The Scott CR1 SL Thread
Comments
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Mine came out of winter hibernation on Tuesday for 75 miles around the wolds of NE Leics... what a blast after months on an alloy pannier-laden commuter, just a beautiful bike to ride... eternal thanks to whoever first posted the Westbrooks link.0
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funny because i pulled out my old alloy tourer and it spins up so much nicer than the SL, after cleaning up the the chain and new rear mech it all came down to the usual suspect --- BB30 --- it was not rotating freely, so have decided to bin it and get something praxis/wheel manu/fsa sleeve and new chainset....0
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Hey folks. Im thinking of going for the CR1 pro frame from Westbrooks. Just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction r.e frame size? ive looked at both frames geo online and if I was to stick with the top tube length of my defy which is 575mm that would put me on a XL cr1. If I went for a large cr1 the top tube would come down to 560mm and I think would be very upright and short. Im 6ft 2" with a 34" inseam and gorilla like arms.. anyone with a similar bike and similar proportions? :?0
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I'm 6'2" with an inseam something like 33/34 and I got an xl of the 2012 cr1 pro last year, it's the size I thought I'd need and the fellas at westbrooks agreed when I phoned them. Assuming huge geometry is the same, I'd say you'll be fine with an xl.0
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Well at long last mine is being built up. It's a DA 9001/Reynolds Assault/Ritchey build. I bought the wheels at the end of last season and the groupset in Ribble's recent sale. Just spent a happy couple of hours in the garage. Headset/forks on, ders and brakes on and saddle/seatpost in.
I'm in no rush (obviously!) and am doing this as retail therapy instead of riding as I've fecked my back. This limits standing so have to build in small doses.
Pics will follow.0 -
has anyone had any problems with the richey setback carbon post - mine needs mega-over-tightening to stop the seat from tilting back/fowards after a while - the rails sit perfectly in the clamp, but as i said it well over the recom. torque settings....0
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a_to_the_j wrote:has anyone had any problems with the richey setback carbon post - mine needs mega-over-tightening to stop the seat from tilting back/fowards after a while - the rails sit perfectly in the clamp, but as i said it well over the recom. torque settings....
I have that problem with any seatpost with a single-bolt design. I'm no bloater either.0 -
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^ lovely looking bike, the deep rims make all the difference! I want them for mine now though, but not a chance they'll be Reynolds!0
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i'll second that about those deep rims! lovely.
whats the BB you went for?
bike looks great. have fun on it0 -
I've just used the Shimano BB the frame came with. Just weighed it; 7.2kg :-/0
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Lovely build.. mine is in at the lbs just now.. similar build except I've got ultegra. Can't wait to get it back. Rims look really good on it.0
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Looks lovely Boblo, fine work!Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
Scott CR1 SL 12
Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
Scott Foil 180 -
has anyone fitted a triple? (hides behind sofa in fear)0
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dam thats another reason to ditch the pf/bb30.
anyone any ideas on a crankset that can fit a wide range of chainring sizes? if i buy a compact double, can i effectively buy new inner and outer and make them larger chainrings when i need them and go back to compact when i dont (modifying the front der. height accordingly). i really dont want to have to get a triple shifter!0 -
SRAM apex will give you a massive gear rangeRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
thanks for that info.
i guess i could quickly order the wheel manu 24mm adaptors HT2 and a HT2 compact from Wiggle and a minor front derail. adjustment and be all ready to go?
edit: 24mm adaptors = 26.99 + ht2 compact at 45.99 = 72quid
and
bb30 compact crankset = 187.00 !
unbelievable.0 -
a_to_the_j wrote:thanks for that info.
i guess i could quickly order the wheel manu 24mm adaptors HT2 and a HT2 compact from Wiggle and a minor front derail. adjustment and be all ready to go?
edit: 24mm adaptors = 26.99 + ht2 compact at 45.99 = 72quid
and
bb30 compact crankset = 187.00 !
unbelievable.
The CR1 is BB86, so it takes a standard Shimano crankset. Just not a triple.0 -
mines a bb30 for sure.0
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UndercoverElephant wrote:a_to_the_j wrote:thanks for that info.
i guess i could quickly order the wheel manu 24mm adaptors HT2 and a HT2 compact from Wiggle and a minor front derail. adjustment and be all ready to go?
edit: 24mm adaptors = 26.99 + ht2 compact at 45.99 = 72quid
and
bb30 compact crankset = 187.00 !
unbelievable.
The CR1 is BB86, so it takes a standard Shimano crankset. Just not a triple.
Mine has a 105 5603 triple on it. Press-fit Shimano BB. Had to take off the granny ring and file off some of the pointless inner projections in order to make it clear the outside of the BB shell. (Take a look at the exploded parts diagram on Shimano tech docs and you'll see what I mean about the shape of the 5603 inner ring)
Interestingly the 5703 inner chainring looks like it would be OK without any modification...0 -
Its a quick tyre change and steady few hours shake down ride this Sat before into the bike box for Spain
Holay!Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
Actually got round to chopping down the steerer tube last night. Did it with a new junior hacksaw blade in a couple of minutes; not quite sure what the fuss is about.
Has anyone found that the Scott-supplied expanding bung is... erm..... crap?Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
@itboffin - where are you off to in Spain ???0
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Mallorca for the 312Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -
awesome. good luck and enjoy!!!!0
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davis wrote:Actually got round to chopping down the steerer tube last night. Did it with a new junior hacksaw blade in a couple of minutes; not quite sure what the fuss is about.
Has anyone found that the Scott-supplied expanding bung is... erm..... crap?
I used a three stage tightening process:
1. Do it up a bit by hand first so that it's a snug push fit into the steerer (otherwise it just spins uselessly when you try tightening it with an allen key)
2. Once inside the steerer snug it up with the allen key so it's tight enough to stay in place when preloading the bearings
3. After eliminating headset play by tightening the top cap, tighten the stem clamp bolts and then remove the topcap to give the bung a final tweak now it's constrained by the stem clamped round it. Put the top cap back on the keep the rain out!
I too cut my steerer (twice) with a junior hacksaw and found it a lot easier than an alu steerer.0 -
keef66 wrote:davis wrote:Actually got round to chopping down the steerer tube last night. Did it with a new junior hacksaw blade in a couple of minutes; not quite sure what the fuss is about.
Has anyone found that the Scott-supplied expanding bung is... erm..... crap?
I used a three stage tightening process:
1. Do it up a bit by hand first so that it's a snug push fit into the steerer (otherwise it just spins uselessly when you try tightening it with an allen key)
2. Once inside the steerer snug it up with the allen key so it's tight enough to stay in place when preloading the bearings
3. After eliminating headset play by tightening the top cap, tighten the stem clamp bolts and then remove the topcap to give the bung a final tweak now it's constrained by the stem clamped round it. Put the top cap back on the keep the rain out!
I too cut my steerer (twice) with a junior hacksaw and found it a lot easier than an alu steerer.
Yep. That's pretty much what I was doing, but thanks. I still expect a bit of cocktwattery with the thing as it seems a bit rubbish compared to other bungs - but that said /think/ I've got star nuts in other carbon steerers....Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
Hmmmmm, starnuts in carbon steerers your say.... :shock:0
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Having done around a thousand miles on the original draggy BB i've got fed up with it as it hasn't got any better and just ordered a Hope BBPF41CRN with ceramic bearings. Just need some fandangled Hope specific tool to install it now.
#1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
#2 Boeris Italia race steel
#3 Scott CR1 SL
#4 Trek 1.1 commuter
#5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)0