The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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Comments

  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    That's the stuff I used.

    Crossing cables - some do, some don't. Either way works though.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    DesWeller wrote:
    Don't run it through the derailleurs when you're measuring up.

    Lol derp!! :oops: :lol:
    Daniel B wrote:
    I'm also planning to 'cross' the cables for the gears - I gather from a bit of reading up this appears to have only positives with regards to shifting, cable angles, and also rubbing, or rather lack of/reduced rubbing on the frame.

    And it looks awesome as I can now demonstrate! (Of course, you need left front braking for full effect)

    P1010191ed_zpsec5a4f74.jpg
    P1000440_zps6e1d8c06.jpg
    Faster than a tent.......
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Rolf F wrote:
    DesWeller wrote:
    Don't run it through the derailleurs when you're measuring up.

    Lol derp!! :oops: :lol:
    Daniel B wrote:
    I'm also planning to 'cross' the cables for the gears - I gather from a bit of reading up this appears to have only positives with regards to shifting, cable angles, and also rubbing, or rather lack of/reduced rubbing on the frame.

    And it looks awesome as I can now demonstrate! (Of course, you need left front braking for full effect)

    P1010191ed_zpsec5a4f74.jpg
    P1000440_zps6e1d8c06.jpg
    Very nice bike! But what's with the QR pointing to the back?
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    patrickf wrote:
    Very nice bike! But what's with the QR pointing to the back?

    Looks awkward pointing any other way - I'm not a racer! (though, of course, rear pointing is convention for the front anyway). And of course, unlikely scenario though it is, horizontal is the best alignment for knowing for sure that your QR isn't loose.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Very nice bike! But what's with the QR pointing to the back?

    Looks awkward pointing any other way - I'm not a racer! (though, of course, rear pointing is convention for the front anyway). And of course, unlikely scenario though it is, horizontal is the best alignment for knowing for sure that your QR isn't loose.

    You forgot to mention that it's more aero that way ;)
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    DesWeller wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Very nice bike! But what's with the QR pointing to the back?

    Looks awkward pointing any other way - I'm not a racer! (though, of course, rear pointing is convention for the front anyway). And of course, unlikely scenario though it is, horizontal is the best alignment for knowing for sure that your QR isn't loose.

    You forgot to mention that it's more aero that way ;)

    I was saving that for my counter argument! :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Rolf F wrote:
    DesWeller wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Very nice bike! But what's with the QR pointing to the back?

    Looks awkward pointing any other way - I'm not a racer! (though, of course, rear pointing is convention for the front anyway). And of course, unlikely scenario though it is, horizontal is the best alignment for knowing for sure that your QR isn't loose.

    You forgot to mention that it's more aero that way ;)

    I was saving that for my counter argument! :lol:
    No counter argument from me. If you're happy with it then so be it :)
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    Purple and Yellow Jagwire cable sets on order for the Contessa and my CR1 :D

    Ps - Liking the Crossed cables Rolf, definitely going to give that a go.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    According to my bike fit I should have bought the 49cm frame instead of the 52cm, which would have meant I would be able to ride with a decent length stem and a bit of seat post instead of having them pretty much at the minimum!

    Wbe7hVE.jpg
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    Silly crossed-cables question: do they not rub each other as they cross under the down tube, and if so I'm guessing it doesn't matter?
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Pollys Bott wrote:
    Silly crossed-cables question: do they not rub each other as they cross under the down tube, and if so I'm guessing it doesn't matter?

    they can you have to be careful on that front, i used to run my dolan cross that way and although the cables crossed near the BB shell they never wore, i tried the same on my Trek i think it was and the cables would have been touching the underside of the downtube.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Yes - the cables do touch as they cross. But they also rub the inside of the cable outers and they get repeatedly flexed inside the shifter mech. I can't really see this cross being the point of failure of a gear cable.

    I think ITB's issue occurs when the stops are relatively high on the side of the downtube - if you can see them when you are looking at the side of the frame it should work OK.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Rolf F wrote:
    Yes - the cables do touch as they cross. But they also rub the inside of the cable outers and they get repeatedly flexed inside the shifter mech. I can't really see this cross being the point of failure of a gear cable.

    I think ITB's issue occurs when the stops are relatively high on the side of the downtube - if you can see them when you are looking at the side of the frame it should work OK.

    Correct

    No one likes a smart arse :lol:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • Origamist
    Origamist Posts: 807
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    Cheers. I've be doing 5nm too - better loosen it off a turn...
    Folders
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Origamist wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    Cheers. I've be doing 5nm too - better loosen it off a turn...
    The carbon is very thin around the seatpost! I mounted the collar backwards (i.e. With the bolt forwards) as recommended by others and noticed it put a nice crease into the seat tube. And that was at 3nm.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    patrickf wrote:
    Origamist wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    Cheers. I've be doing 5nm too - better loosen it off a turn...
    The carbon is very thin around the seatpost! I mounted the collar backwards (i.e. With the bolt forwards) as recommended by others and noticed it put a nice crease into the seat tube. And that was at 3nm.

    :shock: Jaysus - so it's better with the bolt at the front but it still bent the frame?
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Daniel B wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Origamist wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    Cheers. I've be doing 5nm too - better loosen it off a turn...
    The carbon is very thin around the seatpost! I mounted the collar backwards (i.e. With the bolt forwards) as recommended by others and noticed it put a nice crease into the seat tube. And that was at 3nm.

    :shock: Jaysus - so it's better with the bolt at the front but it still bent the frame?

    I wonder if he has the correct seatpost.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Daniel B wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Origamist wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    Cheers. I've be doing 5nm too - better loosen it off a turn...
    The carbon is very thin around the seatpost! I mounted the collar backwards (i.e. With the bolt forwards) as recommended by others and noticed it put a nice crease into the seat tube. And that was at 3nm.

    :shock: Jaysus - so it's better with the bolt at the front but it still bent the frame?

    I wonder if he has the correct seatpost.
    Seatpost is correct. This only happened when the collar was reversed with the bolt to the front.

    Essentially the groove between the bolt crumpled the carbon slightly. Just enough to make me decide to put the collar back so the groove in the collar lines up with the groove in the seat tube.

    I haven't noticed any problems since though.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    I noticed that when building mine it was partly why I opted for an alu seat post that and it matched my 3T pro stem.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Fitted the new Wheels Manufacturing BB tonight. Seems very smooth, and even when just fitted is waaaay lighter than the Shimano one, I suspect that with a few-hundred miles it'll be an absolute joy.

    Time will tell if it creaks - I used a little loctite, so hopefully not.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Fitted the new Wheels Manufacturing BB tonight. Seems very smooth, and even when just fitted is waaaay lighter than the Shimano one, I suspect that with a few-hundred miles it'll be an absolute joy.

    Time will tell if it creaks - I used a little loctite, so hopefully not.
    Wow that was quick! The postage is just a bit of a put-off.

    I know I'm tempting fate here, but my SRAM GXP BB doesn't creak and I put that in dry. Never used the Shimano unit, so can't compare that.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    patrickf wrote:
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Fitted the new Wheels Manufacturing BB tonight. Seems very smooth, and even when just fitted is waaaay lighter than the Shimano one, I suspect that with a few-hundred miles it'll be an absolute joy.

    Time will tell if it creaks - I used a little loctite, so hopefully not.
    Wow that was quick! The postage is just a bit of a put-off.

    I know I'm tempting fate here, but my SRAM GXP BB doesn't creak and I put that in dry. Never used the Shimano unit, so can't compare that.

    Bought it in the UK:

    http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... compatible

    Free postage makes it seem a bit better.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Fitted the new Wheels Manufacturing BB tonight. Seems very smooth, and even when just fitted is waaaay lighter than the Shimano one, I suspect that with a few-hundred miles it'll be an absolute joy.

    Time will tell if it creaks - I used a little loctite, so hopefully not.
    Wow that was quick! The postage is just a bit of a put-off.

    I know I'm tempting fate here, but my SRAM GXP BB doesn't creak and I put that in dry. Never used the Shimano unit, so can't compare that.

    Bought it in the UK:

    http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... compatible

    Free postage makes it seem a bit better.
    And you were keeping that from us? ;)

    I'll keep that sure in mind when I need to replace mine.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    itboffin wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    Yes - the cables do touch as they cross. But they also rub the inside of the cable outers and they get repeatedly flexed inside the shifter mech. I can't really see this cross being the point of failure of a gear cable.

    I think ITB's issue occurs when the stops are relatively high on the side of the downtube - if you can see them when you are looking at the side of the frame it should work OK.

    Correct

    No one likes a smart ars* :lol:

    That's bothersome. I've been counting on being both a smart ars* and liked. I'm going to have to have a rethink......
    Faster than a tent.......
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    patrickf wrote:
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Fitted the new Wheels Manufacturing BB tonight. Seems very smooth, and even when just fitted is waaaay lighter than the Shimano one, I suspect that with a few-hundred miles it'll be an absolute joy.

    Time will tell if it creaks - I used a little loctite, so hopefully not.
    Wow that was quick! The postage is just a bit of a put-off.

    I know I'm tempting fate here, but my SRAM GXP BB doesn't creak and I put that in dry. Never used the Shimano unit, so can't compare that.

    Bought it in the UK:

    http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... compatible

    Free postage makes it seem a bit better.
    And you were keeping that from us? ;)

    I'll keep that sure in mind when I need to replace mine.

    Creak-free, very light feeling and smooth as butter. 12.5 miles in and I'm sooooo impressed already. The bike is transformed. I would rate this higher than the lovely Hope BB in the Equilibrium, and it's not even worn in yet. It's even coming close to the Superbe Pro BB in my dear, departed Orbea - the BB that showed me the true path.

    I'm very happy.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Hmmm. Freeborn's about 5 mins up the road from me. I might pop in and have a gander.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Fitted the new Wheels Manufacturing BB tonight. Seems very smooth, and even when just fitted is waaaay lighter than the Shimano one, I suspect that with a few-hundred miles it'll be an absolute joy.

    Time will tell if it creaks - I used a little loctite, so hopefully not.
    Wow that was quick! The postage is just a bit of a put-off.

    I know I'm tempting fate here, but my SRAM GXP BB doesn't creak and I put that in dry. Never used the Shimano unit, so can't compare that.

    Bought it in the UK:

    http://www.freeborn.co.uk/wheels-manufa ... compatible

    Free postage makes it seem a bit better.
    And you were keeping that from us? ;)

    I'll keep that sure in mind when I need to replace mine.

    Creak-free, very light feeling and smooth as butter. 12.5 miles in and I'm sooooo impressed already. The bike is transformed. I would rate this higher than the lovely Hope BB in the Equilibrium, and it's not even worn in yet. It's even coming close to the Superbe Pro BB in my dear, departed Orbea - the BB that showed me the true path.

    I'm very happy.

    How did you extract the originally fitted BB?

    As I have yet to start my build, and it won't get used in anger now until the spring, I am tempted to shove one of these in if the extraction process is not too bad.........
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Daniel B wrote:
    How did you extract the originally fitted BB?
    With this http://m.parktool.com/product/pressfit- ... t-bbt-90-3

    And then you need a headset press for the new one. I used the Cyclo one when I replaced mine.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    UndercoverElephant wrote:
    Creak-free, very light feeling and smooth as butter. 12.5 miles in and I'm sooooo impressed already. The bike is transformed. I would rate this higher than the lovely Hope BB in the Equilibrium, and it's not even worn in yet. It's even coming close to the Superbe Pro BB in my dear, departed Orbea - the BB that showed me the true path.

    I'm very happy.
    Which of the three versions did you go for? Standard, angled, or ceramic?
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Angular-contact. They class them as "Best for smoothness and durability", which suits me fine. I have no desire to be fitting and refitting this often.
    Sun - Rain - Snow

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