The Scott CR1 SL Thread

daniel_b

Rolf F wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Personally I'd shorten the outers unless they'd catch as you turn the bars - though it doesn't look like they would.

Ditto. Here's mine and they work fine.

Thankyou gents, sounds like you had a mare with the hangers on your bike/s Patrick, what a pain - I have considered buying an alignment tool and may look into it if the adjustment screws do not have the desired effect as you suggest - any recommendations on a make or place to source it from?
Seem to remember someone might have mentioned one of the German sites.

Rolf - your bike looks super neat, but are my eyes deceiving me, or is your left hand lever running your front brake as opposed to the 'usual' setup of left lever for rear brake, and right lever for front brake?

When I looked up 'crossing cables' on t'internet, Sheldon brown etc, he only seemed to mention the gear cables that I could see - I would be dubious about setting it up this way, as it's my gf's bikes, and all of her other bikes have the traditional setup.

patrickf

Daniel B wrote:

Thankyou gents, sounds like you had a mare with the hangers on your bike/s Patrick, what a pain - I have considered buying an alignment tool and may look into it if the adjustment screws do not have the desired effect as you suggest - any recommendations on a make or place to source it from?
Seem to remember someone might have mentioned one of the German sites.

I bought this one http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-gear-han ... ment-tool/. Not had any problems with gearing since.

The alignment won't be causing what you're seeing right now though so start with the limit screws.

Daniel B wrote:

Rolf - your bike looks super neat, but are my eyes deceiving me, or is your left hand lever running your front brake as opposed to the 'usual' setup of left lever for rear brake, and right lever for front brake?

Euro setup. The UK is the odd one out. I keep wondering if I should go that way after riding in Italy recently.

jonny_trousers

patrickf wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Thankyou gents, sounds like you had a mare with the hangers on your bike/s Patrick, what a pain - I have considered buying an alignment tool and may look into it if the adjustment screws do not have the desired effect as you suggest - any recommendations on a make or place to source it from?
Seem to remember someone might have mentioned one of the German sites.

I bought this one http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-gear-han ... ment-tool/. Not had any problems with gearing since.

The alignment won't be causing what you're seeing right now though so start with the limit screws.

Daniel B wrote:

Rolf - your bike looks super neat, but are my eyes deceiving me, or is your left hand lever running your front brake as opposed to the 'usual' setup of left lever for rear brake, and right lever for front brake?

Euro setup. The UK is the odd one out. I keep wondering if I should go that way after riding in Italy recently.

I'm not using the Euro system at the moment, but I have done in the past and it does make sense to me. You can more easily shift around the cassette while steadily front wheel braking.

UndercoverElephant

Euro-setup is the setup of choice for all those who like neater cable routing.

itboffin

yep makes much more sense that way round i just keep forgetting every time i build a bike or renew cabling, next time

rolf_f

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Thankyou gents, sounds like you had a mare with the hangers on your bike/s Patrick, what a pain - I have considered buying an alignment tool and may look into it if the adjustment screws do not have the desired effect as you suggest - any recommendations on a make or place to source it from?
Seem to remember someone might have mentioned one of the German sites.

I bought this one http://www.wiggle.co.uk/cyclus-gear-han ... ment-tool/. Not had any problems with gearing since.

The alignment won't be causing what you're seeing right now though so start with the limit screws.

Daniel B wrote:

Rolf - your bike looks super neat, but are my eyes deceiving me, or is your left hand lever running your front brake as opposed to the 'usual' setup of left lever for rear brake, and right lever for front brake?

Euro setup. The UK is the odd one out. I keep wondering if I should go that way after riding in Italy recently.

I'm not using the Euro system at the moment, but I have done in the past and it does make sense to me. You can more easily shift around the cassette while steadily front wheel braking.

It's additionally neat in the OCD sense in that the left shifter is dealing with the front brake and mech and the right shifter is dealing with the rear brake and mech. The bike gets less confused that way!

And every time I see the UK style cable route to the front brake I cry a little! Those poor, tortured cables!

daniel_b

All very intriguing gents - I think I can't risk it with the gf's bike, so will leave her with the conventional brake setup, but reckon I will try the Euro setup on my CR1 when I get to build it!

My only mild concern would be swapping between bikes and an emergency brake situation, but I guess if I get used to it and like it, when it comes roound to recabling the other bikes, I can swap them over.

It does look one hell of a lot neater.

Looking at your routing Rolf, is it fair to say that you bypass any cable routing options on the handlebar themselves?
Need to look at my Ritchey bars, but not sure if that would put the cables closer to the stem than they need to be if that makes sense.

markhewitt1978

Tried fitting some cruds yesterday but gave up after an hour as I didn't have any idea as to the concept of what I was building. Having watched some videos I know more now. Please reassure me they fit ok on the CR1? No sawing bits off etc? I have a 52cm frame btw.

tincaman

I have "Winterized" mine as I intend to keep riding it as the weather cools.

Raceblade Longs, which easily come off its dry, had to change the 25mm GP4000's as they won't fit under the guards, now using an old set of Vredestein Fortezza Tricomp's 23mm which got me through last winter with no P'tures.

Ultegra 6700 off and 9 speed 3500 Sora on. Easiest thing to do was to leave the shifters on the bars fully tape wrapped complete with cables and use an old set of bars instead, put the existing set away, much less work to do in the spring.

Found an older style Ultegra front brake on Ebay to keep the braking power acceptable and used the existing Ultegra pads which I like. The rear is an Axis 1.0 again with Ultegra pads.

I don't have a spare set of wheels so the Zondas are staying on, but will be kept very clean.

indyp

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Tried fitting some cruds yesterday but gave up after an hour as I didn't have any idea as to the concept of what I was building. Having watched some videos I know more now. Please reassure me they fit ok on the CR1? No sawing bits off etc? I have a 52cm frame btw.

The videos on Cruds website will be what you need before installing. I mentioned it not so long ago, but I successfully use them and now stay on permanent without too much trouble.

samsbike

Just in case anyone needs a headset for the bike I have a spare going cheap. Pm me if necessary.

markhewitt1978

After watching a lot of videos and a lot of confusion I got the cruds fitted to my CR1 Pro. But they are a very tight fit, so like last winter I've had to run 23mm GP 4 Seasons as there's no way a 25mm tyre would fit

Which is disappointing as I'm effectively going to narrower tyres (24mm GP4000S in summer) for winter, when that's the time I'd want to be going for wider tyres! It looks like the main issue is clearance under the rear brake bridge.

I guess if I want wider tyres I need a winter bike! (not going to happen)

indyp

It'll need to be a winter bike I'm afraid as there's no chance of sizing up. The rear of the mudguard looks a bit away from the rear tyre? I have the arms attached lower on the stays on mine. I also use the zip ties which go through the guard, and tighten around the brake caliper, maybe they went on later? I found the zip ties definitely help to keep it in place.

jonny_trousers

The CR1 really does have crappy clearance given that it was intended as a Spring Classics style bike, but then I guess you can't have it all for £500.

indyp

There is enough clearance for larger than 23mm tyres without the guards, which as a race bike would have been the intended purpose.

markhewitt1978

indyP wrote:

It'll need to be a winter bike I'm afraid as there's no chance of sizing up. The rear of the mudguard looks a bit away from the rear tyre? I have the arms attached lower on the stays on mine. I also use the zip ties which go through the guard, and tighten around the brake caliper, maybe they went on later? I found the zip ties definitely help to keep it in place.

Yeah I pulled it back a bit so it's not so far away from the rear, and attached the zip ties to it. It actually runs pretty well no rubbing that I've noticed.

The CR1 really does have crappy clearance given that it was intended as a Spring Classics style bike, but then I guess you can't have it all for £500.

Considering riders in Paris-Roubaix are running, what 30-32c these days? No way you'd get that to fit the CR1. Perhaps that's why Scott discontinued it?

meanredspider

Looking at some of those rear guard solutions, I think you'd be as well fitting a Zefal Swann-R. Even though my Volagi has the capability to take all the guards I could ever wish for, I've never felt the need for anything more than the Zefal with the added bonus that it is so simple to fit and remove.

Koncordski

meanredspider wrote:

Looking at some of those rear guard solutions, I think you'd be as well fitting a Zefal Swann-R. Even though my Volagi has the capability to take all the guards I could ever wish for, I've never felt the need for anything more than the Zefal with the added bonus that it is so simple to fit and remove.

That was my solution, it's very Fugly but only takes seconds to remove and is very effective when you set it low to the tyre.

meanredspider

Koncordski wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Looking at some of those rear guard solutions, I think you'd be as well fitting a Zefal Swann-R. Even though my Volagi has the capability to take all the guards I could ever wish for, I've never felt the need for anything more than the Zefal with the added bonus that it is so simple to fit and remove.

That was my solution, it's very Fugly but only takes seconds to remove and is very effective when you set it low to the tyre.

Agreed on the fugliness! Though (without wanting to be unkind) some of those guards already look pretty fugly on the CR1s. If it's going to be fugly (as one compromise) I wouldn't then be wanting to make other compromises on things like tyre choice.

markhewitt1978

Agreed they don't look good it comes of using what's basically a racing bike for general riding. Ideally we'd all have other bikes for specific purposes. But even if I could afford another bike I haven't got the storage space.

keef66

markhewitt1978 wrote:

indyP wrote:

It'll need to be a winter bike I'm afraid as there's no chance of sizing up. The rear of the mudguard looks a bit away from the rear tyre? I have the arms attached lower on the stays on mine. I also use the zip ties which go through the guard, and tighten around the brake caliper, maybe they went on later? I found the zip ties definitely help to keep it in place.

Yeah I pulled it back a bit so it's not so far away from the rear, and attached the zip ties to it. It actually runs pretty well no rubbing that I've noticed.

The CR1 really does have crappy clearance given that it was intended as a Spring Classics style bike, but then I guess you can't have it all for £500.

Considering riders in Paris-Roubaix are running, what 30-32c these days? No way you'd get that to fit the CR1. Perhaps that's why Scott discontinued it?

But I'm very glad they did. It was the only way I'd ever get a quality carbon frameset. Run it as a dry weather bike with 25mm tyres for extra comfort.
Luckily I already had a Racelight Tk which takes 25mm tyres with full SKS Chromoplstic guards for the wet

markhewitt1978

The mudguards battle goes on unfortunately.

The Crud Roadracers did eventually fit and they were ok on it's first 15 mile installation ride. But I did a 50 mile sportive yesterday, much of which was through forests so mud on the roads etc, and it felt like mud was getting between the guard and the tyre and rubbing. I couldn't be certain of it but it just felt that way, and the physiological impact of thinking something is slowing me down is just as big as if it actually is

So although they keep me clean I'm still not sold on them.

I've been to the shops and got some SKS Raceblades (the short versions), as they don't go under the brakes they look like they offer better tyre clearance and the likes, so at least I could put 25mm on. I'd like to be able to run guards for most of the year and take them off just during the summer months rather than only being able to have them in the depths of winter.

Although I've read a lot of people have issues getting the front to fit so would be interested to see if anyone has them on their CR1.

Gazzaputt

Fitted to my CR1 and yes the front was a pain in the arse with the guard rubbing against the wheel. I made two blocks (about 4mm)from insulation tape to push the guard away from the wheel and this has worked.

markhewitt1978

Just fitted them and went for a ride. The rear was easy and spot on but as you say the front was awful. Like it's designed for a fork with a completely different angle and whatever I did couldn't make it work. So quite a frustrating ride trying to pull it away from the wheel and in the process managed to lose the end cap

Got home and put the stays on the edge of a wall and tried to brute force them into shape and it seems to have helped and it fits now!

Notably it hasn't kept me completely dry like the cruds but it as meant I've been able to change to 25mm tyres which are much nicer.

markhewitt1978

It's increasingly clear for me that I bought the wrong sized frame last year. I got a 52cm when I should have gone for the 49cm - my bike fit said my ideal size is 50cm. Which is why I'm riding with hardly any seat post showing and an 80mm stem.

I've noticed a 49cm frame on sale on ebay for £500 reserve http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Scott-Carbon- ... 2599dc0db5

However it's listed as a Scott CR1 Premium Di2; the seller claims it's Di2 only, is that the case for this frame? That would rule it out as an option.

gozzy

Distinct lack of downtube cable routing there.

markhewitt1978

Yes it does seem it's Di2 only which is a shame as it would have been spot on for me. I'll have to keep looking as it's not an urgent change.

markhewitt1978

Argh! My frame has suffered a failure

The chainstay cable guide (is that the right name) has snapped off. Instantly putting me in the hardest gear. Took it to the LBS they said there's nothing they could do with it, it would have to go back to Westbrooks or Scott.

I've just emailed Westbrooks to see where I stand.



Edit: I found at least one other person who's had the same issue. But in their case they had the original part and glued it back on. Whereas mine is lost.

markhewitt1978

Argh they've said I have to return it as a framset which means the cost of having it stripped down.

rolf_f

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Argh they've said I have to return it as a framset which means the cost of having it stripped down.

Or finding someone who can show you what a spanner does so you can do it yourself!