The Scott CR1 SL Thread

jonny_trousers

Just a quick heads up to say I think I'm going to sell on the second CR1 SL frameset I recently bought. Head over to Road Parts for the details or drop me a PM.

Koncordski

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

Just a quick heads up to say I think I'm going to sell on the second CR1 SL frameset I recently bought. Head over to Road Parts for the details or drop me a PM.

Size?

dhope

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

Just a quick heads up to say I think I'm going to sell on the second CR1 SL frameset I recently bought. Head over to Road Parts for the details or drop me a PM.

Balls, if I wasn't skint I'd snap that up...
Do you accept IOUs or milk bottle tops?

Gazzaputt

Funny enough I bought a 2012 CR1 Team HMF from here a couple weeks back as I wanted 2 exacting setups (bike fit wise).

Even the HMF is an awesome frameset. Buit it with 105 5700 gruppo, Ultegra 6700 wheelset and Ritchey Pro finishing kit. Just as good as the CR1 SL pro to be honest. Pics will follow.

jonny_trousers

It's a medium 54. All the bull can be found over in road parts.

I'm in no hurry to sell it, and I won't even mind if it never goes. I'll just build it into that super commuter I was originally planning. Just rode my built up one in and it's fantastic on these crappy British roads.

daniel_b

Well hello all,

I have now been on my 2 day Velotech cycle maintenance course down in Calshot, and once I have some DIY out of the way, and can stop my diningroom being a sawmill, I can then convert it into a bike workshop.

I have a CR1 SL, and a CR1 Contessa to build, and also my Felt which I am attempting to TT-ify - that may or may not be successful.

Please indulge me, as I am sure to be coming on here with dumbass questions - one that springs to mind is how to route the cables down the ummm downtube, to cross or not to cross them?

Cheers

Dan

bobones

Daniel B wrote:

Please indulge me, as I am sure to be coming on here with dumbass questions - one that springs to mind is how to route the cables down the ummm downtube, to cross or not to cross them?

I'm definitely an advocate of crossing the gear cables mainly because it looks neater and you can make the loops wide enough that they don't touch the head tube so no need for frame protectors. I have not yet moved to having the brakes switched to front on left, but it seems like the logical thing to do after crossing the gear cables.

You might also want to insert an in-line cable adjuster in the FD cable between the bars and the down tube cable stop. You can get away without one, but it's easier make fine adjustments to cable tension with one. I have had good luck with Shimano SM-CA70 ones. The RD doesn't need one (because there's a barrel adjuster on the RD), but you could add one for reasons of symmetry or making adjustments on the move.

rolf_f

Daniel B wrote:

Well hello all,

I have now been on my 2 day Velotech cycle maintenance course down in Calshot, and once I have some DIY out of the way, and can stop my diningroom being a sawmill, I can then convert it into a bike workshop.

I have a CR1 SL, and a CR1 Contessa to build, and also my Felt which I am attempting to TT-ify - that may or may not be successful.

Please indulge me, as I am sure to be coming on here with dumbass questions - one that springs to mind is how to route the cables down the ummm downtube, to cross or not to cross them?

Cheers

Dan

Ooooh, crossy crossy crossy crossy!


BTW, if anyone is regretting missing out on last years CR1 extravaganza, they can cheer themselves up with Westbrooks latest Scott based silliness and get a 2012 Scott Foil with 10 speed Ultegra Di2 for £1200! You have to find the wheels yourself but that is a lot of high quality plastic for your money. Slightly more choice and more uptodatedness with an 11 speed version for £200 more.

http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... et-p237602

meanredspider

Di2

That's all - carry on...

itboffin

Rolf F wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Well hello all,

I have now been on my 2 day Velotech cycle maintenance course down in Calshot, and once I have some DIY out of the way, and can stop my diningroom being a sawmill, I can then convert it into a bike workshop.

I have a CR1 SL, and a CR1 Contessa to build, and also my Felt which I am attempting to TT-ify - that may or may not be successful.

Please indulge me, as I am sure to be coming on here with dumbass questions - one that springs to mind is how to route the cables down the ummm downtube, to cross or not to cross them?

Cheers

Dan

Ooooh, crossy crossy crossy crossy!


BTW, if anyone is regretting missing out on last years CR1 extravaganza, they can cheer themselves up with Westbrooks latest Scott based silliness and get a 2012 Scott Foil with 10 speed Ultegra Di2 for £1200! You have to find the wheels yourself but that is a lot of high quality plastic for your money. Slightly more choice and more uptodatedness with an 11 speed version for £200 more.

http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... et-p237602

rusty screw on the light mount and the brake cable exit is at an angle

shoddy very shoddy

meanredspider

Rolf F wrote:

BTW, if anyone is regretting missing out on last years CR1 extravaganza, they can cheer themselves up with Westbrooks latest Scott based silliness and get a 2012 Scott Foil with 10 speed Ultegra Di2 for £1200! You have to find the wheels yourself but that is a lot of high quality plastic for your money. Slightly more choice and more uptodatedness with an 11 speed version for £200 more.

http://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/scott- ... et-p237602

It's a Foil 15 HMF though - not to be mistaken with the HMX.

That said - given that a 10sp Di2 groupset will generally cost you more that £900, that still a pretty cheap frame.

markhewitt1978

Took off my winter wheels today and refitted my RS80 with GP4000S 23c. Found that even though I had removed my SKS Raceblade along mudguards the metal fixing point was rubbing on the top of the tyre so I had to remove the front brake assembly to get it out, argh! Bags of clearance on the rear.

markhewitt1978

BTW, I'm about to pull the trigger to buy some GP4000S in 25mm to replace my 23mm version which are wearing out, reassure me I'm making the right choice!

patrickf

markhewitt1978 wrote:

BTW, I'm about to pull the trigger to buy some GP4000S in 25mm to replace my 23mm version which are wearing out, reassure me I'm making the right choice!

I haven't tried Contis but the 23mm Vittoria tyres I've got on don't give me any confidence to go to 25mm without potential rubbing.

Would be good to know if they work when you get them though

meanredspider

My son's CR1 has 25C Vittorias on no problem. I've also had 25C Vittorias on my Foil as well as 25C GP4000Ss (on and off and on and off- due to all the punctures :roll: )

markhewitt1978

Argh, now I'm confused again and thinking of just ordering some 23mm since they've worked well for 1,500 miles.

jonny_trousers

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Argh, now I'm confused again and thinking of just ordering some 23mm since they've worked well for 1,500 miles.

I'm pretty sure there a few people on this thread who have put 25mm GP4000Ss on their CR1s. I've just bought some and have them waiting to be put on. I have every faith they'll fit.

markhewitt1978

I suppose I could buy one, put it on the back and see how it goes; then if it doesn't fit I could use it on the front.

More worried about the edge case of it appearing to fit, but then rubbing when I'm riding it and causing damage to the (irreplaceable) frame!

meanredspider

markhewitt1978 wrote:

I suppose I could buy one, put it on the back and see how it goes; then if it doesn't fit I could use it on the front.

More worried about the edge case of it appearing to fit, but then rubbing when I'm riding it and causing damage to the (irreplaceable) frame!

I'm certain they'll fit - why do you have doubts?

markhewitt1978

As the 23mm (they are actually 24mm really) are already a close fit.

meanredspider

How close? Only 1mm either side? As I say, my boy's CR1 is running Rubino Pros in 25C and my Foil has run 25C GP4000S. I'd be stunned if they didn't fit.

markhewitt1978

No I haven't actually measured it. Here's a pic I took a while back, apologies for the very poor quality!

keef66

I've successfully run 25mm GP4 seasons and 25mm Rubinos on my CR1-SL. Never actually measured the inflated tyres, but there's adequate clearance at both ends.

tincaman

I ran 25mm GP4000S all summer with no problems, its a tight fit but they dont rub, no room for mudguards though

samsbike

I ran 25cc Duranos on mine, and it was very close, a mm on either side at the rear.

No way to fit mudguards, so its been relegated to the loft and probably a for sale board in the near future.

luv2ride

I tried my winter wheels on the CR1 SL at the weekend (Ksyrium Equipe with Michelin Pro 4 Endurance in 25mm). My cheap plastic (!) vernier callipers measured the widest point of the tyre at 27mm, and there was a few mm clearance either side of the tyre between the chain stays...

I really wanted to go for the PX CT45 carbon clinchers, but reckon the wider rim may mean I won't be able to use my 25mm tyres :?

patrickf

Does the rim width make much of a difference? I have 23mm Archetypes on my SL. 23mm tyres leave a couple of mm either side for me.

frazered

Yes. I have the same wheels. Running 23mm grand prixs. Had 25mm gp4000s on and it was a little too close the rear for me. There was still clearance though only a few mm.

Gazzaputt

Running 24mm I had rubbing at the rear. This was due to cheap Ti skewers. Swapped for Shimanos and no problems but christ not lot of clearance at the chainstays.

duckson

Do you guys reckon Reynolds Assault SLG's will fit? They are 25mm wide....thinking with 23mm (ie 24) GP4000S's.
My DA9000 C24's with 25mm Vittoria Open Paves or when i have the GP Force 24mm on seem to have plenty of room.

This person/shop has them on the CR1, assume the geometry and width at the chainstays will be same no matter what CR1 it is? (i have a CR1 SL).