The Scott CR1 SL Thread
Comments
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Very nice, but I think a silver chain would look better.Finally got round to building it! On the look out for a bargain red crank. Will cut and take down the handlebars when i can face tweaking again.
http://postimage.org/app.php0 -
Finally got round to building it! On the look out for a bargain red crank. Will cut and take down the handlebars when i can face tweaking again.
Very nice, but I think a silver chain would look better.
Haha yes your probably right - had this lying around as came up on a deal couple of years ago on these KMC and got a handful for £10 each.0 -
Finally got round to building it! On the look out for a bargain red crank. Will cut and take down the handlebars when i can face tweaking again.
Very nice, but I think a silver chain would look better.
Haha yes your probably right - had this lying around as came up on a deal couple of years ago on these KMC and got a handful for £10 each.
You have also got quite a kink at the point of the magic link - is it a bit sticky or not quite engaged? Lovely looking bike BTW - but agree with you about the crank and about the goldness :-)0 -
Finally got round to building it! On the look out for a bargain red crank. Will cut and take down the handlebars when i can face tweaking again.
Very nice, but I think a silver chain would look better.
Haha yes your probably right - had this lying around as came up on a deal couple of years ago on these KMC and got a handful for £10 each.
You have also got quite a kink at the point of the magic link - is it a bit sticky or not quite engaged? Lovely looking bike BTW - but agree with you about the crank and about the goldness :-)
Yes i spotted that in the pic too - it was skipping earlier and gave it a sidewards wiggle to loosen it but proving hard to loosen. Its stopped jumping now but still quite tight - do they loosen up on their own eventually?0 -
No, I don't think they do. If it's still doing that after the chain's been properly lubricated, I think that perhaps the magic link is bent. Perhaps try another one if you have one.0
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Decided to try and slide my carbon railed saddle back a tad today to see if it would improve the riding position.
It's a Ritchey carbon seatpost with the replacement 1 bolt clamp for carbon rails.
Put it on with no bother originally, but they require 12nm to tighten them up properly, or they do really slip.
Loosened it off, and took it off completely, as with the carbon rails wrapped inthat stuff they put on them, it's a right faff to get them lined up/parallell on the rails with each other.
Managed it in the end, popped it back on, tightened it up with a normal allen key first of all, and then swapped to the torque wrench, set to 12nm, was tightening away, and then.......
SNAP
My first thought was that a saddle rail had given way, but fortunately on closer inspection, but still quite worryingly, the bolt had sheared off :shock:
A chunk of it is stuck in one side of the clamp, and the other bit is now uselessly short.
I can't get the stuck bit out, as there is nothing to gain any purchase on, even with mole grips etc etc
I've mailed Wiggle to see if they will replace it, just sent them a pic this morning, as although I bought it some 18 months ago (You know how long it took me to build it!) it's only been in use for a few weeks.
Hoping I was just unlucky.
In other depressing news, on my ride on Saturday, I had a puncture on the rear - a big slash in the sidewall. It got me home luckily, but I now realise that the tube was sticking out through the side of the tyre - so the Pro 4 Endurance tyres will be bought into service a whole year early :-(Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
12NM is a bit much for anything other than a crankarm or cassette imo do you use carbon paste when fitting carbon on carbon parts?Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
12NM is a bit much for anything other than a crankarm or cassette imo do you use carbon paste when fitting carbon on carbon parts?
Well I only went with what was on the side of the clamp - and to be honest due to the design it does seem to need it.
I found out to my cost on the first ride when it was not tight enough, and I inadvertently sat on the nose of the saddle when a van stopped in front of me suddenly, and the saddle clamp lost it's position altogether.
I could try 10nm I guess.
I do usually use carbon paste, but did not in this instance (As I do not believe the clamp itself is carbon - merely the shape is designed to accomadate carbon rails, but I could be wrong) - I was looking for it last night but was unable to lay hands on it.
Either way I need a new clamp, but won't have one in time for the weekend now, so the Marin will have to be bought into service.Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
Give Wiggle some grief - bolts should not shear off third or fourth time of tightening to the recommended torque. It had an inherent fault that was present at time of sale. The retailer has a duty to provide goods free from that sort of fault and fit for purpose (it wasn't). The time limit is 6 years in England. They are required by law to repair / replace / (partially) refund. The law is the Sale of Goods Act 1979 for stuff purchased 18 months ago...
I've mailed Wiggle to see if they will replace it, just sent them a pic this morning, as although I bought it some 18 months ago (You know how long it took me to build it!) it's only been in use for a few weeks.
...0 -
Give Wiggle some grief - bolts should not shear off third or fourth time of tightening to the recommended torque. It had an inherent fault that was present at time of sale. The retailer has a duty to provide goods free from that sort of fault and fit for purpose (it wasn't). The time limit is 6 years in England. They are required by law to repair / replace / (partially) refund. The law is the Sale of Goods Act 1979 for stuff purchased 18 months ago...
I've mailed Wiggle to see if they will replace it, just sent them a pic this morning, as although I bought it some 18 months ago (You know how long it took me to build it!) it's only been in use for a few weeks.
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They are sending out a new clamp
Oh and this is it's current look - flash makes it look a bit more yellow than it really is:
Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
Give Wiggle some grief - bolts should not shear off third or fourth time of tightening to the recommended torque. It had an inherent fault that was present at time of sale. The retailer has a duty to provide goods free from that sort of fault and fit for purpose (it wasn't). The time limit is 6 years in England. They are required by law to repair / replace / (partially) refund. The law is the Sale of Goods Act 1979 for stuff purchased 18 months ago...
I've mailed Wiggle to see if they will replace it, just sent them a pic this morning, as although I bought it some 18 months ago (You know how long it took me to build it!) it's only been in use for a few weeks.
...
They are sending out a new clamp
Oh and this is it's current look - flash makes it look a bit more yellow than it really is:
Nice bike and full wine rack - now all we need is your address and the dates when you're next out of the country and both my hobbies can get a significant boost
:-)0 -
so went to clean the bike today, took out the rear wheel and noticed the carbon on the chain stay has rubbed and worn DRAMATICALLY - wondered how this could happen as i always "spin the wheels" pre ride and ensure brakes are working, and checked the wheel was not out of true, very confusing...
discovered that the QR on the rear hanger side "hole" for it is wobbling around when the QR is seating inside it - so if i tighten it in one position the wheels sits right next to the chain stay that has the rubbing - assuming that my weight when riding causes the rubbing - when i push really hard back on the QR/wheel before tightening it sits center - does anyone else have this issue?
i'll give it a ride / few rides and see if the wheel moves back into its "rubbing" position by default....0 -
Can anyone help - can the bottom brackets on these take a SRAM red GXP Chainset. I'v just bough one thinking it would be an easy change over but there is a lot of play and reading up there seems to be a 2mm difference between these and a shimano crank i had on before0
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No, its Shimano Hollotech fit, you will need a different bottom bracket or new crankCan anyone help - can the bottom brackets on these take a SRAM red GXP Chainset. I'v just bough one thinking it would be an easy change over but there is a lot of play and reading up there seems to be a 2mm difference between these and a shimano crank i had on before0 -
[url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19638979#p19638979]UndercoverElephant[/url] wrote:
What were your first thoughts on realising that you'd put on trainer socks?
Ben
Bikes: Donhou DSS4 Custom | Condor Italia RC | Gios Megalite | Dolan Preffisio | Giant Bowery '76
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/ben_h_ppcc/
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Can anyone help - can the bottom brackets on these take a SRAM red GXP Chainset.
Yes, but you'll need an adapter like this: http://www.ultimateceramicbearings.co.uk/product.php?id_product=30"Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
"Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"0 -
Can anyone help - can the bottom brackets on these take a SRAM red GXP Chainset.
Yes, but you'll need an adapter like this: http://www.ultimateceramicbearings.co.uk/product.php?id_product=30
Ah thanks a lot - was driving me nuts - thought ide have to go back to ultegra - do they work well?0 -
Ah thanks a lot - was driving me nuts - thought ide have to go back to ultegra - do they work well?
Haven't used one so I don't know I'm afraid, researched it then ended up with a different bike/crank setup. Would be interested to hear though as SRAM BBs have a bad rep for being made of cheese whereas the Shimano pressfits seem better and cheaper to boot."Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
"Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"0 -
Not had a problem with my SRAM BB. I replaced the Shimano BB with the standard SRAM press fit version when I built the bike - I didn't mess about with any adapters.Ah thanks a lot - was driving me nuts - thought ide have to go back to ultegra - do they work well?
Haven't used one so I don't know I'm afraid, researched it then ended up with a different bike/crank setup. Would be interested to hear though as SRAM BBs have a bad rep for being made of cheese whereas the Shimano pressfits seem better and cheaper to boot.0 -
so went to clean the bike today, took out the rear wheel and noticed the carbon on the chain stay has rubbed and worn DRAMATICALLY - wondered how this could happen as i always "spin the wheels" pre ride and ensure brakes are working, and checked the wheel was not out of true, very confusing...
discovered that the QR on the rear hanger side "hole" for it is wobbling around when the QR is seating inside it - so if i tighten it in one position the wheels sits right next to the chain stay that has the rubbing - assuming that my weight when riding causes the rubbing - when i push really hard back on the QR/wheel before tightening it sits center - does anyone else have this issue?
i'll give it a ride / few rides and see if the wheel moves back into its "rubbing" position by default....
Yes I have the same problem. I don't think it happened initially, but I noticed it after I replaced the original hanger. Thought at first I had a dodgy replacement hanger but 2 later, still the same problem to varying degrees with all 3 straight hangers I have. One was a scott part, the other after market.
I find I have to tighten it down to stop it slipping too bad and then recheck every few rides! At a loss on how to fix it.0 -
I keep having a problem where the the front mech keeps rubbing on the outside of the chain when I'm in higher gears. I readjust it then it eventually after a few weeks works it's way back to rubbing the chain again.
I'm wondering if cross chaining (bad habit I know!) is causing the mech to be pushed to the left?0 -
Not had a problem with my SRAM BB. I replaced the Shimano BB with the standard SRAM press fit version when I built the bike - I didn't mess about with any adapters.
Yeah, the correct press-fit BB is likely a better solution, but it's more expensive and requires you to refit, which also adds to the price if you don't have the tools (tho the 'bit of threaded rod/nuts/large washer' ghetto headset presses work fine) and need a LBS to do it. Hammering out the old pressfit BB can take a bit of force, which is not exactly confidence-inspiring with a carbon bb shell!"Mummy Mummy, when will I grow up?"
"Don't be silly son, you're a bloke, you'll never grow up"0 -
Totally agree, however, I see that as a worthwhile investment as long term you'll want the tools to replace the BB anyway. The Park Tool BBT-90.3 works on both Shimano and SRAM.Not had a problem with my SRAM BB. I replaced the Shimano BB with the standard SRAM press fit version when I built the bike - I didn't mess about with any adapters.
Yeah, the correct press-fit BB is likely a better solution, but it's more expensive and requires you to refit, which also adds to the price if you don't have the tools (tho the 'bit of threaded rod/nuts/large washer' ghetto headset presses work fine) and need a LBS to do it. Hammering out the old pressfit BB can take a bit of force, which is not exactly confidence-inspiring with a carbon bb shell!
I've got to admit I was amazed at how much t took to remove the Shimano BB!0 -
Had to get my headset replaced at the weekend - original to the Pro frame from 2013.
The steering had become progressively more 'rough' over time, not unusual for me to have to 'unstick' the steering when getting the bike out, but I pretty much ignored it until I took it to the shop to get my gears fixed. They said they opened up the headset and it was completely knackered and it 'exploded'. New one fitted and I can't believe the difference, feels like a new bike!
I suppose that's what I get for riding it through the winter, and for not having a spring overhaul like I did last year.0 -
@markhewitt1978 - yup same happening with my headset...might be time for a replacement too - its been a wet old winter up here in scotland....as for front mech - is it moving on its mount rather than on the screw adjusters?
@lefthook - i'm hoping the carbon is thick around where its worn
for everyone else, in terms of PF BB removal, i had no issues with a wooden handled hammer and tapping it our from the other sides, installing the new BB was as simple as using a vice grip and a block of wood (or as suggested previously, using the old PF BB that you just popped out) -
i went for enduro cermaic bearings (shimano) and cannot believe the difference in the ride.
took about 30mins to do the change.0 -
Totally agree, however, I see that as a worthwhile investment as long term you'll want the tools to replace the BB anyway. The Park Tool BBT-90.3 works on both Shimano and SRAM.Not had a problem with my SRAM BB. I replaced the Shimano BB with the standard SRAM press fit version when I built the bike - I didn't mess about with any adapters.
Yeah, the correct press-fit BB is likely a better solution, but it's more expensive and requires you to refit, which also adds to the price if you don't have the tools (tho the 'bit of threaded rod/nuts/large washer' ghetto headset presses work fine) and need a LBS to do it. Hammering out the old pressfit BB can take a bit of force, which is not exactly confidence-inspiring with a carbon bb shell!
I've got to admit I was amazed at how much t took to remove the Shimano BB!
Hmm yes thinking i should just replace the bb now but didn't really want too. I've removed and intalled bb30's before - would i be able to use the same tools? Got a metal thing you place over inside of a press fit and you give it a whack should do the job. Can anyone recommend a BB for the sram - should i just get this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/sram-pressfit-gxp-alloy-bottom-bracket/rp-prod75586?gs=1&gclid=CNiUu4DG6cYCFQWWtAodbRoOTg&gclsrc=aw.ds#
or this
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-bb86-gxp-pressfit-team-bottom-bracket/0 -
wheel still in place after an hours ride on bumpy road today...........hoping it stays that way.0
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spoke to soon, got home and the wheel was out of alignment again.
took it off and placed it back on aligned and tightened the UTTER HELL out of the QR
lets see now...........................0 -
What QR skewers are you using? If you're not using internal cam types then that'd be my first port of call.spoke to soon, got home and the wheel was out of alignment again.
took it off and placed it back on aligned and tightened the UTTER HELL out of the QR
lets see now...........................0 -
internal cam-what-now??????????? i had no idea there were types of QR levers - how do i know the difference???0
