The Scott CR1 SL Thread

fat_tail

Daniel B wrote:

fat_tail wrote:

Well the new headset is a beauty. It is funny how you get used to worn parts and accept them and then you put in a new component and the bike feels completely different. Thanks for your help with this btw. If you hadn't "encouraged" me I would still be riding with the old headset.

Is this of the same ilk as the headset you have just bought?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/ritchey-wcs-carbon-3k-press-fit-headset/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&utm_source=pla&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=uk&kpid=5360284578
I am just about to build mine, so was curious why you had issues with your stock headset, and how much of an improvement your replacement has made - is it that much smoother - did the original one start out fine and then deteriorate?

I got the non-carbon version. the stock headset bearings got worn and crown race was pitted. The issues I had were mainly because I thought I could replace the bearings in the old headset with the ones from the WCS. But the cups were not the right ones so I had to replace them (or get them replaced). Also, I stupidly did it in bits and didn't realise that I had to get the crown race removed. It all took too much time.

patrickf

Got any pictures of your old headset? Is your frame a Pro or SL?

Brianjohnsonisbetter

itboffin wrote:

God I love my scott, I think it needs to be upgraded though, i'm really not enjoying Shimano 105 5700 groupset, its pants.

I might even SRAM it ................... :roll:

Mine runs Ultegra 6800 and can't recommend it enough. I have 105 on my wet weather bike and there's a massive difference, well worth the upgrade.

Gazzaputt

itboffin wrote:

God I love my scott, I think it needs to be upgraded though, i'm really not enjoying Shimano 105 5700 groupset, its pants.

I might even SRAM it ................... :roll:

I have the same groupset on my Cr1.

Cannot fault it bar the braking. Shifting is functional and precise on rear and front. For the £ only the Ultegra 6700 beats for me.

Brakeset I will upgrade to 5800 when available as I have run Ultegra 6800 and they were great brakeset.

Ran SRAM (Red, Force and Apex) for years and wouldn't go back now.

markhewitt1978

I run 6700 but with 6800 chainset and brakes. Works really well, spot on in fact.

jonny_trousers

itboffin wrote:

I've noticed it before but yesterday whilst riding a lot of that hard packed stone road surface they now pass for tarmac my Scott was bouncing a lot, i know wheelset and tyres also contribute to ride smoothness but i have to say the Scott is a harsh ride compared with my Alu Trek or Ribble carbon.

Really? I read this post before going out for a 35 miler today and thought I'd pay special attention to that horrible compacted gravel surface you talk about and my bike glides over it. If the surface is a bit rutted, as it often is, things can get a little rattley, but I'd never describe it as being remotely harsh.

itboffin

what wheelset & tyres are you running?

jonny_trousers

itboffin wrote:

what wheelset & tyres are you running?

Zondas and GP4000S's. 25mm front, 23 rear.

tincaman

Same as above ^^ but with 25mm back and front. Its a lovely ride

turnstyle

11,000km in 12 months and still as good as the day it was built. Best £500 ever spent!

itboffin

i'll swap my Aksium with 4000s for my Ultegra 6700 with paves and see if that improves the ride quality

otherwise i'm going to need a new bike :roll:

meanredspider

Bizarre - my Foil Team Issue HMX is meant to be harsh but I really don't notice (running RS80s C50s - Michelin Pro4)

itboffin

i think theres a theme starting here, good wheels and tyres. That said I have some RS10s which perform perfectly on the Trek dry commuter.

menthel

Go wide on the rims and tyres. Having changed some rather narrow alex rimmed cheapo wheels for some handbuilts with archetypes which are lovely and wide the ride of my 00 is totally changed. With the same rubino pro 25's on I feel as if the road surface is smoothed out. Obviously you still feel the bigger bumps but the overall ride is so much better. Quite a few makers are doing wider rims now, I quite like the look of the reynolds ones as well as the HED rims. Campag have also updated some of their wheel range to increase the rim width too.

patrickf

The problem is clearance. I'm running 23mm Vittoria Corsa Evos on Archetype and wouldn't go wider.

I have just fitted 25mm Rubino Pro tyres to the commuter though and got the feeling they are narrower than Schwalbe Durano Plus and Continental 4 Seasons. Not measured though.

Gazzaputt

itboffin wrote:

what wheelset & tyres are you running?

Shimano RS81 with Conti GP4000 23mm and Kenda Ultralite tubes.

markhewitt1978

Gazzaputt wrote:

Shimano RS81 with Conti GP4000 23mm and Kenda Ultralite tubes.

Excellent choice!

Tamburino

Hello there, i'm waiting for my new frame , it's a Scott CR1 PRO and in the meanwhil i'm buying a complete SRAM Force 22.
The question is, i have no idea of wich bottom bracket i should order cause i've never seen this frame before.
This is the picture of the frame

Gazzaputt

Frame should come with a bottom bracket installed. if not you need a BB86

jonny_trousers

Gazzaputt wrote:

Frame should come with a bottom bracket installed. if not you need a BB86

Some of the 'Pros' come with English threaded, I think.

Lefthook

If it is the press fit, then this link helps understand the 'standard'
http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-hel ... et-service

asprilla

patrickf wrote:

The problem is clearance. I'm running 23mm Vittoria Corsa Evos on Archetype and wouldn't go wider.

I have just fitted 25mm Rubino Pro tyres to the commuter though and got the feeling they are narrower than Schwalbe Durano Plus and Continental 4 Seasons. Not measured though.

I ran Vittoria Open Corsa 25mm on Archetypes on my CR1 Pro with no issues at all.

tincaman

From a 2011 magazine

daniel_b

Just to update this thread for those who recall....

Use of this to remove the jammed on CR1 Contessa crown race worked a treat:


A light bit of sanding on the last inch of each of the forks with some fine sandpaper.

Some vaseline smeared on the steerer and the inside of the crown race, and the use of this:


And I had both fitted in about 10 minutes, including sanding time!

Amazing what having the right tools for the job can do.

Money well spent, and now the build/s can commence at full speed :-)

itboffin

out of interest how much was the tool and from where?

daniel_b

itboffin wrote:

out of interest how much was the tool and from where?

Hi ITB, it was from Wiggle:
http://www.wiggle.com/lifeline-crown-race-setting-tool/

Lifeline is their own make I believe, but I have their £100 or so toolkit, and it's been excellent, and this continues the trend - feels like a lot of tool for £23.75 - oh and cashback through your chosen website of course

davis

Just ordered some wheels from Ugo - H plus Son Archetypes on Hope Mono RS hubs.

Really hope I'm not rushing this build...

daniel_b

So now I finally have both crown races on, any tips for how to measure the height of the cut?

As I know my gf prefers a small drop from saddle to handlebars, I'm going to stick with maximum height available, which I think from memory is 2 spacers (One domed and one small) below the stem, and then small one on top which I gather is advised for carbon steerers?

I'll go with the same for mine until I have decided where I want it height wise.

So - firstly are my calculations above correct with regards to spacers, and secondly does anyone care to share how they have marked and cut their steerers down?

My plan is as follows:

Put front wheel in the bike, and let gravity push the fork up through the head tube
Put the 2 spacers on, and push the stem down as firmly as it will go, and then tighten up enough so it does not move.
Put the one spacer on top, and mark around the top of the spacer.

I will then use this initial line or piece of electrical tape, to guage how far down the actual cut needs to be, from memory, although I will do some more research, it needs to be 2-3mm below the top cap?

FYI I have a fair amount of steerer tube to play with, so will be making some trial cuts with my carbon saw first!

patrickf

Official line is max 40mm below the stem, max 5mm above. That gives you the domed spacer + 2 more.

The way I do it is fit the headset and stem (no need to tighten) and mark the top of the stem. Then mark 4mm below and use that as the cut line.

The reason I take 4mm off instead of the more usual 3mm is because the bung sits 1mm proud of the steerer.

Definitely make use of the top end for test cuts though.

Also I can't remember what the instructions say, but I put some superglue (nail varnish should work too) on the cut end.

daniel_b

Thanks Patrick,

nice tip re the glue/nail varnish, guess that just seals up the ends nicely.

I see some guides seem to suggest wrapping the area you are cutting in masking/electrical tape I think it is, to try and reduce splintering, is that something you did?