The Scott CR1 SL Thread

markhewitt1978

Ribble as the 50mm variant for £540 (£300 for the 24mm version)

meanredspider

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Ribble as the 50mm variant for £540 (£300 for the 24mm version)

Having never ridden with deep rims before, I've no idea if I really want/need them. Certainly 90% of my riding will be on the flat at higher speeds

itboffin

If its windy avoid the deep section rims, so all of the Netherlands or Windshire

meanredspider

itboffin wrote:

If its windy avoid the deep section rims, so all of the Netherlands or Windshire

Yup - that was my concern too. It's not like there's much shelter either or direction changes :shock:

Think I'll stick with the shallow rims until, at least, I've sussed the lie of the land. As I say, there will always be a home for them on Charlie's CR1

rolf_f

The direction changes will be 90 degrees a lot of the time so put a pair of shallow rims on for the crosswind section and carry a set of deep rims for when you change direction!

Or believe everything that Zipp says and buy a pair of 808s and marvel at how well they perform in all wind directions!

alans220

Parkers have the 50mm RS80 for 314.99

Headhuunter

alans220 wrote:

Parkers have the 50mm RS80 for 314.99

Yeah but for 1 wheel, Ribble has 2 wheels for £500ish

alans220

Oooops sorry, must read the ads more carefully!...

markhewitt1978

Just fitted the RS80 C24 to my pro frame. Pretty easy to do.

That and the Ultegra casette has reduced the weight of the bike from 9.2kg to 8.2kg so pretty pleased with that.

Haven't had chance to do more than ride to the end of the road and back to test brake alignment etc.

Headhuunter

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Just fitted the RS80 C24 to my pro frame. Pretty easy to do.

That and the Ultegra casette has reduced the weight of the bike from 9.2kg to 8.2kg so pretty pleased with that.

Haven't had chance to do more than ride to the end of the road and back to test brake alignment etc.

Wow you must've had some pretty chunky wheels on the thing before!

daniel_b

Hello all, the time to start putting my bike together is getting closer - just waiting for the wheels, though potentially I could make a start beforehand on the rest of course, and may well do.

Tools I have bought specifically: (I also have a pretty decent Lifeline toolkit)
Headset press off of ebay, basic one that could have been made from the hardware store
X-Tools steerer cutter thingamy - almost certainly not required, but this is the part I am most nervous about.

I have also bought a length of pipe to hopefully fit the crown(race?) onto the top of the fork.
And I have a suitable rubber mallet.

List of bits to put together:
CR1 SL frame and forks
Shimano 105 5700 groupset in black (Bottom bracket and cabling will be redundant)
Shimano pedals
FSA SLK Carbon seatpost
Fizik Arione CX Saddle
FSA SLK Carbon stem
Generic Chinese carbon wing style handlebar
Jagwire 'Racer' brake and gear kit
Campagnolo Zonda wheels (Delivery expected end of this month)
Cinelli bar tape
Vittoria open corsa Evo KS tyres
Continental tubes

I have made a note of various build suggestions on here, and will continue to do so, but just wanted to check with the more experienced bike builders, that I am at least somewhere along the right lines.
Just to let you know my ability - I have a decent toolkit, and have managed to change wheel bearings, cranksets, bottom brackets, as well as cassettes on rear wheels and chains - I'm not the quickest, but I can generally get there if I take my time, and consult youtube!

So my plan roughly is:

Fit an alloy seatpost to allow me to clamp the bike in my workstand
Fit the crownrace onto the fork
Use the headset press to fit the headset, one at a time.
Fit the cassette to the wheel
Fit tubes and tyres, and put these into the frame
'Fit' the fork, but not the star/expander nut, as temporarily I just plan to use the stem to hold it in place (Bad idea?)
Fit stem and bars
Decide on correct steerer length, and go for a practice cut further up, before trying the actual cut - I'll be going for the maximum height (Within the suggested limits) I can I think, can always move it down/pop spacers on top later should I wish to. Planning to use a fine hacksaw blade to make the cut, if the first one goes badly, will take it to the LBS.
Fit forks properly with expander nut (Is this re-usable, ie if I choose to change/reduce the length of the steerer, can I remove the expanding nut, make the cut, and put it back in at a lower level?)
Fit crankset and pedals, front derailleur, and rear derailleur, as well as shifters on the bars, and the brakes.
Try and route cables for brakes and gears
Sort out indexing so it shifts perfectly (hahahaha)
Fit bar tape
Fit FSA seatpost and Fizik saddle.

Anything I have missed or have in the wrong order there?
I think the things that make me the most nervous are cutting the steerer tube, trying to route the cabling, fitting the headset and sorting out the indexing, all key bits of course!

Questions that spring to mind, that I have been googling is how to route the cables for the gears - looks like crossing them seems to be the wy to go according to Sheldon Brown - I don't recall seeing any kind of plastic routing block under the bottom bracket on the frame, so how would that work?

I've also seen conflicting reports on whether I should basically grease everything I fit or not - I have carbon paste for the carbon on carbon bits (Stem onto steerer, and handlebar, seatpost into frame), but assume a bit of generic grease around the headset (When it is fitted), and cranks would not go amiss either?

Happy to start a new thread if this is polluting this one!

markhewitt1978

Headhuunter wrote:

Wow you must've had some pretty chunky wheels on the thing before!

Well 140g of the 1kg saving came from different pedals since the last time I weighed it. Some of the saving will be from changing from a Tiagra to Ultegra cassette, the rest being from the wheels.

Strange however that the bike doesn't really feel any lighter to lift up!

Headhuunter

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Headhuunter wrote:

Wow you must've had some pretty chunky wheels on the thing before!

Well 140g of the 1kg saving came from different pedals since the last time I weighed it. Some of the saving will be from changing from a Tiagra to Ultegra cassette, the rest being from the wheels.

Strange however that the bike doesn't really feel any lighter to lift up!

Well I suppose 1kg isn't that much when you simply lift it in your hand and put it down again, it becomes more of a burden though on a long ride when you're at your limit....

meanredspider

Headhuunter wrote:

markhewitt1978 wrote:

Headhuunter wrote:

Wow you must've had some pretty chunky wheels on the thing before!

Well 140g of the 1kg saving came from different pedals since the last time I weighed it. Some of the saving will be from changing from a Tiagra to Ultegra cassette, the rest being from the wheels.

Strange however that the bike doesn't really feel any lighter to lift up!

Well I suppose 1kg isn't that much when you simply lift it in your hand and put it down again, it becomes more of a burden though on a long ride when you're at your limit....

Especially if most of it is in the wheels

samsbike

Daniel B,

My only suggestion is to leave the steerer till the very last and definately after a few rides.

If you want the maximum height its 40mm above the headset, then the stem, about 40mm again and then be able to fit a 5mm spacer.

This bit I went to a lbs, they have the tools and if its get cocked up its their liability. Also its relatively cheap at £15 but very expensive and easy to get wrong.

Also how is this for irony - the Scott factory build doesn't seem to have a 5mm spacer between the topcap and stem

http://www.bikeradar.com/gallery/articl ... w-24596/10

make me chuckle

Gazzaputt

Daniel B wrote:

Decide on correct steerer length, and go for a practice cut further up, before trying the actual cut - I'll be going for the maximum height (Within the suggested limits) I can I think, can always move it down/pop spacers on top later should I wish to. Planning to use a fine hacksaw blade to make the cut, if the first one goes badly, will take it to the LBS.

I'd invest in a carbon cutting blade you'll get a better cut.

asprilla

Gazzaputt wrote:

Daniel B wrote:

Decide on correct steerer length, and go for a practice cut further up, before trying the actual cut - I'll be going for the maximum height (Within the suggested limits) I can I think, can always move it down/pop spacers on top later should I wish to. Planning to use a fine hacksaw blade to make the cut, if the first one goes badly, will take it to the LBS.

I'd invest in a carbon cutting blade you'll get a better cut.

This. I just bought one of these for cutting a fork.

http://www.carbonmods.co.uk/Products/Pe ... __TC2.aspx

Cheap as chips.

daniel_b

Thanks gents for all of those replies, and the link to the carbon cutting blade - really useful, and as you say cheap as chips, not going to skimp on that, especially when I also have a Contessa CR1 to put together in the near future as well!

Saw and blade now ordered!

bobones

Sounds a decent plan. I'm not a mechanic, but replies from my experiences are in blue inline:

Daniel B wrote:

So my plan roughly is:

...

Fit the crownrace onto the fork
Use the headset press to fit the headset, one at a time.
I just asked Westbrooks to do these 2 before shipping so no need to buy tools

'Fit' the fork, but not the star/expander nut, as temporarily I just plan to use the stem to hold it in place (Bad idea?)
Not a terrible idea

Fit stem and bars

Decide on correct steerer length, and go for a practice cut further up, before trying the actual cut - I'll be going for the maximum height (Within the suggested limits) I can I think, can always move it down/pop spacers on top later should I wish to. Planning to use a fine hacksaw blade to make the cut, if the first one goes badly, will take it to the LBS.
The maximum is 40mm below and 5mm above so theoretically you can't just pop spacers from below on top, therefore no point in making first non-practice cut any higher than what's recommended by Scott. Note that a 5mm spacer above the stem is not mandatory, but you must have at least 5mm of spacers between the headset dust cover and the stem

It's not that big a deal to cut the fork: just use a guide of some sort for a square cut, put electrical tape below the cut line to prevent splintering, use a new hacksaw/carbon blade and file the cut edges.

Set up the headset with the dust cover, lower spacers and stem as you want them. Make sure everything is seated correctly (you might want to bounce the front wheel gently against the ground to do this) and mark the tube at the top of the stem. This is the perfect place to cut if you're adding a 5mm spacer on top as the top of the expander bolt will sit proud of the stem by a 1mm or so when it is fitted which is enough to centre the spacer. (The ideal cut line should be 4mm below the top of the stem or upper spacer for the top cap to set the preload correctly. I prefer to have a spacer on top as the top stem bolt will clamp more evenly)

Fit forks properly with expander nut (Is this re-usable, ie if I choose to change/reduce the length of the steerer, can I remove the expanding nut, make the cut, and put it back in at a lower level?)
Yes, it's reusable but can be tricky to get out. You may need to tap down the expander wedge to be able to pull it free from the fork. If you unscrew the top too much the wedge might fall into the fork. No biggie though, just turn upside down and it will fall out. When fitting the expander, set it before insertion so it won't just twirl round in the tube when you're trying to tighten it with an 8mm hex wrench, and make sure it doesn't slightly lift off the top of the tube as you tighten it.

Fit crankset and pedals, front derailleur, and rear derailleur, as well as shifters on the bars, and the brakes.
Try and route cables for brakes and gears
Sort out indexing so it shifts perfectly (hahahaha)
Fit bar tape
Fit FSA seatpost and Fizik saddle.

Anything I have missed or have in the wrong order there?

I think the things that make me the most nervous are cutting the steerer tube, trying to route the cabling, fitting the headset and sorting out the indexing, all key bits of course!

Questions that spring to mind, that I have been googling is how to route the cables for the gears - looks like crossing them seems to be the way to go according to Sheldon Brown - I don't recall seeing any kind of plastic routing block under the bottom bracket on the frame, so how would that work?

Crossing is good because the curve is less sharp and you can set the loop so that the outers don't touch the headtube so no need for frame protectors. The cables just crossover under the downtube and use the same cable guide under the bottom bracket. The cable guide was fitted on my Pro, not sure about the SL: do you have an adhesive one separate perhaps?

I've also seen conflicting reports on whether I should basically grease everything I fit or not - I have carbon paste for the carbon on carbon bits (Stem onto steerer, and handlebar, seatpost into frame), but assume a bit of generic grease around the headset (When it is fitted), and cranks would not go amiss either?
Grease may help repel water a bit so not a bad idea on headset bearings and BB cups. Also grease splines on the crank spindle. Copper slip on bolts is best, but grease will do. I woudn't put grease/assembly paste on the steerer (see this http://thegoldenwrench.blogspot.co.uk/2 ... rding.html).

Other things to watch:

Gear cable routing on left 5700 shifter - remember to take off the plastic cover so you can see where the cable needs to go. Read the Shimano techdocs on this. Note that the FD cable goes through a small hole in BB area.

Are you fitting an inline barrel adjuster on the FD cable? I didn't bother as it's fairly easy to get the right tension by pulling on the cable with a pair of needle nose pliers as you tight the cable clamp. However, you might find adjustment easier if you do.

Fit a dogfang or other chain catcher to prevent dropping the chain and damaging the frame.

Put helicopter tape protectors where the cables touch the frame.

Use a torque wrench on the recommended settings for all the bolts - consult Scott and Shimano docs for recommended torque settings. Don't force any bolts or let your hex wrench slip!

Don't drop your tools on the bike!

Keep your hands free of oil and grease when handling the frame as it's a bugger to clean!




Happy to start a new thread if this is polluting this one!

itboffin

ahhhhh the red it hurts my eyes :?

scott-s30

Just starting the build of my CR1 pro.
I've managed to fit the headset using a home-made press which worked OK on the whole, just needed to 'steer' the bearings with a few gentle taps of a wood mallet.
My problem now is the fork race. It slid easily down the steerer until about 10mm from the crown then needed to be driven down. I did this using plastic pipe and the trusty mallet. Took quite a few whacks but it's seated nicely now. But.... when you put the fork into the frame the race now jams in the bottom bearing and doesn't go right inside. The fork now sits a few mm proud below the bearing. Seems like the race has stretched or has become ovalised?
Will this bed itself in over time or do I need a new race?
cheers for any advice.

daniel_b

Thankyou Bobones for the helpful reply above

Sounds a bit tricky what you have going on with your crownrace ScottS30, am sure someone with indepth knowledge will be along shortly.

Does anyone have any idea if this FSA headset would be a suitable/compatible replacement for the CR1 SL in the future?
Or failing that for my Felt - they are both 1 1/8th I do believe.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-orbit-cf-headset/rp-prod12760

tincaman

scott-s30 wrote:

Just starting the build of my CR1 pro.
I've managed to fit the headset using a home-made press which worked OK on the whole, just needed to 'steer' the bearings with a few gentle taps of a wood mallet.
My problem now is the fork race. It slid easily down the steerer until about 10mm from the crown then needed to be driven down. I did this using plastic pipe and the trusty mallet. Took quite a few whacks but it's seated nicely now. But.... when you put the fork into the frame the race now jams in the bottom bearing and doesn't go right inside. The fork now sits a few mm proud below the bearing. Seems like the race has stretched or has become ovalised?
Will this bed itself in over time or do I need a new race?
cheers for any advice.

Please post a pic, I think you may have fitted the wrong part

bobones

Daniel B wrote:

Does anyone have any idea if this FSA headset would be a suitable/compatible replacement for the CR1 SL in the future?
Or failing that for my Felt - they are both 1 1/8th I do believe.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fsa-orbit-cf-headset/rp-prod12760

I've heard from an LBS mechanic that Scott only warranty their bike frames if the specific, recommended Ritchey or Synchros headset is used. I believe the headset on the Scott is semi-integrated (i.e. internal cups) so this one wouldn't work anyway.

I don't know about your Felt, but on mine (F85 with non-tapered headtube) the bearings just drop into the headtube (integrated - no cups) so I guess any ones of the right dimensions would do. It looks to me that this FSA headset would do the job on my Felt (which is originally fitted with an FSA headset), but to be honest I'm not sure. I'd guess you'd need to confirm the current bearing dimensions from markings on the bearings.

bobones

itboffin wrote:

ahhhhh the red it hurts my eyes :?

Sorry, changed it to blue now.

alans220

Had my forks, bearings, crown race and stem assembled at my LBS, cost £10.00 for everything, took the guy about 15 minutes.

However did not know about having a 5mm spacer above the stem, mine just has the cap directly above, flush, no spacer. I asked him to do that and he seemed ok with it, should I have fitted a 5mm spacer above, none came with the frameset.

al

markhewitt1978

Mine doesn't have a spacer above the stem either.

onemoresolo

As long as you have 5mm of stem above the top of the steerer you will be fine.

bobones

No, you don't need a 5mm spacer above the stem. You can have between 0mm and 5mm of spacers above, and between 5mm and 40mm below the stem.

alans220

Not sure how many mm there is above the top of the steerer (did not see the LBS man cut it), but it all looks and feels ok now it has been fitted, so I assume it will be ok