The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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Comments

  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Anyone know where you can buy those cone headset spacers?
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    Is it worth buying a spare mech hanger for the SL frame as it's been discontinued? Is it the sort of thing that will be readily available in the future? Is this the correct part?

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/replacement- ... prod29668/
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    pete54 wrote:
    Is it worth buying a spare mech hanger for the SL frame as it's been discontinued? Is it the sort of thing that will be readily available in the future? Is this the correct part?

    http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/replacement- ... prod29668/

    Difficult one. It ought to be available. Note that Scott seem to (sensibly) make good use of their hangars and this one is suitable for quite a few different bikes in the range from 2010 to present. I suspect stocks of unused ones will be around for some time to come and aftermarket ones are available too - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D272-CNC-gear ... 1c33aaa84c

    Maybe OK to watch for a bargain to turn up.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • raymondliu
    raymondliu Posts: 56
    Real newbie question but I see a few people asking opinions on getting headset spacers, but the frame comes supplied with some spacers, so are people just trying to lower the headset and stem height more than the default or are you unable to fit the headset with the supplied spacers?
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    They are putting more spacers between headset and stem.
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Putting less between mine but the same sort of thing
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • sleavesley
    sleavesley Posts: 20
    After taking the FD cable stop off the down tube of my Alu Bianchi I decided to plumb for the Pro has the SL had sold out. The idea was to transfer everything over. But then I thought about it and also looked at Merlin's prices and upgraded to the Ultegra 6700 from my current 6600 SL Shifters and derailleurs. In truth the only reason for this was to get rid of the gear shifter cables that are hidden with the 6700 and it was cheaper to buy the whole set than just the shifters.
    Along with this I thought it rude not to upgrade my chainset from 105 to Ultegra, so more money Merlin's way.
    Keeping the 105 black brakes though for now.
    Gone with the 3T finishing kit, Team doric seat post and the Arx Pro with the Ergonova Pro.
    Seat I have is a Fizik Aliante but had a look at the antares today and may give it a go as it comes in a nice black and red.
    Wheels are Fulcrum 5's with the Continental Attack/Force combo tyres.
    Chain - Ribble are doing the KMC X10 SL Ti Gold for £39.16 so went for that, but KMC are doing a lovely black and red chain but that is about £70 (X10SL DLC).
    Have also gone for the red K-edge chain catcher.
    Still undecided on the bottle cages, but total weight projected with Look Keo Max 2 as well is 7.3KG.
    Garmin out front holder and GSC-10 also to go on that weight.
    Could get it down to UCI weight with 3T Ltd Bars and stem, Dura Ace cassette, Anatares seat (saves almost 100g over Aliante) and any choice of wheelsets that weigh 1460 or less.

    Headset and steerer being cut next Wednesday.
    Can't wait to give it a blast.
    Will upload a photo when it's fully built to the CR1 SL photo thread.
    Road Bike: Scott CR1 Pro - Ultegra 6700 and 3T carbon, Fulcrum 5 (will have to wait for the Chris King Hubs and 35mm sections)
    Road bike: Bianchi Via Nirone 7 - Ultegra 6600, Fulcrum 5

    MTB: Kona Five 0 2009 - Stolen 03/12/12
    MTB: Scott Aspect 620 2013
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    FYI peeps the CR1 SL frame collects a lot of water in the BB area front mech cable hole, I found this out just before i wheeled the bike inside from to the living room, we have newish light almost white wool carpet, that might have been the final straw the breaks the metaphorical camels back. That or signing mrs itboffin up for a Triathlon without her knowing :lol:
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    Oh crap! I'm loving this bike so much I'm thinking if getting the pro and kitting it out with race blades as the commuter. It would almost be rude not to.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    OK you guys this is not what I wanted from you at all. Apart from ITB; that's some good downbeat criticism of the BB shell, I look forward to hearing about how the frame can't stand up to your weight.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    itboffin wrote:
    FYI peeps the CR1 SL frame collects a lot of water in the BB area front mech cable hole

    I won't be riding mine in the rain, so it shouldn't be a problem.
  • gozzy
    gozzy Posts: 640
    pete54 wrote:
    I won't be riding mine in the rain, so it shouldn't be a problem.


    Good idea, you wouldn't want it to dissolve.
  • galatzo
    galatzo Posts: 1,295
    pete54 wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    FYI peeps the CR1 SL frame collects a lot of water in the BB area front mech cable hole

    I won't be riding mine in the rain, so it shouldn't be a problem.

    Errrr somebodies not been reading the rules, particularly No's 9 & 5 :wink:
    25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.
  • Gazzaputt
    Gazzaputt Posts: 3,227
    itboffin wrote:
    FYI peeps the CR1 SL frame collects a lot of water in the BB area front mech cable hole, I found this out just before i wheeled the bike inside from to the living room, we have newish light almost white wool carpet, that might have been the final straw the breaks the metaphorical camels back. That or signing mrs itboffin up for a Triathlon without her knowing :lol:

    I found this to and it seems to have knackered the Rotor bottom bracket! Although Rotor push fit bottom brackets don't seem to renowned for their durability.

    Water comes from cleaning it weekly
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    Gazzaputt wrote:
    Water comes from cleaning it weekly

    Should be pretty easy to block up the hole with a piece of blue tack when cleaning the bike, shouldn't it? Is it the hole the cable goes through?
  • patrickf
    patrickf Posts: 536
    pete54 wrote:
    Gazzaputt wrote:
    Water comes from cleaning it weekly

    Should be pretty easy to block up the hole with a piece of blue tack when cleaning the bike, shouldn't it? Is it the hole the cable goes through?
    That's quite worrying. I had thought the hole kit went straight through and didn't go through to the BB shell. Sounds like a duff design to me.

    What are the long term solutions to this? I don't really fancy drilling a drain hole in the BB shell! :lol:
  • itboffin
    itboffin Posts: 20,072
    Galatzo wrote:
    pete54 wrote:
    itboffin wrote:
    FYI peeps the CR1 SL frame collects a lot of water in the BB area front mech cable hole

    I won't be riding mine in the rain, so it shouldn't be a problem.

    Errrr somebodies not been reading the rules, particularly No's 9 & 5 :wink:

    not so this is why i have n+11 bikes, 2 x wet weather road bikes with different groupset and tyre choices, such a bore having to swap wheels and or tyres.
    Rule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
    Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
    Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
    Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    Galatzo wrote:
    Errrr somebodies not been reading the rules, particularly No's 9 & 5

    I said I won't be riding the SL in the rain. I have another bike I can ride when it is wet.
  • d10brp
    d10brp Posts: 70
    I take it that the frame isn't supposed to come with great adjustment bolts? Got a new 105 groupset but can't see any adjustment bolts anywhere.
    Scott CR1 Pro
    Specialized Secteur Elite
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Frame stops are usually something you have to purchase separately.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • boblo
    boblo Posts: 360
    Adjustment bolts for what? Do you mean inline gear adjusters? If so, no. Buy separately.
  • d10brp
    d10brp Posts: 70
    Thanks guys, not the first noob mistake I've made but hopefully the last.
    Scott CR1 Pro
    Specialized Secteur Elite
  • The downtube adjusters won't work, though as the cable stops aren't threaded. You can eithe use the inline ones, or none at all.
  • d10brp
    d10brp Posts: 70
    The downtube adjusters won't work, though as the cable stops aren't threaded. You can eithe use the inline ones, or none at all.

    Cheers, going to get some inlines
    Scott CR1 Pro
    Specialized Secteur Elite
  • Right, think I'm going to pick up one of the Pros while they are still in stock -

    Quick newbie question - they've got both the threaded BB and Press-fit versions in my size (61) and the threaded BB version is 50 notes cheaper - any reason I shouldn't go for that version and save myself a few quid to put to the rest of the build? I'm going to be buying a groupset/wheels/finishing kit from scratch and haven't decided yet (prob 105/Fulcrums) so am not limited by current components.
    Cheers.
  • Good man! The threaded BB version will probably have slightly less stiffness in the old bottom bracket area, but, will be easier to find and fit replacements in years to come and would work better than the other one if you fancied running a triple. *spits*
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Good man! The threaded BB version will probably have slightly less stiffness in the old bottom bracket area, but, will be easier to find and fit replacements in years to come and would work better than the other one if you fancied running a triple. *spits*

    Well I'm running a 105 triple on a CR1-SL with press-fit BB. I did have to modify the inner chainring with a large file to make it clear the BB shell though...
  • bobones
    bobones Posts: 1,215
    Right, think I'm going to pick up one of the Pros while they are still in stock -

    Quick newbie question - they've got both the threaded BB and Press-fit versions in my size (61) and the threaded BB version is 50 notes cheaper - any reason I shouldn't go for that version and save myself a few quid to put to the rest of the build? I'm going to be buying a groupset/wheels/finishing kit from scratch and haven't decided yet (prob 105/Fulcrums) so am not limited by current components.
    Cheers.
    I spoke to quite a few bike shop owners and mechanics about this and they all said go for the threaded BB as press-fit BBs are generally a PITA and the benefits to the rider are questionable. (Seems to me that most of the "advantages" lie in lower manufacturing costs and higher tolerances). For sure, threaded is definitely much easier for DIY fettling. That being said, the press-fit BB shell will be wider so perhaps a little stiffer and the final build a touch lighter and arguably more aesthetically pleasing.

    You should factor in the cost of the BB when comparing the 2 frame sets as the press-fit model comes with a BB supplied and fitted whereas you'll need to add a threaded BB to your build for the other.
  • d10brp
    d10brp Posts: 70
    bobones wrote:
    Right, think I'm going to pick up one of the Pros while they are still in stock -

    Quick newbie question - they've got both the threaded BB and Press-fit versions in my size (61) and the threaded BB version is 50 notes cheaper - any reason I shouldn't go for that version and save myself a few quid to put to the rest of the build? I'm going to be buying a groupset/wheels/finishing kit from scratch and haven't decided yet (prob 105/Fulcrums) so am not limited by current components.
    Cheers.
    I spoke to quite a few bike shop owners and mechanics about this and they all said go for the threaded BB as press-fit BBs are generally a PITA and the benefits to the rider are questionable. (Seems to me that most of the "advantages" lie in lower manufacturing costs and higher tolerances). For sure, threaded is definitely much easier for DIY fettling. That being said, the press-fit BB shell will be wider so perhaps a little stiffer and the final build a touch lighter and arguably more aesthetically pleasing.

    You should factor in the cost of the BB when comparing the 2 frame sets as the press-fit model comes with a BB supplied and fitted whereas you'll need to add a threaded BB to your build for the other.

    But also remember that if you buy a new groupset it may come with a BB, mine did.
    Scott CR1 Pro
    Specialized Secteur Elite
  • What's the specification of the BB that comes with the Pro frame? - Just so I know for my information :)