The Scott CR1 SL Thread

luv2ride

Galatzo wrote:

Been wondering which seat post to use and found an old 27.2 Easton EC70 with a metal shim on it. Looked on Wiggle for a lighter shim and on reading the reviews one stated

"Very light and well made. However bought to use with a 27.2mm seatpost in a new scott CR1 frame which needs a 31.6mm seatpost. Unfortunately the frame states that only 31.6mm seatposts must be used, and shims are not recommended. Returned as a result."

Is anyone using a post with a shim and is it ok ?
Do you think most manufacturers recommend against using posts with shims on their frames ?
Surely it's as easy to over tighten a badly made 31.6 seatpost as it is a 27.2 with a shim ?
So would you use one or are you using one ?
FWIW I'd only have approx. 15cm of post showing from seatpost clamp to saddle rails.

That was me. Probably being over anxious after reading the frame tag, but Westbrook also separately confirmed to me that you "should never use a shim in a top end carbon frame".

UndercoverElephant

Gozzy wrote:

Also, anyone with the pro know if those deda dog fangs fit?

Seat tube, below the front mech. The end of the fang should be about a mm away from the chain in the inner ring. May be tough to get it to fit if you're using a compact, though.

mrbrightside

Not loving the look of the frame in XL as posted earlier and I'm an inch shorter then OP on page 33 so the saddle drop ratio is going to be pony.

Equally, the bank grounded my aspirations of DA9000 and confirmed only Ultrega budget coupled with the forthcoming holiday season.

Sad to say the frames back in the box, new wheels have been fitted to the daily and I'm thinking of treating to her to some new boots and getting on with my cycling. Classifieds is being contemplated!

itboffin

FWIW these frames clean up really easy I was expecting the kinda rough matt finish to be a bitch to clean, but after tonights soaking wet mucky commute home all i needed to do was lightly hose it down, shake off the excess water and let it dry.

Very impressive

patrickf

itboffin wrote:

FWIW these frames clean up really easy I was expecting the kinda rough matt finish to be a ***** to clean, but after tonights soaking wet mucky commute home all i needed to do was lightly hose it down, shake off the excess water and let it dry.

Very impressive

That's great to hear. I was quite worried about the matte finish too. Though when I fitted the headset cups the other day (it's going to be a SLOW build) I thought it didn't feel as matte as it looks, if that makes sense. Looks like there's still some lacquer over the top of the paint?

Any experiences with how the paint holds up to chips/scratches?

jonny_trousers

Asprilla wrote:

I guess this is why they are flooding the CR1s onto the market: http://www.bikeradar.com/road/news/arti ... kes-37751/

Well I'm glad there's an understandable reason for it, at least. I was half expecting to read that the 2012 models had a habit of exploding over 40mph.

It's quite possible I could get just as excited about a Boardman or a Canyon, given that this is my first carbon framed bike, but I'm loving this CR1 more and more each time I ride it. I took it for laps of Regent's Park this afternoon and it's an absolute pleasure to ride. I'd told myself that I was there just to get some miles in and not to push myself too hard, as I have my first 100 miler of the year on Sunday and I'm woefully undertrained, but it just wants to fly. I couldn't stop myself from trying to pace to the riders giving it there all, and even tested it out on the odd cheeky attack - which it responds to ridiculously well. Compared to the Equilibrium it feels like I've been given an extra 3mph for free, and when I'm pushing it as hard as I can there's a kind of effortless feel to it - even if my heart is ready to burst. For me, it's insanely comfortable too. I definitely was right to size down on what I'm used to.

The only thing bad about this bike is that it shows me how heavy and how uncomfortable my Equilibrium is in comparison. Hmm, time to look for a new frame for the commuter...

gozzy

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

Also, anyone with the pro know if those deda dog fangs fit?

Seat tube, below the front mech. The end of the fang should be about a mm away from the chain in the inner ring. May be tough to get it to fit if you're using a compact, though.

I'll be fitting an Ultegra triple. I think I'll tentatively fit the chainset then look at whether a dog fang or k-edge will do the job better.

Gazzaputt

Gozzy wrote:

CR1 Pro turned up this afternoon and I've a few build questions, mainly grease/carbon assembly paste related.

I think I read in this thread that the headset cups/bearings can go on dry, no grease/paste required. Correct? It's a slightly different headset than the SLs come with in that the cups/bearings are one unit. I may yet get lbs to do the headset and cut the steerer.

Assembly paste is needed for the seat tube, then grease everywhere else you'd usually use it right? Or are there any other places I need to use assembly paste?
Ta!

Yes your correct headset goes in dry.

No other than the usual places for paste on the frame

markhewitt1978

With the news of them being withdrawn I'm tempted to buy another frame from Westbrooks, but £500 is a lot to pay to have a frame sit in the shed until I'm done with this one!

pete54

I'm getting mine built up on Monday and am trying to decide how many spacers to ask them to put under the stem. This is my current setup:



I guess that's 40 mm of spacers? Is that cone-shaped bit a spacer or part of the headset? Can you get 40 mm of spacers under the stem on the CR1 SL frame? The head tube is about 15 mm taller on the new frame so I guess I may not need such a big stack.

keyser__soze

40mm is pushing the recommended limits for the carbon steerer tube. Better to drop a few spacers and have an upturned stem - a 120mm 6 degree stem flipped gives about 25mm of height difference IIRC.

pete54

Keyser__Soze wrote:

40mm is pushing the recommended limits for the carbon steerer tube. Better to drop a few spacers and have an upturned stem - a 120mm 6 degree stem flipped gives about 25mm of height difference IIRC.

Not had any problems with the current road bike or my Fratello which I use for loaded touring, so I think I'll risk it. I don't want to flip the stem as it looks so ugly.

pollys_bott

Luv2ride wrote:

Galatzo wrote:

Been wondering which seat post to use and found an old 27.2 Easton EC70 with a metal shim on it. Looked on Wiggle for a lighter shim and on reading the reviews one stated

"Very light and well made. However bought to use with a 27.2mm seatpost in a new scott CR1 frame which needs a 31.6mm seatpost. Unfortunately the frame states that only 31.6mm seatposts must be used, and shims are not recommended. Returned as a result."

Is anyone using a post with a shim and is it ok ?
Do you think most manufacturers recommend against using posts with shims on their frames ?
Surely it's as easy to over tighten a badly made 31.6 seatpost as it is a 27.2 with a shim ?
So would you use one or are you using one ?
FWIW I'd only have approx. 15cm of post showing from seatpost clamp to saddle rails.

That was me. Probably being over anxious after reading the frame tag, but Westbrook also separately confirmed to me that you "should never use a shim in a top end carbon frame".

Interesting, and annoying seeing as I have just bought a nice 27.2mm FSA post cheap... what's the rationale behind 'the no shim in a top end carbon frame', any idea?

pollys_bott

Gozzy wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

Also, anyone with the pro know if those deda dog fangs fit?

Seat tube, below the front mech. The end of the fang should be about a mm away from the chain in the inner ring. May be tough to get it to fit if you're using a compact, though.

I'll be fitting an Ultegra triple. I think I'll tentatively fit the chainset then look at whether a dog fang or k-edge will do the job better.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gozzy, but take a look at my post towards the bottom of page 32...

markhewitt1978

Pollys Bott wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

Also, anyone with the pro know if those deda dog fangs fit?

Seat tube, below the front mech. The end of the fang should be about a mm away from the chain in the inner ring. May be tough to get it to fit if you're using a compact, though.

I'll be fitting an Ultegra triple. I think I'll tentatively fit the chainset then look at whether a dog fang or k-edge will do the job better.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gozzy, but take a look at my post towards the bottom of page 32...

Ultegra 6800 will give 34/32 which is almost triple territory.

pollys_bott

In the context of gear ratios yes, but the purchase of a compact chainset will still be required if, like me, Gozzy already possesses a triple...

jonny_trousers

How long before someone says they're turning theirs into a fixie

gozzy

Pollys Bott wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

I'll be fitting an Ultegra triple. I think I'll tentatively fit the chainset then look at whether a dog fang or k-edge will do the job better.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gozzy, but take a look at my post towards the bottom of page 32...

I did see that post about triples on the bb86 frames, bad news. However, all they had left in my size was the threaded bb version, which is fine for triples. Given that I'd only just bought the ultegra on here last week with the intention of putting it on a different frame, it's worked out pretty well.

pollys_bott

???

So there was a CR1 SL with a threaded BB? Or are you talking about a Pro frame?

keyser__soze

Jonny_Trousers wrote:

How long before someone says they're turning theirs into a fixie

Ooh that's an idea, I needed an excuse for a new frame and have a single-speed shaped gap in my line-up. Would make a good winter commuter.

andyrr

I'd think the reason for the 'no shim' is that it results in the seatpost itself not being held on it's full length in the seattube, just the top section where the shim extends is in contact with the seattube, the bit of post below the shim is not in contact with the seattube. Seems very unlikely, if the shim is of a decent length, that any ill could come of using a narrower diameter post + shim but if there wa a warranty claim relating to that area of the frame AND Scott/the retailer knew a shim was used (or maybe discovered this) then they'd have grounds for refusing the claim.

gozzy

Pollys Bott wrote:

???

So there was a CR1 SL with a threaded BB? Or are you talking about a Pro frame?

Ah, yes, Pro frame. I missed out on the SL offer.

markhewitt1978

andyrr wrote:

I'd think the reason for the 'no shim' is that it results in the seatpost itself not being held on it's full length in the seattube, just the top section where the shim extends is in contact with the seattube, the bit of post below the shim is not in contact with the seattube. Seems very unlikely, if the shim is of a decent length, that any ill could come of using a narrower diameter post + shim but if there wa a warranty claim relating to that area of the frame AND Scott/the retailer knew a shim was used (or maybe discovered this) then they'd have grounds for refusing the claim.

An alu seat post of the correct size is what? £20? Not worth your safety for that sort of sum.

pollys_bott

Quite: but seatposts breaking as a result of being held in the seat-tube with a shim isn't a common problem AFAIK. The commute to work is probably more of a risk to my safety...

McBiker

Pollys Bott wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

Also, anyone with the pro know if those deda dog fangs fit?

Seat tube, below the front mech. The end of the fang should be about a mm away from the chain in the inner ring. May be tough to get it to fit if you're using a compact, though.

I'll be fitting an Ultegra triple. I think I'll tentatively fit the chainset then look at whether a dog fang or k-edge will do the job better.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gozzy, but take a look at my post towards the bottom of page 32...

I have a 105 (5700) triple (50/39/30) fitted to my SL no problem. I didn't measure, but the spindle didn't seem any different to my older Ultegra 6600 triple (on another bike). Are the BB cups pressed in to the frame correctly? Mine arrived already fitted.

Assuming you suceed in fitting the triple, the Dogfang has to be mounted very low on the seattube to meet the 30t inner ring, at the point where the seatube diameter starts to increase. I needed a longer bolt to get it to fit. On other bikes I've gently shaped the bottom of the dogfang ring to make it a little concave to help with this; it wasn't necessary on the SL.

Koncordski

Ok, lazy lazy, got the build done but then decided to change the cables so i haven't done the bar tape yet. Also excuse the saddle angle in this photo, was just mocking it up after having an old ally post in whilst on the workstand. Anyway I said i'd show the Fulcrum 3's de-stickered and the 3T Black series components. So erm, here you go.

daniel_b

Koncordski wrote:

Ok, lazy lazy, got the build done but then decided to change the cables so i haven't done the bar tape yet. Also excuse the saddle angle in this photo, was just mocking it up after having an old ally post in whilst on the workstand. Anyway I said i'd show the Fulcrum 3's de-stickered and the 3T Black series components. So erm, here you go.

Looking suite!

Where did you source your 3T kit from, and can I ask how you went about de-stickering your wheels......?
Or did you simply peel them off......?
I always thought when you did that they invariably ripped, and left loads of adhesive behind..... :?

White hubs look fab too.

pollys_bott

McBiker wrote:

Pollys Bott wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

UndercoverElephant wrote:

Gozzy wrote:

Also, anyone with the pro know if those deda dog fangs fit?

Seat tube, below the front mech. The end of the fang should be about a mm away from the chain in the inner ring. May be tough to get it to fit if you're using a compact, though.

I'll be fitting an Ultegra triple. I think I'll tentatively fit the chainset then look at whether a dog fang or k-edge will do the job better.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news Gozzy, but take a look at my post towards the bottom of page 32...

I have a 105 (5700) triple (50/39/30) fitted to my SL no problem. I didn't measure, but the spindle didn't seem any different to my older Ultegra 6600 triple (on another bike). Are the BB cups pressed in to the frame correctly? Mine arrived already fitted.

Assuming you suceed in fitting the triple, the Dogfang has to be mounted very low on the seattube to meet the 30t inner ring, at the point where the seatube diameter starts to increase. I needed a longer bolt to get it to fit. On other bikes I've gently shaped the bottom of the dogfang ring to make it a little concave to help with this; it wasn't necessary on the SL.

Really?! Interesting... the spindle length's not the issue, it's the circumference inside the 30T ring. Kind of hard to describe, but on my Ultegra triple the five bolts that attach the granny ring are each on a bit of metal which sticks inwards, and the virtual circle that those five 'bits' make is too small to fit over the BB. I roughly measured the diameter of said virtual circle at approx 45mm, I don't suppose you'd be able to measure the distance on the 105 inner ring and let me know what it is?

Cheers, Jez

markhewitt1978

How easy is it to de-sticker the Fulcrum 3's? I want a new set of wheels but don't want some people to know...

daniel_b

markhewitt1978 wrote:

How easy is it to de-sticker the Fulcrum 3's? I want a new set of wheels but don't want some people to know...

LOL, that is another reason for me to ask as well now that you mention it!