The Scott CR1 SL Thread

1…5455575960…83

Comments

  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Daniel B wrote:
    Thanks Patrick,

    nice tip re the glue/nail varnish, guess that just seals up the ends nicely.

    I see some guides seem to suggest wrapping the area you are cutting in masking/electrical tape I think it is, to try and reduce splintering, is that something you did?
    I think I've used tape before, but I didn't last time. I just made sure I had a new 32 tooth hacksaw blade and I let the saw do all the work - especially to the end. I also use a cutting guide.

    The first time I did it I made a few practice cuts as you know there's loads of tube to cut off.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Definitely allow 4mm below the stem / upper apacer if used; as said, the Scott bung sits slightly proud and adds a bit to the steerer. I just drew a pencil line above a spacer, then cut it by eye using a junior hacksaw. Pretty easy and no splintering. Just tidy up the cut end with some fine emery paper.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    I did miss it, so thankyou!
    Your frame recovered from the 5nm then?

    On most of the components I am going with the minimum torque to start with, if not a bit lower - good, or bad idea?

    Does anyone recall what torque setting they used to secure the stem onto the steerer?
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    I've never toghtened mine past 3nm. Always used carbon assembly paste on the post. Never had any slippage.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Daniel B wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    In case you missed it earlier in the thread the recommended Max seatpost torque is 3.9 nm

    Hmmm shouldn't have assumed 5, no wonder it looked so weird.

    I did miss it, so thankyou!
    Your frame recovered from the 5nm then?

    On most of the components I am going with the minimum torque to start with, if not a bit lower - good, or bad idea?

    Does anyone recall what torque setting they used to secure the stem onto the steerer?

    yep didnt seem to be a problem and i've been running it like that for what is it almost a year now, including the Marmotte, LBL and countless 200k sportives

    still best to follow the guidelines, also fwiw i'm running an alu 3T pro seatpost and matching stem which is easily as comfortable as my 3T carbon ones, light too.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • jzed
    jzed Posts: 2,926
    The Scott has developed an issue. Last night riding home there's a rattling. Assume the bottle-cage bolt has come lose. Nope the entire bolt setting has separated from the frame. Looks like the bolt setting has a carbon cover which should bond to the frame, which is no longer bonding.

    Anyone else had this problem?

    Anyone recommend some resin to bond it back on?
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Should be a warranty case surely? Have you been in touch with Westbrook?
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    patrickf wrote:
    Should be a warranty case surely? Have you been in touch with Westbrook?

    That's a little concerning isn't it - how long is the frame warranty on these...?

    The only bugger with it being a warranty case, and say for example you need to send the frame back for repair, is that you'll have to strip everything off of the frame prior to sending - I would assume so anyway.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • gozzy
    gozzy Posts: 640
    3 year warranty for the original owner is what they told me.
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    Gozzy wrote:
    3 year warranty for the original owner is what they told me.

    I have a memory of it being 3 years if serviced anually by an Scott authorised mechanic. Otherwise 1 year. Westbrook have great customer service, though, so I'm sure they'll sort it out.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    Gozzy wrote:
    3 year warranty for the original owner is what they told me.

    I have a memory of it being 3 years if serviced anually by an Scott authorised mechanic. Otherwise 1 year. Westbrook have great customer service, though, so I'm sure they'll sort it out.
    Yeah I remember something like that.

    Well if they're going to be silly buggers then you could always go with:

    EU legislation mandating 2 year warranty. Thing is I believe you'd have to prove it is a manufacturing defect.

    Or

    Sale of Goods Act giving you the right to up to 6 years. Again, the onus is on you to prove that the fault is a manufacturing defect.

    That said, start talking legalese and that sometimes makes them act.
  • gozzy
    gozzy Posts: 640
    What service is Scott authorised mechanic going to give to the frame? It's parts that get serviced, not the frame.
  • frazered
    frazered Posts: 333
    happened across from freshly resurfaced roads the other night, cheap spray tar and gravelly chip surface. bike and me covered in fresh tar, brakes glued up with tar between the caliper and tyre. Road surface operative stopped as he went by to say baby oil / cream works best to get the tar off. long bike massaging job needed! not happy
  • boblo
    boblo Posts: 360
    White spirit will get tar off easily.
  • frazered
    frazered Posts: 333
    What about red diesel?
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    frazered wrote:
    What about red diesel?


    Yup anything petroleum (oil)-based will do.Tar (bitumen) is just the heavy crap left over from the fractional distillation of crude oil. That means diesel (red diesel is just diesel with a nasty dye in), petrol, av gas, WD40 (GT85)ll act as a solvent to the "heavier" elements. Fill your boots, and don't forget to let us know when you've melted through your frame. :D
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Started building it (what's the rush, right?). Bashed the crown race on with a piece of plastic pipe after a little preparation with an emery board and some vaseline, and put the headset cups in with the help of an M12 rod and some plate washers - total cost for the ghetto headset tool about 5 quid, and yes, they're straight! :-)

    Anyone else find the pre-installed BB is pretty horrible? Stuck an Ultegra crankset on it and it's fairly draggy.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Yep, and it doesn't seem to get any less draggy with the mileage. :(

    Trying to justify buying a removal tool and headset press so that I can replace the damn thing.
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • snaxez
    snaxez Posts: 3
    Bought Jonny_Trousers 2nd frame, and a half a year later I have a bike to ride with 8)

    Here is a crappy phone quality picture (will make better one some time later)
    CR1_SL_build.jpg

    It`s 6.2kg with MTB pedals (PD-540) and 2 bottle cages right now. But my final goal is to get it under 6kg with a few more changes.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    That looks almost excellent but the saddle bag kills it! I mean, nobody really minds what you've got on under your saddle as long as they don't have to see it! :lol:

    Chain rings go well with the colour scheme. I really must have a go at mine but I'm all worn out after having had the steerer cut down and the BB cups swapped a couple of months ago.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • snaxez
    snaxez Posts: 3
    Yeah well I just took the bag off my MTB for my multitool and someplace safe to put my keys. But eventually I will just tape a Vittoria pitstop to the post and put the tool in back pocket.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Am I the last?

    scott_scaled.jpg

    Awaiting a little spin before I chop the steerer down... just in time for summer. D'oh.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    davis wrote:
    Am I the last?

    scott_scaled.jpg

    Awaiting a little spin before I chop the steerer down... just in time for summer. D'oh.
    Very nice! Love the Archetypes in black. I have the grey ones - those just seem to crumble around the spoke holes so I'll be looking to rebuild with the black rims soon.

    Are you the last? I think Rolf is still procrastinating over his :D

    My CR1 puts a massive smile on my face every time I ride it; which sadly isn't often enough but it's just so good!
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 11,870
    davis wrote:
    Am I the last?

    Awaiting a little spin before I chop the steerer down... just in time for summer. D'oh.

    Deffo not, I have yet to start mine, but am about half way through my gf's CR1 Contessa, then my SL build will begin.
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    patrickf wrote:
    Are you the last? I think Rolf is still procrastinating over his :D

    Hey - it's started. But I've only had the headset and new BB cups installed a couple of months ago so I'm feeling a bit dizzy with the pace of it all!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Are you the last? I think Rolf is still procrastinating over his :D

    Hey - it's started. But I've only had the headset and new BB cups installed a couple of months ago so I'm feeling a bit dizzy with the pace of it all!
    :lol: I'm sure you'll finish it. It's worth it. At least it appears you're not the last :shock:
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    patrickf wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Are you the last? I think Rolf is still procrastinating over his :D

    Hey - it's started. But I've only had the headset and new BB cups installed a couple of months ago so I'm feeling a bit dizzy with the pace of it all!
    :lol: I'm sure you'll finish it. It's worth it. At least it appears you're not the last :shock:

    Give me time - I still have some reasonably extensive mods to make to my touring bike which gets priority at the moment (aero brakes, poss different cantis, lower gearing, investigate the plinking noise from the headset, fit dynamo junk blah blah). At least I think I've finished making my silly light wheels for the Look......
    Faster than a tent.......
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    snaxez wrote:
    Bought Jonny_Trousers 2nd frame, and a half a year later I have a bike to ride with 8)

    Here is a crappy phone quality picture (will make better one some time later)
    CR1_SL_build.jpg

    It`s 6.2kg with MTB pedals (PD-540) and 2 bottle cages right now. But my final goal is to get it under 6kg with a few more changes.

    Very nice sir! How so light? I know SRAM Red is one of the lightest groupsets, what are the wheels?
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    Are you the last? I think Rolf is still procrastinating over his :D

    Hey - it's started. But I've only had the headset and new BB cups installed a couple of months ago so I'm feeling a bit dizzy with the pace of it all!
    :lol: I'm sure you'll finish it. It's worth it. At least it appears you're not the last :shock:

    Give me time - I still have some reasonably extensive mods to make to my touring bike which gets priority at the moment (aero brakes, poss different cantis, lower gearing, investigate the plinking noise from the headset, fit dynamo junk blah blah). At least I think I've finished making my silly light wheels for the Look......
    How are your home made wheels holding up? I'm just about to start on a practice wheel before re-rimming the grey Archetypes on my SL.

Categories