The Scott CR1 SL Thread
Comments
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I quite like the red accents. Wonder if red cables to match the saddle would have gone well?
Talking of cables, how are people cabling up on the downtube? Straight pull or crossed?0 -
I crossed mine, never tried it before0
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I have them crossed on my current bike. I like the neat cable run around the head tube but I have noticed the cables dig into the guide under the bottom bracket a little.0
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Finally got around to building mine and promptly ran out of spacers - were there more than 3 in the pack, as I need to fit around 6 till I cut the spacer.
Did you guys cut the steerer or fit some more?0 -
6 ? :shock:
What size frame do you have ?25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.0 -
samsbike wrote:Finally got around to building mine and promptly ran out of spacers - were there more than 3 in the pack, as I need to fit around 6 till I cut the spacer.
Did you guys cut the steerer or fit some more?
6 spacers seems excessive!0 -
I had 3 in the pack, but fitting in the forks, stems and spacers I still have a lot of steerer tube left. I was just wondering from the guy who had built the bikes whether they cut them or put in some extra spacers.
It was 6 in total, so the 3 in the pack and then 3 more.0 -
tincaman wrote:Another one for the road
Its a 52cm, small, I am 5-7
Full 105 except crank, which is Ultegra
Ritchey pro seat post
Conti Gp4000 with latex inners
RS80 wheelset
Weight 17.5lb
Also you might want to adjust your speed sensor arm so it's down instead of pointing up. It's much less to get in the way of things there and less likely to dig into spokes should the worst happen.0 -
samsbike wrote:I had 3 in the pack, but fitting in the forks, stems and spacers I still have a lot of steerer tube left. I was just wondering from the guy who had built the bikes whether they cut them or put in some extra spacers.
It was 6 in total, so the 3 in the pack and then 3 more.
The steerer is deliberately long. You are expected to cut it to size.0 -
patrickf wrote:tincaman wrote:Another one for the road
Its a 52cm, small, I am 5-7
Full 105 except crank, which is Ultegra
Ritchey pro seat post
Conti Gp4000 with latex inners
RS80 wheelset
Weight 17.5lb
Also you might want to adjust your speed sensor arm so it's down instead of pointing up. It's much less to get in the way of things there and less likely to dig into spokes should the worst happen.
The same for the front fork. I was wondering why everyone put theirs facing front when the back would be more aero. Then I realised what would happen if it went out of alignment and caught the spokes!0 -
Good spot! Not visible from the pic, but on that note also check the position of the rear QR0
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samsbike wrote:Finally got around to building mine and promptly ran out of spacers - were there more than 3 in the pack, as I need to fit around 6 till I cut the spacer.
Did you guys cut the steerer or fit some more?
6 spacers does sound a lot. I thought maximum height is 50cm which includes the headset?0 -
You have to cut the steerer first to the height that includes all the spacers (3) and then fine tune your final ride height, then cut again once you're happy. With 6 spacers the steerer tube would be massively unsupported above the headset and you shouldn't ride it like that.
#1 Brompton S2L Raw Lacquer, Leather Mudflaps
#2 Boeris Italia race steel
#3 Scott CR1 SL
#4 Trek 1.1 commuter
#5 Peugeot Grand Tourer (Tandem)0 -
Mine is coming along. They had run out of 52cm by the time I saw them, so went with the XS and am not displeased with 120mm stem. I'm 172cm with 76cm inseam. Saddle height and stem set and steerer cut. Bars are just there for mock up
Awaiting delivery of cranks today, can't wait to start building. Can't decide on white or silver/grey cables. Any thoughts?0 -
I'm a similar height to you and got a small and wondering if I should have gone XS, should find out this afternoon !
On yours I think a small would have shown too little seatpost, it'll be touch and go on mine if seatpost is going to look too short.... God hurry up Mercian !25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.0 -
Pollys Bott wrote:McBiker wrote:glad to help...Hadn't thought of that as an issue but this (very old fashioned) way of achieving a triple, bolting the inner ring directly to the middle, doestn' appeal which is why I went with 105 instead of ultegra...looks like I saved myself alot of grief too!
Shimano introduced this "triplizer" ring on DuraAce (7800 IIRC)...but I think Stronglite were already there in the 1970s.
Perhaps it would be possible to file down some of the tabs? You know what minimum diameter you need to achieve. Otherwise, Ribble was the cheapest source of 5703 I found 2 weeks ago.
EDIT: I think the BCD is different on the crank mount (5703) to the ring-mounted (6703) so it may not be possible to achieve the clearance required by swapping rings.
Thanks: filing / cutting off the tabs had crossed my mind, but Ribble do a generic 30T tab-less ring with a 74 BCD which will fit so I'll put one of those on.
I don't know why the 30T rings have those inward-pointing tabs on when the bigger rings don't... :?
On a different note, I must admit to have not yet checked whether the frame came with a rear mech hanger - does it, and if not which ones have people bought?
Well I finally got round to having a fettle on Saturday morning. Pressed in the headset cups with the bargain Ebay threaded rod / washer / nut arrangement. Then tried my 105 5603 triple chainset. The weird floral shape of the 30t ring is clearly not going to fit round the BB.
So do I attack it with the angle grinder? Find a projection-free 30t chainring? Or use it as an excuse to invoke plan B and build a complete new bike??
I'm liking the idea of plan B more.0 -
I took mine on a 100 mile sportive yesterday and was really pleased with it. I wasn't massively comfortable towards the end, but that comes down to my limited experience of such distances and my set up unrelated to the frame. It handled beautifully, I felt extremely secure on fast descents, it did everything it could to help my horrible climbing, it allowed me to cruise at a good pace, and it glided across the sh*tty Surrey road surfaces as well as anything could have. I honestly feel I've bought a frame that'll do all I want and need it to for several years to come.
These events remind me of how silly it is that I can get obsessed over every last stylistic detail of a bike. For some reason, when you're among countless other riders on various machines, nothing particularly stands out as looking any better than anything else. I even saw a McClaren Venge that looked decidedly meh. I suppose the stupid rider number things they make you put on your bars kills any hope of your bike looking sexy.0 -
I did my first sportive on Saturday - wiggle long one (was also my first century), 125 miles of hills and the CR1 was phenomenal. Literally couldn't fault it in anyway whatsoever and am so chuffed with the bikeFirst love - Genesis Equilibrium 20
Dirty - Forme Calver CX Sport
Quickie - Scott CR1 SL HMX
Notable ex's - Kinesis Crosslight, Specialized Tricross0 -
Also unable to fault the bike.....it just glides over uneven road surfacesCan't decide on white or silver/grey cables. Any thoughts?
If money wasn't a question I would have gone with silver/grey cables as I think they'd look good.0 -
Had white cables on mine (brought over from previous frame), I've now switched to black which looks much better.0
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indyP wrote:Also unable to fault the bike.....it just glides over uneven road surfacesCan't decide on white or silver/grey cables. Any thoughts?
If money wasn't a question I would have gone with silver/grey cables as I think they'd look good.
Jagwire Road Pro cables come in a lovely "Titanium" flavour, that would look great with that frame.
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patrickf wrote:tincaman wrote:Another one for the road
Its a 52cm, small, I am 5-7
Full 105 except crank, which is Ultegra
Ritchey pro seat post
Conti Gp4000 with latex inners
RS80 wheelset
Weight 17.5lb
Also you might want to adjust your speed sensor arm so it's down instead of pointing up. It's much less to get in the way of things there and less likely to dig into spokes should the worst happen.
Steerer has been cut but more could probably come off. The Garmin speed sensor won't fit with the arm in the downward position0 -
UndercoverElephant wrote:indyP wrote:Also unable to fault the bike.....it just glides over uneven road surfacesCan't decide on white or silver/grey cables. Any thoughts?
If money wasn't a question I would have gone with silver/grey cables as I think they'd look good.
Jagwire Road Pro cables come in a lovely "Titanium" flavour, that would look great with that frame.
I went with the hightec Grey and they look very nice :-)0 -
Cheers guys, popped to the LBS earlier and they had the Jagwire high tech grey cables in stock so went with that0
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keef66 wrote:Pollys Bott wrote:McBiker wrote:glad to help...Hadn't thought of that as an issue but this (very old fashioned) way of achieving a triple, bolting the inner ring directly to the middle, doestn' appeal which is why I went with 105 instead of ultegra...looks like I saved myself alot of grief too!
Shimano introduced this "triplizer" ring on DuraAce (7800 IIRC)...but I think Stronglite were already there in the 1970s.
Perhaps it would be possible to file down some of the tabs? You know what minimum diameter you need to achieve. Otherwise, Ribble was the cheapest source of 5703 I found 2 weeks ago.
EDIT: I think the BCD is different on the crank mount (5703) to the ring-mounted (6703) so it may not be possible to achieve the clearance required by swapping rings.
Thanks: filing / cutting off the tabs had crossed my mind, but Ribble do a generic 30T tab-less ring with a 74 BCD which will fit so I'll put one of those on.
I don't know why the 30T rings have those inward-pointing tabs on when the bigger rings don't... :?
On a different note, I must admit to have not yet checked whether the frame came with a rear mech hanger - does it, and if not which ones have people bought?
Well I finally got round to having a fettle on Saturday morning. Pressed in the headset cups with the bargain Ebay threaded rod / washer / nut arrangement. Then tried my 105 5603 triple chainset. The weird floral shape of the 30t ring is clearly not going to fit round the BB.
So do I attack it with the angle grinder? Find a projection-free 30t chainring? Or use it as an excuse to invoke plan B and build a complete new bike??
I'm liking the idea of plan B more.
Suggest the angle grinder may be overkill
Hacksaw and finish with a file...shimano chainrings are after all made mainly of cheese.
maybe someone who understands engineering might suggest whether there's any structural relevance to these projections...? I assumed it was associated with the mounting bolts, but if present on the older 5603 with direct mount to the crank this can't be the case.0 -
Interesting that someone taller than me would have a XS frame when I'm on 52. tbh I guess I could have gone smaller as I don't have much seat post showing and an 80mm stem.0
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I know what you mean about obsessing about the details of a build. My stem had a silver grey faceplate on it but I found an old one which was black so swapped it so it looks better now.
Changes I'd like to make are white cables to black. And white&red saddle to black.
But; nobody will notice or even care how my bike looks. But I care and that's what's important!0 -
I've got mine............25th August 2013 12hrs 37mins 52.3 seconds 238km 5500mtrs FYRM Never again.0
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I set 9 strava achievements today in just 51 miles including a new KOM, that's nothing to be sniffed at because it was really windy and the route lumpy.
It IS about the bikeRule #5 // Harden The Feck Up.
Rule #9 // If you are out riding in bad weather, it means you are a badass. Period.
Rule #12 // The correct number of bikes to own is n+1.
Rule #42 // A bike race shall never be preceded with a swim and/or followed by a run.0 -