The Scott CR1 SL Thread

itboffin

Hmmm seems my Scott is too lardy at present for the upcoming Mallorca 312.

Starting weight 18.2lbs ...

a_to_the_j

Looks like a great event - cheap too ,considering all the support and support vehicles!

why do you think its too lardy? is there a max bike weight? :shock:

jonny_trousers

keef66 wrote:

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

Have any of you suffered any paint discolouration or fading? I picked mine up from the LBS today having had a bottom bracket service and saw that it was peculiarly shiny. I didn't think too much about it, but when I got it home I spotted there were a few areas that have that kind of bronze colour that I've heard some matt black frames can suffer over time. I assume they've used an unsuitable cleaning product on it and I've got to say, I'm more than a little pee'd off, as it was 'as-new' when I dropped it off.

Mine is still box fresh, but it doesn't go out if the weather's crap (I have another bike for the wet stuff). The bronze colour makes me wonder if they have used copperslip for something and got some on the frame? A little bit goes a long way in my experience and it's quite hard to get off. Try a bit of hot soapy water on an affected area, see what happens...

Thanks Keef. Looking at it with fresh eyes today I think it could be a question of reflection rather than damage. I'm not used to the frame shining at all. In a way it looks quite nice that way. The LBS (who are very good and quickly showed concern) tell me they use Pedros Bike Lust.

itboffin

Anyone else noticed how tiny the gap between the chain and frame is on the lower sprocket?

I'd say about 1.5 mm at the most

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

Anyone else noticed how tiny the gap between the chain and frame is on the lower sprocket?

I'd say about 1.5 mm at the most

Do you mean the smallest cog on the rear cassette and the rear stays?

If so, yes I did note that was super tight on the Contessa.

Didn't notice the front tbh.

Have you guys all fitted your shark tooth thingies? (To stop the chain jamming in the frame)

itboffin

Yarp
I've always followed the park tools method of indexing shimano gears, which works for campag very easily however I just gave the bikeradar method a go and what do you know it worked first time and much smoother.

You live and learn.

keef66

Daniel B wrote:

itboffin wrote:

Anyone else noticed how tiny the gap between the chain and frame is on the lower sprocket?

I'd say about 1.5 mm at the most

Do you mean the smallest cog on the rear cassette and the rear stays?

If so, yes I did note that was super tight on the Contessa.

Didn't notice the front tbh.

Have you guys all fitted your shark tooth thingies? (To stop the chain jamming in the frame)

Yes, minimal clearance twixt chain and seatstay when in the smallest sprocket. As long as it stays like that...

Deda Dog Fang fitted on mine. Well it was with the double chainset. Plan is to refit the triple, in which case the fang won't go far enough down for the 30t chainring because the seattube flares out as it nears the BB shell. May have to investigate an alternative device.

jonny_trousers

I think this may have been discussed already, but I'm buggered if I can now find it. Any experience of wider rims? I may treat myself to a new set of wheels for the better weather, but I know how tight clearance is on the CR1.

tincaman

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

I think this may have been discussed already, but I'm buggered if I can now find it. Any experience of wider rims? I may treat myself to a new set of wheels for the better weather, but I know how tight clearance is on the CR1.

Yes, running Pacenti SL23 rims, http://www.pacenticycledesign.com/index.php/products/rims/sl23/sl23-700c-32h-51-detail with 23mm Vredesteins, tried 25mm GP4000s but couldn't get the wheel back in

jonny_trousers

tincaman wrote:

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

I think this may have been discussed already, but I'm buggered if I can now find it. Any experience of wider rims? I may treat myself to a new set of wheels for the better weather, but I know how tight clearance is on the CR1.

Yes, running Pacenti SL23 rims, http://www.pacenticycledesign.com/index.php/products/rims/sl23/sl23-700c-32h-51-detail with 23mm Vredesteins, tried 25mm GP4000s but couldn't get the wheel back in

Thanks. I do find it frustrating how poor the clearance is on these things. I quite fancy trying the wider rim/bigger tyre combo that's popular these days, but I guess I won't be doing so on the CR1.

gsej

I'm using archetype rims with 25mm with Grand Prix 4000S in 25mm. It's close, but it fits.

markhewitt1978

I have a Scott CR1 Pro frame (so not the SL)

I've been thinking of getting a Planet X Pro Carbon frame http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXPCRFFD ... d-frameset to use as a second bike, perhaps winter bike.

But I was wondering how it compares to the CR1, as I wouldn't want a winter bike which out performs by summer bike

tincaman

markhewitt1978 wrote:

I have a Scott CR1 Pro frame (so not the SL)

I've been thinking of getting a Planet X Pro Carbon frame http://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXPCRFFD ... d-frameset to use as a second bike, perhaps winter bike.

But I was wondering how it compares to the CR1, as I wouldn't want a winter bike which out performs by summer bike

The Planet X frame will be a painted Chinese open mould frame, nothing wrong with that but the carbon layups will be basic, the Scott frame has been properly designed to be stiff and compliant where needed.

markhewitt1978

Pretty much what I wanted to hear

a_to_the_j

Just squeeeeeeeeeezed crud road racer on the rear with 25mm gators on the back, need some seriously fine adjustments and always seem to have a slight rub noise, but on ok,
disappointing TBH
a wet ride on dirty roads and the bike full of grit and mud still at the back....

markhewitt1978

Even with 23mm GP4 Seasons they were still running and getting mud caught in them.

a_to_the_j

i just thought the crud's would protect the rear triangle and front mech area a lot better, but didnt, the only thing that seems better protected is the seatpost , seat and my rear !
TBH for the rub and the faff to check each ride, i'm tempted to go back to my seatpost clip on. not as aesthetically pleasing to the eye, but much better on the ear!

markhewitt1978

Yup. I've come to that conclusion. Although just using the rear of sks Raceblades is essentially the same thing but a bit nicer looking.

Lefthook

Sorry if it has been asked, but a quick search did not bring it up.

Anyone know where to get and correct size of replacement bearings for the Ritchey Headset that came with the frame?

keef66

Lefthook wrote:

Sorry if it has been asked, but a quick search did not bring it up.

Anyone know where to get and correct size of replacement bearings for the Ritchey Headset that came with the frame?

You could phone Westbrooks, always very helpful. Ritchey WCS something or other on mine

daniel_b

Gents,

today is the day I am hoping to fit the headset to my SL, and hopefully get the fork cut and fitted too.

The headset on the Contessa was sealed, so there was no room for confusion, but the SL headset is different with seperate bearings.



Would I be correct in thinking that the parts fit as follows, one inside the other, and that in this orientation it will go down into the top of the steerer?


The bearings are loose, so there is no tension to hold them into the cups, so assuming the above is correct, my question is around the part that goes up into the bottom of the steerer, so the part that the crown race will sit against.

Do I push the cup in using my headset fitting tool, and then put the bearing ontop of the fork when I fit that?
As I see it, gravity (Unless I turn it upside down, in which case the top one would fall out) will dictate that the bearing will not stay within the cup of it's own accord.

I would be delighted to be missing the obvious.

I have also just discovered the 'Bicycle owners manual' on cd so will take a look at that in the hope of some detailed technical info being present.

itboffin

Good lord man just get on with it

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

Good lord man just get on with it

These things can't be rushed ITB!

Ok, so I went for it and decided the above was correct.........

Headset cups are both now in - never like the amount of pressure/tightness one needs to exert to get them to fit properly but there we go.

Oh and on the subject of the headset cups and bearings (And whilst I have easy access), should I put any grease inbetween the black cup and the silver bearing bit that nestles inside it, or should they go in dry?

Yesterday I cut the steerer - not quite as neat a job as I managed on the Contessa for some reason, and lopped an additional mm more than I intended to (5 instead of 4) but am hoping that will not be critical.
Cages fitted to the frame, along with rear derailleur.
Cassette fitted on wheel (And wheel to frame), and frustratingly was 3/4 of the way through changing over the stock shimano pads for exalith 2 pads, but one refuses to go into the mounting - cross tried it, and the problem follows the pad - have e-mailed Royles to see if they can send out a replacement pair, as they came with the wheels.

Glue should be arriving today, so I can seal around the top of the steerer, and then on Friday I am hoping (After popping out for a quick 40 early doors) to get the rest or bulk of the bike assembled, at least up to the point of finalising handebars and hood position\applying handlebar tape etc.
Main jobs left will be fitting crankset, chain, bars/stem, shifters, brakes, and then indexing the gears\adjusting the brakes - planning to go for a 'European' setup as mentioned a while back in this thread.

I managed to weigh pretty much every part yesterday - pretty ocd I do agree, but the only chance I will get to do it, as once it's built, it's built - looking to have a finished weight of something around 7.3kg I think.

itboffin

a liberal application of sand :twisted:

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

a liberal application of sand :twisted:

Grease it is then!

Interestingly enough, or not, this vid recommends 8nm for the steerer expander bolt.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQe9TJJq1PE

itboffin

dude I completely stripped deep cleaned and put my commuter back together including reindexing in 1 1/2 hours, by deep clean i mean white spirit for the chain bath, taking about clean bearings, headsets etc.

i'm beginning to believe you're just making up excuses to the mrs to spend time with the "bike"

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

dude I completely stripped deep cleaned and put my commuter back together including reindexing in 1 1/2 hours, by deep clean i mean white spirit for the chain bath, taking about clean bearings, headsets etc.

i'm beginning to believe you're just making up excuses to the mrs to spend time with the "bike"

I'm pretty methodical and like to take my time, and no the "bike" is not some office floosie!

Hopefully I will get quicker as my bike mechanic jobs increase and my confidence builds, but nothing I do is particularly instinctive yet, I'm always checking, double checking, and checking again - but I do enjoy it!

RC21

Scott CR1 Pro HMF Carbon Road Bike Frameset - £499.00

http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 13-p213658

RC

markhewitt1978

RC21 wrote:

Scott CR1 Pro HMF Carbon Road Bike Frameset - £499.00

http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... 13-p213658

RC

Ooh! If only I didn't already have one!

daniel_b

The SL is coming together!

Headset fitted and torqued up - went with 3nm on the stem bolts, and 8nm for the expander bolt, which seems fine - undid, and lubed up the expander bolt on the Contessa as well, as wasn't sure I had done that correctly, that also now feels a lot better.

Well impressed with the Ultegra 6800 levers, the shift feels amazingly precise - through the lever at anyrate, not got the chain on yet, but hoping to get that done at the weekend.
Pleased to see they still have the 'trim' setting as well inbetween the front cogs.
I guess these feel loads better as the most recent groupset I ride, bar the Tri Sport, is probably dating from around 2007 or something, 10 spd 105, not sure what number it is, as it was fitted on the bike when I bought it second hand, and that is good, but the Ultegra feels like a very different system in terms of clickinacity anyway.

All I have left to do in theory, is fit the chain, index the gears, adjust the brakes, then take her for a spin round the block before finalising the handlebar and shifter positions before applying the bar tape.

You can likely guess what the colour scheme will be, but won't bore you with pics until it is completely finished