The Scott CR1 SL Thread
Comments
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markhewitt1978 wrote:Super nice
DA cassettes are eye wateringly expensive. I wouldn't mind spending that sort of money on something which I thought would last the life of the bike, but cassettes are essentially consumables.
Cheers! I got a decent price for the cassette online, I wouldn't have bothered ordering it otherwise. It was ordered specifically for Mt Ventoux and the French alps later this summer so will only get used a handful of times a year therefore cost is negligible. I wouldn't use a DA cassette on an everyday bike
Found some more pics
Rolf F wrote:
10 speed might be lighter! Look at the Deda Superleggera/Superleggero bars and stem for a possibly greater weight saving than you expect (good price at Ribble). Smaller cassette if your hills are shallow enough. Lose a bottle cage.
Berk Composites seatpost and integrated carbon saddle would save around 140 grams but it would be specific to this bike so couldn't swap it to another frame later, so would be expensive. Am waiting for Zipp to do a super short reach carbon bar and keep emailing them about it. I love my current CSL bars shape, but they weigh 258 grams.Rolf F wrote:Just sourced a carbon monocoque seatpost for £45 for mine so there's really not anything left stopping me from building it (aside from having to get the BB out).
Nice one, look forward to seeing it complete0 -
MTB-Idle wrote:lose one water bottle carrier and the garmin?
saw off the bottom six inches of the seatpost?
6170g weight includes 2x bottle cages but excludes Garmin, K-Edge Garmin mount and sensors
Seatpost has already been cut
This is what the inside of an AX liteness seatpost looks like
Weight saving of 29g leaves the post weighing 132g including cradle and bolts
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markhewitt1978 wrote:Changed the chainset on my CR1 from a R565 to Ultegra 6800, rides much better now.
Currently weighs in at 7.7kg (according to bathroom scales) as picture below. I'm looking to change the saddle and seatpost but I'm not sure there's anything else I can realistically do to get the weight down any more?
Frame: Scott 2012 CR1 HMF 52cm
Fork: Scott 2012 CR1 HMF
Headset: Richey
Bottle Cages: Bontrager RL
Stem: Bontrager Race Lite 80mm 7deg
Bars: Pro PLT Compact Drop
Computer: Cateye Micro Wireless
Brakes: Shimano Ultegra 6800
Pads: Shimano Ultegra 6800
Shifters: Shimano Ultegra 6700
Front Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra 6700
Rear Derailleur: Shimano Ultegra 6700
Cables: Shimano M system
Cassette: Shimano Ultegra 6700 12-30
Chain: Shimano Ultegra 6700
Chainset: Shimano Ultegra 6800 50-34 170mm
Bottom Bracket: As suppied with Scott frame
Pedals: Shimano M980 XTR
Wheels: Shimano RS80 C24
Tyres: Continental GP4000S 23mm
Tubes: Bontrager Standard
Saddle: Bontrager Affinity 1
Seatpost: BBB BSP-20
Another, and planned to be final update! I finally consider my build to be finished after starting in June last year!
Swapped out the saddle for Bontrager RXL Carbon, and the Seatpost for Bontrager Race XXX Lite, and saved 300g in the process. Weight is now 7.4kg.
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Lose the bar tape, replace the biggest sprockets with spacers and, if you still need to save weight, get the drill out and create some drillium! Also, nobody really uses the tip of the saddle so you can saw it off a la Obree.itsnotarace wrote:Not sure where to find the last 100 grams to get it sub 6 0 -
It has taken me a while, but thought I'd share my effort!
Frame: Scott CR1 SL 58cm
Bars: Ritchey WCS Logic Curve alloy
Stem: Ritchey 4 axis alloy
Headset: Ritchey WCS
Bar Tape: Arundel Gecko
Groupset: Full Shimano Ultegra 6800 11-28, 50/34
Pedals: Shimano 105
Seat: Fizik Antares Kium rails
Seat Post: Ritchey WCS alloy
Wheelset: Mavic Ksyrium Elite S
Tyres: Conti GP4000s
Accessories: Barfly Garmin Mount, Token chain catcher
Weight: 7.3kg0 -
Sun's out and it's warm so I took pics of my 1st ever build, done around December but stored as a 'best bike'.
around 7.5kg in pic
.....and yes, I know it breaks many OCD rules.....I hunting for a white garage.0 -
Anyone running wide rims on the CR1 SL/Pro, I'm talking 23mm+ obviously and if so what tyres are you using?
Thinking of Wheelsmith Race24's (24mm...) and Schwalbe One's or GP4000S in 23mm or maybe 25mm if they fit.Cheers, Stu0 -
I'm running Archetype rims (23mm wide) with 23mm Vittoria Open Corsa CX tyres. Would have preferred 25mm tyres, but there's not a massive amount of clearance.duckson wrote:Anyone running wide rims on the CR1 SL/Pro, I'm talking 23mm+ obviously and if so what tyres are you using?
Thinking of Wheelsmith Race24's (24mm...) and Schwalbe One's or GP4000S in 23mm or maybe 25mm if they fit.
Absolutely love it.0 -
Bit of a bump, anyone running even 25mm wide rims on their CR1's?
Alot of wheelsets are 24-25mm and i dont want to buy them to find they dont fit!
eg
http://ridefullgas.com/k2-carbone-xlr50 ... -1540g-pr/
or
http://ridefullgas.com/k2-carbone-slr50 ... -1460g-pr/Cheers, Stu0 -
I put a new pair of 25mm GP4000s's on the other day. They fit fine.0
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Jonny_Trousers wrote:I put a new pair of 25mm GP4000s's on the other day. They fit fine.
Cheers but what width are your rims? I've run Conti Force 24c with my DA9000 rims (~21mm?) fine and with Open Pave 25c.
Do people reckon a 24mm or 25mm wide rim with say GP4000S in 23c would fit? The wider rim will make the tyre wider than 23mm (well they are more like rebadged 24c anyway i believe).Cheers, Stu0 -
duckson wrote:Jonny_Trousers wrote:I put a new pair of 25mm GP4000s's on the other day. They fit fine.
Cheers but what width are your rims? I've run Conti Force 24c with my DA9000 rims (~21mm?) fine and with Open Pave 25c.
Do people reckon a 24mm or 25mm wide rim with say GP4000S in 23c would fit? The wider rim will make the tyre wider than 23mm (well they are more like rebadged 24c anyway i believe).
I'm using Zondas, which are fairly narrow, I guess. I can't say for certain, but I was looking at mine the other day with the view to trying wider rims and I'm sure there's plenty if room.0 -
I'm using GP4000S 25mm on Archetype rims. They fit, but there's not much space to spare.0
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Hi guys.
Looking for a bit of sensible advice ref resale price on my 2010 CR1 Pro frameset.
I most ride mountain bikes, and just haven't been getting the use from the CR1 to justify having it around.
It's done about 3000 miles in total. I'm going to put it in the Road Parts classified section but not really got a good idea of what price is sensible. Any advice?
Cheers!0 -
We paid £500 for our 2012 SL frames, so £250 maybe?0
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That said, they're collectors items now so maybe more than £500?
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gsej wrote:I'm using GP4000S 25mm on Archetype rims. They fit, but there's not much space to spare.
Cheers, looking at tubs but they are going 25-27mm wide now.
Measured the gap between my brake track on my DA9000 C24's and the chainstays using allen keys as feeler gauges!
4mm just clears the chainstays on either side (actually on the non-drive side 5mm clears).
The DA rim is 21mm across the brake tracks according to the specs so a 27mm wide rim at the brake track should give a small amount of clearance eithe side and i would of thought being a tub the tyre would be ok as it wont be expanded like a clincher would.Cheers, Stu0 -
duckson wrote:Bit of a bump, anyone running even 25mm wide rims on their CR1's?
Zipp 303 (non-firecrest) 27.5mm and there is just enough clearance0 -
Are they tubs or clinchers and what tyres at what size you running?Cheers, Stu0
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They are tubular - Veloflex Carbon 22mm
The tightest part is the just below the brake track (the rim's widest point) against the NDS chainstay where there is 2.5mm clearance, the chainstays flare a little to accommodate larger tyres so 25s should fit with room although I don't have any to test.
The DS chainstay has 3mm clearance against the rim's widest point. I don't have calipers but my ruler says 33mm from chainstay to chainstay at the narrowest point
Difficult to photo but here you go, the GSC10 cable tie end looks closer than it is, there is a good 1cm clearance to the spokes and its well clear of the rim itself.
ETA - No rubbing or marks on either the rim or the chainstays, although these are summer wheels only and have only done a few hundred miles with these wheels on this frame last year.0 -
Fantastic info pal, much appreciated.
I'm in a quandary what to order, I'm leaning towards some Chinese tubs (carbon-cycle on ebay) which are 22mm at the rim edge but flair to 27mm.
I was thinking Conti Comp 22mm or Conti Force 24mm (maybe front as well).Cheers, Stu0 -
No worries. Should clear by a few mm either side, but I guess it depends on their stiffness and your weight/power output whether you will get any rub or not. Good luck 0
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Well either them or Farsports 25mm U shaped!Cheers, Stu0
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Just to update the thread with some info on rim fitment.
Bought some Reynolds Assault SLG clinchers, they are 25mm wide. I have 25mm Veloflex Corsa's fitted and to be honest there is plenty of room at the chainstays.
Cheers, Stu0 -
Very nice, thanks for posting! I might give 25mm 4 Seasons a go for the winter, I'm sure they'll fit the bike the bigger problem is getting mudguards to work with them. My SKS long will certainly not work, don't know about cruds.0
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For what it's worth, I've just returned to a 23mm tyre on the rear. I was suffering one of those annoying phantom rubbing sounds and as a last ditch attempt to sort it I swapped out the 25mm GP 4000S for a 23mm and guess what? No more rubbing sound. I've no idea what it was, as there's no marking to the frame, but I'm glad it's gone. Might be something to do with me being back up to 87kg.
I do think it's strange that a classics style frame should have such narrow clearance.
One year on I'm still loving the CR10 -
I had Chris Marshall chop the steerer, fit the headset and put the Campag BB adaptors in on my SL frame. Now there is nothing to stop me completing the build in the next 5 years or so.......Faster than a tent.......0
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Ah yes but have you had it clear coated yet? Best do that before you hang things off the frame!Rolf F wrote:I had Chris Marshall chop the steerer, fit the headset and put the Campag BB adaptors in on my SL frame. Now there is nothing to stop me completing the build in the next 5 years or so.......0 -
patrickf wrote:
Ah yes but have you had it clear coated yet? Best do that before you hang things off the frame!Rolf F wrote:I had Chris Marshall chop the steerer, fit the headset and put the Campag BB adaptors in on my SL frame. Now there is nothing to stop me completing the build in the next 5 years or so.......
I decided that I'll slop a load of collinite over it and see how it goes. I now see it replacing the Ribble on some club rides when I don't need mudguards but for whatever reason don't want to use the Look (I'm struggling for n justification here!) - so unless I break the Ribble and it has to go into daily commute useage, it's not going to get super dirty. I reckon it is therefore worth seeing how it goes with the factory finish.
I can strip the thing back to the bare frame easily enough anyway and Chris said he could do the clear coating if I wanted it doing so all is under control!
Hopefully the collinite will give it a bit of a shine - otherwise the super shiny Merida seatpost will look a bit mismatched!Faster than a tent.......0 -
Interesting about the Collinite. Got any pictures?Rolf F wrote:I decided that I'll slop a load of collinite over it and see how it goes. I now see it replacing the Ribble on some club rides when I don't need mudguards but for whatever reason don't want to use the Look (I'm struggling for n justification here!) - so unless I break the Ribble and it has to go into daily commute useage, it's not going to get super dirty. I reckon it is therefore worth seeing how it goes with the factory finish.
I can strip the thing back to the bare frame easily enough anyway and Chris said he could do the clear coating if I wanted it doing so all is under control!
Hopefully the collinite will give it a bit of a shine - otherwise the super shiny Merida seatpost will look a bit mismatched!
I've been contemplating treating the frame to some Simoniz wax next time I wash it properly.0
