The Scott CR1 SL Thread

rolf_f

patrickf wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Are you the last? I think Rolf is still procrastinating over his

Hey - it's started. But I've only had the headset and new BB cups installed a couple of months ago so I'm feeling a bit dizzy with the pace of it all!

I'm sure you'll finish it. It's worth it. At least it appears you're not the last :shock:

Give me time - I still have some reasonably extensive mods to make to my touring bike which gets priority at the moment (aero brakes, poss different cantis, lower gearing, investigate the plinking noise from the headset, fit dynamo junk blah blah). At least I think I've finished making my silly light wheels for the Look......

How are your home made wheels holding up? I'm just about to start on a practice wheel before re-rimming the grey Archetypes on my SL.

Only managed a 20 mile round commute on them so far due to the endless rainy weather forecasts. They seemed OK - one spoke on the rear wanted adjusting but the front, whilst near enough spot on in roundness and trueness, was dished a little off centre which irritated me so I've tweaked it almost into line (which fortunately didn't have any side effects) so it's now almost, but not quite perfect! Once the scales I ordered have arrived so I can weigh them, I'll put tubes and tyres back on and hopefully give them another few runs on the commute before putting them under the Look. I think I'm really happy with the whole thing!

I have taken the little squares of insulation tape off - I kept imagining Ugo laughing at me every time I looked at them! They did do the trick though.........

daniel_b

Can anyone tell me what or where the two bits below go?

They are from the 2 different Ritchey headset packages received with the CR1 SL and the CR1 Contessa.

Silver metal disc on the right is part of the SL headset package, thin plastic disc came with the Contessa.

patrickf

Daniel B wrote:

Can anyone tell me what or where the two bits below go?

They are from the 2 different Ritchey headset packages received with the CR1 SL and the CR1 Contessa.

Silver metal disc on the right is part of the SL headset package, thin plastic disc came with the Contessa.

Left, no idea. Cover (i.e. last part before the spacers)? Looks too small though. Perhaps it's a spacer that goes under the top cover?

Right, that'll be the compression ring that sits in between the top bearing and the top cover.

daniel_b

Cheers Patrick, so the metal split ring will sit on top of the steerer, and will be the first part down (After the bearings) followed by the top cover - sorted.

Should I be concerned that the Contessa has not come with such a part.....?

patrickf

This is the order things go in. Ignore the fact that it's a different headset and ignore the star fangled nut. The parts are the same for the Ritchey headset for the SL.



Pics of the contessa headset parts would help. Sometimes the compression ring gets stuck to the cover. Is it on there somehow?

patrickf

Also that style compression ring is only used on cartridge bearings. Does the contessa use loose bearings in a retainer perhaps?

snaxez

Pollys Bott wrote:

snaxez wrote:

Bought Jonny_Trousers 2nd frame, and a half a year later I have a bike to ride with 8)

Here is a crappy phone quality picture (will make better one some time later)


It`s 6.2kg with MTB pedals (PD-540) and 2 bottle cages right now. But my final goal is to get it under 6kg with a few more changes.

Very nice sir! How so light? I know SRAM Red is one of the lightest groupsets, what are the wheels?

Wheels are china carbon tubulars with DT swiss 240S hubs: http://www.wheelsfar.com/38mm-x-23mm-dt ... elset.html
Weight`s should be something like this:
Not 100% sure on the frame weight and too lazy to strip it again, but most of the other weights are spot on from my kitchen scale.

daniel_b

patrickf wrote:

Also that style compression ring is only used on cartridge bearings. Does the contessa use loose bearings in a retainer perhaps?

Hi Patrick, you might well have hit the nail on the head there - not familiar with all of the technicalities, but the cups for the Contessa were 'sealed' as in I could not see the bearings, and they went in as one unit.

The headset for the SL has cups (?) and bearings which then sit within them, so a different configuration and I imagine why the differing parts are required.

I might send Westbrook an e-mail with the pic of the small plastic ring and ask them if they know where it should go!

EDIT: Thanks a lot for the pic, I'm going to save that in my 'useful pics folder' and from looking at that I think it is fair to say the SL has cartridge bearings, and the Contessa's are sealed.

P.S I saw someone mention that the standard bottom bracket on the SL was causing people some issues?
As I have yet to start my build, would anyone suggest I should look to replace it before I start, or is it really not that bad?
If I do replace it, any suggestions?

UndercoverElephant

Daniel B wrote:

P.S I saw someone mention that the standard bottom bracket on the SL was causing people some issues?
As I have yet to start my build, would anyone suggest I should look to replace it before I start, or is it really not that bad?
If I do replace it, any suggestions?

"Problems" is probably overstating it. The BB is a bit draggy compared to what I'm used to is all, and it's getting no better with the passage of time. On the Equilibrium, for example, I have a lovely Hope BB, so it could just be that I'm spoiled, after all, some people seem happy riding along with chains caked with clart and the crappy Shimano jockey wheels with bushings instead of bearings.

For me, the drivetrain (when spotless) feels like that of the Equilibrium when it needs a good degrease and re-lube, or at least, when I would think it did.

As for a possible replacement, Wheels manufacturing do an interesting range in them. I'm currently eyeing up the one with angular contact bearings. Have ordered a blind bearing puller, now just need the press and the BB...

http://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-br ... ckets.html

patrickf

Daniel, the SL uses sealed cartridge bearings. I'd be interested to see what the contessa's headset parts look like. I still reckon that part is likely to be a spacer to fit under the cover if you feel your headset binding.

The Hope headset I put on my SL has similar spacers although they're smaller and sit further in.

UndercoverElephant, any experience of those bottom brackets? Looks like an interesting replacement when I wear mine out.

UndercoverElephant

patrickf wrote:

UndercoverElephant, any experience of those bottom brackets? Looks like an interesting replacement when I wear mine out.

Not yet, but Wheels Manufacturing always get good write-ups and are generally known as a company that makes a good product. Same goes for Enduro bearings, so I reckon it'll be more than decent. It's on a slow burner, if I'm honest, as there's nothing actually "wrong" with the BB, but I know that replacing it will make the bike even better.

Koncordski

Is there anything available from Hope as a straight swap? I see they do a BB86.5 which i presume is compatible? The draggy bearings thing is the same on mine after around a thousand miles, if you spin the cranks with the chain off they only do a few revolutions before stopping.

patrickf

Koncordski wrote:

Is there anything available from Hope as a straight swap? I see they do a BB86.5 which i presume is compatible? The draggy bearings thing is the same on mine after around a thousand miles, if you spin the cranks with the chain off they only do a few revolutions before stopping.

Yes that's the one (http://www.hopetech.com/product/press-fit/)

You will apparently require their special installation tool though.

UndercoverElephant

UndercoverElephant wrote:

patrickf wrote:

UndercoverElephant, any experience of those bottom brackets? Looks like an interesting replacement when I wear mine out.

Not yet, but Wheels Manufacturing always get good write-ups and are generally known as a company that makes a good product. Same goes for Enduro bearings, so I reckon it'll be more than decent. It's on a slow burner, if I'm honest, as there's nothing actually "wrong" with the BB, but I know that replacing it will make the bike even better.

Slow burner my rear end. Slide hammer and collets, BB press and Wheels Manufacturing BB86 BB with angular contact bearings ordered. The crappy Shimano BB is incessantly creaking now, can't stand it anymore. If angular contact bearings are what Chris King uses, they're ok by me.

itboffin

time to dust the scott off for one last fading summer blast, by blast i mean crawl into headwind for 3 hours :?

rolf_f

Just to prove the lightning pace of my CR1 build! Impressive eh?!

patrickf

Rolf F wrote:

Just to prove the lightning pace of my CR1 build! Impressive eh?!

Go on, put those wheels on her... I dare you! :twisted:

rolf_f

Pfft! Those wheels are for the Look! This one will get to borrow the Looks Neutrons if it asks nicely!

patrickf

Rolf F wrote:

Pfft! Those wheels are for the Look! This one will get to borrow the Looks Neutrons if it asks nicely!

Poor thing. Bike services should have that off you. She'd feel right at home in the shed next to mine

rolf_f

patrickf wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Pfft! Those wheels are for the Look! This one will get to borrow the Looks Neutrons if it asks nicely!

Poor thing. Bike services should have that off you. She'd feel right at home in the shed next to mine

Poor thing?! If the CR1 is fussy about hand me downs, she'll find herself without a groupset and bars either! The only things the CR1 gets new are seatpost, saddle, cables and rear mech!

daniel_b

Daniel B wrote:

Can anyone tell me what or where the two bits below go?

They are from the 2 different Ritchey headset packages received with the CR1 SL and the CR1 Contessa.

Silver metal disc on the right is part of the SL headset package, thin plastic disc came with the Contessa.

Ok, so to update the above, thanks to Patrick I knew what the silver metal bit was for, and have now found a similar part (Which was kind of inside the dog fang thing) made of plastic that does the same job on the Contessa - I guess a slightly inferior headset?
I also figured out what the little plastic ring was for - it sits around the plastic split collar, and makes a perfect platform for the domed bottom cap to sit upon.

So today I made two practice cuts on the Contessa forks - the carbon saw worked very well, and the guide also worked a treat - due to the carbon saw blade measuring 2.3mm across I had to add some washers to the cutting guide to make it work.
Once happy with the way to measure, mark and cut it, I went for the final cut on cut no.3, and it seems to have gone spot on. I had to lightly sand the edge and just take one bit down where it seemed to leave a little ridge at the bottom of the cut, but apart from that it seemed fine.
I have rubbed a very very thin layer of glue over the cut surface, and will not try and fit anything until tomorrow, as do not want the bung/compression thing sticking to it forever!

Silly question, and I think I know the answer, but is there any point/need/benefit in greasing the steerer before clamping it all together?

patrickf

Rolf F wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

Pfft! Those wheels are for the Look! This one will get to borrow the Looks Neutrons if it asks nicely!

Poor thing. Bike services should have that off you. She'd feel right at home in the shed next to mine

Poor thing?! If the CR1 is fussy about hand me downs, she'll find herself without a groupset and bars either! The only things the CR1 gets new are seatpost, saddle, cables and rear mech!

What can I say? She's a classy bike and she's worth it!

patrickf

Daniel B wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Can anyone tell me what or where the two bits below go?

They are from the 2 different Ritchey headset packages received with the CR1 SL and the CR1 Contessa.

Silver metal disc on the right is part of the SL headset package, thin plastic disc came with the Contessa.

Ok, so to update the above, thanks to Patrick I knew what the silver metal bit was for, and have now found a similar part (Which was kind of inside the dog fang thing) made of plastic that does the same job on the Contessa - I guess a slightly inferior headset?
I also figured out what the little plastic ring was for - it sits around the plastic split collar, and makes a perfect platform for the domed bottom cap to sit upon.

So today I made two practice cuts on the Contessa forks - the carbon saw worked very well, and the guide also worked a treat - due to the carbon saw blade measuring 2.3mm across I had to add some washers to the cutting guide to make it work.
Once happy with the way to measure, mark and cut it, I went for the final cut on cut no.3, and it seems to have gone spot on. I had to lightly sand the edge and just take one bit down where it seemed to leave a little ridge at the bottom of the cut, but apart from that it seemed fine.
I have rubbed a very very thin layer of glue over the cut surface, and will not try and fit anything until tomorrow, as do not want the bung/compression thing sticking to it forever!

Silly question, and I think I know the answer, but is there any point/need/benefit in greasing the steerer before clamping it all together?

Great stuff!

I didn't grease the steerer but I did use carbon assembly paste between the steerer and the stem. Actually I also applied some on the expanding bung. Had no slippage so far.

daniel_b

Patrick - alas my glue solution refused to play ball, it was stil tacky the day after, so I had to clean it of - it's still easy enough to get to to re-apply another substance - what kind of glue did you use?

Additionally, I have only just realised as I bought ultegra shifters for it from Ribble I think it was, no outers were included, so will be ordering some of them shortly.

Shifters are loosely in situ on the bars, and came with cables fitted.

The only other thing I can realistically do this week is to fit the chain - or is it, do I need to have the gear cables in place so I can shift between cogs to determine the right length required?
Or can I manually place the chain to try and figure it out?
And of course as it's a brand new bike no old chain to check for the number of links!

rolf_f

Daniel B wrote:

The only other thing I can realistically do this week is to fit the chain - or is it, do I need to have the gear cables in place so I can shift between cogs to determine the right length required?
Or can I manually place the chain to try and figure it out?
And of course as it's a brand new bike no old chain to check for the number of links!

The mechs naturally fall to small small - so you can easily fit the chain without the cables always assuming that the rear mech has the capacity to deal with your cassette and chainrings in the first place.

In small small, you just need to make the chain as long as you can without it touching itself on the return past the cage sprockets. But for something this quick, I can't see much benefit in not waiting for the cables anyway. You need the cables to index and it's probably easier to set that up initially without the chain on.

davis

Daniel B wrote:

Patrick - alas my glue solution refused to play ball, it was stil tacky the day after, so I had to clean it of - it's still easy enough to get to to re-apply another substance - what kind of glue did you use?

Additionally, I have only just realised as I bought ultegra shifters for it from Ribble I think it was, no outers were included, so will be ordering some of them shortly.

Shifters are loosely in situ on the bars, and came with cables fitted.

The only other thing I can realistically do this week is to fit the chain - or is it, do I need to have the gear cables in place so I can shift between cogs to determine the right length required?
Or can I manually place the chain to try and figure it out?
And of course as it's a brand new bike no old chain to check for the number of links!

You can go from big cog to big sprocket (bypassing the rear mech) to find the closest link pair that could be joined (i.e. a pair of inner/outer links), then add an additional link pair in (i.e. 1 inch) to find a correct length.

See here.

On my 54cm frame with Ultegra "normal" I think it came out to 53" chain

patrickf

Daniel B wrote:

Patrick - alas my glue solution refused to play ball, it was stil tacky the day after, so I had to clean it of - it's still easy enough to get to to re-apply another substance - what kind of glue did you use?

Loctite Superglue. Any superglue should work though. Dried in minutes.

daniel_b

patrickf wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Patrick - alas my glue solution refused to play ball, it was stil tacky the day after, so I had to clean it of - it's still easy enough to get to to re-apply another substance - what kind of glue did you use?

Loctite Superglue. Any superglue should work though. Dried in minutes.

Cheers dude, ordered one of these already, should do the job :-)


Outers and donuts on order for the cables as well - hoping they might arrive by the weekend.

I'm also planning to 'cross' the cables for the gears - I gather from a bit of reading up this appears to have only positives with regards to shifting, cable angles, and also rubbing, or rather lack of/reduced rubbing on the frame.

rolf_f

davis wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Patrick - alas my glue solution refused to play ball, it was stil tacky the day after, so I had to clean it of - it's still easy enough to get to to re-apply another substance - what kind of glue did you use?

Additionally, I have only just realised as I bought ultegra shifters for it from Ribble I think it was, no outers were included, so will be ordering some of them shortly.

Shifters are loosely in situ on the bars, and came with cables fitted.

The only other thing I can realistically do this week is to fit the chain - or is it, do I need to have the gear cables in place so I can shift between cogs to determine the right length required?
Or can I manually place the chain to try and figure it out?
And of course as it's a brand new bike no old chain to check for the number of links!

You can go from big cog to big sprocket (bypassing the rear mech) to find the closest link pair that could be joined (i.e. a pair of inner/outer links), then add an additional link pair in (i.e. 1 inch) to find a correct length.

See here.

On my 54cm frame with Ultegra "normal" I think it came out to 53" chain

How does he do that without the cables?

desweller

Rolf F wrote:

davis wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Patrick - alas my glue solution refused to play ball, it was stil tacky the day after, so I had to clean it of - it's still easy enough to get to to re-apply another substance - what kind of glue did you use?

Additionally, I have only just realised as I bought ultegra shifters for it from Ribble I think it was, no outers were included, so will be ordering some of them shortly.

Shifters are loosely in situ on the bars, and came with cables fitted.

The only other thing I can realistically do this week is to fit the chain - or is it, do I need to have the gear cables in place so I can shift between cogs to determine the right length required?
Or can I manually place the chain to try and figure it out?
And of course as it's a brand new bike no old chain to check for the number of links!

You can go from big cog to big sprocket (bypassing the rear mech) to find the closest link pair that could be joined (i.e. a pair of inner/outer links), then add an additional link pair in (i.e. 1 inch) to find a correct length.

See here.

On my 54cm frame with Ultegra "normal" I think it came out to 53" chain

How does he do that without the cables?

Don't run it through the derailleurs when you're measuring up.