The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    You just need to be prepared to replace a few bits. To be honest, the best thing you can invest in are some full length mudguards!

    Yep, which ones you recommend for the CR1?

    The ones that come with a free Ribble winter trainer?
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    DSC02207_zps6a108603.jpg

    DSC02202_zps287b3f04.jpg

    Ultegra 6700 shifters, front mech & 12-25 cassette,
    Ultegra 6600 chainset, brakes & rear mech.

    DT Swiss R1500s & QR skewers
    Vittoria Open Corsa CX 23mm
    Michelin latex tubes

    FSA K-Force light carbon bars
    FSA SL-K 90mm stem
    FSA SL-K carbon seat post
    ProLogo Nago Evo Plus saddle

    Tacx cages
    Shimano R540 pedals

    7.5kgs, and I'm sure that when I say that I'm comparing the ride to that of a decade old alloy bike you'll have some idea of how good it feels to me... :D

    Daniel B - that red on the bars isn't too offensive is it? :wink:
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    is it too soon to start upgrading?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    patrickf wrote:
    You just need to be prepared to replace a few bits. To be honest, the best thing you can invest in are some full length mudguards!

    Yep, which ones you recommend for the CR1?
    Oh yeah the CR1. Your only real options are SKS Raceblade Long or Crudracers since the frame doesn't have eyelets.

    I run Raceblades on my commuter and they're fine though not long enough behind the seat tube to catch all of the mud.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    itboffin wrote:
    is it too soon to start upgrading?

    Git. Mine won't be built before winter due to absence of funds.
    Anyone need a kidney?
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • samsbike
    samsbike Posts: 942
    in terms of winterizing, I guess if you go down to 23s on the tires you may just squeeze in some cruds.

    I think I may keep my genesis till next summer and then decide what to do. I am so used to it and its relatively comfortable I am not sure what to do.
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    My CR1 is definitely going to be confined to summer/decent weather riding where mudguards are not required (or I may fit my Raceblades for the odd winter ride).

    Commutes are definitely being kept to the commuter bike unless its nice and sunny.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Headhuunter wrote:
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    Headhuunter wrote:
    Careful with the RS80s, I have ridden mine through a few winters and water and salt has got into the bearings and now the cones are pitted. Make sure you regrease them heavily before winter to protect them...

    Interesting. Which kind of reinforces my idea of running my old wheels in winter.

    Yes, components get hit hard in the winter... It's not so much the rain/water it's the salt and grime on the roads. Salt corrodes and the grit and gime gets flicked onto the chain, mechs, brakes etc....

    Missed this post but the nipples seized on mine - seems like they aren't the most winter-friendly wheels out-of-the-box
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • samsbike
    samsbike Posts: 942
    I think I have bought the wrong size. My seat height was adjusted and now have a 8cm drop to my bars. Sigh I should really consider a roubaix.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    meanredspider wrote:
    Missed this post but the nipples seized on mine - seems like they aren't the most winter-friendly wheels out-of-the-box

    Good idea for me to keep them in the shed and off the bike during the winter then :)
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    against doctors orders I just rode a few miles, damn this is a good bike, I'm really torn between this and my ribble sportive as to which i prefer, the ribble is lighter (just) and feels more racy the scott just feels like its on rails, which is very confidence inspiring especially flying down mountains 8)

    Happy days
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Surprises me that the Ribble is lighter than the Scott. That must be the stuff hanging off it rather than the frame?

    Simply take all the light bits off the Ribble, but them on the Scott and then sell the Ribble.......
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    Asprilla wrote:
    Surprises me that the Ribble is lighter than the Scott. That must be the stuff hanging off it rather than the frame?

    Simply take all the light bits off the Ribble, but them on the Scott and then sell the Ribble.......

    If you remember one of my earlier threads I got the ribble down to 16lbs at one point, since then i've taken parts off for the Cervelo which is currently 14.1lbs

    The ribble has a Ti bottom bracket and very light handbuilt wheels, the scott has Alu 3T finishing kit and heavy RS10 wheels.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,064
    oh deary me i'm seriously beginning to think the scott is my best of the rest bike, it rides and fits me so well.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Did a ride down a gravel railway path today Scott CR1 Pro with RS80s and GP4000S 23c. Was fantastic with plenty of grip and rode well at speeds over 25mph which is the fastest I've ever been over a gravel surface.
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Just a little cleaning tip for these frames: dark, oily or dirty marks that won't shift easily with baby wipes etc. will miraculously vanish with a gentle brush from a damp melamine foam sponge (i.e. magic eraser cleaning sponge from supermarket). Give it a try!
  • Gazzaputt
    Gazzaputt Posts: 3,227
    duckson wrote:
    Help required please!
    I have some creaking from what seems like the BB area on my CR1 SL (same creak noise when going up steeper hills on each pedals downstroke).
    It has whatever Shimano press fit BB Westbrook fitted when new, i would like to change it to a better item like a Dura Ace 9000 (i have the DA9000 groupset and C24 wheels) but cant see them anywhere online.

    Can someone point me to either a DA9000 or a better than whats supplied BB?

    I think I have the same creak but I have Rotor bb in mine. Out of the saddle put some force through the cranks.

    I really thought it was coming from the headset area but now I'm unsure.

    Everything has been stripped, cleaned and greased and still it's there. :cry:
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    I've been falling in love with mine all over again recently too. Because of the good weather, I've been taking it on the commute and when I compare it to my Equilibrium (a bike I still love), it's just ridiculous. The acceleration is incredible, cruising speed is effortlessly high and it's so damn comfy.

    Anyone fancy the Paris-Roubaix sportive next year? :D

    As for using it in the winter, I certainly intend to. I didn't go ape on wheels or groupset and it was still a sub £500 frame set. I'll look after it, but it would be a terrible shame to lock it away all winter.
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    I had a creaking I thought was the BB, but since I changed wheels + cassette the noise has gone!
  • Koncordski
    Koncordski Posts: 1,009
    I'm getting seriously fed up with the headset it was supplied with (ritchey) becuase it won't stop developing play. Have checked and re-assembled twice now. Definitely assembled correctly. You pre-load the bearings and there's zero play if you rock it on the front brake and it turns smoothly. Torque up the stem bolts and off you go, 25 miles later and there is a small amount of play again, you can feel it when you brake and it's not confidence inspiring. There seems to be a really poor mating surface between the cone shaped Scott initial spacer and the ritchey dust cover. The diameter of the dust cover flat surface (top) is smaller than the first scott spacer so the spacer effectively hangs over the edge of the dust cap rather than seating. With a bit of normal riding this is enough to induce a bit of play and allow the steerer tube to start rocking in the headset.

    Really frustrating as you can eliminate it by unloading and then re-loading the top bolt (after slacking the stem bolts obv) but it will keep coming back. Not sure if junking the cone spacer and just using the straight ones will solve it or chnage out the headset for a better quality one (hope or chris king)? Anyone else had this issue?
    #1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
    #2 Boeris Italia race steel
    #3 Scott CR1 SL
    #4 Trek 1.1 commuter
    #5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    I haven't noticed any issues but I had my bike into the LBS this weekend to fix my gears and he started tightening it up because he said there was a little play in it.
  • Headhuunter
    Headhuunter Posts: 6,494
    Koncordski wrote:
    I'm getting seriously fed up with the headset it was supplied with (ritchey) becuase it won't stop developing play. Have checked and re-assembled twice now. Definitely assembled correctly. You pre-load the bearings and there's zero play if you rock it on the front brake and it turns smoothly. Torque up the stem bolts and off you go, 25 miles later and there is a small amount of play again, you can feel it when you brake and it's not confidence inspiring. There seems to be a really poor mating surface between the cone shaped Scott initial spacer and the ritchey dust cover. The diameter of the dust cover flat surface (top) is smaller than the first scott spacer so the spacer effectively hangs over the edge of the dust cap rather than seating. With a bit of normal riding this is enough to induce a bit of play and allow the steerer tube to start rocking in the headset.

    Really frustrating as you can eliminate it by unloading and then re-loading the top bolt (after slacking the stem bolts obv) but it will keep coming back. Not sure if junking the cone spacer and just using the straight ones will solve it or chnage out the headset for a better quality one (hope or chris king)? Anyone else had this issue?

    Actually I noticed that mine came loose on the 1 ride I did on it... I assumed I just hadn't tightened it properly....
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • Koncordski
    Koncordski Posts: 1,009
    ITB, you've ridden the crap out of yours, did you find anything similar?
    #1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
    #2 Boeris Italia race steel
    #3 Scott CR1 SL
    #4 Trek 1.1 commuter
    #5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    No problems with mine, but mine was assembled by LBS, so perhaps they tweaked.
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Koncordski wrote:
    Really frustrating as you can eliminate it by unloading and then re-loading the top bolt (after slacking the stem bolts obv) but it will keep coming back. Not sure if junking the cone spacer and just using the straight ones will solve it or chnage out the headset for a better quality one (hope or chris king)? Anyone else had this issue?

    I've noticed this on Charlie's bike. I was wondering if I've left the steerer just a smidge too long...? Was going to take a proper look this weekend.
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • Koncordski
    Koncordski Posts: 1,009
    Hmm, seems to be a familiar theme here...

    Anyway, this is what i think the problem is: headset_zpsb5a70777.jpg

    That splayed first spacer simply doesn't sit flat on anything. When you pre-load it's not moving about so feels tightened up. As soon as you ride it wants to fall off the edge of the dustcap. I'm going to remove it and use straight spacers only. If that fails i'm getting a Chris King Inset1 Zero.
    #1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
    #2 Boeris Italia race steel
    #3 Scott CR1 SL
    #4 Trek 1.1 commuter
    #5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)
  • Gazzaputt
    Gazzaputt Posts: 3,227
    Koncordski wrote:
    Hmm, seems to be a familiar theme here...

    Anyway, this is what i think the problem is:

    That splayed first spacer simply doesn't sit flat on anything. When you pre-load it's not moving about so feels tightened up. As soon as you ride it wants to fall off the edge of the dustcap. I'm going to remove it and use straight spacers only. If that fails i'm getting a Chris King Inset1 Zero.

    Mine did this until I cut the steerer so it sat 2.5mm inside the stem and used a 2.5mm spacer on top. Now no play but......

    Going down the same route as you in regards to the headset as I have now found the noise is coming from the steerer and it seems the top of the headset is allowing the steerer to move ever so slightly under load.
  • Koncordski
    Koncordski Posts: 1,009
    Just had a fettle at lunchtime (illicit thrill?) and it's not as clear cut. The picture above looks bad but the splayed base actually goes flat back to the steerer tube. It's like a straight spacer that just gets fatter at the bottom so it does sit flush on the dustcap, albeit looking rubbish.

    Pulled the stem off and noticed that the expanding plug could afford to sit a little further down the tube. Now i'm pretty sure it was fully seated when torqued up last time but here it was clearly up by a couple of mm. Put a small block of wood on it (whilst the top part of the bung was unscrewed slightly) put my weight down on it and it felt it notch down the steerer tube a bit more. Tightened the top half of the bung up and it's now sitting lower/flush in the top of the steerer tube. Re-assembled and there's now a couple more mm between the top of the steerer and the top of the spacer above the stem. Torqued up the top cap bolt and eliminated the play again. Shall ride it a bit later and see if that fixes it or it happens again. It may be something as simple as not having enough clearance between the top cap and the top of the steerer tube?!
    #1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
    #2 Boeris Italia race steel
    #3 Scott CR1 SL
    #4 Trek 1.1 commuter
    #5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Koncordski wrote:
    It may be something as simple as not having enough clearance between the top cap and the top of the steerer tube?!

    As per my post above, that's what I'm wondering. I don't know if it's acceptable to use carbon assembly paste on the plug but I may well just take another couple of mm off the steerer
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    No problems with my headset. The guy at Condor who did the build mentioned he had some problems assembling it. I think he may even have substituted a part from their parts bin.

    A couple more small points which may be of use to someone:

    I bought a spare mech hanger and found that Pedal On were the cheapest at £12.99, although they are out of stock now.

    http://www.pedalon.co.uk/acatalog/scott ... anger.html

    Someone in an earlier post mentioned the possibility that the front mech cable might cut into the frame where it goes through the hole behind the bottom bracket shell. I noticed when cleaning my bike that Condor have fitted a 'sheath' (for want of a better word!) over the bare cable where it passes through the hole.

    Still loving the bike. Have to pinch myself every time I ride it that I own such a fantastic bit of kit. The handling is superb.

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