The Scott CR1 SL Thread

raymondliu

I saw earlier up the thread someone mentioned there was a gap between their top cap and split ring after a bikeshop assembled it. I built my own up and also find there is this gap if I just pop the top cap on the split ring. I also have noticeable lateral headset play. I narrowed the gap a bit more after I malleted down the stem as it sat on the spacers and top cap. Would this gap go away and with it the headset play if I mallet down the stem harder and also trim down the steerer tube a bit more?

bobones

raymondliu wrote:

I saw earlier up the thread someone mentioned there was a gap between their top cap and split ring after a bikeshop assembled it. I built my own up and also find there is this gap if I just pop the top cap on the split ring. I also have noticeable lateral headset play. I narrowed the gap a bit more after I malleted down the stem as it sat on the spacers and top cap. Would this gap go away and with it the headset play if I mallet down the stem harder and also trim down the steerer tube a bit more?

The top cap is the bit at the very top with the hole and the allen bolt. Do you mean the dust cover that sits on top of the split ring?

In any case, you shouldn't need to mallet down anything: the play should be taken up by tightening the top cap, but don't be tempted to give it a lot of torque or you'll round the allen bolt. If the play is not getting taken up, you should check that the bung is sitting flush on the top of the steerer tube and tighten it quite a bit so it won't move when you tighten the top cap. You need 3-4mm of a gap between the top edge of the stem (or top spacer) and the top edge of the steerer tube/bug so that tightening the top cap will actually compress the head set. If it's not working then your steering tube may be a little too long. If this is the case, you can cut the tube a little more or temporarily add a 5mm spacer under the top cap while you're taking out the play. Once the stem bolts are tightened up, you can loosen the top cap, remove the spacer and replace the top cap again as it's the stem bolts which actually hold the headset in place.

raymondliu

Thanks bobones will try and file down a couple more mm from the steerer

patrickf

File down? Is this a good idea with a carbon steerer?

I did have to cut mine twice too as I felt the first time I didn't have enough of a gap to take out the play. I've never had the headset loosen or have play once I started riding the bike though.

itboffin

it such a lovely day today i considered taking the ultra clean Scott out but wisely choose not to and took old faithful Ribble sportive instead, its like the Somme around here at the moment.

It took longer to clean the bike than the actual ride.

luv2ride

itboffin wrote:

it such a lovely day today i considered taking the ultra clean Scott out but wisely choose not to and took old faithful Ribble sportive instead, its like the Somme around here at the moment.

It took longer to clean the bike than the actual ride.

Same here. Been using the CR1 on the turbo and got the transmission running sweet, had also serviced the hubs on my Pro-Lites so would have been great to actually get out on it. Anyway, the trusty Tifosi was treated to the very damp ride today (the Sportful Fiandre No rain jacket was ace though on its first "proper" outing - kept me warm and dry as a bone...)

markhewitt1978

My CR1 hasn't been clean since about October. Doesn't matter how much I clean it after a ride, when I go to get it again for the next ride it's filthy!

mrbrightside

We'll finally taken my frame out of the box, and ordered Ultegra 6800 groupset....

keef66

patrickf wrote:

File down? Is this a good idea with a carbon steerer?

I did have to cut mine twice too as I felt the first time I didn't have enough of a gap to take out the play. I've never had the headset loosen or have play once I started riding the bike though.

Me too; first time I assembled it some play developed in the headset. Had to trim a bit more steerer off to leave a bigger gap than I'm used to.

No filing please!

daniel_b

Would this be of any use for this frame?

There's no cable guide is there?

patrickf

Daniel B wrote:

Would this be of any use for this frame?

There's no cable guide is there?

Mine came with a cable guide.

daniel_b

patrickf wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Would this be of any use for this frame?

There's no cable guide is there?

Mine came with a cable guide.

Hi Patrick, i'll check my frame today.

Was yours already fitted on the frame, or was it loose for you to fit?

patrickf

Daniel B wrote:

patrickf wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Would this be of any use for this frame?

There's no cable guide is there?

Mine came with a cable guide.

Hi Patrick, i'll check my frame today.

Was yours already fitted on the frame, or was it loose for you to fit?

It was fitted. If I'm not mistaken the guide is glued onto the frame.

pollys_bott

That's your cable guide Daniel - mine was stuck on but not very securely, yours must have fallen off.

d10brp

Has anyone fit a speed and cadence sensor to their CR1? I'm trying to fit a Wahoo Blue SC and I just can't get it set up right due to the thickness of the chain stays.

jonny_trousers

I'm using my CR1 all the time right now. I know it's too nice a bike to use on the commute in this crappy weather, but riding it puts a huge smile on my face and I find the Fratello sluggish and uncomfortable in comparison.

rolf_f

d10brp wrote:

Has anyone fit a speed and cadence sensor to their CR1? I'm trying to fit a Wahoo Blue SC and I just can't get it set up right due to the thickness of the chain stays.

A friend of mine has - she sets it so that the arm points upwards. Strictly speaking, it would be safer in this respect to mount it under the chainstay but as long as you aren't hopelessly clumsy it should be OK if not so attractive!

Another possibility which might or might not work is to mount it further along the chainstay and use a neodymium magnet on the pedal axle of the crank. They have a fair range so you might just be able to still pick up the cadence magnet whilst having the unit a fair way from the BB. That will be my first attempted solution!

d10brp

Rolf F wrote:

d10brp wrote:

Has anyone fit a speed and cadence sensor to their CR1? I'm trying to fit a Wahoo Blue SC and I just can't get it set up right due to the thickness of the chain stays.

A friend of mine has - she sets it so that the arm points upwards. Strictly speaking, it would be safer in this respect to mount it under the chainstay but as long as you aren't hopelessly clumsy it should be OK if not so attractive!

Another possibility which might or might not work is to mount it further along the chainstay and use a neodymium magnet on the pedal axle of the crank. They have a fair range so you might just be able to still pick up the cadence magnet whilst having the unit a fair way from the BB. That will be my first attempted solution!

About ten seconds after I posted I found a picture of a bike where the arm had been fitted pointing upwards and I immediately slapped forehead. All working great now, just hope we get a clear day soon.

patrickf

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

I'm using my CR1 all the time right now. I know it's too nice a bike to use on the commute in this crappy weather, but riding it puts a huge smile on my face and I find the Fratello sluggish and uncomfortable in comparison.

I managed to fit mine the "normal" way (i.e. with the arm pointing down). I made sure the arm was as close to the stay as possible.

With this I've had to reverse the speed magnet (instructions suggest this if needed) to increase the clearance between spoke and pick-up.

I also use a neodymium magnet for cadence readings.

Close tolerances but I've had no problems and I prefer it this way as I really don't want the possibility of the pickup arm being pushed into the spokes.

Can post a pic if that helps?

markhewitt1978

If you could post a pic that would help as I'm currently wondering the same thing with the Wahoo SC sensor. Did anyone use the cadence magnet in the box, as you have to take your pedal off to fit it?

d10brp

markhewitt1978 wrote:

If you could post a pic that would help as I'm currently wondering the same thing with the Wahoo SC sensor. Did anyone use the cadence magnet in the box, as you have to take your pedal off to fit it?

I've fitted the sensor with the arm in the up position. Used the standard cadence sensor (took pedal off to fit) and did a test ride yesterday, seems to work fine. Wahoo's beta android app isn't brilliant, using ipbike instead. Away at the moment but will post a picture later on this week.

patrickf

markhewitt1978 wrote:

If you could post a pic that would help as I'm currently wondering the same thing with the Wahoo SC sensor. Did anyone use the cadence magnet in the box, as you have to take your pedal off to fit it?

Hopefully these are clear enough. If not, I'll get some more at the weekend.

markhewitt1978

Thanks but I meant specifically the Wahoo SC sensor

jonny_trousers

Sad news from Westbrook: Scott don't have much stock left over from 2013 so it's highly unlikely there will be great deals on framesets this year. That settles that, then.

markhewitt1978

Good news!

patrickf

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Thanks but I meant specifically the Wahoo SC sensor

Can't help you with that, sorry.

rolf_f

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Thanks but I meant specifically the Wahoo SC sensor

It's not exactly likely that the difference between the Wahoo and Garmin is going to be such that the Garmin fits and the Wahoo doesn't. You should probably just get the sensor!

markhewitt1978

I have it . It's just a bugger to fit.

rolf_f

markhewitt1978 wrote:

I have it . It's just a bugger to fit.

Horrible squarey stays! You'll have to be the pioneer for this one!

markhewitt1978

I got it on eventually and used it with my turbo, but no way would I be trusting that to be fixed in place on the road.