The Scott CR1 SL Thread

davis

Righto. Need some help. Was going to chop the steerer down today, but found an oddness.
I thought I was totally fine with headset installation (I've done a few), but this doesn't look quite right to me. I've got the crown race down on the forks flat and square, but when I drop the lower of the headset bearings on there's a bit of a gap of about 1.5mm. It means there's a bit of a gap when I fit the forks into the frame. Any ideas?



(full res version available by removing the "_scaled" bit from the above URL)

patrickf

Looks fine to me as long as the bearings sit flat. The race is only there to center the bearing in cartridge bearings.

Koncordski

Yep that's fine, doesn't sit any further down.

davis

Cool. Thanks chaps. Wondered if I'd missed a trick (might end up replacing that bearing anyway as it actually felt a bit gritty out of the box).

a_to_the_j

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Angular-contact. They class them as "Best for smoothness and durability", which suits me fine. I have no desire to be fitting and refitting this often.

oooo i spotted these on a CX forum , totally unimpressed with what came with my scott cr1, shimano i think with 6700 ultegra.

what cranks are you pairing these with....???

UndercoverElephant

a_to_the_j wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Angular-contact. They class them as "Best for smoothness and durability", which suits me fine. I have no desire to be fitting and refitting this often.

oooo i spotted these on a CX forum , totally unimpressed with what came with my scott cr1, shimano i think with 6700 ultegra.

what cranks are you pairing these with....???

I'm using an FSA SL-K carbon crank, which is a little bit of a tight fit (I think FSA expect there to be a plastic sleeve between the bearing and the axle - these have bearings of the right size), but with a little persuasion (mallet and swearing ) it went in OK.

A Shimano crank should fit easier.

scottarm

sorry for going off topic but I built a CR1 up a few months back but I'm finding water gathering in the frame, has this happened to anyone else?

if so where is it getting in? and is there a quick way to empty the water as i'm really struggling to get it all out

itboffin

scottarm wrote:

sorry for going off topic but I built a CR1 up a few months back but I'm finding water gathering in the frame, has this happened to anyone else?

if so where is it getting in? and is there a quick way to empty the water as i'm really struggling to get it all out

yep i've found that, i assume its getting in through the tiny cable hole around the BB, just remove the seatpost and turn the bike upside down.

Koncordski

What the hell is it doing outside when there's water around, it's carbon man, it'll melt.

pollys_bott

If I were to give in to the temptation of half-price Red shifters and rebuild mine with SRAM, I would need the GXP crankset, yes?

patrickf

Pollys Bott wrote:

If I were to give in to the temptation of half-price Red shifters and rebuild mine with SRAM, I would need the GXP crankset, yes?

No, any chainset would work - I run an Ultegra chainset on my Rival equipped commuter.

Unless of course you're looking for someone to say yes, in which case, yes you do!

Of course you'll need a BB to match the chainset.

a_to_the_j

my pushfit is creaking now, could be my pedal, but i want it to be my pushfit so i can get the new BB above....

but then i'd need a new chainset...........

pollys_bott

patrickf wrote:

Pollys Bott wrote:

If I were to give in to the temptation of half-price Red shifters and rebuild mine with SRAM, I would need the GXP crankset, yes?

No, any chainset would work - I run an Ultegra chainset on my Rival equipped commuter.

Unless of course you're looking for someone to say yes, in which case, yes you do!

Of course you'll need a BB to match the chainset.

That's what I meant, the SRAM GXP cranksets would fit the BB86 that's already in there, yes? I wouldn't need to replace it with a SRAM-specific BB?

itboffin

It crossed my mind last weekend to swap my 105 5700 groupset on the scott for my Rival, that's an upgrade and would bring the weight down.

But can I be arsed to strip and rebuild two bikes?

patrickf

Pollys Bott wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Pollys Bott wrote:

If I were to give in to the temptation of half-price Red shifters and rebuild mine with SRAM, I would need the GXP crankset, yes?

No, any chainset would work - I run an Ultegra chainset on my Rival equipped commuter.

Unless of course you're looking for someone to say yes, in which case, yes you do!

Of course you'll need a BB to match the chainset.

That's what I meant, the SRAM GXP cranksets would fit the BB86 that's already in there, yes? I wouldn't need to replace it with a SRAM-specific BB?

If you swith to a GXP chainset you will need a GXP BB I'm afraid.

duckson

Anyone running GP4000S's in 25mm on their CR1? If so anyone problems with clearance at the rear?

a_to_the_j

i run them front a rear - the rear is mighty tight, but goes through.

tincaman

Front and rear too on Campag Zonda, clearance is OK.

tincaman

Anyone know if this headset will fit, I have the SL frame

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-orbit-cf-headset/rp-prod12760?utm_source=awinus&utm_medium=link&utm_campaign=generic&_$ja=tsid:54495|cgn:awin|kw:78888&awc=5623_1413133237_f6110039b866c853a52dd50c69188c54

patrickf

That headset won't fit as its a fully integrated one. You need a semi integrated headset (aka zero stack?) that comes with the cups to press into the frame.

tincaman

Let me try again, I just need the bearings really, would these do?

UndercoverElephant

tincaman wrote:

Let me try again, I just need the bearings really, would these do?

Nope, they're invisible.

patrickf

tincaman wrote:

Let me try again, I just need the bearings really, would these do?

I thought Ritchey bearings used a different angle? Not sure, but I'd either buy Ritchey bearings or replace the headset. I can so far recommend the Hope headset.

duckson

a_to_the_j wrote:

i run them front a rear - the rear is mighty tight, but goes through.

What rims as a matter of interest?

tincaman wrote:

Front and rear too on Campag Zonda, clearance is OK.

Mine are Zonda's as well, just fitted them and there is plenty of room on the rears.

markhewitt1978

Anyone got Crud Roadracers fitted? Any news on the clearance of them? Especially with GP4000S or GP 4 Seasons.

(I had SKS Raceblades on last winter which fit with my GP4 Seasons 23mm but not with my summer GP4000S 23mm, I'd like guards which I could fit for either, and perhaps even go 25mm GP4S)

indyp

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Anyone got Crud Roadracers fitted? Any news on the clearance of them? Especially with GP4000S or GP 4 Seasons.

(I had SKS Raceblades on last winter which fit with my GP4 Seasons 23mm but not with my summer GP4000S 23mm, I'd like guards which I could fit for either, and perhaps even go 25mm GP4S)

had them on for over a year, also leave them on during summer and I've had no trouble with 23mm GP4000S. The front may need re-adjusting now and then as it can rub a bit, but if a pain some body has recommended adding heat to shape it, although I've not bothered. I do leave a piece of rag between the front tyre and guard when not in use and it seems to work.

markhewitt1978

That's reassuring to hear if they fit 23mm GP4000S they will definitely work with 23mm GP 4 Seasons which I use in the winter. Question is will they work with 25mm GP 4 Seasons which is what I really want to run.

daniel_b

So the second slowest CR1 (Contessa) build is not far from completion, just in time for winter.

I have a couple of questions.

I've never had a bike with all the cables under the bar tape, so have nothing to compare with - to add to this I have decided to 'cross' the gear cables - does the above look ok, ie is the routing reasonable, and or is there blatantly too much or too little cable present?
The bars can turn fully without any hindrance.
Additionally, I fitted the rear derailleur some time ago, but only today noticed that the jockey wheels are sitting somewhere under gears 8 & 9 - I thought, hopefully incorrectly, that in an uncabled state it would slip all the way across to gear 10 - am I missing something, do I need to fit the cable and chain and tinker with the high/low screws?

patrickf

Personally I'd shorten the outers unless they'd catch as you turn the bars - though it doesn't look like they would.

When fitting any derailleur you should unwind all of the limit screws and set up again. If your derailleur is sitting that far out I'd take a guess that the limits are too far in. I find this easier initially without the cable attached.

Also, I had loads of problems with the gearing. The chain constantly wanted to run off the lower jockey wheel when in large chainring and one of the larger sprockets at the back. I've got two derailleur hangers and both needed bending straight! If you have issues, buy an alignment tool. The LBS I took mine to with instructions to check and straighten the thing did everything but.

rolf_f

patrickf wrote:

Personally I'd shorten the outers unless they'd catch as you turn the bars - though it doesn't look like they would.

Ditto. Here's mine and they work fine.