what can they do? Most likely would be a refund as the frame is discontinued and out of stock and I wont get the same level of frame for the money as the original deal was so good. Maybe just me being a pessimist!0 -
good luck lefthook!!!
i do wonder if this is an issue which grows with the age/km's put on the bike as there seems to be certainly "something in the air" with the 2 dealers ive contacted, and with some riders on here.0 -
...so it seems my local scott dealer find that the rear drop out is an issue and caused the chain stay run and weakened that area giving a bit too much flex....sigh....seems the only option is expensive repair - and lets face it, resale value will be ZERO even with the best repair in the world people will always wonder about it...
plus the cost of shipping, repair and return .......... not worth it.
so lesson of this tale is, keep an eye rear drive side dropouts for any play - and hope it doesnt get worse....
Not good.
Have communicated with Westbrook, they were very quick to come back to me and asked for photo's. Luckily my bike actually lives next to my desk at work, so sent them about 10 photos and they are emailing Scott about a warranty claim. If successful I have a horrible feeling I will be disappointed as what can they do? Most likely would be a refund as the frame is discontinued and out of stock and I wont get the same level of frame for the money as the original deal was so good. Maybe just me being a pessimist!
Be positive - a friend had a Trek Madone 7 fail and Trek replaced it with an SLSROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
12NM is a bit much for anything other than a crankarm or cassette imo do you use carbon paste when fitting carbon on carbon parts?
11nm with carbon paste appears to be fine :-)Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
Three days in the Alps with solid rain and my Scott is factory clean again, a bit orange in places but very cleanRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
right so its stripped back to the BB and whilst there's no water and the bearings feel smooth they also dont spin loosely like a 68mm or BB30 BB is that normal?
no water, no muck and no rust eitherRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
hmmm perhaps i'm mixing up my bikes i think the scott has a BB86 BB
same question though should this spin freely?Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
There's a fair bit of drag with mine and it's a couple of years old now (BB86)0
-
hmmm but is that normal? i'd think there's a lot of lost watts in thatRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
i concluded mine was not normal, and replaced them......... ceramic are lovely
0 -
hmmm but is that normal? i'd think there's a lot of lost watts in that
2 CR1s owned and both had drag.
As stated ceramic is the way. I fitted a Rotor chainset with a ceramic BB and difference was very noticeable from the stock Shimano that came with the bike.0 -
hmmm but is that normal? i'd think there's a lot of lost watts in that
About the same as the Ultegra HT2 cups in the threaded BB in my winter bike. I'd rather have a tiny bit of drag from the bearing seals than have to replace the BB every 6 months cos it's full of water. I've better things to spend my limited funds on than ceramic bearings.0 -
I've stripped and cleaned every part of the bike now which is the first time since it was build back in 2013 (DB take note). Nothing appears worn apart from one odd white spot under the BB shell and some rub on the drive side chain arm from this recent trip to the alps.
I did notice that the fork bung looks pretty small possibly too far into the fork, plus the forks are sealed at the bottom so how that would come out i have no idea.
I think i'll replace the 105 crankset with something nicer, the bung with a hope head doc and perhaps even the same for the BB.
total weight of the bike btw with look keo max 2 pedals, two bottle cages, pump mount and superstar outfront garmin mount was 7.6kg not bad for a cheap frameset project.
including two 25 vittoria open pave tyres and +240g each.Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
so - despite the previous owner sending me the proof of purchase (mid 2011) and the scott book, my dealer said scott still gave a firm NO, even though its under 5 years since purchase, i am the 2nd owner and the it was not last serviced by Scott dealership .
So i'll strip off all the bits and sell them and sell my Scott cycling clothing and accessories too.
anyone wanting ceramic BB and scott cr sl carbon fork keep an eye out on here!
anyone wanting a possibly repairable carbon frame - there's one in my wheelie bin.0 -
Thinking of changing my group set on my cr1 pro. Currently running full ultegra and wanting to change to sram red. What bottom bracket would I be looking for.. is it gxp or bb30??0
-
Right i'm sick of having to keep tightening my headset, has anyone fitted a hope head doctor in their Scott?Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
Right i'm sick of having to keep tightening my headset, has anyone fitted a hope head doctor in their Scott?
No but I got a Specialized one like this:
This worked and I never tightened it again. One pictured is from Deda.0 -
Right i'm sick of having to keep tightening my headset, has anyone fitted a hope head doctor in their Scott?
I'm curious to know what's going wrong. If the headset keeps loosening it can surely only mean that the stem is somehow slipping up the steerer, no? The bung is not responsible for keeping the headset properly adjusted...
When I fitted the steerer bung supplied with the frameset I did it in 2 stages. First tightened it up enough to hold while I did up the top cap to preload the bearings and tighten the stem bolts. Then I took off the top cap and tightened the bung even more, figuring that the steerer was now safely clamped by the stem. Then nipped up the stem bolts a bit more too.
I put the top cap back on to keep the rain out / hold the upper spacer on / make it all look neat / so I'd know where it was next time I'm preloading the headset etc.
All stayed rock solid for 2 years and counting.0 -
how did you tighten the bung more? isnt it forced against the inside of the steerer by the action of preloading the cap screw?Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
how did you tighten the bung more? isnt it forced against the inside of the steerer by the action of preloading the cap screw?
No, and if that's what you thought, it may be the source of your problem.
Completely remove the top cap and screw. The bung expands when you tighten it via the hex socket you can now see in the centre.
From scratch I fitted it thus:
Remove top cap and screw
Tighten the bung so it's a snug push fit into the steerer. Too loose and it just spins round when you try to tighten it fully.
Now take your allen key and tighten it up via the hex socket making sure it's sitting flush with the top of the steerer, and 3mm below the top of the stem or upper spacer. Don't go all gorilla on it at this point; you just want to secure it while you:
Install the top cap and gently tighten it's bolt until there's no play in the headset.
Then tighten the stem clamp bolts.
Test the headset to see if the steering is free / smooth from lock to lock, and grab the bars, jam the front brake on and rock the bike backwards and forwards. Any knocking suggests it's still too loose.
Short test ride to shake things down and repeat the headset checks.
If all's still well, you can whip off the top cap and give the bung a final tweak, and make sure the stem pinch bolts are good and tight.
If the bung isn't first tightened in the steerer, tightening the top cap screw will slowly pull the bung up the steerer, a bit like a corkscrew extracting a cork.
Looking at the Hope Head Doctor they seem to be just the same principle as the one you have.0 -
Oh right that makes a lot of sense, I guess all the travelling I've done with this bike might have loosened it.
I'll check when I get home, taRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
The inner hex key is the one I tightened to 8nm.Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
I have another CR1 problem. Last few week I've noticed every revolution of crankset (under moderate or above) force is making a click once per rev.
Any ideas? I'm thinking BB so may take apart and clean 1st. Seems smooth though0 -
Could be but first check the end of the cable isn't touching the crankarmRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0
