The Scott CR1 SL Thread

fat_tail

Anyone know what headset works for the Scott CR1 ?

bobones

fat_tail wrote:

Anyone know what headset works for the Scott CR1 ?

The CR1 Pro came with a Ritchey Zero Logic PF . The CR1 SL came with a Ritchey WCS Zero Logic PF. These are semi integrated headsets for non-tapered steering tubes.

indyp

Fitted a longer stem, went out yesterday and it's an even better ride than it was, if that's possible. Loving the bike

alans220

Bike is now complete, well at least for the time being,

Time to ride



al

markhewitt1978

Very nice . Mine looks similar to yours wit the black bar tape etc but a white saddle. Keep thinking I should change it but it's not that big a deal and I find it quite comfortable.

J273

For those of you who have the CR1 sl/pro - What size should i be looking to get 54 or 56 @ 5.11 with 32" leg?

Many thanks

alans220

J273, see above picture.

I am also 5.11 with 32 leg, mine is 54, thinking I maybe would have been better with a 52!!

172.5 cranks and 110 stem.

al

J273

Thanks Al

I was thinking i was going to need a 56

daniel_b

alans220 wrote:

Bike is now complete, well at least for the time being,

Time to ride



al

Looking very nice Al!

Headhuunter

alans220 wrote:

Bike is now complete, well at least for the time being,

Time to ride



al

What's the weight, spec?

jonny_trousers

J273 wrote:

Thanks Al

I was thinking i was going to need a 56

Al's reply just goes to show how personal it all is. Popular internet wisdom will probably tell you a 56, but that is incredibly general. Also, the position on the bike you want to achieve has a bearing. a 54 frame with a 120mm stem will have a very similar reach to a 56 with a 90/100mm stem, but you will have a greater angle between saddle height and bar height (not to mention that the head tube is a fair bit taller on the 56).

I'm 5'10 and have a 54 with a 90mm stem, but I suspect most people of 5'10 would prefer a longer stem.

alans220

Headhuunter wrote:

alans220 wrote:

Bike is now complete, well at least for the time being,

Time to ride



al

What's the weight, spec?

Scott CR1 pro 54cm
Full 105 groupset
Ksyrium Elite wheels/tyres
Easton EA70 seatpost/stem/bars
Selle Italia C2 flow saddle
Zipp Service Course CX bar tape
Shimano XT M780 pedals

7.8kg/17.5lbs

Al

bobones

J273 wrote:

For those of you who have the CR1 sl/pro - What size should i be looking to get 54 or 56 @ 5.11 with 32" leg?

Many thanks

I'm 5'11 34" leg and went for a 54 and 90mm stem.

boblo

6', 31" inside leg. Ride a 56.....

SimonInd

5'10 31" inside leg ride a 56, pictures earlier in the thread

luv2ride

5'9" (just!) and 31" inseam here and ride a 54" CR1 SL, with a 110mm stem and a layback seatpost, and only using the single conical spacer under the stem. I find it comfy as hell, so goes to show bike sizing is clearly a very personal thing. Reading some of the replies here might have swayed me to go for a 52, but I reckon that would have been too small...

samsbike

5.11.5 and have a 35in inside leg, and ride a 56. Actually wish I had got a 58!

sam

Ps in terms of mudguards I have a raceblade longs but then I run 25c tires.

patrickf

Vittoria Open Corsa CX tyres must measure wide then. I'm seriously glad I opted for 23mm ones as there's bugger all clearance either side of the tyre without risking tyre rub.

meanredspider

6' and 33" and went for 56 in the Scott Foil with a 90mm stem. The seatpost on the Foil is set back

chrisw1976

frazered wrote:

looks great, I like the green accents.

I have just gotten round to building my CR1, her she is with new ultegra 6800 11 speed and Zipp bars, stem and tape, Easton carbon seatpost and fizik Antares saddle.



issue with conti gp4000s 25mm on the back with the archetype 23mm rims. Very little clearance so I have swapped to 23mm grand prix black chilli that the LBS had in stock. still got 25mm on the front for now

OCD note: bike fit next week, so steerer and spacers will be significantly reduced!

Great build, was the LBS you mentioned situated very close to a certain rugby league ground by any chance? If so I took a look at your bike when it was being put together in the workshop (Rick was trying to push me from Ultegra 6700 to the new 6800 groupset at the time).

Do you mind me asking if you had the choice of colours with your groupset? The same LBS will be building mine and as 6700 is now out of stock, I'm looking towards 6800 but have only been offered it in silver, whereas I'd prefer the black or charcoal finish like yours.

superjoeya

Hi

This is my first forum post so I apologise in advance if I have not used the proper etiquette.

There is probably a dedicated forum for my issue but thought I would approach other CR1 owners first.

I took delivery of a CR1-SL a couple of months ago, got it built up with all new kit and been riding happily for weeks, apart from one detail. A couple of rides in, it started producing an irritating clicking noise that worsenes with effort. Like most people I immediately assume it is the BB (push fit option already installed on the frame). It only happens when pedaling, I've checked the pedals and chain ring bolts and both appear fine. Just wondered if anyone else has experienced a similar issue/fixes or has any suggestions for investigation.
Cheers

markhewitt1978

One of the chain links?

superjoeya

it's a bit irregular for a chain link i reckon, it is definately worse when right foor is at about 1-2 o'clock position, but not guaranteed to be on every revolution and may click multiple times per revolution depending on effort. If it was a chain link it would tend to be regular click regardless of position?

patrickf

Check that the chain goes through the rear derailleur properly and that it's indexed correctly.

Also just check the alignment and that the chain sits on the lower jockey wheel properly when this happens.

Quite possible that cables have stretched a little and the derailleur needs a slight adjustment.

bobones

Could be any number of things: seatpost, skewers, crank splines, BB. If it doesn't click out of the saddle then seatpost is likely, but press fit BBs are prone to making noises so that is the favourite. Strip and refit with loctite seems to be the prescribed cure. Also worth cleaning and regreasing the crank splines and contact points with BB.

itboffin

Back out on the road again this morning, loving it but I really should have changed tyres it might well have been 23C here this afternoon but the roads are covered in winter crap and Vittoria corsa are not suitable, still no punctures just a bit less confidence on some of the lanes.

TheBigBean

Do any of you CR1 owners worry about wear on the dropouts as discussed here

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12938629&start=40#p18571563

jonny_trousers

TheBigBean wrote:

Do any of you CR1 owners worry about wear on the dropouts as discussed here

viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12938629&start=40#p18571563

I didn't until now.

There are lots of bikes with carbon dropouts out there. If be very surprised if this was a common issue. So far I've had no problems whatsoever with the wheel not sitting snugly and safely. No sign of damage, either.

luv2ride

After reading about the possible carbon dropouts issue, I checked mine as the rear wheel places the tyre closer to the drive-side on my SL frame than the non-drive side. I'm running Continental 24mm Grand Prix, and can't see I'd get a 25mm tyre in as the clearances seem very tight. Anyone else suffering similar alignment issues with their CR1? I'm struggling to see if its the wheel or the frame TBH, and not quite sure how best to check...but there is definite play between the axle and the dropout before the QR is tightened.

patrickf

Luv2ride wrote:

After reading about the possible carbon dropouts issue, I checked mine as the rear wheel places the tyre closer to the drive-side on my SL frame than the non-drive side. I'm running Continental 24mm Grand Prix, and can't see I'd get a 25mm tyre in as the clearances seem very tight. Anyone else suffering similar alignment issues with their CR1? I'm struggling to see if its the wheel or the frame TBH, and not quite sure how best to check...but there is definite play between the axle and the dropout before the QR is tightened.

It's likely that your wheel is out of dish (I.e. The rim isn't centered properly).

You can easily check this by marking (or remembering) where the rim lines up and then turn the wheel around. If the rim now aligns on the other side then it's the wheel.

Last time I looked, I had noticeable depressions in the dropout as I would expect and are pretty consistent with my alu frame.