The Scott CR1 SL Thread

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  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    IndyP wrote:
    Yea you're correct it's just the rear that has a barrel adjuster. The front mech is adjusted by cable tension and by finely tuning the L/H screws. It's pretty straight forward to do though - I taught myself just by reading the Shimano instructions and then doing it.

    How do you adjust the cable tension without a barrel adjuster? Do you have to release the cable clamp?
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    pete54 wrote:
    IndyP wrote:
    Yea you're correct it's just the rear that has a barrel adjuster. The front mech is adjusted by cable tension and by finely tuning the L/H screws. It's pretty straight forward to do though - I taught myself just by reading the Shimano instructions and then doing it.

    How do you adjust the cable tension without a barrel adjuster? Do you have to release the cable clamp?

    Unless your shifters have cable adjusters built-in (not that common any more), then yes. Undo the cable clamp, pull the cable toight (like a toiger), do the clamp up.
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.
  • itsnotarace
    itsnotarace Posts: 518
    Yes, but once it's set, you shouldn't need to touch it
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    itsnotarace wrote:
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    Really? I'm sure I read something here that suggested it shouldn't be a problem on modern groupsets?

    Well there's nothing to stop you doing it, but you are much more likely to drop your chain off the front mech as the rear changes the chain angle whilst the front is shifting.

    Just like hard pedalling during gear shifts - yes you can, but no, you shouldn't

    Worthwhile advice. Thanks!
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    itsnotarace wrote:
    Yes, but once it's set, you shouldn't need to touch it

    Hmmm, not sure about that. On a new bike the cables will stretch. I think there's a reason the mechanic fitted an in-line adjuster on mine.
  • itsnotarace
    itsnotarace Posts: 518
    I don't really believe that cables stretch as such, but I do believe that the inners and outers and ferrules need to settle into the frame and such. So once the cable becomes slack, you loosen off the bolt a little, remove slack from cable and re-tighten. My CAAD9 hasn't been adjusted for 2 years and 2500 miles since it was last set.

    Inline barrel adjusters make adjustment a little easier but tend to suffer from creep which loosens off the cable and makes things generally worse.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    itsnotarace wrote:
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    Really? I'm sure I read something here that suggested it shouldn't be a problem on modern groupsets?

    Well there's nothing to stop you doing it, but you are much more likely to drop your chain off the front mech as the rear changes the chain angle whilst the front is shifting.

    Just like hard pedalling during gear shifts - yes you can, but no, you shouldn't

    Worthwhile advice. Thanks!

    I double shift all the time - never had a chain drop as a result but maybe Shimano is more fussy than Campag?
    Faster than a tent.......
  • jonny_trousers
    jonny_trousers Posts: 3,588
    Rolf F wrote:
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    itsnotarace wrote:
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    Really? I'm sure I read something here that suggested it shouldn't be a problem on modern groupsets?

    Well there's nothing to stop you doing it, but you are much more likely to drop your chain off the front mech as the rear changes the chain angle whilst the front is shifting.

    Just like hard pedalling during gear shifts - yes you can, but no, you shouldn't

    Worthwhile advice. Thanks!

    I double shift all the time - never had a chain drop as a result but maybe Shimano is more fussy than Campag?

    I'm on Campag. Maybe it's just set up so it can shift too far to the left. Simple turn of that top screw thingy, right?
  • Koncordski
    Koncordski Posts: 1,009
    Yep, just adjust the limit screw to restrict how far the arm can throw.
    #1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
    #2 Boeris Italia race steel
    #3 Scott CR1 SL
    #4 Trek 1.1 commuter
    #5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    itsnotarace wrote:
    Jonny_Trousers wrote:
    Really? I'm sure I read something here that suggested it shouldn't be a problem on modern groupsets?

    Well there's nothing to stop you doing it, but you are much more likely to drop your chain off the front mech as the rear changes the chain angle whilst the front is shifting.

    Just like hard pedalling during gear shifts - yes you can, but no, you shouldn't

    Worthwhile advice. Thanks!

    I double shift all the time - never had a chain drop as a result but maybe Shimano is more fussy than Campag?

    I'm on Campag. Maybe it's just set up so it can shift too far to the left. Simple turn of that top screw thingy, right?

    Maybe - TBH, I'd just make sure I followed exactly what the measurements given in the manuals are. Do make sure that the first shift up on the front mech is a very small one and don't run the cables too tight.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • Origamist
    Origamist Posts: 807
    Almost there...

    9190716859_46e7f9ac72_z.jpg
    Folders
  • meanredspider
    meanredspider Posts: 12,337
    Origamist wrote:
    Almost there...

    9190716859_46e7f9ac72_z.jpg


    I'd have thought it still had a fair bit of time to go (relative to the build so far) :wink::D

    Looking good though 8)
    ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    While my Pro frame is lovely. I've decided that the bike as a whole should be lighter. What would be a realistic target using the Pro frame and components no higher than Ultegra?
  • luv2ride
    luv2ride Posts: 2,367
    Galatzo wrote:
    Going for first steady ride now, God I hope there's no noises....

    So Galatzo, what did you make of your new SL? :D By the way, didn't you used to have a Cinelli Saetta, and sold the frame on the classifieds on here? I was very close to pressing the button on one, so was really wondering how it compared with the SL......?

    Oh, and apologies if I've got the wrong person :oops:
    Titus Silk Road Ti rigid 29er - Scott Solace 10 disc - Kinesis Crosslight Pro6 disc - Scott CR1 SL - Pinnacle Arkose X 650b - Pinnacle Arkose singlespeed - Specialized Singlecross...& an Ernie Ball Musicman Stingray 4 string...
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    For anyone considering fitting a 105 triple (5603) to the SL frame I can confirm that it's quite easy to remove the 30t chainring and file down the inner projections so they do not foul the BB shell. The alloy is so soft I just used a couple of files.
  • galatzo
    galatzo Posts: 1,295
    So due to popular demand..... well one request here's my thoughts after one ride.
    I can't draw too many conclusions yet actually what with having been off the bike for 2 weeks due to an off and ac separation (dropped shoulder) as a result which means I can't get out the saddle much and throw it about or slam it into a corner. When I did feel brave and got out the saddle it felt good, plenty stiff and a noticeable lack of weight helped up Rowsley Barr and up to Bonsall village (over 20% in places). A couple of times I nervously dropped a knee and it seemed to track pretty well into the bend but I must make it clear I am nervous at the moment and can't test it out as I would really like to.
    On one particular stretch of road I normally hate due to it being rough as hell it definetly seemed smoother than the N2A.
    I'm also faffing with the position too as I got this frame for a HUGE sportive in Austria (240km and 5500meters in a day) and am trying to get used to an extra spacer on the headtube to help with comfort after 11 hours in the saddle.
    For sure it's better than the Cinelli which I felt was vague going into bends and didn't inspire the confidence my Planet X N2A does/did, however climbing on the Cinelli was good as it too was much lighter than the N2A.

    One thing I can tell is that this is not a sportive bike, not in my book anyway.

    Anyway here it is, plenty of tinkering still to be done starting with a Deda seatpost to match bars and stem when funds permit and a decision re bar height, currently with the 20mm Scott spacer below the stem.

    Very happy with the weight of 6.9kg with pedals, cages, Garmin bits and a 200gram (but comfy) saddle.

    Scott CR1 SL Small
    Chorus Chainset, Ergo's, front mech, chain, 12-29 cassette for the Otztal Radmarathon
    Athena rear mech as half the price of Chorus when I knackered it !
    Planet X brakes
    Elite Paron carbon cages
    Time RXS carbon pedals
    Deda 90mm service corse stem
    Deda Presa bars
    Fizik Kurve Bull saddle
    Ritchey WCS Carbon post
    Mavic Ksyrium SR wheels with Planet X Ti skewers

    20130701_145903.jpg

    20130701_145925.jpg

    20130701_145941.jpg

    20130701_201844.jpg

    Thought about resurrecting my old SLR saddle to save 70 grams, tried it and thought how did I ever use it ! (look badass though)

    20130701_201821.jpg
    25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.
  • Gazzaputt
    Gazzaputt Posts: 3,227
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    While my Pro frame is lovely. I've decided that the bike as a whole should be lighter. What would be a realistic target using the Pro frame and components no higher than Ultegra?

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 0&t=112755

    12.84lb?
  • daniel_b
    daniel_b Posts: 12,039
    Galatzo wrote:
    20130701_145903.jpg

    That's the nicest layback seatpost I've seen I do believe.

    Nice looking bike :D
    Felt F70 05 (Turbo)
    Marin Palisades Trail 91 and 06
    Scott CR1 SL 12
    Cannondale Synapse Adventure 15 & 16 Di2
    Scott Foil 18
  • markhewitt1978
    markhewitt1978 Posts: 7,614
    Gazzaputt wrote:
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    While my Pro frame is lovely. I've decided that the bike as a whole should be lighter. What would be a realistic target using the Pro frame and components no higher than Ultegra?

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 0&t=112755

    12.84lb?

    That would do!! ;)

    I guess apart from wheels it's a matter of small changes.
  • galatzo
    galatzo Posts: 1,295
    It is indeed a beaut, lovely 3k glossy weave, cost a bomb, doesn't match the Deda stuff and gives more layback than I need on this frame but I'll keep it as there's so few posts around that give that much layback (45mm), FSA is nearest at 35mm, and I'm bound to need it again one day (soon !).
    Will be changing for a Deda with 25mm layback when I decide which one. Just put an aaloy Ritchey WCS on with 25mm layback and it felt much better, mind you I was only riding to school with the kids.
    25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    Gazzaputt wrote:
    markhewitt1978 wrote:
    While my Pro frame is lovely. I've decided that the bike as a whole should be lighter. What would be a realistic target using the Pro frame and components no higher than Ultegra?

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum ... 0&t=112755

    12.84lb?

    That would do!! ;)

    I guess apart from wheels it's a matter of small changes.

    I love the how strange and disproportionate the real Weenies are. "I saved 3 grams by changing the chain catcher!" :lol: You couldn't have just trimmed your toenails before setting off?
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    Daniel B wrote:
    Galatzo wrote:
    20130701_145903.jpg

    That's the nicest layback seatpost I've seen I do believe.

    Nice looking bike :D

    Yes, I like the black / white contrast.

    What's the science behind seatpost layback? Is it to ensure that your knee is over the pedal ie if you have long(er) femurs you have more layback?
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    keef66 wrote:
    For anyone considering fitting a 105 triple (5603) to the SL frame I can confirm that it's quite easy to remove the 30t chainring and file down the inner projections so they do not foul the BB shell. The alloy is so soft I just used a couple of files.

    Good to know - I might get round to doing mine some time this month... :roll:

    On a separate note, I'm thinking that I really need some black wheels rather than the battleship grey R1500s. Am very taken with the Campagnolo Zondas - I just love the rear spoke pattern! Other than offending the purists there's no reason not to have Campag wheels with a Shimano drivetrain is there? :wink::lol:
  • galatzo
    galatzo Posts: 1,295
    Had a proper compact frame before which had loads of seatpost showing and to hit the measurements from a bike fit it was necessary. Knee over pedal is only part of it, loads of other stuff was done around seating position to establish best position for comfort combined with power.
    TBH I think I could have gone for the XS frame as I don't think the saddle is going to be quite were the bikefit recommended but didn't want too shorter headtube as per the XS as this bike is going to be initially set slightly different to how I'd normally have it in that it's going to be used to get me round this (hopefully)

    Radmarathoncourse2013.jpg

    http://www.oetztaler-radmarathon.com/

    Last time time I HAD to get off after 11 1/2 hours when I was half way up the last climb, I was just done, utterly done, only 7 km to the top and then 40km downhill but if you'd seen those last 7km snaking up in front of you glued to the side of a mountain.... anyway 3/4 stone lighter this time so fingers crossed (not bothering again if I don't make it that's for sure).
    25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.
  • Origamist
    Origamist Posts: 807
    meanredspider wrote:

    I'd have thought it still had a fair bit of time to go (relative to the build so far) :wink::D

    Looking good though 8)

    Ha! Finished, and barely a month after you! Will take a pic tonight after a shake-down ride.
    Folders
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    Still not allowed to ride mine :(
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • Lefthook
    Lefthook Posts: 124
    On a separate note, I'm thinking that I really need some black wheels rather than the battleship grey R1500s. Am very taken with the Campagnolo Zondas - I just love the rear spoke pattern! Other than offending the purists there's no reason not to have Campag wheels with a Shimano drivetrain is there? :wink::lol:

    No they do 2 versions, just make sure you order the shimano freehub version. It will fit 11 speed and comes with spacer to fit 10 speed. I am running mine with 105.
  • pete54
    pete54 Posts: 488
    Pollys Bott wrote:
    Other than offending the purists there's no reason not to have Campag wheels with a Shimano drivetrain is there?

    I feel sick just thinking about it... :)

    Just change the groupset to match the wheels.
  • UndercoverElephant
    UndercoverElephant Posts: 5,796
    My Equilibrium is running Campag-compatible hubs, with a Campagnolo 9-speed cassette and Tiagra - shifting is nigh-on perfect. I don't think it works as well with 10-speed, though. At some point I may upgrade the rest of it to match the rear hub :)
    Sun - Rain - Snow
  • pollys_bott
    pollys_bott Posts: 1,012
    pete54 wrote:
    Pollys Bott wrote:
    Other than offending the purists there's no reason not to have Campag wheels with a Shimano drivetrain is there?

    I feel sick just thinking about it... :)

    Just change the groupset to match the wheels.

    :lol:

    Now where's that spare £500/600 I haven't got?

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