The Scott CR1 SL Thread

a_to_the_j

cool. let us know how it goes and the difference you feel!

markhewitt1978

a_to_the_j wrote:

cool. let us know how it goes and the difference you feel!

Indeed I would be interested to hear what the difference is. My bike does feel draggy but I've always put it down to lack of fitness etc

If I was changing the BB what type should I buy?

daniel_b

Undercover Elephant, about 10 pages ago, went for one of these in Angluar contact spec:

http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-pressfit-86-92-bottom-bracket-w-angular-contact-bearings-shimano-compatible


I would be interested to know how he got on with it, and also how Konkordski gets on with his.
I added the above link to my 'Bike maintenance' folder in my e-mail for future reference, so may do the same with the Hope one if a link is available.

UndercoverElephant

Daniel B wrote:

Undercover Elephant, about 10 pages ago, went for one of these in Angluar contact spec:

http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufacturing-pressfit-86-92-bottom-bracket-w-angular-contact-bearings-shimano-compatible


I would be interested to know how he got on with it, and also how Konkordski gets on with his.
I added the above link to my 'Bike maintenance' folder in my e-mail for future reference, so may do the same with the Hope one if a link is available.

It's lurvely. Very smooth and creak free so far. Not quite as spinny as the Hope on the Equilibrium (which has, admittedly, done the best part of 8,000 miles though, so has loosened off a bit), but after about 500 miles, I've had no problems.

Very nice indeed, it's soo smooooth!

daniel_b

UndercoverElephant wrote:

It's lurvely. Very smooth and creak free so far. Not quite as spinny as the Hope on the Equilibrium (which has, admittedly, done the best part of 8,000 miles though, so has loosened off a bit), but after about 500 miles, I've had no problems.

Very nice indeed, it's soo smooooth!

Sounds good!

It's pretty good value to at £50, versus the cheapest I can see for the Hope is about £95, though the Hope at that price has the ceramic bearings, and I don't think the £50 does?

itboffin

talking of ceramic bearings have you looked at the actual difference in friction from good steel to ceramic?

nothing at all in it, snake oil.

and yes i've fallen foul twice so far, super record BB & a token ceramic which i have to admit felt great but then again i think thats just because of the previous plain old stainless steel comparisions.

UndercoverElephant

Nope, I went for the angular-contact stainless-steel version, though they do a ceramic (http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... atible-red) and a regular stainless version (http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... ible-black) which are slightly more and less expensive respectively.

The ceramic is listed as the best for racing, angular the best for durability and stainless the best for economy. It depends what you prefer. Seem a very good quality product so far.

daniel_b

Gents,

just looking to get something in for the future as to when I need a new headset - I think this was mentioned a way back in another post, but would this be the correct fitment do you know?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-wcs-carbon-3k-press-fit-headset/

itsrob

Good evening folks,
A derailleur caused some cosmetic damage to my carbon frame last summer. The cosmetic damage seems to have become actual damage and the bike is suggested not to be ridden at all!!
There are a couple of canyon CF SL frames for sale, but I saw the CR1 for new.

Any pointers?
I think the difference is going to be about £120 - £150
Plus for the scott - its new.
Plus for the canyon its cheaper and integral cabling, comes with handlebars / stem / seatpost I don't especially need those but some resale value
Size wise I'm 5 11 so medium or large are both doable, - Scott would be medium, canyon a large

Negative scott the outside cabling, canyon that its not new and I'm trusting its been looked after
what do people think?

cheers
Rob

keef66

I like the fact my CR1 has it's cables on the outside; the only downside is the downtube cable stops don't take barrel adjusters. Not an issue for the rear mech but I've now fitted one for the front

itsrob

Keef - thanks for the reply - why? (out of interest?)

keef66

itsrob wrote:

Keef - thanks for the reply - why? (out of interest?)

Just a lot quicker / easier to replace them when required.

And you can unseat the gear outer from a frame stop to give you enough slack in the cable to push it back through the shifter to inspect the nipple end for fraying inside the shifter without unclamping it at the mech

itsrob

I can understand that, I'm bitten by the maintenance so tend to take it to the LBS for anything I'm sure its simple but had I have taken it there when changing to compare instead of getting mate to do it I wouldn't be looking for a new frame at the moment

markhewitt1978

Had mine into the LBS at the weekend as the front mech was completely out of alignment. However while he was on he took the crank off and greased the BB. Feels much smoother to ride now.

a_to_the_j

i thought i had this sorted, but now i am confused.
I have a standard PF30 shimano BB which allows me to run ultegra double
the BB is rubbish so want to keep the crankset and upgrade to a wheel manu/rotor type BB - the outboard one with angular bearings ....

but ,as it haa outboard bits on either end, yet my current PF30 has no outboard bits - so. will the crank axle still reach through to the other side for the other arm??????

do i have to buy a new crank?

UndercoverElephant

a_to_the_j wrote:

i thought i had this sorted, but now i am confused.
I have a standard PF30 shimano BB which allows me to run ultegra double
the BB is rubbish so want to keep the crankset and upgrade to a wheel manu/rotor type BB - the outboard one with angular bearings ....

but ,as it haa outboard bits on either end, yet my current PF30 has no outboard bits - so. will the crank axle still reach through to the other side for the other arm??????

do i have to buy a new crank?

The CR1 is definitely BB86, well at least the one I have is. Simple way to check would be to look and see what's written on the current BB.

patrickf

As above, CR1 SL is BB86. CR1 Pro came in BB86 and BSA.

keef66

As far as I know Scott only ever did the CR1 in BSA threaded and pressfit BB86 versions.

My CR1-SL frameset came with a Shimano pressfit BB already installed. Just to make it confusing Shimano don't call it a BB86 but SM-BB72-41B which seems to be Ultegra level. There's also an SM-BB92-41B wich is presumably the Dura-Ace equivalent

pollys_bott

Started getting some random creaks / ticks /knocks from my BB. First step would be to extract / clean / liberally grease / re-fit, yes? If that doesn't work then buy a better one?

UndercoverElephant

Except if it's press-fit, it may well be trashed by the time you manage to extract it.

MonkeyMonster

So pondering buying the 2013 frame and building up my tart bike http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 13-p213658 this one because I can being small than some of you giants on here...
Anyone wish to tell that of course its a good idea?

a_to_the_j

ahaaaa thanksyous very much
hmm it seems the pf bb that i ordered is indeed 86.5mm from a few years ago
http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0085TB9A8/r ... 71_TE_item

so - that means i have to get the same bb but a better one from wheels mfg, because there does not seem to be any kind of outboard bb in the 86 size....

daniel_b

Daniel B wrote:

Gents,

just looking to get something in for the future as to when I need a new headset - I think this was mentioned a way back in another post, but would this be the correct fitment do you know?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-wcs-carbon-3k-press-fit-headset/

I've just taken delivery of this headset, and it does look lovely, and comes with a star nut expander thing, but I guess if you used it you would just bin that and it should work with the expander bung that came with the forks.

Anyway, dissapointingly the blingy carbon top cap - wrong word, but the bit that sits closest to the frame before the spacers (if you have them) and stem, is probably 2-3mm bigger than the current one, so I think if I lost a 5mm spacer it would be too much, and I would have to chop the steerer for a second time.
Can't be bothered with that, so will send it back I think.

Wiggle price matched rose bike if anyone is interested, came in at about £46.

UndercoverElephant

MonkeyMonster wrote:

So pondering buying the 2013 frame and building up my tart bike http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 13-p213658 this one because I can being small than some of you giants on here...
Anyone wish to tell that of course its a good idea?

Sorry I'm late. Yes, buy it. It's a great bike and an even better bargain.

turbo1191

Hey folks.. just after a couple of pointers. First off- bike has been built now for a couple of months and im getting a ticking/clicking noise from what i think is the b/brackert area.. any suggestions? Also, how do you guys keep the matt finish clean.. especially below the bottle holder on the downtube- Im finding it difficult to get the residue off that my water has left(with sis tabs in it)?

a_to_the_j

enduro works ceramic bb installed - took about 10 mins,
old shimano one knocked out with back end of wood handled hammer,
installed the new one with a G clamp and wood

all clicking gone, the cranks run nice and free

turbo1191

Sorted the bottom bracket thanks to previous post. With regards to cleaning the matt frame, anyone any pointers on keeping it clean?

itboffin

turbo1191 wrote:

Sorted the bottom bracket thanks to previous post. With regards to cleaning the matt frame, anyone any pointers on keeping it clean?

water and a nylon dish brush

itboffin

i feel like such a fool, since i've had my Scott i've used SRAM a cassette which IMO look and work better than a 105 cassettes and are cheaper i've installed it with a hub spacer as you do with Shimano 10 speed, well today was the final straw i stopped mid ride about 10 times to try and find out why my Scott sounds like a can full of nails over anything other than perfect roads.

Initially i thought perhaps the chain was too long but no its much simpler than that, there's no need for a spacer when running ultegra wheels with a SRAM cassette, a quick test ride confirms the totally silent drive train i now have.

:roll:

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

i feel like such a fool, since i've had my Scott i've used SRAM a cassette which IMO look and work better than a 105 cassettes and are cheaper i've installed it with a hub spacer as you do with Shimano 10 speed, well today was the final straw i stopped mid ride about 10 times to try and find out why my Scott sounds like a can full of nails over anything other than perfect roads.

Initially i thought perhaps the chain was too long but no its much simpler than that, there's no need for a spacer when running ultegra wheels with a SRAM cassette, a quick test ride confirms the totally silent drive train i now have.

:roll:

Fair play for admitting it though, but there's no reason to think that a 10spd SRAM cassette would not require a spacer really is there - wonder if that means you can't fit an 11spd SRAM on there.

My CR1 is nearly finally finished - only 2 years down the line, I am guessing many people will already know the colour scheme.
Handlebar and hood position finalised and torqued up at the weekend, just need to get the bar tape on and re-apply some frame protection, as the current matte stuff (although it went perfectly on the Minute) isn't sticking properly on this frame - planning to use a hair dryer to heat it up, but not sure whether to do it before application or as soon as I have applied it, anyone carried it out succesfully?

The Contessa is also finished, so will get pics up of both soon to bore you with