The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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Comments

  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    internal cam-what-now??????????? i had no idea there were types of QR levers - how do i know the difference???
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html

    Get yourself a good set of Shimano skewers. :)
  • a_to_the_j
    a_to_the_j Posts: 193
    ultegra ones in it, and googling shows they are internal anyway

    seems bizarre to me that in order to get the wheel to sit straight i have to hold the wheel and shove it with one hand, and then hold it with my knee in order to use two hands to tighten the QR

    its defo the QR cutaway at the hanger side, its seem a few mm too large,the other side is fine....
  • a_to_the_j
    a_to_the_j Posts: 193
    ........its back off-center...............dammit.
  • W12_Lad
    W12_Lad Posts: 184
    My rear wheel alignment was out too from new.

    I put up with it for over a year and 6000 miles but eventually decided to get it replaced.
    Westbrooks accepted it was a warranty issue but could only supply the 2013 Pro frame and forks as no SLs were left (Sept 2014).

    My options were :

    1. Send the frame and forks back for a full refund. Or send the whole bike back and they would strip it and send me a box of my parts.

    No good to me as I had paid £100 plus to have the bike built up and would have to pay again.

    2. Send the bike back and they would build the 2013 Pro frameset up with my parts and give me £100 back as it's the cheaper frame.

    I took this option and also persuaded them to send back the original forks that obviously had nothing wrong.

    I'm pleased with the outcome and the way Westbrooks dealt with it (as long as it wasn't a porkie pie about not being able to get the SL frameset!).
    The bike rides no differently and I don't notice the small weight difference. I also have a spare set of forks.
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    ........its back off-center...............dammit.
    Are you running 25mm tyres?
  • a_to_the_j
    a_to_the_j Posts: 193
    @w12lad - i got mine second hand not from westbrook, although i know it did originally come from them from who i bought it....

    @bobones - i used to until the spring/summer then i want back to 23mm at the rear.
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    @bobones - i used to until the spring/summer then i want back to 23mm at the rear.
    It's just the clearance at the left chain stay is minimal on mine with Conti 25mm, but fine with 23 and acceptable with 24. I definitely can see that the wheel is not perfectly centred, but there is/hasn't been any damage to the dropouts or hanger. I am guessing you can fix the problem with some kind of shim in the dropout or around the axle.
  • a_to_the_j
    a_to_the_j Posts: 193
    just rang westbrooks,

    they now of the issue with some frames and have in the past as stated above, replaced them, as i bought it second hand there is no warranty - therefore they recommended me to seek a carbon fiber repairer to fix where the QR sits to make the seat/hole smaller so there is no play, and if i feel it required to repair the rub on the carbon chain stay....
  • a_to_the_j
    a_to_the_j Posts: 193
    ...
    hmmm after a quick google, you can get HALO HEX allen key skewers which can give you much more ability to put real force through it to keep it fixed in place.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    The rear wheel of my CR1-SL sits slightly off centre if I just let the weight of the bike settle the axle in the dropouts. I have to straighten it slightly then clamp it in position with the QR (Standard Shimano affair that came with the RS10 wheels) It does stay put, but I don't weigh very much and I don't put out a lot of power though.

    I'd soon know if it was slipping as I have 25mm Pro4 SCs on there and minimal clearance twixt tyre and chainstays when it's dead centre.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Have you checked that the dropouts haven't been eaten by the wheel axles?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Have you checked that the dropouts haven't been eaten by the wheel axles?

    Mine haven't; still virtually pristine. I've been pleasantly surprised by how durable they are proving. And I have RS10s with the threaded axle ends...
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Curios one this morning. Found that the little plastic bit which holds the gear wires under the bottom bracket had broken free and was working its way along the downtube.

    Pushed it back into place - skinning a knuckle in the process, but then the gears were all out of whack and did 30 miles this morning with clicky gears. Although fixed them when I got back.

    Is that supposed to be glued in place?

    rltUmOSl.jpg
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Is that supposed to be glued in place?
    Some decent double sided adhesive should do it. No More Nails On A Roll is a favourite of mine and should work well for this.
  • a_to_the_j
    a_to_the_j Posts: 193
    just checked mine, and there seems to be some bits of it that have come away but the plastic bit seems to still be in place - perhaps its just a mater of time...
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    It looks too far forward in the photo; the cables are running on the BB shell. Are those bits that look like blobs of grease actually the remains of the bits that attached it to the BB?

    Will give mine a good looking at when I get home.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    It looks too far forward in the photo; the cables are running on the BB shell.

    Yes, I wanted to show a photo of it out of place. I've pushed it back now. It was actually further than that, just swinging in the air with only the cables supporting it.
    Are those bits that look like blobs of grease actually the remains of the bits that attached it to the BB?

    I guess so yes!

    I'm going to have to keep a close eye on it before every ride now.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    My cable guide was moving about as I was building it :?

    Was a little bit concerned, as am thinking the gear cables might cut through the frame if left like the above picture for long enough?

    Was a bit surprised that the cable seems to have to go through the two holes in the frame with no sleeve of any kind. I have fitted it correctly I assume?
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    My cable guide was moving about as I was building it :?

    Was a little bit concerned, as am thinking the gear cables might cut through the frame if left like the above picture for long enough?

    Was a bit surprised that the cable seems to have to go through the two holes in the frame with no sleeve of any kind. I have fitted it correctly I assume?

    I'm assuming there's a sleeve through the BB shell where the cable for the front mech goes. I've recabled it 3 times and each time it's gone straight through without snagging anything on the way.

    I think left to it's own devices the front mech cable might eventually wear a groove in the BB shell just by virtue of how frequently you change gear. Front mech cable would take even longer.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    ahhh damn headset has a tiny bit of play again, i think i need a better bung. Any recommendations?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    ahhh damn headset has a tiny bit of play again, i think i need a better bung. Any recommendations?

    I've had the same issue on the boy's bike. Maybe worth asking Westbrook what they recommend.

    In fact, I should just look to see what I have on the Foil as that's been faultless
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    if you wouldnt mind, its getting on my nerves now and cant be good for the carbon headtube shell
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    I'm in the wrong country just now but I'm heading back tomorrow so I'll try to remember to look. Yes - I thought the same thing about Charlie's.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Just stripped it down for the Alps and jeez its dirty I really need to do a full strip clean and rebuild.

    I put some proper miles into that bike including the LBL, Marmotte & 312 its due a good clean.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    I think my Foil has a version of this Ritchey one

    http://ritcheylogic.com/road/forks/wcs-carbon-fork-compression-plug.html

    as far as I can work out without taking it out completely.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • fat_tail
    fat_tail Posts: 786
    25c vittoria paves on mine no problems at all


    well I took the plunge and got myself a pair of 25 mm Open Paves. They fit in no problem and I think there is plenty of room. On another note, I have ridden the bike with the new tyres and I have to say they live up to the hype (and price) !
    Ridley Fenix SL
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    I think my Foil has a version of this Ritchey one

    http://ritcheylogic.com/road/forks/wcs-carbon-fork-compression-plug.html

    as far as I can work out without taking it out completely.

    i'd not considered it until now but how do you get an existing bung out?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    I think my Foil has a version of this Ritchey one

    http://ritcheylogic.com/road/forks/wcs-carbon-fork-compression-plug.html

    as far as I can work out without taking it out completely.

    i'd not considered it until now but how do you get an existing bung out?
    Unscrew slightly (try not to completely undo it) then tap it in. That will eventually loosen it so it can be removed.
  • Lefthook
    Lefthook Posts: 124
    just rang westbrooks,

    they now of the issue with some frames and have in the past as stated above, replaced them, as i bought it second hand there is no warranty - therefore they recommended me to seek a carbon fiber repairer to fix where the QR sits to make the seat/hole smaller so there is no play, and if i feel it required to repair the rub on the carbon chain stay....

    Just catching up with the thread, thanks for the info, might reach out to Westbrook as mine was bought direct and see what they suggest.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    just rang westbrooks,

    they now of the issue with some frames and have in the past as stated above, replaced them, as i bought it second hand there is no warranty - therefore they recommended me to seek a carbon fiber repairer to fix where the QR sits to make the seat/hole smaller so there is no play, and if i feel it required to repair the rub on the carbon chain stay....

    Just catching up with the thread, thanks for the info, might reach out to Westbrook as mine was bought direct and see what they suggest.

    Try contacting them instead.


    ( :twisted: pet hate: Reaching out is what zombies do....)
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.